Trex87

Guys I'm out of answers, the clutch is less than a year old. Before replacing it the noise was the same so I thought Ok TOB is bad. Replaced it and noise came back. Went to rotary guy he said TOB is bad and it was worn out but not the clutch so he put in a new TOB. The noise is back.. he didn't see anything else wrong, does this sound like a bad release Fork that's binding the TOB??

Here's a video

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

That is normal, it just needs to be adjusted properly, mine used to do the exact same thing until I read the FSM and learned what need to be adjusted. I'd suggest a new mechanic.

Trex87

Adjust the TOB? It was adjusted by a rotary specialist though. The fsm is the manual?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Adjusting the clutch, and yes FSM = factory Service Manual. And FYI, the term "rotary specialist" generally is bullshit and either way it has nothing to do with installing clutches properly.

If the noise doesn't go away after being adjusted then it could have been an install error or a lack of lubrication in key areas. Was the pilot bearing replaced?

Trex87

True, but he did say he lubricated it and aligned it. He also replaced the pilot. When I got my 8 the oem clutch was making the same noise. Everything was replaced and when this guy brought it down the new TOB was worn/old looking compared to the clutch which was installed at the same time. This guy said that bad installs are common and he rebuilds rotaries and installs turbos so I had faith in him. I've been dealing with this noise so long it's just upsetting. Shifting is notchy too, the pedal is hard and loses free play after long driving

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I agree with him that bad installs are common, including his.

Trex87

Lol would a clutch specialist do better? I mean I'd feel kinda weird showing him the manual and saying it's supposed to be like this you know?

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

I mean it's following directions. Every car has it's own nuisances and specific procedures and a qualified technician has to be able to troubleshoot and work things out, not just replace parts without a proper diagnosis and call it a day and let the customer deal with it.

Did he show you the old clutch parts? Have any pics?

Trex87

True, yeah he showed me the TOB which was under a year old and said that it looked like it was never replaced in the first place. When he dropped the tranny he said clutch replacement wasn't necessary because it looked good except the TOB. Both clutch and TOB under a year old. He also said that it left some scratch marks on the tranny but did not damage it

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

I would adjust the clutch pedal and go from there. A small amount of throwout bearing whine is normal but the chattering is not. Sounds like the throwout bearing could use to be adjusted closer to the pressure plate so that more pressure is applied.

Trex87

Could it be the slave cylinder rod making contact with the TOB resulting in noise and worn TOB?

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

The slave cylinder rod does not make contact with the throwout bearing. The slave cylinder rod applies pressure to the clutch fork directly. The throwout bearing resides on the clutch fork. An improperly adjusted clutch pedal would put extra stain on the throwout bearing, yes. But it would also put an extra strain on the clutch pressure plate and disc. It would act as though you were resting your foot on the clutch pedal, constantly applying pressure.

Trex87

I've seen videos of a badly adjusted slave rod which make a whirling noise with the fork on something, it was on a miata and sounded exactly like mine. I just can't believe two great mechanics misaligned my TOB you know? You obviously know more than me but I'm just trying to make sense of this. Cuz I hear the TOB chatter like it usually does in the 8. After the first replacement I had my slave cylinder replaced and the noise was gone for about two months then it came back

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

The slave cylinder rod is one length and cannot be adjusted. The clutch pedal decides the play in the takeup of the pedal and adjusts pressure on the clutch master cylinder, which in turn will adjust pressure on the slave cylinder through hydraulic pressure. You can check to see if the clutch fork is wallowed out where the salve cylinder rod meets it. That would be something to check.

Trex87

Should I do that from underneath? I know it's hard from the engine bay. If there is would some grease help it? I've done most things on the 8 myself I'm just a bit cautious when it comes to the clutch system

Trex87

Guys I think I've found the problem..

First I made sure my pedal adjustment was up to spec. I turned on the car, took a long ratchet extension bar and put it next to the slave rubber boot. I BARELY touched it and the whirling stopped right away. I literally just put the bar on top of the boot and it stopped... What do you think?

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

I would remove the slave cylinder from the bellhousing and inspect the rod for play. It could be that there is wear on the rod causing it to vibrate resulting in the noise or it could be that the fork has wear where the slave cylinder rod meets it, resulting in a vibration or noise.

Trex87

OK, there's no way I can go about this without later bleeding it?

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

You don't have to disconnect the hydraulic line, you can just unbolt it from the transmission. Then no bleeding needed.

Trex87

Gotcha, I'll give it a go

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

Should be only two 12mm bolts that hold the slave cylinder on. It will slip off of the clutch fork with no effort.

Trex87

So I guess the best way to get to it is from underneath right?

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

Yes sir.