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I had some issues similar to yours cleared by resetting the NVRAM. Link above.
I did the stomp, got the oil pressure needle swing so I know it worked right, but it's still letting itself stall after a few minutes. Should I also try clearing the KAM? Double check the MAF sensor? There's a lot of ideas on the site but it can be difficult to sort the good ones from the old ones.
Maybe the garage messed up the injector plug order?
Personally, I would just remove the upper intake manifold to gain access to the solenoids. Its a much easier job when the manifold is on the bench and less of a chance of making any errors. Pulling the intake manifold takes 15 minutes so for me its a no brainer.
some with big hands have trouble to access the bottom bolts lol but yeah it’s nothing complicated
Btw when replacing the solenoids has anyone used the Amazon ? Working to replace all 3 this weekend and wanted to know if anyone has had any issues
You know, it's learning. I guess I just needed to give it more time. Rather than stalling at EVERY idle, it's catching itself at about 1000RPM, then letting itself slow a bit after that. An occasional stall is still occurring, but I now think they'll go away entirely on their own.
Originally Posted by pfknrx8
Btw when replacing the solenoids has anyone used the Amazon ? Working to replace all 3 this weekend and wanted to know if anyone has had any issues
Amazon solenoids? I have three, one installed, and... the air pump is still broken. So I have a broken air pump. The solenoids fit and they go clickity-click with power, so I guess they work?
I used this to replace the center solenoid which fixed the P0661 code.
that’s what exactly I ordered since I have to take off the upper manifold decided to replace all of them got all of them for $37 on Amazon hoping this resolves the issue same code
The injector harness IS incorrectly plugged; the upper and lower primaries are switched. An easy mistake to have made because the tape came off most of them and they are black with filth. I just need to figure how they disconnect then everything should work right! Right?
Injector plugs are finally correct! The plastic restraint clip on one of the harness plugs is broken off; is there any risk of it disconnecting from the fuel injector on its own?
Very nice. I had the same thought for where you put the 3.5mm jack through. Those USB jacks are in the rear... umm... armrest compartment? I was thinking of replacing the cigarette lighter with a USB jack for easy access but there's no need for easy access to it, is there? Thanks!
I installed the cable and currently have the GROM itself sitting in the glove compartment, but I may more the actual unit to the other side to hide under the steering column. Better for connecting the Bluetooth and microphone.
All the major GROMming is done; everything is maneuvered into where I think I like it.
Needs a better cover, huh? Microphone here. Should be fine! All the wires for the bluetooth tied up here. Wiggling the wires through to the other side took a while.
Now I just need a better cover for the USB, AUX, and charging port.
I never got around to installing it. The new job takes up a lot more of my time, and I no longer have access to the machine shop. So car things take longer and there's less time to do them in.
I've been looking at the Ryan sohn and their while kit to replace your existing washer bottle
It seems like a good kit. The adapter itself is well made and is a bit skinnier than the Sohn adapter. I like the look of the reservoir and in retrospect somewhat regret not getting it.
And now I'm concerned my fuel pump is going. At the end of my long drive home from work, I don't have much power going up hills - can't really get over 60km and if I push it too hard it rattles and bucks.
Fuel pump will limit your load but not your speed. Can you get to or over the same rpm at a lower speed? Or is it really speed that limits it?
Rattles and power loss sounds more like the cat.
Good point. I think it is the RPM that limits me; I'm usually in third when it happens, but still had the same issue the one time I geared down to second. I think I was going slower than I was in third, (same RPM) but I'll have to take note next time.
It seems to me that the power loss is only occurring when everything is really hot; when even the gearshift is starting to feel hot. (this takes about an hour of driving for me) If it were the cat, wouldn't the power loss be noticeable at all points of driving, even while things are still quite cool? The car feels quite peppy for the first part of the drive, but gets more... tired near the end of it.
Started having an p0443 error and some intermittent awful misfiring on starting up, but it would clear up after a moment or two. I'm hoping the purge solenoid is at fault, so I've just now replaced the old one.
Wasn't too hard to get out; I did accidentally break the far nipple off but that actually made things easier. Reset the error codes and we'll see how it does tomorrow. Wish me luck!
08-15-2022, 03:35 PM
