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Lost battery connection and stalled: flood situation?

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Old 01-10-2015, 02:44 PM
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Lost battery connection and stalled: flood situation?

As titled, the other day I excitedly got in my rx8 for its first (legal) drive out on the road...backing out of my driveway I hit a bump and the battery terminal knocked loose, causing a misfire and quick stall. The engine had been running maybe 2 minUtes so I suspected flood right away. It's my own stupid fault for not checking the tightness, totally own up to that. However after reconnecting and re-checkig the battery connections it cranks and cranks and won't start. I did the pedal-to-floor crank quite a bit and it didn't kick at all. Without pressing the pedal to the floor it kicks on one rotor (or maybe leading plugs?) and not the others. It seems very close to starting but never gets there. After this, I've done the pedal to the floor and get nothing back, which tells me it isn't flooded anymore but is just not getting spark. There is plenty of stinky white vapor coming out the exhaust too, seems like unburnt fuel. I have coils and plugs on order, but really need to get this thing going sooner rather than later since I owe the state an inspection within a few days. My question is, how much does it take to deflood, given my situation? Do you think it's possible that I fried a coil with the loose terminal (spikes in current)? Other options or thoughts? I'll post a video shortly.
Old 01-10-2015, 02:56 PM
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You probably aren't being as strictly methodical as you need to be see this.

How do I fix flooding?
1 - Hook up the battery of another running car to the 8's battery via jumper cables to make sure you don't kill your battery.
2 - Hold the gas pedal to the floor
3 - Turn the key to Start and crank for 5-10 seconds
4 - Let the starter cool off for the same time that you cranked it for
5 - Repeat 3 and 4 10 times total
6 - Take your foot off the gas and let the starter rest for 5 minutes
7 - Repeat 2-6 one more time.
8 - Attempt to start the engine normally.
9 - if it doesn't start, repeat 2-6 one more time, then try starting again.
If it still doesn't start, then you have a major failure somewhere that is preventing it from having a chance at starting (see the list mentioned earlier), but if it's just a normal flood, this will solve it.

If you would prefer to use a different deflooding method, see here:
HOWEVER, only pick ONE method. Mixing method almost always results in lots of frustration. The steps given are not arbitrary, they have real reason and purpose behind them, and they depend on the other steps being performed correctly. Pick just one at a time.
Old 01-10-2015, 03:12 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
You probably aren't being as strictly methodical as you need to be see this.

How do I fix flooding?
I am not being strict as in measuring the seconds for each crank but what I've done is pretty close to that procedure. I didn't think that was a very methodological thing, more of just a guideline (I've seen differing timings and such on cranks and time between depending on where you look it up). I'll follow this guide to a tee and report back. It's also 15*F outside which doesn't help anything.
Old 01-11-2015, 11:22 AM
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Holding the gas pedal cuts fuel entirely, so don't expect to start it that way. You really need to follow the procedure steo by step, otherwise you get weird results.

Can you try a pull or push start?
Old 01-11-2015, 01:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Loki
Holding the gas pedal cuts fuel entirely, so don't expect to start it that way. You really need to follow the procedure steo by step, otherwise you get weird results.

Can you try a pull or push start?
Yeah I would expect it to kick in with the fuel cut off if it's flooded though, I dunno...first wankel I've ever had or worked on so I have no idea if it will act how I expect no push/pull, it's an auto and I don't have anywhere around here I can do it. I'm going to give the above method a try to an absolute tee, timing and all, in a few minutes. If it doesn't do anything I'm going to pull the coils and bench test them.
Old 01-11-2015, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by Rockchops
I am not being strict as in measuring the seconds for each crank but what I've done is pretty close to that procedure. I didn't think that was a very methodological thing, more of just a guideline (I've seen differing timings and such on cranks and time between depending on where you look it up). I'll follow this guide to a tee and report back. It's also 15*F outside which doesn't help anything.
All deflood attempts that are not successful using the factory procedure are either because there is something else inhibiting the start that results in a re-flood immediately, or the procedure is not actually followed. 5-10 seconds is flexible, everything else is not.
Old 01-11-2015, 01:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
All deflood attempts that are not successful using the factory procedure are either because there is something else inhibiting the start that results in a re-flood immediately, or the procedure is not actually followed. 5-10 seconds is flexible, everything else is not.
Ah, good to know. I'm in the 5 minute starter rest period now, fingers crossed after another series of cranks.

Btw thanks very much for the help and advice!!
Old 01-11-2015, 01:52 PM
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No luck same issue, feels like it's kicking one rotor and that's it
Old 01-11-2015, 01:54 PM
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Well...

Originally Posted by RIWWP
... are either because there is something else inhibiting the start that results in a re-flood immediately ...
Looks like you have something failed on your hands. Coils, plugs, wires, starter, or compression. Coils, plugs, wires, and starter can all also be affected by grounding connections.
Old 01-11-2015, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
Well...



Looks like you have something failed on your hands. Coils, plugs, wires, starter, or compression. Coils, plugs, wires, and starter can all also be affected by grounding connections.
Yep, time to dig in!
Old 01-14-2015, 07:32 PM
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Update...I replaced all 4 coils tonight and my hunch was right about the ignition. Now it will fire like it is supposed to but won't go above a rough 1500 rpm or stay running for more than a couple seconds...acts a heck of a lot like a flooded engine! I am very much relieved by this, I am going to perform the deflood and hope for the best. The new plugs and wires will go in this weekend along with winter tires. I guess the battery blip was the straw to break the camels back.
Old 01-14-2015, 08:33 PM
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Another update, this one awesome. I got it running like it should again, but not after fumigating the entire neighborhood, yikes. Tons and tons of stinky unburnt fuel smoke to start, thinned out after a bit. I have a bottle of heet in the gas tank now with some older fuel so hopefully between burning that, new plugs, fresh oil change and driving the snot out of it for a bit I will be good to go! Noticed the heater doesn't work though, adding the control unit test to the list...
Old 01-14-2015, 08:34 PM
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A running engine, regardless of how good or bad it is running, is not flooded.

One of the key parts of the definition to "flooding" includes "engine does not start". So a started engine, even briefly, is not flooded. Even when it stalls, it is not flooded. Flooding happens on start up, and prevents the start up. So even if it stalls out, if you start it back up then it isn't flooded.

Check your MAF plug and connections too, once on a coil change I forgot to plug it back in and it had all sorts of trouble staying alive and choking on excess fuel.

Edit: Glad you got it
Old 01-16-2015, 07:46 AM
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After driving it around quite a bit and doing the radio check, looks like my heater core is clogged. Not surprising Since this thing sat for a while with occasional starts. One more thing to add to the weekend list.
Old 01-16-2015, 10:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Rockchops
After driving it around quite a bit and doing the radio check, looks like my heater core is clogged. Not surprising Since this thing sat for a while with occasional starts. One more thing to add to the weekend list.
How did you determine this?
Old 01-16-2015, 11:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Loki
How did you determine this?
Blows lukewarm out of center vent, cold out of side vents. The control **** works alright, it does change the temp (not stuck on 0) and the coolant level is fine. There is a chance it's the thermostat but since it gets to operating temp fine and is stable after hard running I don't think this is the case. After searching The site my symptoms match others who have posted. Flushing the heater core doesn't sound too difficult, I'll probably flush the whole system while I'm at it and inspect the thermostat. Other than that I can't really think of any other variables. I don't see any aux water pump so I'm assuming that's it.

Edited, sorry this site is atrocious on an iphone

Last edited by Rockchops; 01-16-2015 at 12:03 PM.
Old 01-16-2015, 07:46 PM
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Man, addendum to last post, the pop ups on mobile almost make this site unusable (I pretty much only use forums on phone or tapatalk)...idk if any of the mods have control over the pop ups please just take it into consideration. Its to the point I'm ready to leave after 8 very useful (and gracious) days of ownership after being helped by other members. I got this car because of a forum member on another one and love the communities. But holy **** Useability. I know abuout server costs and all that...looked for a premium section with no ads...no search results
Old 01-24-2015, 05:27 PM
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Flushed the heater core today, made a huge difference! Didn't use clr or anything, just water. Another thing crossed off the list...
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