Help! (Overheating)
#1
Help! (Overheating)
So I drove about 15 miles today, I am always constantly checking me oil and water temps. Everything was fine, until I went into Subway. I left the car running with the AC on. It was 90 degrees outside and when i hopped back into the car 5minutes later. The water temp level was 2-3 notches higher than normal, I immediatly shut off my AC and let is sit, checked underneath for any leaks and opened the hood which was very hot. I didnt see anything so I continued to drive the 1mile back to my house, as I started driving the gauge went back to normal.
Is this something I need to get checked out? ive never had it happen to me before.
Is this something I need to get checked out? ive never had it happen to me before.
#2
Sounds like your fans were not running, and/or were not running enough. Possibly a blocked fan. Driving started air flow through the radiator, dropping temps. Get that fixed asap, it is already possible that you have engine damage from that. The needle doesn't start moving until it's past the threshhold where engine damage may occur (or may not, if you are lucky).
#3
Hey Clemson,
First off, welcome the 8club.
Sounds to me as though everything is fine based on what you're describing and that it was 90°F outside.
When you left it parked, it basically heat soaked since it's staying stationary (close to the hot asphalt) and there's not rush of air going towards the radiator to help the car cool off.
Also, just as an FYI: our temperature gauge is basically a 'dummy gauge' in the sense that it is not accurate.
The car is programmed to move the needle to a stationary point once the car reaches it's standard operating temperature (approx 150°) and then it remains at that exact same spot until you reach 220°F water temperature.
So if you see the needle moving, your car is essentially already overheating so just be careful not to drive it too aggressively until it's had some time to cool off a bit.
one other thing you'll notice in the summer is that after you get home and turn the car off, the radiator fans can stay on for quite some time.
Also perfectly normal.
First off, welcome the 8club.
Sounds to me as though everything is fine based on what you're describing and that it was 90°F outside.
When you left it parked, it basically heat soaked since it's staying stationary (close to the hot asphalt) and there's not rush of air going towards the radiator to help the car cool off.
Also, just as an FYI: our temperature gauge is basically a 'dummy gauge' in the sense that it is not accurate.
The car is programmed to move the needle to a stationary point once the car reaches it's standard operating temperature (approx 150°) and then it remains at that exact same spot until you reach 220°F water temperature.
So if you see the needle moving, your car is essentially already overheating so just be careful not to drive it too aggressively until it's had some time to cool off a bit.
one other thing you'll notice in the summer is that after you get home and turn the car off, the radiator fans can stay on for quite some time.
Also perfectly normal.
#4
Thank you for that confirmation. I thought that was the case, but it's good to hear from a veteran 8 owner to confirm that. I'm used to a small 4-pot whose fan turned off very shortly after I turned the car off.
#6
#7
Thanks for the quick replies! I hope my baby isnt damaged, is there anything I should keep an eye out for when running it to know if she is hurt?
Luckily its an 07 and I am still under warranty for awhile longer.
Luckily its an 07 and I am still under warranty for awhile longer.
#8
Make sure those fans turn on. Let it idle, pop the hood, and wait for the fans to turn on and cycle off. Make sure both fans come on.
Otherwise, watch for harder cold starts from coolant leaking into the engine, coolant smell from the exhaust, white smoke on startup, slow coolant loss without any puddles, periodic ignition stumbles....um, i think that's it.
If there was damage, it will be a coolant seal failure, and coolant seal failure usually shows up with one or more of those symptoms.
Otherwise, watch for harder cold starts from coolant leaking into the engine, coolant smell from the exhaust, white smoke on startup, slow coolant loss without any puddles, periodic ignition stumbles....um, i think that's it.
If there was damage, it will be a coolant seal failure, and coolant seal failure usually shows up with one or more of those symptoms.
#9
clemson: since the temp gauge has such a large range before it moves, there really isn't a way to know before the car starts overheating and the needle moves.
Where are you located if you don't mind us asking?
Did you buy the car new back in '07 or is it a recent acquisition?
If it's new to you, I might suggest having the cooling system flushed and getting fresh fluids in there, that's always a great maintenance item to perform every few years, especially as we start getting into summer temperatures.
another thing would be to test the fans as RIWWP alluded to in his 1st post.
You will probably notice them kicking on and especially when you get home, you should hear them still going after you turn the car off.
as for engine failure, smoke, etc: I wouldn't worry about that too much just yet. I've gotten my water temps up to about 242°F (verified with my aftermarket gauges and accessPort) and never had any seal failures.
Where are you located if you don't mind us asking?
Did you buy the car new back in '07 or is it a recent acquisition?
If it's new to you, I might suggest having the cooling system flushed and getting fresh fluids in there, that's always a great maintenance item to perform every few years, especially as we start getting into summer temperatures.
another thing would be to test the fans as RIWWP alluded to in his 1st post.
You will probably notice them kicking on and especially when you get home, you should hear them still going after you turn the car off.
as for engine failure, smoke, etc: I wouldn't worry about that too much just yet. I've gotten my water temps up to about 242°F (verified with my aftermarket gauges and accessPort) and never had any seal failures.
Last edited by Jedi54; 06-12-2013 at 06:04 PM.
#13
Then go for the relays................f you just sit there at idle, it shouldn't be very long before the fans kick on.
#14
#15
One fan comes on when A/C is running - that is the loudest fan. Turned off the a/c and thought I heard another fan, so I pulled FAN2 relay and the sound stopped - guess the fans are working.
Only problem - went to put the relay back in and there was a spark, and now the car won't start or even crank. I followed info on other posts - checked the fuses, even the 120A and all are good, dash lights up, radio works, etc... I bypassed the starter relay, and the starter turns. Did the same with the fuel pump and could hear it running also (had to bypass Control relay to do this ..). Bypassing FAN2 does nothing now - may have zapped that fan motor(?)
Is there a way to check the ECU to see if that spark did something?
Only problem - went to put the relay back in and there was a spark, and now the car won't start or even crank. I followed info on other posts - checked the fuses, even the 120A and all are good, dash lights up, radio works, etc... I bypassed the starter relay, and the starter turns. Did the same with the fuel pump and could hear it running also (had to bypass Control relay to do this ..). Bypassing FAN2 does nothing now - may have zapped that fan motor(?)
Is there a way to check the ECU to see if that spark did something?
#16
I believe it means your compression has dropped (but not enough to have "failed" or to turn on the check engine light). Lower compression changes the way the fuel burns and raises what is already high engine temperature. Complain bitterly to the dealer service center. Carefully check your warranty and ensure the fault is properly acknowledged by Mazda before the warranty expires. This is how it happened to me, except my engine expired at 71k miles, 104 months. $5200, and one week in the shop. GMC Yukon (?!) loaner.
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