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HELP P0171. I cannot find this part. mechanic doesnt have an idea whats going on
Just went to a mechanic that has done some work on rx8s. After an hour or so he found a problem close to the “Oil metering nozzles.” Where some of the rubber tubes have been ripped from heat and cracked. We found these tubes are connected somewhere which they broke off. The mechanic has no idea what this part is called and said he will try and find it and get a replacement. I hope this isnt the OMP because that is really pricy. Continuing on the CEL P0171. This has been coming on and off for weeks and i have replaced the MAF sensor 2 weeks ago and. Catalytic ignition coils spark plugs and wires have been replaced in December. Should i take this to a dealer. Red circle is the part i am talking about. Blue circle is what we think the problem might be it seems like there should be 4 hoses coming out from there 2 are broken im guessing. What should i do/order/fix? Mechanic put a nail in the hose so it wouldnt create a Vacuum. Middle of the picture.
Most likely it is the air bleed manifold that is under the primary fuel rail. It bleeds air into the oil injection nozzles. The plastic block tends to get brittle and break.
That will be a dealer only part likely... and you need to take the UIM and fuel rail off to get at it. The rubber hoses are pretty standard... but check the oil metering lines to make sure they are OK
Yes that’s what it is. Filtered air is taken off the intake inlet from in front of the throttle body, to the plastic manifold insulator distribution body, and then from it to the top of the four oil injectors. It provides filtered air to bleed the vacuum off the oil injector nozzles.
Most likely it is the air bleed manifold that is under the primary fuel rail. It bleeds air into the oil injection nozzles. The plastic block tends to get brittle and break.
That will be a dealer only part likely... and you need to take the UIM and fuel rail off to get at it. The rubber hoses are pretty standard... but check the oil metering lines to make sure they are OK
1) It is a dealer only part
2) replace the rubber vacuum lines easily while you are in there, just make sure you are using vacuum line and not a washer fluid line or something that could collapse under vacuum.
3) when you buy it from the dealer, CHECK IT FOR LEAKS. I had purchased one and installed it while replacing my oil meter injectors not knowing it had the smallest leak in it. Caused me major issues with stalling at idle and fuel trims being way out of line. It was brand new and looked perfectly fine... and I was chasing my tail for so long going nuts that I ended up buying a different car to daily. Came back to the 8 a week later and checked out that part just in case something was up with it despite being brand new, and found it to be the culprit. A $12-$15 piece of plastic caused me to drop $16,000 on a new daily... -___-
4) While you are under there doing other repairs, make sure to fix and plug any and all vacuum leaks as well as check the 3 vacuum solenoids on the vacuum chamber on your oil fill neck assembly, they tend to go bad and cause a host of other issues.
2) replace the rubber vacuum lines easily while you are in there, just make sure you are using vacuum line and not a washer fluid line or something that could collapse under vacuum.
3) when you buy it from the dealer, CHECK IT FOR LEAKS. I had purchased one and installed it while replacing my oil meter injectors not knowing it had the smallest leak in it. Caused me major issues with stalling at idle and fuel trims being way out of line. It was brand new and looked perfectly fine... and I was chasing my tail for so long going nuts that I ended up buying a different car to daily. Came back to the 8 a week later and checked out that part just in case something was up with it despite being brand new, and found it to be the culprit. A $12-$15 piece of plastic caused me to drop $16,000 on a new daily... -___-
4) While you are under there doing other repairs, make sure to fix and plug any and all vacuum leaks as well as check the 3 vacuum solenoids on the vacuum chamber on your oil fill neck assembly, they tend to go bad and cause a host of other issues.
Thanks for the info everyone. The mechanic told me they found the parts but would take about a week to come in. I was wondering if i should drive the car or let it sit at their shop until it gets fixed. The mechanic said its only a vacuum leak and if ive been driving it with faulty hoses i should be fine with 2 missing. Also what other problems could arise from this problem? In other words what other part of the car should i ask the mechanic to take a look at? The oil injector nozzles themselves?
Injector nozzles have their own preventative maintenance, would check if they hold vacuum even if vacuum leak in the accumulator is solved. Easier to do if he's getting the UIM off.
You really want all the hoses plugged in properly once you fix the immediate problem, they're not optional.
I wouldn't drive it if you can avoid it. But if you must, it won't cause any immediate damage.
Injector nozzles have their own preventative maintenance, would check if they hold vacuum even if vacuum leak in the accumulator is solved. Easier to do if he's getting the UIM off.
You really want all the hoses plugged in properly once you fix the immediate problem, they're not optional.
I wouldn't drive it if you can avoid it. But if you must, it won't cause any immediate damage.
hey guys I just got the car back yesterday from the shop they said all the oxygen levels look good and everything and the CEL is off and doesnt look like its gonna come back. I hate to say this BUT there might be a new problem idk if this is a problem but 1st gear as you can see in the video with very light pressure on the gas pedal going from 0-2 mph the rpm drops from like 1000 to 250 then back up and starts to accelerate. Im pretty sure i did not have this problem before getting the fix as i would have felt the loss of power. Also accelerating up to 10-13 mph feels a bit slower than it should be on the hwy and above 30 mph its a BEAST and accelerates great maybe even faster than before. Ive ordered a catless midpipe and will be premixing starting this monday. Any ideas?
These are the videos im talking about. I put the slightest pressure on the gas pedal and the rpm drops but as i put more pressure it starts to speed up.
Are all the hoses plugged in to the intake properly now?
"oxygen levels" is not a thing.
A couple of ideas:
-the battery was disconnected and the car just needs to relearn everything. This should be done after a drive or two.
- there's still a vacuum leak somewhere, possibly they left something loose while putting the intake back together.
06-21-2022, 01:41 PM
