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If I slowly drive and get up to about 4-6k rpm the jumps super hard and I can’t find anybody else having the same issue. It’s a 2004 rx8 6 speed with a half bridge
I can’t figure out how to upload the video onto
the thread
If I slowly drive and get up to about 4-6k rpm the jumps super hard and I can’t find anybody else having the same issue. It’s a 2004 rx8 6 speed with a half bridge
I can’t figure out how to upload the video onto
the thread
Strange. You can upload to YouTube then post the link here.
That traction control light being on might be a clue. Have you had the OBD codes read? It could be cutting throttle because it thinks a wheel is slipping.
Since the issue seems to occur at the same rpm (right?) I would be more inclined to blame the engine, perhaps the SSV, but would expect check engine light to be on. You could try to move the SSV by hand to make sure it moves smoothly.
Again, is this new or did it do this since the bridgeport? Because porting this engine can bring all kinds of fun
That traction control light being on might be a clue. Have you had the OBD codes read? It could be cutting throttle because it thinks a wheel is slipping.
Since the issue seems to occur at the same rpm (right?) I would be more inclined to blame the engine, perhaps the SSV, but would expect check engine light to be on. You could try to move the SSV by hand to make sure it moves smoothly.
Again, is this new or did it do this since the bridgeport? Because porting this engine can bring all kinds of fun
What would cause the traction control light to stay on? Every time I start the car the light is on along with the dsc light. I do the reset with the steering wheel everytime and only the dsc light goes off. Also I bought the car with the bridge alit only does it sometimes
Get the codes read, tht should point out what is causing the light to be on. Could be a wheel sensor, steering angle sensor, yaw sensor, drive by wire problem...
This is the codes it gave me. I’m gonna guess that the upstream o2 sensor is bad but I’m not sure. Still not sure about TSC/DSC lights not going off though.
I’m guessing this is the air pump? If so it was taken off the car.
If the ecu is keeping the engine in open loop, that's a HUGE problem. I would start by diagnosing the coolant temp circuit failure. Likely a bad sender, bad wiring to the sender or a bad pin fit at the sender. The easiest thing would be that its just not plugged in.
Being in open loop, the ecu is not allowing fuel correction using data from the air fuel ratio sensor and the oxygen sensor. This can be why you are seeing the P0172 code. Also with a heater control circuit failure, you could have a bad heater circuit in the oxygen sensor or bad wiring on the sensor itself as the two common failures.
The P0030 and P0037 are also oxygen sensor codes in a sense. Could also be because of the coolant temp circuit failure. I would diagnose this right away.
The P2259 is an easy correction. Likely a bad solenoid on the upper intake manifold. Don't worry buch about the P0456. Thats just a small evaluation leak. It will only set a mil. This is something I would diagnose last as its not going to cause issues with driveability.
P0456 is probably the gas cap. If it's not that, usually it's the fuel pump seal. This is covered under recall by Mazda. You have a lot of codes to solve. You should replace the front and rear O2 sensors (OEM or Denso only!!!) and clean your MAF and ESPS sensor by the crank pulley. That should solve most of those codes I believe. Remember to do the 20 brake pedal stomp trick after you reconnect the battery.
If the ecu is keeping the engine in open loop, that's a HUGE problem. I would start by diagnosing the coolant temp circuit failure. Likely a bad sender, bad wiring to the sender or a bad pin fit at the sender. The easiest thing would be that its just not plugged in.
Being in open loop, the ecu is not allowing fuel correction using data from the air fuel ratio sensor and the oxygen sensor. This can be why you are seeing the P0172 code. Also with a heater control circuit failure, you could have a bad heater circuit in the oxygen sensor or bad wiring on the sensor itself as the two common failures.
The P0030 and P0037 are also oxygen sensor codes in a sense. Could also be because of the coolant temp circuit failure. I would diagnose this right away.
The P2259 is an easy correction. Likely a bad solenoid on the upper intake manifold. Don't worry buch about the P0456. Thats just a small evaluation leak. It will only set a mil. This is something I would diagnose last as its not going to cause issues with driveability.
somone that owned the car before me had the dash apart and said the needle in the dash for temp is a little off. Would this cause anything? My local auto zone has a temp sensor in stock I’m gonna go pick it up here in a few
Fix the O2 and baro sensors first, the coolant sensor is the least of your problems right now. The code just says the car isn't up to temp to run Closed Loop, but without working O2 sensors you're not going to get into Closed Loop anyway.
Fix the O2 and baro sensors first, the coolant sensor is the least of your problems right now. The code just says the car isn't up to temp to run Closed Loop, but without working O2 sensors you're not going to get into Closed Loop anyway.
Correct me if I’m wrong but I need the wide band o2 sensor right
Correct me if I’m wrong but I need the wide band o2 sensor right
It sounds like you need both. The upstream is a wideband, the downstream is regular. You have a code for the heater circuit in each. Especially for the upstream, make sure you get the original Mazda/Denso part.
Nope false alarm it came back on lol. Gotta be the tires. Anyway picking up the new upstream o2 sensor tomorrow morning. Put a new alternator and coolant temp sensor on today. Hopefully after tomorrow it’s like a new car again
Nope false alarm it came back on lol. Gotta be the tires. Anyway picking up the new upstream o2 sensor tomorrow morning. Put a new alternator and coolant temp sensor on today. Hopefully after tomorrow it’s like a new car again
Should get the downstream done while you are at it as you have a code for it. Keep us posted. Traction control codes can be read by mechanics or if you have the right diagnostic tools. You'll get it running good again.
Replaced the upstream. Still cuts out and jumps hard. I don’t think the downstream would cause it that bad would it? Also the cat is gutted, would that affect the down stream? What’s next? Could it be a fuel issue?
I have not had them read yet. But I was driving today and everytime I’d go around a big corner the light would flash and lock the front brakes for a split second
Yep. Definitely a traction control problem, especially if it's tripping the brakes. Your engine doesn't have the ability to do that but the DSC does. There a number of sensors that make it work, could be one of them, but which one will be in the diagnostic codes.
Maybe a silly question but all your tires are the same size, right?
Actually... DSC is supposed to disable itself if it detects a problem, so I wonder why it's still activating. You could try turning it off via the DSC switch and see if anything changes. Left of the steering wheel, low on the dash.
Yep. Definitely a traction control problem, especially if it's tripping the brakes. Your engine doesn't have the ability to do that but the DSC does. There a number of sensors that make it work, could be one of them, but which one will be in the diagnostic codes.
Maybe a silly question but all your tires are the same size, right?
Actually... DSC is supposed to disable itself if it detects a problem, so I wonder why it's still activating. You could try turning it off via the DSC switch and see if anything changes. Left of the steering wheel, low on the dash.
yep all the tires are same brand and same size. All the tread is fairly even. Also I don’t think the dsc button works in mine. This is my 3rd time owning this same car and when I had it back it 2015 bone stock it did work
03-15-2021, 03:32 PM
