2010 RX8 GT 6psd MT...57098 miles, i bought it 3 months ago at a Toyota dealer, but they had it recondition and checked by a Mazda dealer right accross the street before putting it up for sale when it had 52056 miles...

usual crank start 2-3 seconds

Ive noticed an intermitent longer cranking 5-8 seconds when engine is hot, but usually still starts 2-3 seconds...like i leave the car for 10-30 minutes then start it back up.

i heard hot start are usually 15-30 seconds before it starts...

im wondering if this is my case too?

im more leaning towards ignition... I dont belive the coils have ever been replaced and plugs too... On top of that the battery is a OEM replaced back in June 2012...

 

The plugs absolutely need to be replaced if original, and coils are a very good idea as well. Scratch that, coils are a must at that milage.

 

I agree and I have a 2010 GT. Mine has 44K miles and I just replaced the coils/plugs/wires this summer with Mazda OEM rev C coils, OEM plugs, and OEM wires. It was well cared for and Mazda serviced at the dealer by the previous owner.

Do you have any Check Engine codes or other issues?

 

No check engine light...car still revs high without hesitation... And car still drives pretty good.

so this is not really a hot start issue?

 

It should start in 1 second. Occasionally it might take 3. 5 or 8 is not a healthy amount of time to wait if you're not in the dead of winter. There are many reasons it could happen, that you need to diagnose properly with an OBD reader.

In the meantime, if you don't look forward to replacing catalytic converters and engines, you'll want to get those coils and spark plugs taken care of asap. Don't wait for symptoms, once you have them, it's too late.

 

I agree that its time for plugs, wires, and coils. These are regular maintenance items that must be replaced. At this stage, I wouldn't suspect a bad converter, but its best to replace the ignition components before a weak ignition causes further issues. Also be sure to check your air and cabin filters as well. The air filter to ensure clean air for the engine to breathe in and teh cabin filters for clean air for you to breathe in.

 

Imo, if everything else seems normal, smooth idle, no vibration, no hesitation, no CELs, I'd say bad compression.
The dealer said mine is failing in the 5s, and it starts within a second or 2 when hot.

 

bad ignition or bad compression, like mentioned before you need to change plugs and coils either way, so check if you notice improvement at hot starting after you've done. Bad ignition also causes stumbles at low rpm (around 2k).

 

Thanks for all that replied so far...

the only reason why i think its an ignition related hot start cause its very random like 1 out of 30 times of starting the car hot whet was shut down for 15-30 minutes. So i thought since its almost 60000 miles its probably the plugs or even maybe the almost 5 year old battery.

i read that if you have low compression this is pretty much it happens everytime when engine is hot

on top of that the previous owner got records of regular oil changes and i bought it as certified used from the dealer and supposed to had everything from bumper to bumper and drivetrain checked according to their list.

thats why im asking is this even considered as a hot start issue or maybe just a slightly longer crank start?

but we will see i guess... Ill replace the coils plugs and battery and air filter...

I do have the 13B-MSP s2 still under warranty till Dec 2018 though.

 

Starting the Engine
• Starter
• Battery
• Engine Compression
• Grounding Wires
• Ignition Coils
• Spark Plugs
• Spark Plug Wires
• Fuel Pump
• Fuel Injectors

You need the car's maintenance records to see what was done or not done. Don't just rely on the dealer having looked it over. Do you have rotary engine-specific compression test numbers for your engine. That is critical to really know the health of your engine. Just driving impressions won't tell you enough, especially if this is your first rotary car.

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.

 

Thanks for the reply...

no its not my 1st Rotary Engine car... I used to have a 1990 RX-7 gxl and that car lasted close to 250,000 miles, original engine but went through 2 clutches...but for whatever reason the frame ended up having cracks and its not safe on the road anymore so i ended up junking it...I thought about getting an 1994 RX-7 but way to expensive...

Yeah i shouldve got the compression numbers...but the Mazda compression on the checklist is green so im assuming its good cause once it hits 7's that should be yellow right?

Maybe i just assumed Toyota dealer really made sure the car was good...i mean they had Mazda do all the work to certify its good.

Either way the car only has 57,000 miles right now, so i have to do some proper maintenance and see how it goes...

 

I'd try to see what the actual compression measurement was. Also how it was measured.
As for maintenance, you can get the coils and spark plugs cheaper at NAPA. If you're in this for the long run, consider BHR or other aftermarket coils.

 

Oh yes im in for a long run... I want a daily fun car like with my RX7...honestly i dont see anything close that matches the RX8...explains why i was driving a 2004 Corolla for 5 years then a 2016 Prius for 6 months which I actually traded in to get the RX8 and actually got more cash back in my pocket.

Its just different driving a Rotary car... The closes thing i was considering was an FRS/BRZ...but the cabin felt cheap and clunky and that rear seats are not really usable, compared to the RX8 GT is more comfortable and pleasing...

but yes i plan to have this car the way i did with my RX7

 

Regular maintenance goes a long way in keeping an engine reliable for many years. You may want to read up on premixing and also on the Sohn oil metering pump adapter. Both are alternate ways to add longevity to your engine. The S2 RX-8 isn't as prone to oiling problems as the S1, but it would still be worth reading up on and deciding if either are for you.

 

You have a number of options for coils:
- The Cheapest option: BWD/Intermotor coils from auto parts stores like Advance Auto. 4 coils, 4 plugs, and 4 wires can be had for around $190-220 total based on whatever promotion is running at the time, shipped to your door for free. They are considered to be the first coil revision and you should expect to need to replace them around 20,000 miles, 30,000 miles max. They often come with a "lifetime warranty" by the auto parts store, which could potentially be leveraged for perpetually new coils.

- The Best Upgrade: The BHR ignition coil upgrade can be had for around $500, which eliminates the need to continue replacing coils periodically, as well as deliverying a significantly stronger spark for minor mileage and power gains. It is a proven kit with top notch customer service supporting it. It includes the wires, you still need to add plugs ($80)

- The For-Sure OEM: Mazmart sells all 4 coils of the latest OEM coil revision (C) for around $250, (just the coils, you still need to add plugs and wires) Supported by top notch customer service. They will likely last longer than 30,000 miles, but we don't have much solid data on how long the latest coil revision will last.

- The Most Expensive option: Buying from a dealer will run you around $300+ for the coils, $500+ for coils, wires and plugs, and if you have them do the install, expect to get a bill for anywhere from $700 to $1,800. You may not get the latest coil revision. Yes, you are getting shafted if you take this option, so bring lube.

- The Highest Risk option: Ebay coils continue to pop up as counterfeit, mislabeled, dead on arrival, and have zero post-purchase support largely. They are the "cheapest" listed price, but when you add that $92 or whatever to the price of anything in the list above from having to do it over again, you can see that they are no longer the cheapest option. Do it right the first time. "Motor King" coils are popping up at an attractive price on Ebay, but are being proven as ineffective, to the point of being unable to get the engine fired. "Mazda" branded coils on ebay are almost always counterfeit. Check the seller's name though, since some of our vendors sell legitimate coils there. The price will be $200+ though. Anything sold as "Mazda OEM" under ~$26 per coil should really be considered as suspect and probably counterfeit.

Be wary of "LSx D585 coil upgrades", as not all D585 coils are created the same, and the standard generic D585 coil is not properly designed internally for the RX-8's ignition needs. They generally "work", but there are anomalies and performance issues that have to be solved, if they can be solved. Definitely NOT a plug and play option, even if it is advertised as "plug and play"

GB: SakeBomb Garage IGN-1A Ignition Coil Kit

RX8club's compression test result chart: What was the rpm on the starter? and were your "7s" normalized to sea-level elevation ?
________________________________________

 

So on the mazda compression test that toyota had when i bought the 2010 RX8 GT shows green and I experience some times 5 seconds cranking like 1 out of 30 when engine is hot can it still be a hot start issue?

 

sounds like solid compression to me, nonetheless you really wanna change plugs / coils and get a compression test asap. money wise its like hundreds vs thousands.

 

Didn't know that Toyota had Rotary Specific Compression Testers...

 

All engines, rotary or piston will every so often take extra time to start. My subaru usually starts up in almost instantly, but every couple weeks it will crank for an eternity, before it starts. My subaru, my ford, my mg, and my rx8 all occasionally experience a long start I wouldn't worry about the compression until you have consistent long starting times.

 

Interesting...thanks for that input...Almost all the time RX8 starts right away even when the engine is hot, Just out of random it will start after 5 seconds cranking. But it doesn't seem its having a hard time starting, just longer cranking than usual.


I have had Hot start issues before with my 1990 RX7 GXL but that was when it was at 190,000 miles (and lasted till it was at 251,000 miles) and every time I start the car when engine is hot I can feel its struggling to start back up but it will start.


But that's not the case with the RX8...

 

The Toyota dealer wanted to make sure that the 2010 RX8 GT they got as a trade-in is on good condition and since they have a Mazda dealership across that street they took it there to do the multi point check and engine check since its a Rotary Engine, then it was put back at the Toyota Dealer lot for sale and I showed up the next day to trade my 2016 Prius for it LOL...So I got the RX8 and Cash back in my pocket

 

Jorlanjm sounds good. I think folks here are just hoping that "Mazda dealership checking" included an actual rotary compression test, and not just a cursory check over. I would ask for the rotary compression test numbers. Should be six numbers (one for each face (three) of each of the two rotors) plus the cranking rpm number, all normalized to sea level altitude,