Hey everyone, New owner and problems
#1
Hey everyone, New owner and problems
So i bought a 2008 auto with 44,000 on it. I bought it from copart.com and it came from Virginia. It was bought with the fact that it ran and drive. The car arrived about 2 weeks ago here in Florida and it cranked fine. So today i decided to take it on a test run and after running less than a block the car shut off.
My question is what could cause it to shut off while its running and already warm (its hot as hell in Miami now)?
I did change the oil and filter day before this test run, but maybe i forgot to do something before that. please let me know what I'm doing wrong here
My question is what could cause it to shut off while its running and already warm (its hot as hell in Miami now)?
I did change the oil and filter day before this test run, but maybe i forgot to do something before that. please let me know what I'm doing wrong here
#2
#3
One other thing, after pushing down on the gas the check engine light appears as well the water and battery. Than shut off, could it be the coils, spark plugs, MAF, fuel fliter or fuel pump or something else...
#5
So I've driving the car for the past month and so far its been ok. I am planning on replacing one of the rear shocks cause its a little low, the issue with the car is a jumpy idle when its still. With the AC off it vibrates a little but at times vibrates a lot when it hot. With the AC on it vibrates all the time that it for certain.
I need to know if this is the direct causes from the engine mounts or plugs/coils. I'm limited in funds and would like an idea which to focus on first. Thanks
I need to know if this is the direct causes from the engine mounts or plugs/coils. I'm limited in funds and would like an idea which to focus on first. Thanks
#7
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 252 Likes
on
110 Posts
If the tachometer needle is unstable (with or without vibration), then go to plugs, coils, wires, clean the MAF, clean the ESS, reset the ESS, and confirm no vacuum leaks.
If the needle is stable but there is vibration, then go to motor mounts.
If the needle is stable but there is vibration, then go to motor mounts.
#10
OK, i haven't had the time to make the changes yet but I have noticed something. Sorry for sounding like a broken record but now when the AC is off the car is not vibrating any more. it drive like very smooth. Now with the AC on the vibration is very noticeable. Any suggestion...
Also look at this pic from the moon roof controls.
Can any tell me what this is cause it doesnt open the moon roof.
Also look at this pic from the moon roof controls.
Can any tell me what this is cause it doesnt open the moon roof.
#11
#14
Those aren't the OEM controls for the sunroof so maybe previous owner tried to replace original switches for some reason. Either way, that is the location where the original control switches would be placed.
I'm curious if you could share how much you paid to get your RX8. Was it a salvage title?
I'm curious if you could share how much you paid to get your RX8. Was it a salvage title?
#15
I bought crashed with no front bumper. The engine ran but I wouldn't know that till it got to my house. Surprisingly sitting for a month it still runs pretty well. I bought through copart.com for $3200 with $600 shipping with 44,000 miles. Besides getting a aftermarket bumper for $300 and changing the oil/filter it runs smooth besides the shaking. My father does body work on cars so he's helping me.
I'd figure as much that those were not the control. I tried pressing them to open the moon roof but nothing happens not even a sound from the motor so I'm not sure if it's the motor, the controls, a fuse, or the entire assembly.
I'd figure as much that those were not the control. I tried pressing them to open the moon roof but nothing happens not even a sound from the motor so I'm not sure if it's the motor, the controls, a fuse, or the entire assembly.
#16
ドラゴンチェイサー
Start with the simple stuff to troubleshoot it. The simple things are the ones most often overlooked and sually come back to bite you in the butt. Start with checking the fuse in the engine compartment. It should be in the #4 socket and marked either "4" or "BTN" and is rated 30 amps. Checking as we speak to see if and where there is a relay for the roof.
#20
ドラゴンチェイサー
That sounds like you had a bad ground and tightening screws resolved it. With that in mind, perhaps you should go through all the leads to and from the moonroof, as well. Might be one or more is loose or corroded there, as well. When you do, lightly coat each ground connector with dielectric compound to improve conductivity and slow down moisture penetration.
#21
More probems
o god more problems i was reading on a few threads hear about overheating. Yes, the car started overheating when I had the AC on. Once I saw the needle moving more to the right I turned off the AC. With the car still on it slowly went back to the left side. I saw some water splash under the condenser or radiator on the right side inside the bumper. Moments before the temp was rising my AC was throwing out warm air but little by little.
Idk, I hear the fans on but I'm not sure if one is bad or not, is it my radiator, thermostat, i dont see any coolant leak externally, oil is good, what else could it be???
Idk, I hear the fans on but I'm not sure if one is bad or not, is it my radiator, thermostat, i dont see any coolant leak externally, oil is good, what else could it be???
#22
Moder8
iTrader: (1)
Sounds like it is running now...
I would suggest the parts of the $100 thread that relate to cooling. Foam around the radiator is a huge one, the most important.
for the fans. Pull Fan relay 1 and jumper the larger 2 sockets. This will put the fans in series, and on low speed. If both run, you likely have 2 good fans. leave them jumpered, and pull relay 2. Jumper the large sockets there as well. Both fans should now be on high.
If the fans are working, what is possible is that the hot engine compartment air is getting pushed back around the radiator buy the fans. The harder they run, the worse it makes it. The first thing you lose is any chance that the AC will work. Followed by the engine temp rising.
The water splash was likely out the overflow bottle if things got pretty hot.
I played this game with mine. Once I did the foam and a few other things, I could sit still, in a 100 degree parking lot, get 60 degree air out of the AC, never move the temp needle, and be the same way half an hour later.
Good luck.
I would suggest the parts of the $100 thread that relate to cooling. Foam around the radiator is a huge one, the most important.
for the fans. Pull Fan relay 1 and jumper the larger 2 sockets. This will put the fans in series, and on low speed. If both run, you likely have 2 good fans. leave them jumpered, and pull relay 2. Jumper the large sockets there as well. Both fans should now be on high.
If the fans are working, what is possible is that the hot engine compartment air is getting pushed back around the radiator buy the fans. The harder they run, the worse it makes it. The first thing you lose is any chance that the AC will work. Followed by the engine temp rising.
The water splash was likely out the overflow bottle if things got pretty hot.
I played this game with mine. Once I did the foam and a few other things, I could sit still, in a 100 degree parking lot, get 60 degree air out of the AC, never move the temp needle, and be the same way half an hour later.
Good luck.
#24
Moder8
iTrader: (1)
If they are not working, you are hosed. I woudl make sure they are working as intended (both) before surgery on anything else. If one is off, the hot air just flows in one side of radiator, and back out the other unless you are going down the highway. Another test I keep frogetting about is to just turn on the AC with the car runing, both fans should be on, I think on high. If only one one is running, you need to address that first.