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Short of putting a big fan on the engine Idk what else you could do.
Is it that big of a problem to wait?
When I had those issues I would avoid shutting it down if I needed to drive it within that window.
I only have 1 key for it, so like when going into a convenience store or whatever I had an old Club theft deterrent device I would lock onto the steering wheel while leaving it running.
Your engine is living on borrowed time.
If you're having to wait that long now, it won't be too long before it won't start at all.
Ask me how I know.
🙄
If you can spin it faster it should start faster. Compression builds with speed. If your starter isn't doing spec speed (250-300rpm), you probably want to replace it anyway with a fresh 2.0kw unit, so may as well do it now?
Other than that, push start it to get the rpms up?
If you can spin it faster it should start faster. Compression builds with speed. If your starter isn't doing spec speed (250-300rpm), you probably want to replace it anyway with a fresh 2.0kw unit, so may as well do it now?
Other than that, push start it to get the rpms up?
Supposedly a rotary will run at hiigh enough RPM with seals completely absent. That being 8k RPM plus, so having a fast enough starter provided the engine can maintain sufficient RPMs holds merit.
Always park downhill…on high grade. Problem solved…
Surprised nobody said to just get a new engine yet.
But if you plan to milk a no compression engine for as long as possible I'd suggest:
-upgraded starter (60 or 80$ on amazon)
-sparkplugs (80$)
-new coils
-battery
-mazdaedit or versatune to raise idle and lower fan temps
-replace oil coolers (typically after 60-70kmiles the oil coolers are destroyed by rocks and the fins are all fucked, your rotors+seals are oil cooled. the cooler they are the more compression you have.)
Other tricks
-do a poor mans deflood. Where you hold your gas pedal to the floor to cut fuel, then mid crank drop the gas pedal. You can get a few RPMs extra = more compression
-get a jump starter pack, I have one in each of my Rx8's
-clean your sensors (e-shaft and maf) then do the key on 20 brake stomps till the oil pressure blips.
-push start, rather hard to do alone though
-deep dive into fixing vacuum leaks
In the end you will need a new engine. Soon you will notice the car not able to idle. Having to heel-toe at stoplights in traffic with the chance of having the car die for 30 mins to cool gets a little tedious.
--------------
Anyone have thoughts on going to a thicker oil? Concept would be that on older engines the rotor bearings and e-shaft are worn and if overheating the oil, the oil layer may be thinning out with worn bearings allowing the rotor to resist compression more due to movement.
Surprised nobody said to just get a new engine yet.
But if you plan to milk a no compression engine for as long as possible I'd suggest:
-upgraded starter (60 or 80$ on amazon)
-sparkplugs (80$)
-new coils
-battery
-mazdaedit or versatune to raise idle and lower fan temps
-replace oil coolers (typically after 60-70kmiles the oil coolers are destroyed by rocks and the fins are all fucked, your rotors+seals are oil cooled. the cooler they are the more compression you have.)
Other tricks
-do a poor mans deflood. Where you hold your gas pedal to the floor to cut fuel, then mid crank drop the gas pedal. You can get a few RPMs extra = more compression
-get a jump starter pack, I have one in each of my Rx8's
-clean your sensors (e-shaft and maf) then do the key on 20 brake stomps till the oil pressure blips.
-push start, rather hard to do alone though
-deep dive into fixing vacuum leaks
In the end you will need a new engine. Soon you will notice the car not able to idle. Having to heel-toe at stoplights in traffic with the chance of having the car die for 30 mins to cool gets a little tedious.
--------------
Anyone have thoughts on going to a thicker oil? Concept would be that on older engines the rotor bearings and e-shaft are worn and if overheating the oil, the oil layer may be thinning out with worn bearings allowing the rotor to resist compression more due to movement.
It was mentioned in another post to get a new engine :D. Supposedly the engine has Atkins seals in it and he is trying to delay the inevitable.
I don’t think the oil thing really pans out. Inadequate apex/side seals are actually going to be less restrictive on motion of the rotor. An engine with factory spec compression is going to have the seals tight on the housing and the air confined. Think if there are no seals then the rotor will spin with less resistance because there is less air to rotate around and compress to impede its rotation along with no friction at the rotor tips, but in the flip side no power made because everything leaks past the seals into the adjacent sections.
Otherwise good suggestions - a good starter and tune. But he should really start saving money…. Maybe some links to how to pull out the engine if he is mechanically inclined might be a better use of time.
it’s too bad people find this forum after buying the cars, especially since they are all used. Of course a compression test before buying is always warranted these days. Then at least he could have negotiated a better price/walked away/bought a different one.
10-25-2022, 04:00 PM
