dizcobeat

I dont know if i killed the car. everything ive been doing was to better the car. I changed oil,filter,plugs,coils,ssv valve and selinoid,new battery, new battery connectors,mid pipe,fuel pump. the car was getting better i even got a new starter. But i could not get it started again it just died.I think my issue started with midpipe as i noticed the o2 sensor was frayed and now the fuel pump was priming so i went and bought a new one. did i ruin the engine I never got any cel lights refffering to o2 sensor or any issues. all codes were addressed fixed and cleared. If i get a new o2 sensor how can it relay to the ecm that the fuel pump should start up. I dont know. any suggestions on how to bring it back would help greatly. I have researched and have been going thru threads. cant find this exact issue. thank you.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

There's a lot here, so let's start from the top. What is the actual problem? Does the car not start? Does it try to start? If so have you deflooded it?

What is the history of the car? When did the issues begin?

dizcobeat

Hi. There is alot sorry. It cranks but its not a solid crank like it use to. thats when i noticed the pump wasnt working. this started after like a week ago. it just stopped and wouldnt start. I thought it was flooded as well and tried a few times the de-flooding steps to no avail. it seems like its weakaning the battery. I had to take the new battery back to autozone to recharge. I noticed that the o2 sensor wires had looked bad when i was installing new plugs (i changed plugs only 2 months ago. I figured the o2 sensor may have been reading wrong there for the pump may have stopped due to this. if it just got fuel i think it would start up. I just purchased a new sensor. and putting it on.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Ok, so a few things:
- the O2 sensor isn't used during start up, it needs to heat up first. Are we talking about the front or rear O2? The rear won't affect running at all, the front could be problematic but it should still start.
- slow cranking due to a weakening battery can definitely cause starting issues, and trying to deflood will drain the battery, so you definitely need access to a charger to keep it topped up between deflood attempts
- you replaced the pump already? Are all the fuses under the hood and in the driver's footwell OK?
- is there fuel on the spark plugs? If it is, clean them off and continue deflooding.
- you can try disconnecting the fuel line in the engine bay to confirm if the fuel pump is running. Obviously be careful, it will gush fuel. A fuel pressure gauge might be better.

dizcobeat

Thanks;
Ok all fuses are fine i checked with multi meter I have not checked the cabin floor ones (ill do that now) Fuel pump is new and installed. I tested the harness for juice and it is sending (just not sure how much) and its the second o2 sensor. since i installed mid pipe that was the only one i messed around with.

dizcobeat

im heading to autozone see if i cant rent a charger or I have a 2nd Battery i could charge up its bigger im wondering if i cant use that as an charging source.////Im gonna look up both of these. thank you. I just know if it just turned over id be in great shape as i havent even gotten to feel the start with the new 2kw starter.

dizcobeat

oh and there is no fuel on the spark plugs. i tried deflooding prior and when i changed them a few days ago no fuel. I checked again and no fuel on plugs. i keep rereading your steps and checking along the way. really appreciate your help

Loki

iTrader: (1)

A battery charger is like $20, you can probably save a few headaches that way. Not sure about hooking up 2 batteries.
So if there's no fuel, but the pump is getting current, is your timing OK? Is the ESS connected? It's common to disconnect it when trying to deflood, perhaps earlier troubleshooting left it unplugged? When you try to crank does the tachometer come alive at all? It should budge a bit off 0 if there's a timing signal.

dizcobeat

i ordered from amazon a charger. nice one 39.00 will be here tomorow. I cant even crank now the battery is so dead i turn the key and rapid clicks.....I will check the tacometor as well tomorrow. i will keep you posted my friend.....thx

dizcobeat

i think i was doing the deflood all wrong so many people have different ways....i forgot to mention i have an A/T

dizcobeat

oK i had a friend come by and then asked if they wouldnt mind jump me...so they said no problem....we actually sat on the grass and realized after half hour her car was still charging mines. well I tried to start and same thing. Crank but no start. I will do a full afternoon focus on deflodding as i will have charger.
QUESTION: if the car was flooded why would if just stop while we was driving (this was initial start of car issue) I looked around and didnt see flooding while driving.
\
Thanks LOKI....ALOHA FOR NOW

dizcobeat

ill be doing an intense de flooding. but since i have a 2005 A/T which of these two methods would you recomend.

1.
is gas pedal to the floor, crank 3 times for 5 seconds, with 10 -15 seconds between cranks to cool down the starter motor. If flood is severe (because you've attempted to start it many times), do 3 sets of 3 with a minute between them. On last attempt, start cranking with gas pedal to the floor but release slowly as you crank and if it starts to catch modulate the throttle to help it.

2.disconnect the front sensor beside the main pulley the ESS , remove the two bottom plugs, hold gas pedal to the floor, and crank for 15 seconds then wait 30 seconds do that 5x after that reconnect ESS and plugs and try starting without touching gas pedal

Loki

iTrader: (1)

It won't flood while running and warmed up, but if you stall the car while cold, for example, trying to restart it could flood it.
Obviously none of this should happen on a healthy car, but, ya know.

The first method will get you running 90% of the time, it just takes longer than you'd think. You can start with doing #2 once and continuing with #1, so you're not constantly connecting and disconnecting the plugs.

dizcobeat

yeah i like the 1st one...actually i was going thread after thread...and i seen this its yours...lol. ok i have to say to no avail did it work i have been doing it over and over. I actually pulled the relays ignition,fuel, and i have a multimeter and made a power supply i have been on youtube trying to understand bad or goood...it looks like my relay for my fuel pump is not good. but again im still trying to understand and make sure i powering the right pins and i have a test light as well. so im working on that at this moment. But i have always made sure when i start that car even to move it warm . I have really was happy to have it pass emmisions, and after that i went for it on making it better. And thanks for recomending the charger. i wont be making trips to autozone for charging. i do have a question since im new to this relay stuff. if there are no OEM relays at alll the auto stores in my area is buying one that has the same schematics allowable? ( I will keep you posted on what eventually works. as it may not even be these relays...although im hoping.

dizcobeat

oh another thing i did take a few of the steps you recomended and one of them was no fuel from hood area. dry as a bone...and another is all the fuses inside are working ......thanks buddy

dizcobeat

ok i put in new sensors ignition and fuel. still same thing. I sprayed some starter fuel in the manifold and it tunred over. I dont know what i should do next as i replaced with a new pump.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

There's a resistor pack in the fuel pump circuit, it's there to slow the pump down at idle to keep things quieter, but go to full speed when not at idle. Possible it has gone bad or the circuit is broken there? It looks roughly like this, its under the hood:
https://picclick.co.uk/Mazda-Rx8-Fue...673414351.html

dizcobeat

I was just reading about that thing. I got confused cause somehow i got onto the rx7 site and figured its on on the rx8. I will check that now. Thank you

dizcobeat

if it comes down to this being a possible issue. the resistor. lis they a by pass if any you recomend?

dizcobeat

nada stil the same. I actually looked for that low leve meteal thing and i dont have one....i looked every where. i may have to bite the bullet and have an auto electrician out here...any more suggestions.......wahhhhhh

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Do you have a multimeter to test if there fuel pump connector has voltage at all?

dizcobeat

yes i have a multi meter. i did stick light meter and it came on. But i will follow instructions on youtube to check correct voltage coming out of plug to fuel pump. thanks very much...that coud definatly keep me on a road to recovery of this issue...oh I ordered a used resistor off Ebay.. i think mines must be hidden behind lower manifold...i gotta have one.

when sun comes up i will hopefully figure voltage on fuel pump input...THANKS AGAIN...you have been a great source....ill let you know my findings...

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

Fuel pressure is the thing to check....

You can buy an adapter that fits at the hard fuel line /connector interface or just unplug it and use a bit of hose that fits over the roughly 5/16 hard line

Make sure you check all of the things you have changed for proper connections

It's one of the reasons I recommend doing a lot if testing before you start changing anything. Especially with non-OEM or used parts that may or may not work

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Did not see that coming, but glad you found it!

dizcobeat

Loki its sorta a false alarm it does prime up the pump...but its not right and I think you hit the nail on the head.. THE RESISTOR. i thought i didnt have one and i looked and looked as thats the low level fuel output well i found it stuffed behind some insulation loose as a goose. so i jumped the gun but gonna test the RESISTOR. so ill let you know.