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So an inspector from the warranty place wanted to do his thing, and wanted to witness the compression test. Whatever. Here is the results from today's test.
The numbers are higher this time, but so is the rpm, however it's still below spec. I also got my fuel average. Full tank on premium, 234 miles, 17.3 mpg average.
Hopefully this company replaces this for me, because that'd be awesome.
Here's a random question. I would like to have a thread that is kind of a blog/Q&A/info/recommendation all in one. Like a history of my car and I together, but with everyone here able to help and/or give suggestions, etc.
Should/can I create said thread outside of the New Member Forum, or keep it here?
Since you're not getting the engine through Mazda directly, consider having your insurer get an engine from Pineapple, Pettit, Rotary Resurrection or another known good rebuilder. Mazda remans can be flaky
Well, it's a no go. They say because it was a pre existing condition before I bought it, that it's not covered. So now I have to find a way to get a new engine, or this one rebuilt. Mazda quoted $5530 for a new engine install, that includes all the labor hours. The engine itself was $4193.
I'm guessing there's way too much involved in an engine replacement to do it myself? My dad has worked on and replaced several engines, but none were rotary.
I checked the rotary resurrection site. Looks like about $1600 for the rebuild, then add shipping costs. So probably $3-4000.
I guess i can try to cancel the service contract to get some of that money back, but what it something else fails later that could've been covered? I have gap insurance, maybe I should make use of that instead?
Well, it's a no go. They say because it was a pre existing condition before I bought it, that it's not covered. So now I have to find a way to get a new engine, or this one rebuilt. Mazda quoted $5530 for a new engine install, that includes all the labor hours. The engine itself was $4193.
I'm guessing there's way too much involved in an engine replacement to do it myself? My dad has worked on and replaced several engines, but none were rotary.
I checked the rotary resurrection site. Looks like about $1600 for the rebuild, then add shipping costs. So probably $3-4000.
I guess i can try to cancel the service contract to get some of that money back, but what it something else fails later that could've been covered? I have gap insurance, maybe I should make use of that instead?
Wait did you get a warranty through the dealership or something? If so, either the dealership or the warranty company has to honor it.
I went through it with my first 8, eventually the dealership said they wouldn't replace my engine so they bought the car back in full.
This sounds like something you need to take up with the seller. Makes sense the insurance wouldn't cover a pre-existing condition, otherwise people would be buying junk cars and having insurance restore them.
Where you live, is there not some buyer protection law that mandates an unconditional warranty for x time after sale?
I live in Oregon. Unless I'm not finding the right stuff, I think I'm stuck with this. We have no "Lemon Law" on used vehicles. Only on new vehicles. I might've been able to claim this if there was never a mention of the car being sold "as is" from the dealer, but it was. I have that paper.
As for the service contract, yes it cost extra. I did this because I thought they would actually cover something if it failed. The fact that they consider the compression loss a pre existing condition, which technically it is, and therefore won't replace the engine bothers me for this reason: if there was compression loss as a pre existing condition, but under my possession the engine fails, are they going to say it was a pre existing condition that caused it to fail, and therefore not replace it? What kind of crap are they allowed to get away with by claiming it as a pre existing condition? Technically almost anything can be considered pre existing. That's what a "used" car is.
If I cancel this service contract, because I'm financing the vehicle, that cost will go towards the loan. It was $2706. I can get that full amount if cancelled within 30 days from purchase, which means I have about 2.5 weeks left. But it will just technically lower what I owe, and I'm still in the same boat.
Would the ignition coils cause my compression numbers to be low?
Because I won't be able to get the $3k+ until probably damn tax season, I'm thinking my options are limited. 1) Wreck the car, enough to be considered totaled, gap insurance will cover the difference from value and total owed. I come out owing nothing, and start car shopping again. This is not the first choice I want to do btw.
2) Drive the car until either I have the money for a rebuild, or the engine fails. If it lasts until I can rebuild, awesome. If it fails, then I hound the service contract people, which could possibly end up a legal battle if they claim the "pre existing" bs again.
[...]As for the service contract, yes it cost extra. I did this because I thought they would actually cover something if it failed. The fact that they consider the compression loss a pre existing condition, which technically it is, and therefore won't replace the engine bothers me for this reason: if there was compression loss as a pre existing condition, but under my possession the engine fails, are they going to say it was a pre existing condition that caused it to fail, and therefore not replace it? What kind of crap are they allowed to get away with by claiming it as a pre existing condition? Technically almost anything can be considered pre existing. That's what a "used" car is.[...]
Well if they weren't comfortable warrantying the car, then they shouldn't have. I would go after them, but it's your time and money.
I went back and read the earlier posts, definitely go after the service contract company, they didn't have to issue it if they thought the car had issues. This is horse sh*t.
A little over $12k. I had negative equity tacked on, thus the gap coverage. Dealer was asking $8k, plus the $2706 service contract, $520 for gap, and the negative equity.
That's... That's a little beyond fucked up mate, even with negative equity. They should have honored the contract regardless. If they won't honor the contract, then cancel that ****. What does it cover if it doesn't cover an engine that they knew was going? That sounds super shady. Honestly, I'd record all the information you've gotten so far and take it to...damnit I forgot who, I want to say District Attorneys office with a notorized letter explaining the situation and the request to correct it. Had a buddy who years ago was sold a car that was told it was one engine and turned out it was another, and they ended up having to refund him all the cost sans title fee and he got to keep the car.
Attorney General? Something with something in the state. if I can remember which office it is I'll get back to you.
Hey if you are going to be FUBARed, might as well drive your car and enjoy it. Don't fret over too much. Pick some curves and drive. Fack the comp numbers.
Wanted to give an update. The service contract people are saying it's pre existing, so the dealer has to fix it. Dealer says their shop report is good, so service people should fix it. See where this is going? Next step is I'm calling BBB, and an attorney to see if there's something that can be done. My father in law spoke with an attorney briefly, and he says they should pay for it. So we'll see.
On another note, I still love driving it. Still seems to be running ok. Got new tires about a week ago, all around. Same size as stock for now, 225. Made a world of a difference though. Got some white LEDs on the way, today hopefully. Gonna change out my interior lights, and the parking lights. I have the annoying one out right now. Other than that, not doing much until the engine thing is done with.
Wanted to give an update. The service contract people are saying it's pre existing, so the dealer has to fix it. Dealer says their shop report is good, so service people should fix it. See where this is going? Next step is I'm calling BBB, and an attorney to see if there's something that can be done. My father in law spoke with an attorney briefly, and he says they should pay for it. So we'll see.
On another note, I still love driving it. Still seems to be running ok. Got new tires about a week ago, all around. Same size as stock for now, 225. Made a world of a difference though. Got some white LEDs on the way, today hopefully. Gonna change out my interior lights, and the parking lights. I have the annoying one out right now. Other than that, not doing much until the engine thing is done with.
Can we see the shop report the dealer is talking about?
I mean if they didn't test the compression, and there's a problem with compression... the shop report isn't a good defence.
He never gave me one. But I know they don't have the means for proper compression test on site. I think that they're both trying to get out of having to do anything.
07-15-2016, 08:36 AM
