HELP! 13B-MSP rebuild consuming LOTS of oil during break-in
#26
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I built a motor for a motocross bike once years ago. Used synthetic oil and it would always smoke. Changed out the oil to a mineral oil and ran it hard for a few hours and it stopped smoking and went back to the synthetic and the motor lasted for a whole season. Talked to a petroleum engineer about it and he said that the synthetics can be such low friction that they never break in. It's worth a try to go to a 5-20 mineral oil and give it a go. If that doesn't work after about 500 miles you have a bigger issue
#27
///// Upscale Zoom-Zoom
I've recently bought a single piston generator from Generac and a two-staged snowthrower from Ariens. Both devices stated in the manuals and on customer service calls to ensure that the first fill and top-offs during the break-in period are using dino (mineral) oil of 5W30 weight - regardless of operating temperature (even from a -5F start - they recommend 5W30 non-synthetic). There must be something to engine break-in and using mineral oil as a preference.
#28
Kevin, thanks. I'll try unscrewing the banjo bolts as you propose and listen to them. Agree completely that picking low hanging fruit first is the way to go. I didn't check the consumption this time running it, can re-measure the consumption this weekend.
5w30 mineral oil it is then ; )
Have a good weekend everyone!
5w30 mineral oil it is then ; )
Have a good weekend everyone!
#29
Quick update, I unscrewed the oil-injections lines and could not hear any hissing. Installed the SOHN adapter and changed to mineral oil 10w30 (couldn't find 5w30 in my local stores). Ran it at for half an hour in the drive way at 3k rpm. It had consumed 0.1 liters (1/40 gallon) from the 2-stroke tank and 1.5 liters (~0.4 gallons) from the engine oil. Topped it up and went out and drove it for 1.5 hours and it had consumed just over a liter of engine oil.
So it is clear that it is consuming engine oil, and seems like the consumption has started to go down after the switch to mineral oil, which is a step in the right direction. But it still runs really poorly below 3k rpm, and I don't think it is only due to oil consumption, but also that it is running rich. Saw someone mention in another thread that you might need to let it run at idle for 15 min after the 20-pump reset... I'm going to try that I am going to borrow a friends compression tester next couple of weeks and see if that shows anything. I've also seen that when I crank it for some a fog of vaporized fuel emerges from the engine, so I'll re-check all the fuel lines and and the wiring. Not feeling to optimistic right now...
So it is clear that it is consuming engine oil, and seems like the consumption has started to go down after the switch to mineral oil, which is a step in the right direction. But it still runs really poorly below 3k rpm, and I don't think it is only due to oil consumption, but also that it is running rich. Saw someone mention in another thread that you might need to let it run at idle for 15 min after the 20-pump reset... I'm going to try that I am going to borrow a friends compression tester next couple of weeks and see if that shows anything. I've also seen that when I crank it for some a fog of vaporized fuel emerges from the engine, so I'll re-check all the fuel lines and and the wiring. Not feeling to optimistic right now...
#30
77 cylinders, 4 rotors...
Myon,
Its time to pull the engine in my opinion. I think you will be glad you did when you find the problem. At this point, running it will likely not make it any better, and could ruin good parts that could be re-used, If this was mine, I would cut my losses and fully investigate-meaning re-rebuild it.
All the best.
Its time to pull the engine in my opinion. I think you will be glad you did when you find the problem. At this point, running it will likely not make it any better, and could ruin good parts that could be re-used, If this was mine, I would cut my losses and fully investigate-meaning re-rebuild it.
All the best.
#32
Registered
Just get a mazda reman, don't waste your money or time. A reman engine is nearly the same if not less money than a rebuild with next to no risk. Buying a jdm engine is pretty much just gambling with no chance of winning at all, there is a reason whatever engine you are buying is no longer in a car.
#34
Smoking turbo yay
I still don't get the whole "JDM engine" thing. Did you watch too much F&F?
Mazda remans are made and assembled in Japan, so were all the engine that came with RX-8s when they rolled off the assembly lines. All RX-8s were manufactured in Japan so there is no difference between an engine out of a USDM RX-8 and a JDM RX-8 as long as we are talking about the same powertrain configuration.
If anything, I'd be wary of the used JDM engine since there is absolutely no way to inspect them and you pay extra in shipping for practically no reason.
Mazda remans are made and assembled in Japan, so were all the engine that came with RX-8s when they rolled off the assembly lines. All RX-8s were manufactured in Japan so there is no difference between an engine out of a USDM RX-8 and a JDM RX-8 as long as we are talking about the same powertrain configuration.
If anything, I'd be wary of the used JDM engine since there is absolutely no way to inspect them and you pay extra in shipping for practically no reason.
#35
No respecter of malarkey
iTrader: (25)
any chance you installed the oil seals upside down?
one size is flat and that’s the side that goes against the spring inside the rotor groove and the other side has the sealing lip.
putting them in backwards or without the inner o-ring would cause leakage between the e shaft and rotors.
one size is flat and that’s the side that goes against the spring inside the rotor groove and the other side has the sealing lip.
putting them in backwards or without the inner o-ring would cause leakage between the e shaft and rotors.
Last edited by TeamRX8; 04-05-2021 at 11:40 AM.
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Frank DuBois (04-05-2021)
#36
i had the same problem with a newly built engine and the issue was a broken oil seal O-ring. Not sure how it got broken (maybe pinched during install), as it ran fine for some time (it was a race car engine), but it ended consuming alot of sump oil, having low oil pressure and fouling the plugs.
Last edited by MichaelD; 02-01-2024 at 11:26 AM.
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