looking for help
#1
looking for help
hello everyone, i own a 2009 series 2 rx8. i have owned this car for about a year now and i am looking to do some mods and such to it but unfortunately i am no mechanic. i have looked around the website and don't know a whole lot about what i am reading. so i was hoping to post here to find some 1 on 1 help. hopefully with someone who might live in the Columbus area of Ohio. if anyone is willing to chat with me to help me understand more of what i should/ can do to enhance the performance of my vehicle. a message would be awesome. thanks to the community for listening.
#3
well. a few things really that I'm concerned about. i don't think any of them are major so ill just make a quick list though i have yet to hook up a computer to see what codes it gives off because my check engine light is on. and as i said it is a series 2 model and from my understanding that make a difference. and is an automatic transmission with the slap shifters. but anyway illl get down to it.
1. i have a heavy gas/exhaust smell when standing outside the car and when i accelerate. no idea where it comes from
2. it sounds as though my fuel pump is having a hard time because upon start up it makes a thumping sound as if its losing suction or something
3. when i hammer the gas the engine seems to make a more winding type sound and it also sounds like it is trying to get air from inside the cab of the car. like its sucking air from the passenger vent.
4. when my rpms hit between 7-8 (usually in 3rd and 4th gear ) the whole car seems to putter and lose power and my rpms drop and then go back up and the process repeats.
thats all i have for now until i pull the codes for the check engine. but it seems plenty to start with. my main goal is to fix what needs fix then start installing some aftermarket mods.
1. i have a heavy gas/exhaust smell when standing outside the car and when i accelerate. no idea where it comes from
2. it sounds as though my fuel pump is having a hard time because upon start up it makes a thumping sound as if its losing suction or something
3. when i hammer the gas the engine seems to make a more winding type sound and it also sounds like it is trying to get air from inside the cab of the car. like its sucking air from the passenger vent.
4. when my rpms hit between 7-8 (usually in 3rd and 4th gear ) the whole car seems to putter and lose power and my rpms drop and then go back up and the process repeats.
thats all i have for now until i pull the codes for the check engine. but it seems plenty to start with. my main goal is to fix what needs fix then start installing some aftermarket mods.
#4
Registered
well. a few things really that I'm concerned about. i don't think any of them are major so ill just make a quick list though i have yet to hook up a computer to see what codes it gives off because my check engine light is on. and as i said it is a series 2 model and from my understanding that make a difference. and is an automatic transmission with the slap shifters. but anyway illl get down to it.
1. i have a heavy gas/exhaust smell when standing outside the car and when i accelerate. no idea where it comes from
2. it sounds as though my fuel pump is having a hard time because upon start up it makes a thumping sound as if its losing suction or something
3. when i hammer the gas the engine seems to make a more winding type sound and it also sounds like it is trying to get air from inside the cab of the car. like its sucking air from the passenger vent.
4. when my rpms hit between 7-8 (usually in 3rd and 4th gear ) the whole car seems to putter and lose power and my rpms drop and then go back up and the process repeats.
thats all i have for now until i pull the codes for the check engine. but it seems plenty to start with. my main goal is to fix what needs fix then start installing some aftermarket mods.
1. i have a heavy gas/exhaust smell when standing outside the car and when i accelerate. no idea where it comes from
2. it sounds as though my fuel pump is having a hard time because upon start up it makes a thumping sound as if its losing suction or something
3. when i hammer the gas the engine seems to make a more winding type sound and it also sounds like it is trying to get air from inside the cab of the car. like its sucking air from the passenger vent.
4. when my rpms hit between 7-8 (usually in 3rd and 4th gear ) the whole car seems to putter and lose power and my rpms drop and then go back up and the process repeats.
thats all i have for now until i pull the codes for the check engine. but it seems plenty to start with. my main goal is to fix what needs fix then start installing some aftermarket mods.
Knowing your codes will be of help as well.
#5
i make sure not to overfill my oil and i use premix every time i gas up. i have not done a fuel pressure test. is that possible at home or do i need special tools ( like i said. i am in no shape of a mechanic) i have not had a compression test. i had my spark plugs, cables, and ignition coils all replaced about 8 months ago all with NGK brand. and the engine has 80,000 miles on it. i can get the codes and decifer them at a later point this evening. and is there anyway to test my exhaust and intake? i appreciate the help. its not my area of expertise but I'm more than wiling to learn for the sake of my 8
#6
Registered
i make sure not to overfill my oil and i use premix every time i gas up. i have not done a fuel pressure test. is that possible at home or do i need special tools ( like i said. i am in no shape of a mechanic) i have not had a compression test. i had my spark plugs, cables, and ignition coils all replaced about 8 months ago all with NGK brand. and the engine has 80,000 miles on it. i can get the codes and decifer them at a later point this evening. and is there anyway to test my exhaust and intake? i appreciate the help. its not my area of expertise but I'm more than wiling to learn for the sake of my 8
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 04-02-2020 at 04:01 PM.
#7
i will take my best shot at inspecting my intake and vacuum lines. i ran a code reader on a mac tools obd2/ eobd et80. not sure if it is an update thing but it pulled 11 codes from my engine.
3 of the codes were: P0410 for secondary injection system. and it said they were all generic codes
2 codes for P0411: secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. and they were generic codes as well
3 codes for C342D: doc definitions not found. says to view the vehicle service manual. which i do have. it was a mazda code
2 codes for P0055: H02S heater resistance bank 1 sensor 3. it was a generic code
1 code for P2069: post catalyst fuel trim system to lean bank 1. and that was a generic code.
i also emailed a mechanic in my are to make that appointment for a compression test.
3 of the codes were: P0410 for secondary injection system. and it said they were all generic codes
2 codes for P0411: secondary air injection system incorrect flow detected. and they were generic codes as well
3 codes for C342D: doc definitions not found. says to view the vehicle service manual. which i do have. it was a mazda code
2 codes for P0055: H02S heater resistance bank 1 sensor 3. it was a generic code
1 code for P2069: post catalyst fuel trim system to lean bank 1. and that was a generic code.
i also emailed a mechanic in my are to make that appointment for a compression test.
#8
im not sure if the device i used is an entirely up to date one. but it did pull a few codes off and some were repetitive
3 codes were P0410: secondary air injection system. it was a generic code
2 codes for P0411: secondary air injection system. incorrect flow. it was a generic code
3 codes for C342D: doc definitions not found. view vehicle manual. which i have. mazda code
2 codes for P0055: H02S heater resistance bank 1 sensor 3. generic code
1 code for P2069: post catalyst fuel trim system to lean bank 1. generic code
i don't know if the repetition of codes maters or not but i counted them. and you said the spark plugs may need replaced. is it just the plugs or the coils and cables as well?
3 codes were P0410: secondary air injection system. it was a generic code
2 codes for P0411: secondary air injection system. incorrect flow. it was a generic code
3 codes for C342D: doc definitions not found. view vehicle manual. which i have. mazda code
2 codes for P0055: H02S heater resistance bank 1 sensor 3. generic code
1 code for P2069: post catalyst fuel trim system to lean bank 1. generic code
i don't know if the repetition of codes maters or not but i counted them. and you said the spark plugs may need replaced. is it just the plugs or the coils and cables as well?
#9
Registered
im not sure if the device i used is an entirely up to date one. but it did pull a few codes off and some were repetitive
3 codes were P0410: secondary air injection system. it was a generic code
2 codes for P0411: secondary air injection system. incorrect flow. it was a generic code
3 codes for C342D: doc definitions not found. view vehicle manual. which i have. mazda code
2 codes for P0055: H02S heater resistance bank 1 sensor 3. generic code
1 code for P2069: post catalyst fuel trim system to lean bank 1. generic code
i don't know if the repetition of codes maters or not but i counted them. and you said the spark plugs may need replaced. is it just the plugs or the coils and cables as well?
3 codes were P0410: secondary air injection system. it was a generic code
2 codes for P0411: secondary air injection system. incorrect flow. it was a generic code
3 codes for C342D: doc definitions not found. view vehicle manual. which i have. mazda code
2 codes for P0055: H02S heater resistance bank 1 sensor 3. generic code
1 code for P2069: post catalyst fuel trim system to lean bank 1. generic code
i don't know if the repetition of codes maters or not but i counted them. and you said the spark plugs may need replaced. is it just the plugs or the coils and cables as well?
1. P0410+11- air pump is faulty or needs to be replaced. Check fuses and connectors.
2. C342D + P0055 - O2 sensor issue. Should have both O2 sensors and the catalytic converter inspected by an exhaust shop. You may have catalyst damage or something wrong in the exhaust.
3. P2069 - Bad Catalytic converter or ignition system issue. Could possibly be a spark plug issue which is why they should be inspected.
I would highly recommend you drop your cat and have your exhaust system thoroughly checked out. The longer you drive it in this condition the more likely you are suffering engine damage. Get a compression test ASAP.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 04-02-2020 at 08:38 PM.
#10
i found a rotary mechanic in my area. i will get that compression test and fuel test as soon as he gives me availability. i have an appointment made for the exhaust and cat and O2 sensors with a local exhaust shop. i really appreciate the time and help you have given me. I'm glad i finally have a direction to look to keep my 8 running tip top. thank you. i just wish i did this sooner.
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CaymanRotary (04-03-2020)
#12
so i have not yet got any results from a mechanic but i am planning for the worst. i did a ton of research to find a new air pump because my fuse has blown 3 times now. i also researched and found a mid pipe and double cat back system from racing beat. and O2 sensor replacements. i watched a ton of videos and i am confident i could replace the exhaust system myself as long as i don't mess with the engine without professional help. i also found videos on deleting my air pump all together. what are the pros and cons of that? and is racing beat a good brand to trust? like i said I'm just planning for the worst
#13
Registered
so i have not yet got any results from a mechanic but i am planning for the worst. i did a ton of research to find a new air pump because my fuse has blown 3 times now. i also researched and found a mid pipe and double cat back system from racing beat. and O2 sensor replacements. i watched a ton of videos and i am confident i could replace the exhaust system myself as long as i don't mess with the engine without professional help. i also found videos on deleting my air pump all together. what are the pros and cons of that? and is racing beat a good brand to trust? like i said I'm just planning for the worst
Before spending money on these things, make sure your engine still has life left on it. Compression test is most important thing.
#14
i will look into a pump block off kit. and i will get that compression test asap. hopefully this week or next. still waiting on the mechanic to give me a day when he is available i do plan on replacing the engine at some point with the 13b 3 rotar. I'm going to assume that it would still accommodate my exhaust system?
#15
Registered
i will look into a pump block off kit. and i will get that compression test asap. hopefully this week or next. still waiting on the mechanic to give me a day when he is available i do plan on replacing the engine at some point with the 13b 3 rotar. I'm going to assume that it would still accommodate my exhaust system?
#16
what is a LFX swap? and would redoing my exhaust system fix all the codes? because it seems they are all related to that. i just want to be sure in what I'm learning and planning.
#18
i see. i was more hoping to keep the rotary though. which is why i was looking at the 3 rotar. but i was unaware of the expense of it. it seems i will have to consider other options though i still want the rotary engine. i don't necessarily want a track car but i am going for more of a street sleeper. though it will be a while before i do all of that. I'm just going to focus on the exhaust. i have a habit of getting ahead of myself and side tracking from what it needs rather than what i want.
#19
Registered
Your best bet in that case is a 13b REW swap. Still very expensive though but no where near a 20b build. 400+ HP capable if done right.
https://www.rx8performance.com/produ...ne-swap-kit-v2
https://www.rx8performance.com/produ...ne-swap-kit-v2
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 04-04-2020 at 06:48 PM.
#20
Registered
the exhaust is just the first step assuming your engine passes the compression test. If it doesn’t, really try to figure out what your best move is relative to your budget. The cheapest option is to just swap another Renesis in there.
#21
thats most likely what ill do seeing as they are pretty cheap considering. and since a swap to the 3 rotar is more than i expected it to be. i though it would be just pulling mine out and that one in seeing as they are both rotary. i haven't looked a whole bunch into the 20b but. i do know i don't have a spare 40k laying around. so as soon i get that compression test. i might just go for the exhaust assuming my test goes well. and then ill more than likely be right back here asking for more help on what to do next
#22
got results. compression was 95/95/95 on both front and rear rotar. also replaced my spark plugs. and found that i had a factory block on my high speed intake valve. so i got the fixed as well. so everything came back positive. with a total cost of 650 bucks.
#23
Registered
Good stuff. When you say 95psi on all rotors that is after correcting for 250 RPM and elevation? That’s below Mazda minimum spec but the engine will still work. You will be needing a new engine in the near future depending on how much you drive it. Keep the ignition system healthy, change oil every 3000 miles and premix to eek a bit more life out of it. You will have reduced power as well.
#25
Registered
https://shop.mazmart.com/en/rx8-caliper-left-rear
I know yours is a 2009 but I think they still fit. I'll do some more research.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 07-10-2020 at 07:34 PM.