Help, mazda dealer service dept
05-01-2013, 10:16 PM
#51
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I don't know if just misfires could disable your car so quickly.
I had a CEL for bad cat and misfires, but mine only ran bad at high RPMs.
I'm hoping some other members weigh in with their opinions.
If the cat strata broke up and blocked your exhaust, that could that could stop
I had a CEL for bad cat and misfires, but mine only ran bad at high RPMs.
I'm hoping some other members weigh in with their opinions.
If the cat strata broke up and blocked your exhaust, that could that could stop
05-01-2013, 10:31 PM
#52
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
my cat went bad. I replaced it with a midpipe, and all ignition parts.
I may have to get one if Missouri starts checking emissions.
Did your Uncle do any work on it yet?
Be sure to direct him here.
Anything he needs, he can find here.
A lot of guys are done for the day, I will be shortly.
5am shift for me.
I'm sure someone will reply in the morning.
RIWWP is very knowledgeable and can help you out.
Good luck
05-01-2013, 10:36 PM
#53
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Thread Starter
No problem. Mine was 4 days out of warranty when
my cat went bad. I replaced it with a midpipe, and all ignition parts.
I may have to get one if Missouri starts checking emissions.
Did your Uncle do any work on it yet?
Be sure to direct him here.
Anything he needs, he can find here.
A lot of guys are done for the day, I will be shortly.
5am shift for me.
I'm sure someone will reply in the morning.
RIWWP is very knowledgeable and can help you out.
Good luck
my cat went bad. I replaced it with a midpipe, and all ignition parts.
I may have to get one if Missouri starts checking emissions.
Did your Uncle do any work on it yet?
Be sure to direct him here.
Anything he needs, he can find here.
A lot of guys are done for the day, I will be shortly.
5am shift for me.
I'm sure someone will reply in the morning.
RIWWP is very knowledgeable and can help you out.
Good luck
05-01-2013, 11:01 PM
#54
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
I have a 2006 rx8 with only 37k miles on it.
It went from running perfectly fine one day, to turning off every time I slowed down the next morning. The car turns on fine. It just keeps shutting down.
I had it towed to my Mazda dealer (I have only taken it to a Mazda dealer for any other work) and the guy told me rotary 2 missfired 2200 times and rotary 1 missfire 46 times. I needed to:
replace 4 spark plugs and 4 coils $1,018
Replace to motor mounts $588
and replace the catalyst converter for $1,580.
I called back and told him I would just play the $70 for the diagnostic and I would take it to another shop.
He then told me that maybe I didn't need the converter and maybe I should just change the coils and plugs.
When I heard that, it just sounded wrong. How can I go from having a"destroyed catalyst" (his words) to maybe not even needing it to bechanged?
I feel like he was trying to rip me off or something.
It went from running perfectly fine one day, to turning off every time I slowed down the next morning. The car turns on fine. It just keeps shutting down.
I had it towed to my Mazda dealer (I have only taken it to a Mazda dealer for any other work) and the guy told me rotary 2 missfired 2200 times and rotary 1 missfire 46 times. I needed to:
replace 4 spark plugs and 4 coils $1,018
Replace to motor mounts $588
and replace the catalyst converter for $1,580.
I called back and told him I would just play the $70 for the diagnostic and I would take it to another shop.
He then told me that maybe I didn't need the converter and maybe I should just change the coils and plugs.
When I heard that, it just sounded wrong. How can I go from having a"destroyed catalyst" (his words) to maybe not even needing it to bechanged?
I feel like he was trying to rip me off or something.
With that said, hopefully you find someone closer to you that can do similar without all the BS. Your car needs a tune up... Autozone for plugs and coils (lifetime warranty -- read never have to worry about them again) and walk in to a dealer with a printout (it can be found here fairly easily) of the federal emissions warranty and you'll get a new mid pipe.
I doubt there's really something wrong with your motor mounts... even so if they are bad it takes any reasonable mechanic 20 minutes with a jack to replace them.
05-01-2013, 11:32 PM
#55
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Thread Starter
I'll do all the work (including parts) that your dealer recommended for $1,500. This includes the round trip flight i'll have to book to do the work plus the cost of parts.
With that said, hopefully you find someone closer to you that can do similar without all the BS. Your car needs a tune up... Autozone for plugs and coils (lifetime warranty -- read never have to worry about them again) and walk in to a dealer with a printout (it can be found here fairly easily) of the federal emissions warranty and you'll get a new mid pipe.
I doubt there's really something wrong with your motor mounts... even so if they are bad it takes any reasonable mechanic 20 minutes with a jack to replace them.
With that said, hopefully you find someone closer to you that can do similar without all the BS. Your car needs a tune up... Autozone for plugs and coils (lifetime warranty -- read never have to worry about them again) and walk in to a dealer with a printout (it can be found here fairly easily) of the federal emissions warranty and you'll get a new mid pipe.
I doubt there's really something wrong with your motor mounts... even so if they are bad it takes any reasonable mechanic 20 minutes with a jack to replace them.
I've never had experience taking my car outside of the dealer for service so I had no clue.
I was just really wary with the service rep changing his story.
05-02-2013, 07:21 AM
#56
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There is a reason we refer to them as "stealerships"
There are a few good dealerships out there, but unfortunately a greater portion will try to pull this stuff over any owner that they have a hint might not actually know what is wrong with their car.
Your car almost certainly only needs plugs, wires, and coils. IF, and I repeat IF, the problem continues after those are replaced, then definitely come back and let us know and we can help work you through the next pieces. Given the mileage of the car, you need that ignition replaced anyway, so this isn't money wasted at all.
The dealer's comment in the paperwork about possible damage to the cat is unfortunately correct. The misfires you racked up will have certainly reduced the cat lifespan considerably. You will need to be on the lookout for mileage dropping fast, lack of top end full throttle power, and glowing from the cat. More specifically, the glowing of a clogged cat starts in a tight ring around the O2 sensor, and spreads out from there.
A clogged can cat be deadly to your engine, so if you start seeing top end power loss and a huge drop in mileage, stop driving it till you can get the cat replaced (remember about that federal emissions warranty!)
There are a few good dealerships out there, but unfortunately a greater portion will try to pull this stuff over any owner that they have a hint might not actually know what is wrong with their car.
Your car almost certainly only needs plugs, wires, and coils. IF, and I repeat IF, the problem continues after those are replaced, then definitely come back and let us know and we can help work you through the next pieces. Given the mileage of the car, you need that ignition replaced anyway, so this isn't money wasted at all.
The dealer's comment in the paperwork about possible damage to the cat is unfortunately correct. The misfires you racked up will have certainly reduced the cat lifespan considerably. You will need to be on the lookout for mileage dropping fast, lack of top end full throttle power, and glowing from the cat. More specifically, the glowing of a clogged cat starts in a tight ring around the O2 sensor, and spreads out from there.
A clogged can cat be deadly to your engine, so if you start seeing top end power loss and a huge drop in mileage, stop driving it till you can get the cat replaced (remember about that federal emissions warranty!)
05-02-2013, 03:23 PM
#57
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What do you mean exactly " lack of top end full throttle power" so I can know what I'm looking or feeling for.
If need be, how do I go about the warranty for the cat? The service rep told me that mazda said' "it wasn't time to replace it".
If need be, how do I go about the warranty for the cat? The service rep told me that mazda said' "it wasn't time to replace it".
05-02-2013, 03:25 PM
#58
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I also got word from my Uncle that my car is ready for pick up! Yay! I'll be getting it back tomorrow.
I'll be sure to watch out for all the signs you guys have been great to offer.
I'll be sure to watch out for all the signs you guys have been great to offer.
05-02-2013, 03:34 PM
#59
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The RX-8's torque curve is pretty flat, meaning that if you were to put the throttle pedal to the floor at ~3,000rpm, you will feel the same amount of push back into your seat all the way to redline.
If your cat is clogging, you will feel a drop off in this power delivery, the tach needle will slow it's climb. This is because the cat is a cap on the total amount of exhaust flow the engine can put out, and as the revs climb so does the exhaust flow. Restrict the exhaust flow and you kill the power proportional to the degree of the clog.
Take everything that service rep told you and junk it. Completely. Don't base anything you do in the future on what that advisor told you.
Getting the cat warranty is simply a matter of:
- Having a cat that has failed
- Having a dealer recognize that it has failed (sometimes can be difficult)
- Be within the 8yr 80,000 mile federal emissions warranty
When my cat failed, I brought the cat to the dealer in the trunk (midpipe on), advisor took a look in the end, agreed with me, ordered the new cat. When it came in a few weeks later, they re-installed my old cat to run a test for paperwork records, put the midpipe in the trunk, and installed the brand new cat. Handed me a bill for $0.
That's how simple it SHOULD be. Any greater amount of difficulty is the dealer throwing roadblocks in your way trying to milk you for money or prevent them having to file the claim (many dealers don't like warranty paperwork).
The "it's not time" comment is complete and utter garbage, and he knows it.
If your cat is clogging, you will feel a drop off in this power delivery, the tach needle will slow it's climb. This is because the cat is a cap on the total amount of exhaust flow the engine can put out, and as the revs climb so does the exhaust flow. Restrict the exhaust flow and you kill the power proportional to the degree of the clog.
Take everything that service rep told you and junk it. Completely. Don't base anything you do in the future on what that advisor told you.
Getting the cat warranty is simply a matter of:
- Having a cat that has failed
- Having a dealer recognize that it has failed (sometimes can be difficult)
- Be within the 8yr 80,000 mile federal emissions warranty
When my cat failed, I brought the cat to the dealer in the trunk (midpipe on), advisor took a look in the end, agreed with me, ordered the new cat. When it came in a few weeks later, they re-installed my old cat to run a test for paperwork records, put the midpipe in the trunk, and installed the brand new cat. Handed me a bill for $0.
That's how simple it SHOULD be. Any greater amount of difficulty is the dealer throwing roadblocks in your way trying to milk you for money or prevent them having to file the claim (many dealers don't like warranty paperwork).
The "it's not time" comment is complete and utter garbage, and he knows it.
05-02-2013, 04:07 PM
#60
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Thank you so much for writing all this out for me. Makes more sense now.
Last thing, so if the cat fails for any reason it's covered? I know you said not to listen to what the rep said but just so you can validate this for me, he also told me it wasn't covered because of the damage from the misfires. This isn't true either right?
Last thing, so if the cat fails for any reason it's covered? I know you said not to listen to what the rep said but just so you can validate this for me, he also told me it wasn't covered because of the damage from the misfires. This isn't true either right?
05-02-2013, 04:17 PM
#61
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Correct, that isn't true.
Official EPA.gov PDF: http://www.epa.gov/obd/pubs/420f09048.pdf
Page 4 notes the cat mileage warranty, page 5 has this:
In theory they can deny someone for misfires caused by plug failure only as plugs are a normal maintenance item. However, coils fail just as fast, and plug failure can actually cause coil failure. Coils are NOT officially listed as a maintenance item, so even if "everyone knows" that coils should be replaced regularly, legally any coil failure can't be considered a normal wear and tear failure.
And, for more ammunition, check out the California specific emissions warranty:
http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/warranty.pdf
7yrs, 70,000 miles.
This overlaps the federal warranty, meaning that your car is covered by both equally until 7yrs 70,001 miles, then federal only for the next 1yr 10,000 miles.
No, the dealer won't really have a choice in the matter.
Official EPA.gov PDF: http://www.epa.gov/obd/pubs/420f09048.pdf
Page 4 notes the cat mileage warranty, page 5 has this:
How Do I Know Whether I Am Entitled to Coverage Under the Emissions Warranties?
If you or a qualified automotive technician can show that an emission control or emission
related component, or a specified major, emission-control component, is defective, the repair
or replacement of the part is probably covered under the Design and Defect warranty. If your
vehicle failed a federally approved emissions test and has not exceeded the time and mileage
limitations for the Performance warranty, any repairs or adjustments necessary for your vehicle
to pass should be covered by the manufacturer if the failure was not caused by improper maintenance or abuse.
If you or a qualified automotive technician can show that an emission control or emission
related component, or a specified major, emission-control component, is defective, the repair
or replacement of the part is probably covered under the Design and Defect warranty. If your
vehicle failed a federally approved emissions test and has not exceeded the time and mileage
limitations for the Performance warranty, any repairs or adjustments necessary for your vehicle
to pass should be covered by the manufacturer if the failure was not caused by improper maintenance or abuse.
And, for more ammunition, check out the California specific emissions warranty:
http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/warranty.pdf
7yrs, 70,000 miles.
This overlaps the federal warranty, meaning that your car is covered by both equally until 7yrs 70,001 miles, then federal only for the next 1yr 10,000 miles.
No, the dealer won't really have a choice in the matter.
05-02-2013, 05:35 PM
#62
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Just don't get yourself killed. 
05-02-2013, 06:22 PM
#63
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Please let us know how your car runs.
Some things I did on the advice of the guys here when I was having issues were cleaning the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor and the ESS (Eccentric Shaft Sensor), followed by the "20 brake stomp" procedure, which resets the ECU.
I'm not saying you need to have those done.
I'm guessing you have a lot to digest already, but those are some other common helpful helpful things you may want to read up on in case you have any other issues after your tuneup.
Don't be a stranger.
05-07-2013, 09:01 PM
#64
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Just an update**
Got my car back last Friday. She seems to be running fine now.
I paid all in all $1,000 for everything I had done to it but it was still cheaper than the dealer $3,000+ (I'm sure that still seems a bit high still but oh well lol)
and the catalytic converter did not have to be replaced.
Got my car back last Friday. She seems to be running fine now.
I paid all in all $1,000 for everything I had done to it but it was still cheaper than the dealer $3,000+ (I'm sure that still seems a bit high still but oh well lol)
and the catalytic converter did not have to be replaced.
05-07-2013, 09:33 PM
#65
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glad to hear your car is back on the road. 
05-08-2013, 03:50 AM
#67
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Just an update**
Got my car back last Friday. She seems to be running fine now.
I paid all in all $1,000 for everything I had done to it but it was still cheaper than the dealer $3,000+ (I'm sure that still seems a bit high still but oh well lol)
and the catalytic converter did not have to be replaced.
Got my car back last Friday. She seems to be running fine now.
I paid all in all $1,000 for everything I had done to it but it was still cheaper than the dealer $3,000+ (I'm sure that still seems a bit high still but oh well lol)
and the catalytic converter did not have to be replaced.
If you have time, would you mind describing what you had done?
It might benefit other members in a similar situation, and I'm curious.
Don't Forget to redline it once in a while!
Have fun!
05-09-2013, 10:31 PM
#68
Mazda has a specific testing function in the IDS for checking the flow of the cat. I have seen cats pass that test but glow red hot and totally lose power while on a road test lol
Cat warranty is the same as the engine in Canada at least, but if it passes IDS testing they cant do anything to help warranty wise (unless it fails emissions testing)... Mazda warranty audit bites back if they the dealer cant supply IDS freeze frame data.
Cat warranty is the same as the engine in Canada at least, but if it passes IDS testing they cant do anything to help warranty wise (unless it fails emissions testing)... Mazda warranty audit bites back if they the dealer cant supply IDS freeze frame data.
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