hi i need help with my RX8
#1
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Hi i have a 2004 automatic rx8 and i took out the air box and put a intake and put the filter under the bumper... big mistake because i ran trought a puddle a couple of days ago and my car went off.... push it to the side tried to start it but didnt start.....
now i want to know what i should do to fix it,.... i already took the spark plug and the fuel relay and crank it so pulled water out... and the spark plugs were wet.. so i replaced it still wont start.... i mean tries but wont run.. so i want to know what i have to do![Confused](https://www.rx8club.com/images/smilies/confused.gif)
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now i want to know what i should do to fix it,.... i already took the spark plug and the fuel relay and crank it so pulled water out... and the spark plugs were wet.. so i replaced it still wont start.... i mean tries but wont run.. so i want to know what i have to do
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#2
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Oh boy. This could be really simple, or it could be really major. Low mount intake pickup points coupled with high water has destroyed a number of engines from water ingestion, cracking the engine block.
If you aren't actively leaking oil and coolant (and the fluid levels are good), then you probably escaped that fate. (but maybe not, it's not a sure thing till the engine is running and you aren't leaking)
I'm going to start off by quoting a post i made to someone else in another "won't start" thread the other day, to give you a point to start at.
If you aren't actively leaking oil and coolant (and the fluid levels are good), then you probably escaped that fate. (but maybe not, it's not a sure thing till the engine is running and you aren't leaking)
I'm going to start off by quoting a post i made to someone else in another "won't start" thread the other day, to give you a point to start at.
It sounds like you are only taking pieces of solutions and applying those pieces.
How about going back to the simple things...
You need compression, air, fuel, and spark.
You get compression from the engine rotation at a sufficient speed. You need sufficient battery power to drive the starter, and a sufficiently healthy starter so the electrical juice isn't wasted. You can still have insufficient compression if the starter and battery are healthy by having misplaced seals, loss of oil film, worn seals, shattered/destroyed seals
Air is usually not a problem, as it's very difficult to block the air flow in.
Fuel. It can be excessive or insufficient. Excessive fuel is through leaky injectors or from attempting to start without everything in top condition (flooding). Insufficient fuel can be due to an electrical problem with the injectors, a failing fuel pump, or a fouled/disconnected/dead e-shaft sensor. You can also have contaminated fuel through water in the fuel system, coolant leaking from a coolant seal failure, or excessive oil through failing oil control rings.
Spark. It has to happen, and it has to happen at the right time. This means that the e-shaft sensor has to be reporting to the ECU so the ECU knows when to fire the coils, and your entire ignition system has to be healthy. This means sufficiently healthy coils (~30k mile life average), sufficiently healthy wires (30k-40k), sufficiently healthy plugs (10k-30k), electrical grounding on the engine block to return the current.
So, what do you know you have?
How about going back to the simple things...
You need compression, air, fuel, and spark.
You get compression from the engine rotation at a sufficient speed. You need sufficient battery power to drive the starter, and a sufficiently healthy starter so the electrical juice isn't wasted. You can still have insufficient compression if the starter and battery are healthy by having misplaced seals, loss of oil film, worn seals, shattered/destroyed seals
Air is usually not a problem, as it's very difficult to block the air flow in.
Fuel. It can be excessive or insufficient. Excessive fuel is through leaky injectors or from attempting to start without everything in top condition (flooding). Insufficient fuel can be due to an electrical problem with the injectors, a failing fuel pump, or a fouled/disconnected/dead e-shaft sensor. You can also have contaminated fuel through water in the fuel system, coolant leaking from a coolant seal failure, or excessive oil through failing oil control rings.
Spark. It has to happen, and it has to happen at the right time. This means that the e-shaft sensor has to be reporting to the ECU so the ECU knows when to fire the coils, and your entire ignition system has to be healthy. This means sufficiently healthy coils (~30k mile life average), sufficiently healthy wires (30k-40k), sufficiently healthy plugs (10k-30k), electrical grounding on the engine block to return the current.
So, what do you know you have?
#4
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No, the MAF is not used during the cranking-to-fire procedure. It is only used once the engine is running.
Although yes, his MAF is likely fouled badly, and will need to be cleaned before the engine will run right.
Although yes, his MAF is likely fouled badly, and will need to be cleaned before the engine will run right.
#5
ok... the starter the ecu sensor and the ecu pulley are good.. i had problems with that before and the dealer replace them... the antifreeze is not going trought the engine because i check... but the oil was kind of low.... yesterday night i tried to start it with starter fluid and turned but then shutted of... we tried a couple of times but still shutting off...
#7
sorry the ess eccentric shaft sensor and the pulley also the ecu is good and the starter.... and i checked the coils and they have spark... so what you think is turning my car off?
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Technically, the 'gas pedal' has no control over fuel flow, just air flow via the throttle body. The only exception to this is that pushing the pedal to the floor while cranking disables the fuel injectors.
So i'm not really sure how to use that information to help you.
So i'm not really sure how to use that information to help you.
#13
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I hope you get your 8 turning again. Seeing as I'm getting one with the same intake I really hope it didn't do permanent damage. Have you taken off the CAI to at least let it dry out? I know letting it sit is a very bad idea, as the water WILL wreck havoc on your, well everything. Please keep us updated.
#15
ok i took everything apart and still have a little bit of water on it.. the new spark plugs came.out a little wet... how i take thr rest of the water out?
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#16
i took out the intake manifold, the air filter, and the 4 spark plugs and cables and let it dry in my garage... but i think it has to be a way to take all the water out??
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#17
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Same was as a fuel flood. Though if you already have the plugs out, leave them out, disconnect the e-shaft sensor (to kill both spark and fuel, you don't want to be dumping fuel or frying your disconnected coils) and crank it over in ~10-15 10 second intervals of cranking. Before you put the plugs back in, squirt a little bit of ATF or 2-stroke oil into each rotor housing to help restore the oil film, improve compression for the next start up, and clean out any gunk that may still be in there.
Expect a smokey start up.
Expect a smokey start up.
#18
ok thank you.... i will do that later... and this morning i went to the garage and found a water spot under the car think maybe is working lol.... i checked and is not antifreeze
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