dizcobeat

loki i had to finally call someone out and do a whole electrical test. it seems the ecu is shot. i ordered an exact to the letter used one the guys that found the issue said they would come back to flash it additinal 40.00 i bout a used perfect fit from ebay used; what needs to be done for it to work properly. and what is it that i read some people pump the break 20 to set it ?

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Okay. I dunno how much I buy that, ECUs don't die like that. Did they offer any more details? What happens if that doesn't fix it?
You can google the 20 brake stomp thing.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

I agree.... I've seen the grand total of one ECU failure in an 8. That person jumped the car to the alternator backwards..

Lots of reversed battery cable boosts that just blew the main fuse.

If you do need a new one you need to program it with "as built" data so the CAN modules will communicate with each other.

I would be very doubtful your ECU died unless it got wet and shorted out or something catastrophic like that

dizcobeat

I am so at a loss now...I think you guys was right. I had the ECU replace the guys came back again and said something about the EVAP system..well that hasnt been in the car since i had it. I had another mechanic out prior and he did alot as well. I did so much on my own...i dont know what else i can do.

dizcobeat

what else could be causeing the system to not power the fule pump......??? one guy said he would do that but for some reason it would work..but he did put power to the pump and it worked....

Loki

iTrader: (1)

I don't follow. You said earlier it was priming and starting, and that you found a damaged connection at the fuse box? If it's priming and starting but not getting enough fuel to go anywhere, then its the resistor pack or the connection to it.

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

First thing to do is to stop putting new parts on it and start to do proper diagnosis to figure out what is wrong. If you can't do it yourself you will have to find someone that can do it properly for you. Seems so far that hasn't been the case.

Maybe yell us as clearly as you can whats happening now.... and we can go from there

dizcobeat

ive replace most of my own stuf fom here...but when the ecu was sending a signal the guy prior said he wasnt sure but not to get one thiese two clowns said i found your iss bad pcm well install it and coded per mazda stuff. well hour later they tell me cause of the evap capped its degradig the moter . and it needsw it. and with time yur enjpine will be peanut butter.

i told them for 200 you made me go and get a ecu i waited 3 days and you couldnt do it. they then handed me the keys and said i should take it to mazada. well i didnt try the car til this am IT FLASHES KEY SYMBAL ( it cracnked but now start and since they left no craank just a blinking red key and more lights than the baby jeseus was on. ) writing them a letter and telling them to put back and i would like a refund cause your diagnosise cost m5 days and you both was it will work but now wont crank. key fob is now mismatchedll

dizcobeat

I thought it ws the fuel pump so i changed it, and it wasnt and yes i chabged plugs starter 2kw. beside all that one mchanic took his time and he powered the pump buy battery but not permanant. and its started. so he wes testy ecu and said the fuel pump is sending signal but its not reaching the pump. . i ididnt want to mess with electricity so i called these young full test every thing in 32 min they said your culprit is your ecu. so i send for one ,, now they said they programed key a red key comes up and it wont even crani 0r start. they said well the evap is remvoed and that can destory an engine. they will come back and put it back to orig.

dizcobeat

and i want my refund

dizcobeat

i have been dealing with my own diy for months and it was getiing better i didnt care about the gas or pre mix. i checked oil i still hav to flush coooling system , car noes id;es as o put the arm in and solonoid. 2 kw starter, never got to use it. never stalls . this

dizcobeat

car has new ecu, but a red key flashes and it wont crank like it use to, just cluster ligts but no crank. i always start it without touching gas. i could do the fuel flood. but to me doesnt look like the car wont read the key he programed. i bought 2 of the low end res8st9rs ahd all work

dannobre

iTrader: (3)

It has to have the keys programmed as part of the process so the Imobilozer will allow it to start.

Program the keys and try again.

Personally I would put the old ECU back in and try to trouble shoot the pump wiring....

dizcobeat

Danobre I did just that. I put the original ecu back and willl be taking loki's advice and stop buying things. I bought 2 resistors but the one in the car is fine. I am returning them all.
Now Loki my appologies. Im jumping all around and when I seen that adding power to the fuel pump it engaged big time. but it was just testing the pump. let me just go forward and explain where I am at.
I had a new ECU put in the guys came over to flash it and put mazda stuff on it. then told me a cockamamy story on my evap. well. they said they flashed my key to the new ECU well after they left an hour later i went down to turn it on and at first every light on the dash was on i never seen so many icons. and it did not crank like it usually did. So I went down again to take picture and all that comes on now is a red car with a blinking key inside of it and thats it. They never have returned my calls and or sent me the read outs . I am now gonna go forward and what i did was Dannobre idea and I went and put my old ECU back in and it says the same exact thing Red light with car and Key blinking. I assume the key I had that went with it they flashed it and it wont work with my car any longer. Although my fob still works it will lock dooor and open trunk (thing is the original key broke off so its just the fob part) and the key i use was done by a lock smith a while back when i broke it. Now I connected all the ECU and Resistors back and spray them with computer contact cleaner ( they dried out for 20mins while i was cleaning putting in new air filter I had. I connected them then went to the inside cabin and did FUSE checks i turn the key to 1st position and tested but 2 and 4 was blown i put it in 2 times 2 new ones. and in the cabin just the 3 head / head low/head high dont work. i never replaced them. I have to buy some more 15a. . and when i reinstalled my orig ecu it says the same. Thank you for your guys input.

dizcobeat

p.s. the 2 fuse in cabin dont work and i changed them twice.

dizcobeat

im charging battery and will go down tomorrow to try and get it out of the imobilizor mode. reading up on it now.

dizcobeat

hey guys...
i have the original ECU in and key is programed to it. When installing the ECU i used computer contact spray to clean the ends and then I go to turn the key it is a labored crank no start but i can hear the fuel pump engaging and when i turn it off i can still hear the pump and the fan in the engine. I checked all cabin fueses and they are good now and I also obd scanned and came out with a cel P2112 Im gonna research that. but now im wondering if anyone has any input where should i focus next. maybe fuel pressue?

dizcobeat

was going through information on this feed and i i will try what Dannobre suggesting and check fuel pressure....thank you...anything else would be great.....