I think I overtorqued my flywheel
07-09-2019, 05:28 PM
#1
I think I overtorqued my flywheel
e shaft bolt was most likely way to tight. I hammered at it for 10 minutes with impact until it broke loose and the flywheel spins with almost no effort.
I cannot spin my flywheel after tightening it down. I don't know if this is normal or not as this is my first rebuild.
To be clear I don't know if I torqued it to 290 or 300 because I have no way of knowing.
I used a heavy duty torque drill at my dads work. He works on big rigs when hes not trucking and they got some heavy duty tools.
I am thinking this torque drill overtorqued the flywheel. No issues other than I cant spin the flywheel by hand or with a socket on the other end where the pullys are.
EDIT:
It spun before I tightened the flywheel.
Also this torque drill was huge its not like your everyday torque drill lol which is why im seriously wondering if i didn't over tighten this the bolt isn't stripped or anything like that it wont even budge.
They use this drill for diesel trucks. But i never heard of something like this happening before. To me it looks like the flywheel helps sucks the engine together like the 18 bolts.
I cannot spin my flywheel after tightening it down. I don't know if this is normal or not as this is my first rebuild.
To be clear I don't know if I torqued it to 290 or 300 because I have no way of knowing.
I used a heavy duty torque drill at my dads work. He works on big rigs when hes not trucking and they got some heavy duty tools.
I am thinking this torque drill overtorqued the flywheel. No issues other than I cant spin the flywheel by hand or with a socket on the other end where the pullys are.
EDIT:
It spun before I tightened the flywheel.
Also this torque drill was huge its not like your everyday torque drill lol which is why im seriously wondering if i didn't over tighten this the bolt isn't stripped or anything like that it wont even budge.
They use this drill for diesel trucks. But i never heard of something like this happening before. To me it looks like the flywheel helps sucks the engine together like the 18 bolts.
Last edited by RX8Brad; 07-09-2019 at 06:52 PM.
07-09-2019, 05:39 PM
#4
the rotors,housing,e-shaft,etc its all the same as it was when it was running.
I spun a bearing but just decided to change all those for good measure.
Everything else was in good shape.
So would end play matter?
I really think I over torqued it because they put big rig flywheels on with this drill so it has some power.
07-09-2019, 06:01 PM
#6
Many flywheel nuts on commercial truck engines get torqued down around the 200 range, some close to 300.
The flywheel nut on many rotaries, including our Renesis engine, is 350 lbs. So I'd feel pretty confident in saying that the method used to install it was not too overkill. Can you find out what the tool is rated for?
Something is causing your rotating assembly to bind up. Foreign object, improper clearances, something. I HIGHLY advise against trying to force anything. It should not be very difficult at all to make the assembly rotate.
Start by checking the endplay.
From there if the assembly wont rotate, remove the front cover and remove the oil pump chain. Will it rotate now? If so, theres likely debris in the oil pump. Did you remove and inspect the oil pump after the issue with your bearing? If it still wont rotate, lets go to the next step.
Disassemble the "front stack" while closely observing placement of all the components prior to removal (to ensure they are in the correct order and placed properly) and inspect their condition as each component is removed. Now check if the system will rotate. If it does, look around to find out why. Did a bearing fall out of place and "clearance out" the endplay? If all the components are acceptable and nothing was out of place, and if you still cannot move the rotating assembly in and out along the axis of rotation, something is binding internally and you should open it to see whats going on.
You spun a bearing but reused the eshaft, was the eshaft not damaged? Did you have it inspected to make sure it was "true"?
Follow those steps, and if possible take pictures to upload to us so we can visually follow along as well and hopefully help resolve the issue quickly.
-Ricky
The flywheel nut on many rotaries, including our Renesis engine, is 350 lbs. So I'd feel pretty confident in saying that the method used to install it was not too overkill. Can you find out what the tool is rated for?
Something is causing your rotating assembly to bind up. Foreign object, improper clearances, something. I HIGHLY advise against trying to force anything. It should not be very difficult at all to make the assembly rotate.
Start by checking the endplay.
From there if the assembly wont rotate, remove the front cover and remove the oil pump chain. Will it rotate now? If so, theres likely debris in the oil pump. Did you remove and inspect the oil pump after the issue with your bearing? If it still wont rotate, lets go to the next step.
Disassemble the "front stack" while closely observing placement of all the components prior to removal (to ensure they are in the correct order and placed properly) and inspect their condition as each component is removed. Now check if the system will rotate. If it does, look around to find out why. Did a bearing fall out of place and "clearance out" the endplay? If all the components are acceptable and nothing was out of place, and if you still cannot move the rotating assembly in and out along the axis of rotation, something is binding internally and you should open it to see whats going on.
You spun a bearing but reused the eshaft, was the eshaft not damaged? Did you have it inspected to make sure it was "true"?
Follow those steps, and if possible take pictures to upload to us so we can visually follow along as well and hopefully help resolve the issue quickly.
-Ricky
07-09-2019, 06:10 PM
#7
Many flywheel nuts on commercial truck engines get torqued down around the 200 range, some close to 300.
The flywheel nut on many rotaries, including our Renesis engine, is 350 lbs. So I'd feel pretty confident in saying that the method used to install it was not too overkill. Can you find out what the tool is rated for?
Something is causing your rotating assembly to bind up. Foreign object, improper clearances, something. I HIGHLY advise against trying to force anything. It should not be very difficult at all to make the assembly rotate.
Start by checking the endplay.
From there if the assembly wont rotate, remove the front cover and remove the oil pump chain. Will it rotate now? If so, theres likely debris in the oil pump. Did you remove and inspect the oil pump after the issue with your bearing? If it still wont rotate, lets go to the next step.
Disassemble the "front stack" while closely observing placement of all the components prior to removal (to ensure they are in the correct order and placed properly) and inspect their condition as each component is removed. Now check if the system will rotate. If it does, look around to find out why. Did a bearing fall out of place and "clearance out" the endplay? If all the components are acceptable and nothing was out of place, and if you still cannot move the rotating assembly in and out along the axis of rotation, something is binding internally and you should open it to see whats going on.
You spun a bearing but reused the eshaft, was the eshaft not damaged? Did you have it inspected to make sure it was "true"?
Follow those steps, and if possible take pictures to upload to us so we can visually follow along as well and hopefully help resolve the issue quickly.
-Ricky
The flywheel nut on many rotaries, including our Renesis engine, is 350 lbs. So I'd feel pretty confident in saying that the method used to install it was not too overkill. Can you find out what the tool is rated for?
Something is causing your rotating assembly to bind up. Foreign object, improper clearances, something. I HIGHLY advise against trying to force anything. It should not be very difficult at all to make the assembly rotate.
Start by checking the endplay.
From there if the assembly wont rotate, remove the front cover and remove the oil pump chain. Will it rotate now? If so, theres likely debris in the oil pump. Did you remove and inspect the oil pump after the issue with your bearing? If it still wont rotate, lets go to the next step.
Disassemble the "front stack" while closely observing placement of all the components prior to removal (to ensure they are in the correct order and placed properly) and inspect their condition as each component is removed. Now check if the system will rotate. If it does, look around to find out why. Did a bearing fall out of place and "clearance out" the endplay? If all the components are acceptable and nothing was out of place, and if you still cannot move the rotating assembly in and out along the axis of rotation, something is binding internally and you should open it to see whats going on.
You spun a bearing but reused the eshaft, was the eshaft not damaged? Did you have it inspected to make sure it was "true"?
Follow those steps, and if possible take pictures to upload to us so we can visually follow along as well and hopefully help resolve the issue quickly.
-Ricky
I will remove the front cover and check all the oil stuff again.
Will I have to take the flywheel off to do this?
Also im not 100% sure what the impact was rated im thinking 1600
1400 ft-lbs nut busting from a milwaukee
Last edited by RX8Brad; 07-09-2019 at 06:16 PM.
07-09-2019, 06:18 PM
#8
Registered
^^^
What Xero said...
Proper rotation is determined by proper shaft "play". Proper shaft "play"is determined both by proper components AND assembly. Since in your case all components are the same... its likely an assembly issue causing the binding.
As Xero explains... you'll need to carefully reverse assembly until you find the source of binding.
Good luck.
What Xero said...
Proper rotation is determined by proper shaft "play". Proper shaft "play"is determined both by proper components AND assembly. Since in your case all components are the same... its likely an assembly issue causing the binding.
As Xero explains... you'll need to carefully reverse assembly until you find the source of binding.
Good luck.
07-09-2019, 06:19 PM
#9
What am I doing here?
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Stupid question: how did you lock the flywheel when tightening the nut?
Stupider question: Did you remove whatever you used to lock the flywheel after you were done?
Also, the advertised torque ratings for impact guns are universally bullshit. Not only that, many bias torque to be higher in CCW (normal removal direction for right-hand thread fastener). Also, if this is a pneumatic impact, it will be heavily dependent on whether you have a compressor that worth a damn (because the ratings on the consumer models are complete bullshit as well).
Stupider question: Did you remove whatever you used to lock the flywheel after you were done?
Also, the advertised torque ratings for impact guns are universally bullshit. Not only that, many bias torque to be higher in CCW (normal removal direction for right-hand thread fastener). Also, if this is a pneumatic impact, it will be heavily dependent on whether you have a compressor that worth a damn (because the ratings on the consumer models are complete bullshit as well).
Last edited by NotAPreppie; 07-09-2019 at 06:31 PM.
07-09-2019, 06:27 PM
#10
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NotAPreppie (07-10-2019)
07-09-2019, 06:51 PM
#12
So I sit up at my garage hammering away at the e shaft bolt for like 10 minutes until it came loose. The flywheel spins now. I think the e shaft bolt was way over torqued as it will spin now.
07-09-2019, 07:02 PM
#13
Which bolt exactly are you talking about? The front bolt or the rear flywheel nut? Depending which you are talking about could indicate an issue.
Also, it would still be worth inspecting everything I mentioned as there could be a serious reason why it wouldn't rotate still. The motor is now not truly completely assembled, so that doesn't mean everything else is good. Its worth double checking now while the motor is out rather than have to pull it again
Also, it would still be worth inspecting everything I mentioned as there could be a serious reason why it wouldn't rotate still. The motor is now not truly completely assembled, so that doesn't mean everything else is good. Its worth double checking now while the motor is out rather than have to pull it again
07-09-2019, 07:05 PM
#14
Which bolt exactly are you talking about? The front bolt or the rear flywheel nut? Depending which you are talking about could indicate an issue.
Also, it would still be worth inspecting everything I mentioned as there could be a serious reason why it wouldn't rotate still. The motor is now not truly completely assembled, so that doesn't mean everything else is good. Its worth double checking now while the motor is out rather than have to pull it again
Also, it would still be worth inspecting everything I mentioned as there could be a serious reason why it wouldn't rotate still. The motor is now not truly completely assembled, so that doesn't mean everything else is good. Its worth double checking now while the motor is out rather than have to pull it again
I put the bolt back on at correct torque and it spins freely.
I think when I had them torque th flywheel they also torqued the front bolt as well and way over torqued it. Everything looks fine now. Also the bolt im talking about is the one where u put the thermal pellet and spring in and then the bolt with the oring and seal it with silicone or something to prevent oil leak.
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