Colo_lady1

My car would have speed for 10sec when you first start it and then would bog down every time you take off it would go real slow. I have changed the coil packs, sparkplug wires,filters , Catholic converters, o2sensor,oil, and gas cap.the code comes up o2sensor cat,and evac can any one tell me where the evac is or what is wrong with. It thanks Colo_lady1

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Sounds like it may be in limp mode. The oil metering pump is the most likely to do that without a CEL

To check if it is in limp mode.... reset the ecu. Take off the rubber corrugated intake tube....and see if the throttle plate opens normally with just the key on. Start the car and let it run for 10-15 sec. If the throttle stops opening normally then it has gone into limp mode.

The other thing to check is the coolant temp sensor. Is the coolant temp wrong on the dash?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Catholic converters eh?
Can you post the actual codes (like P0301)? Evac is not a code and there are multiple possible evap system codes.

When you bought the car did you get a compression test? Do you have the recent service history of the car?

Colo_lady1

yes it went into limp mode where is the coal canister is located and how do i check it

CelestialGryphon

iTrader: (1)

A service history would be useful. This didn't happen to be the Green 04 in Parker, Colorado, was it?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

I suggest you answer the questions with as much info as possible. Otherwise it's difficult to help. Have Mazda look at it, some rotary - specific codes, like the one for the OMP don't showup on some readers. It's not your charcoal canister, that's not a thing that can trigger limp mode.

Colo_lady1

no it wasnt i bought it from my son

Colo_lady1

how do i get to the oil metering pump to check the wires ?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

It's on the passenger side of the engine, toward the front. If you remove the battery tray, the OMP is directly under there. Or from under the car.

Do you know when this condition first started and if there had been any collisions or period of long sitting in an area with rodents who could have chewed on the wires? Again, the more detail the better this forum can help.

Colo_lady1

Yes it has been sitting for a couple years and when i drove it it ran fine the next day i drove it it was fine i came to a stop sign took off it took off ok then all of a sudden it lost power. That what i think might have happen is mice chewed on some wires,that what i want to check.

Nisaja

She said it starts fine and goes fine. But after a while it bogs down. Code is for the cat converter.
Ring a bell?

I bet the cat is clogged!

OP, check the cat. Might wanna take it in to a shop and get it inspected. If it's blocked, gut it. Cheap and easy fix.

gwilliams6

Follow the good advice of the posters above and ask your son about the car's maintenance history. here is what needs to be looked at for any used RX8 to be in the best health. Don't let the list overwhelm you, not all things may need to be done now, depending on your mileage, but just checked off if your son kept up the maintenance.

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________

Colo_lady1

Ok i got to the omp i found a blue wire broke my problem is the wire broke close to the plug do i have to buy a new pump or can i soder a piece of wire to it

Loki

iTrader: (1)

A new pump is expensive, though you could try to find a used one. I'd definitely give soldering a shot first.

Colo_lady1

Thank you for all your help i will give soldering a try first ,wasnt sure if it can be done.

Colo_lady1

I solder the wire and it work,my car is running fine Thank for all the help

Colo_lady1

i need help need to know how to reset engine light

Colo_lady1

can you tell me how to reset engine lite

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

if the problem is fixed disconnecting the battery should clean the cel

Loki

iTrader: (1)

A check engine code reader should be able to read and clear it. May as well take note of what the code was, in case there are other problems. Autozone and the like can usually do this for free.