I've been lurking on here since my brother bought a hymee supercharger, better say hi
10-24-2014, 02:41 AM
#27
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Holy FS! Never thought I would see someone clued enough to get this thing running. Props to you man for getting as far along as you have. The web page that you couldn't get to was mine, before my free hosting got shut down. Was actually in my old employers test lab before they decided to decommission it. Reason you couldn't get to it is because you're from non-ARIN assigned IP space. Nothing personal.
Your bypass setup sounds to me like the main reason you've been able to keep the thing from stalling constantly, which eventually made me throw in the towel. I'd be real interested in detailed pics of what you've done with that. Here's a few small pics of mine, before I removed and boxed it up. I have literally thousands more from 2+ years of screwing with it. Just please keep in mind I have little time for the boards and post rarely, but you've definitely got my attention.
One of the pics will show the major misalignment where the two ends of the intake dogbone meet. To try and compensate I just hacksawed mine in half and joined with a hump hose coupler..
Your bypass setup sounds to me like the main reason you've been able to keep the thing from stalling constantly, which eventually made me throw in the towel. I'd be real interested in detailed pics of what you've done with that. Here's a few small pics of mine, before I removed and boxed it up. I have literally thousands more from 2+ years of screwing with it. Just please keep in mind I have little time for the boards and post rarely, but you've definitely got my attention.
One of the pics will show the major misalignment where the two ends of the intake dogbone meet. To try and compensate I just hacksawed mine in half and joined with a hump hose coupler..
I have pics on my phone of all the mods to the system, will transfer them to photobucket and post here.
For the bypass I machined up a fitting that blocks the air going along the supercharger plate and directs it all through the Bosch valve then simply welded fitting to the intake pipe to plumb back the valve.
I'll be changing the intake pipe though as the o rings blow out when running high boost.
I also had to move the oil drain to the sump, under boost the oil draining into the fill tube was being pushed back up the fill tube and going into the inlet and blowing the fill plug out.
I welded on a screw in plug and made up an oil air separator to keep the oil out of the intake. Also increased the size of the breather fittings.
So many mods, to something I was hoping would be a bolt on kit.
Nearly light at the end of the tunnel.
For the bypass I machined up a fitting that blocks the air going along the supercharger plate and directs it all through the Bosch valve then simply welded fitting to the intake pipe to plumb back the valve.
I'll be changing the intake pipe though as the o rings blow out when running high boost.
I also had to move the oil drain to the sump, under boost the oil draining into the fill tube was being pushed back up the fill tube and going into the inlet and blowing the fill plug out.
I welded on a screw in plug and made up an oil air separator to keep the oil out of the intake. Also increased the size of the breather fittings.
So many mods, to something I was hoping would be a bolt on kit.
Nearly light at the end of the tunnel.
10-24-2014, 02:49 AM
#28
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As far as the oil leaks go, I ended up (very carefully) drilling into the side of the lower gear housing, and fitted a secondary oil drain, connected to a Y that dropped straight down to the oil pan. I found that during normal operation, the gear housing was actually filling with oil, which then ended up filling the layshaft and leaking oil from the front of the mounting plate.
Additionally, over the course of my nine install attempts I removed every single O-ring and the layshaft with Viton rated replacements because of the excessive heat produced by the supercharger. You can also see in one of the pics the thermal wrap I used for the engine harness because yours will melt if you don't. I noticed mine started to go within about 20 miles of street testing.
Additionally, over the course of my nine install attempts I removed every single O-ring and the layshaft with Viton rated replacements because of the excessive heat produced by the supercharger. You can also see in one of the pics the thermal wrap I used for the engine harness because yours will melt if you don't. I noticed mine started to go within about 20 miles of street testing.
I also had to move the oil drain to the sump, under boost the oil draining into the fill tube was being pushed back up the fill tube and going into the inlet and blowing the fill plug out.
I welded on a screw in plug and made up an oil air separator to keep the oil out of the intake. Also increased the size of the breather fittings.
I welded on a screw in plug and made up an oil air separator to keep the oil out of the intake. Also increased the size of the breather fittings.
10-24-2014, 03:02 AM
#29
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Possibly detonation but I was there when it was running on the dyno. Definitely no missfire and no knock indication on the extra knock sensor and the knock numbers were low on the ecu.
10-24-2014, 09:06 AM
#30
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As far as the oil leaks go, I ended up (very carefully) drilling into the side of the lower gear housing, and fitted a secondary oil drain, connected to a Y that dropped straight down to the oil pan. I found that during normal operation, the gear housing was actually filling with oil, which then ended up filling the layshaft and leaking oil from the front of the mounting plate.
Additionally, over the course of my nine install attempts I removed every single O-ring and the layshaft with Viton rated replacements because of the excessive heat produced by the supercharger. You can also see in one of the pics the thermal wrap I used for the engine harness because yours will melt if you don't. I noticed mine started to go within about 20 miles of street testing.
Attachment 206113Attachment 206114Attachment 206115
Additionally, over the course of my nine install attempts I removed every single O-ring and the layshaft with Viton rated replacements because of the excessive heat produced by the supercharger. You can also see in one of the pics the thermal wrap I used for the engine harness because yours will melt if you don't. I noticed mine started to go within about 20 miles of street testing.
Attachment 206113Attachment 206114Attachment 206115
Glad to see you posting, I was bummed when your site went away.
10-24-2014, 07:35 PM
#32
rev it up
Good call on the engine harness wrap as I had to replace mine and it was not cheap.
Danny, made up a metal insert to deal with the intake pipe issue on the plenum side. On the exit side of the supercharger I also welded the pipe directly to the outlet to take away the restriction and eliminate boost leak.
ATL8 I like the idea of the added oil drain and the extra bolts will make it leak free.
Danny, made up a metal insert to deal with the intake pipe issue on the plenum side. On the exit side of the supercharger I also welded the pipe directly to the outlet to take away the restriction and eliminate boost leak.
ATL8 I like the idea of the added oil drain and the extra bolts will make it leak free.
12-03-2014, 11:41 PM
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Sorry for the delay, have been away and then getting some cars ready for a track day.
The engine is almost back from the machine shop so assembly soon.
I've managed to upload some pics.
Here is the bypass set up. The new adaptor seals against the supercharger plate so the bypass air goes through the Bosch valve. Vacuum for the valve comes from the blue fitting just behind it.
These are the changes to the back of the supercharger.
At the front of this pic you can see the extra bolt holding the case together, this was just left out by hymee.
I also put an m6 bolt with stainless helicoil to clamp this corner of the case better. This replaces an m5 bolt.
There are also two dowels I made to align the case. These were needed front and rear (so four dowels in total).
My kit used m8 bolts with 10mm holes in all the plates, so you can imagine the amount of movement there was in the whole kit when the bolts were loose.
With out the dowels front and rear there is no way to align the supercharger as you assemble it. The misalignment will greatly shorten the life of the gearbox.
New oil feed fitting to allow oil to run over all the gears.
New -6 oil drain fitting. I used the original oil drain plate, just plugged the hole. The new drain hole is about 9mm.
The original hymee idea of draining through a spinning bearing would have never worked.
Groove machined to allow the oil from the case to drain around the drive gear as there was only about a 1mm gap between the gear and housing plate for the oil to drain through.
This is the front plate, you can see how much I had to slot the plates to get the bolts to line up. The countersunk bolt has been added as this was also left out by hymee.
This pic shows out the alignment issues.
Probably why all the holes were drilled to m10, so the kit could be bolted together.
I sealed up the whole kit with threebond black. When the engine was removed there were no oil leaks from the supercharger.
Hopefully it will be back in soon.
Feel free to ask any questions.
The engine is almost back from the machine shop so assembly soon.
I've managed to upload some pics.
Here is the bypass set up. The new adaptor seals against the supercharger plate so the bypass air goes through the Bosch valve. Vacuum for the valve comes from the blue fitting just behind it.
These are the changes to the back of the supercharger.
At the front of this pic you can see the extra bolt holding the case together, this was just left out by hymee.
I also put an m6 bolt with stainless helicoil to clamp this corner of the case better. This replaces an m5 bolt.
There are also two dowels I made to align the case. These were needed front and rear (so four dowels in total).
My kit used m8 bolts with 10mm holes in all the plates, so you can imagine the amount of movement there was in the whole kit when the bolts were loose.
With out the dowels front and rear there is no way to align the supercharger as you assemble it. The misalignment will greatly shorten the life of the gearbox.
New oil feed fitting to allow oil to run over all the gears.
New -6 oil drain fitting. I used the original oil drain plate, just plugged the hole. The new drain hole is about 9mm.
The original hymee idea of draining through a spinning bearing would have never worked.
Groove machined to allow the oil from the case to drain around the drive gear as there was only about a 1mm gap between the gear and housing plate for the oil to drain through.
This is the front plate, you can see how much I had to slot the plates to get the bolts to line up. The countersunk bolt has been added as this was also left out by hymee.
This pic shows out the alignment issues.
Probably why all the holes were drilled to m10, so the kit could be bolted together.
I sealed up the whole kit with threebond black. When the engine was removed there were no oil leaks from the supercharger.
Hopefully it will be back in soon.
Feel free to ask any questions.
Last edited by Sr20gemini; 12-04-2014 at 04:54 AM.
12-04-2014, 05:21 AM
#36
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A few other issues I can think of were
The drive shaft was roughly machined where the front oil seal runs. This caused the oil seal to wear out in a few hours of running. Luckily I was able to polish the area where the seal runs with out taking too much material off.
The supercharger plate hit on the water pump webs so a few reliefs had to be cut into it.
The tensioner for the ac belt had to be slotted more so the belt can be tensioned enough. I might possibly redesign this tensioner as it's painful to use.
The s/c belt tensioner pulley had to be machined down as it hit hard on the alternator.
That's all that comes to mind at the moment, I'm sure there's more.
The drive shaft was roughly machined where the front oil seal runs. This caused the oil seal to wear out in a few hours of running. Luckily I was able to polish the area where the seal runs with out taking too much material off.
The supercharger plate hit on the water pump webs so a few reliefs had to be cut into it.
The tensioner for the ac belt had to be slotted more so the belt can be tensioned enough. I might possibly redesign this tensioner as it's painful to use.
The s/c belt tensioner pulley had to be machined down as it hit hard on the alternator.
That's all that comes to mind at the moment, I'm sure there's more.
12-10-2014, 01:36 AM
#39
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I remember Hymee posting on the aus forums saying he had a s/c lying around.
It's a shame you've had to do all this extra work to get it to a working/satisfactory state.
It's a shame you've had to do all this extra work to get it to a working/satisfactory state.
01-19-2015, 10:49 PM
#40
You clearly have a variety of standards over vendors you get your rant on over. FWIW i paid $1k for the software and never received the software key to use it.
Getting screwed is getting screwed. They all have personal issues of one sort or another.
Getting screwed is getting screwed. They all have personal issues of one sort or another.
Welcome. The kit has a number of problems and they are not customer related. He had a lot of personal BS going on but that is no excuse for burning people.
Read all of this:
RX-8 Hymee Supercharger Install
Read all of this:
RX-8 Hymee Supercharger Install
05-25-2018, 09:00 PM
#44
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You have to remove the pulley from the stud on the assembly. Then install the idler assembly using the two socket head cap screws & spacers. Next install the pulley by tightening the 17mm threaded cap lock nut while holding the rear hex nut in place with something like a 17mm crowfoot wrench.
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