I just bought an rx-8 thats sat up for years where to start???
#26
#27
Registered
Its really simple as mentioned above. There is a power wire in the harness above (under you driver side rear seat) that should see voltage (12 volts) when you turn the key on and it would prime. I can give you the exact wire color that this is when I get home and look at my electrical manual.
Take the connector off the fuel pump assembly in the picture above, use a $10 multi-meter, hook the red to the lead wire and the black lead to a ground point. Make sure you are in DC voltage mode on the meter.
Have some go key on while you are holding the probes to the wire/ground and see if you have voltage. Should be 0 with key off, and ~12 volts with key on for the first second or so when the pump would prime.
If that wire does not get voltage then its likely a fuse, wire, relay problem.
If the wire does get voltage, its 99% your fuel pump (can't imagine the wiring inside the pump assembly went bad).
This should take no more than 3 minutes to confirm. You shouldn't really need to artificially put power to the pump to diagnose unless you suspect both pump and wiring went bad at the exact same time.
Take the connector off the fuel pump assembly in the picture above, use a $10 multi-meter, hook the red to the lead wire and the black lead to a ground point. Make sure you are in DC voltage mode on the meter.
Have some go key on while you are holding the probes to the wire/ground and see if you have voltage. Should be 0 with key off, and ~12 volts with key on for the first second or so when the pump would prime.
If that wire does not get voltage then its likely a fuse, wire, relay problem.
If the wire does get voltage, its 99% your fuel pump (can't imagine the wiring inside the pump assembly went bad).
This should take no more than 3 minutes to confirm. You shouldn't really need to artificially put power to the pump to diagnose unless you suspect both pump and wiring went bad at the exact same time.
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strokercharged95gt (03-28-2020)
#29
Its really simple as mentioned above. There is a power wire in the harness above (under you driver side rear seat) that should see voltage (12 volts) when you turn the key on and it would prime. I can give you the exact wire color that this is when I get home and look at my electrical manual.
Take the connector off the fuel pump assembly in the picture above, use a $10 multi-meter, hook the red to the lead wire and the black lead to a ground point. Make sure you are in DC voltage mode on the meter.
Have some go key on while you are holding the probes to the wire/ground and see if you have voltage. Should be 0 with key off, and ~12 volts with key on for the first second or so when the pump would prime.
If that wire does not get voltage then its likely a fuse, wire, relay problem.
If the wire does get voltage, its 99% your fuel pump (can't imagine the wiring inside the pump assembly went bad).
This should take no more than 3 minutes to confirm. You shouldn't really need to artificially put power to the pump to diagnose unless you suspect both pump and wiring went bad at the exact same time.
Take the connector off the fuel pump assembly in the picture above, use a $10 multi-meter, hook the red to the lead wire and the black lead to a ground point. Make sure you are in DC voltage mode on the meter.
Have some go key on while you are holding the probes to the wire/ground and see if you have voltage. Should be 0 with key off, and ~12 volts with key on for the first second or so when the pump would prime.
If that wire does not get voltage then its likely a fuse, wire, relay problem.
If the wire does get voltage, its 99% your fuel pump (can't imagine the wiring inside the pump assembly went bad).
This should take no more than 3 minutes to confirm. You shouldn't really need to artificially put power to the pump to diagnose unless you suspect both pump and wiring went bad at the exact same time.
#30
Well guys. How crazy but I think I found the reason
well good news is I get a free pump this might be a blessing in disguise cause if the pump is the only thing stopping the car from starting ,once they change it I can pay for the compression test while it's there and then know the life of my engine! Hopefully this all works out smoothly just pray for me
well good news is I get a free pump this might be a blessing in disguise cause if the pump is the only thing stopping the car from starting ,once they change it I can pay for the compression test while it's there and then know the life of my engine! Hopefully this all works out smoothly just pray for me
#31
Registered
Mazda will replace the pump? That's pretty good of them to do. If the car is able to be started then a compression test can be done. Good luck, hopefully your numbers are up to minimum spec at least.
#33
Well here's what I did , went on to mazdarecallinfo.com typed in my Vin and I had 3 open recalls one was for the fuel pump I feel that's just a lucky sign cause honestly nothing else makes sense guys the fuel pump just has to be the cause of this no start or maybe the ssv or the sensors. Either way I'm at wits end and will probably need a new fuel pump assembly anyway and I read a few post and some club members confirmed mazda is replacing the WHOLE assembly and I have that open recall on my Vin so I see no reason why they wouldn't confirm it, the website allowed me to set an appointment for it! I will call them tho just to discuss the details with them as I have to let them know my car will be towed in lol but my insurance will cover that
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CaymanRotary (04-01-2020)
#35
Yea I spoke with the service writer they said they will replace whatever needs to be replaced be it the whole assembly or just the housing or whatever it is they just have to inspect it first but the whole assembly is covered under the recall they just won't replace the whole thing if the whole thing isn't broken. I set my appointment just cross my fingers that this all works out how I want it to
#37
So I'm not new to the scene just new to ownership. I have been watching YouTube vids and reading thru forums for about 2-3 years before finally pulling the trigger on one. I went through several different options from finding them at out of state dealers debating about financing one just to get the newer generation engine with a little less problems or just going ahead and buying a project car knowing I would have to probably rebuild or replace the engine sooner then I would like. But I actually got lucky enough that my neighbor (technically lives on the street directly behind me but we share back yards) has an RX-8 that he's owned since about 2014 and he parked it in about 2016 or so due to what he said was flooding and some clutch issues. It's a 2005 Manual grand Touring edition has nav heated the seats car is beautiful besides the fact it has 3 year old dirt on the paint, a little roof fade from the sun and the interior could use a little TLC but I really love this car and I'm ready to do whatever it takes to get it on the road. Like I said I've read alot of the "Begin here for New owners" and "common problem" threads but I actually had to create an account so I can make a post to get help specifically on my problems because since this is my first 8 and although I have friends that can assist me with there mechanical knowledge I'm not the biggest connoisseur of motors or cars period so I feel as if I need as much help as I can get. Like I said being as that the car sat a while I know there's maintenance just for that but with that the engine is flooded and clutch assembly needs to be replaced all things possible to do but how do I know that's all that has to be done? How do I know if the guy has just sold me an all around dud with a motor that was already doomed from the start? Even if I have to drop a whole new engine in the car to get it running it's not an no way a lost because I got it for dirt cheap and want it bad enough I'm willing to do that but I'll cross that bridge when I get there (don't say if cause all 8 motors need some type of rebuild/replace eventually) but just to be clear the owner only told me of a flooded engine and clutch assembly but I really want to try and service all possible problems or atleast touch on the potential new ones I can encounter to be prepared my biggest question is WHERE TO START!!!???
https://www.aaroncake.net/RX-7/unstore.htm
#38
So the day has come had to hold off spending on it because of this Corona bull crap but I finally got her up in the air so I can give her a good deep clean bathe the rims and change the tires rotors brake pads oil and coolant all before shipping her off to Mazda for the recall repairs on the 21'st. Currently in search of dash cover and steering wheel before I go also because the sun damaged mine and seeing as they have to remove both to change both air bags figure I could sneak them swapping the dash cover and wheel free of charge for me if I provide the parts lol
#39
Well ladies and gents it's a few months later , new engine oil, coolant flush, new trans oil, brand new rotors , 4 new tires had to change 2 calipers , new spark plugs the wires and coil packs, new battery posts and wires and new battery!!!! Starter remanufactured, and here we are!!! These are the official numbers boys!!! At the Mazda dealer as we speak!
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CaymanRotary (06-16-2020)
#41
Registered
Well ladies and gents it's a few months later , new engine oil, coolant flush, new trans oil, brand new rotors , 4 new tires had to change 2 calipers , new spark plugs the wires and coil packs, new battery posts and wires and new battery!!!! Starter remanufactured, and here we are!!! These are the official numbers boys!!! At the Mazda dealer as we speak!
#42
Thanks!!! Very excited to pick it up!! But yes the whole pump was covered under recall !! They tried to charge me $600 for a starter 🤣🤣 but I just picked my old one up and brought it to a shop to be remaned cost me $100
#43
Registered
Yea $600 is ridiculous for a starter. I think I paid under $100 for a brand new aftermarket 2kw starter. Good move, the dealer you need to watch because some of the prices for certain things are outrageous.
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