BluSpectre

Ok, so this post is half to try and get some advice on what I'm doing and half to get access to everything outside of the Newbie forums.
From my previous post, I had my engine die on me from my fuel pump. My fuel sender must be wrong after going to a dealership and they said they inspected my fuel tank. Sus?
Anyways, I am partly in the process of installing a new Exedy OE clutch kit thanks to a very awful sounding bearing and inconsistent clutch engagement. Got my car on ramps, had way too much difficulty getting the exhaust off of the hangars and now we are prepping to (slowly) remove the driveshaft and transmission. I am doing this with no prior experience and a handful of YouTube videos. I have hi-heat lithium grease for relubricating the transmission input shaft and bearings, a torque wrench for the Flywheel and diaphragm bolts, new MT-90 GL4 trans fluid and some Lucas GL5 75-90 Gear oil for the diff. Just doing the fluid changes while I'm under here, since I don't know how old the fluids are. However, we plan on using a Hydro jack and some blocks to lower the trans since we don't have a Trans jack. Additionally, the drivetrain support column seems like a chore to remove safely. I would like some suggestions for how not to break my back and trans-axle parts.

zli944

What's the "Drivetrain support column"?

If you have a jack and a couple people, it shouldn't be so bad. Though you might want to invest in borrowing or buying a hammer bearing tool to remove the pilot bearing from the eccentric shaft. I watched a video of some guys hammering wet paper towels into the hole and pushing the bearing out but I've never tried that personally. I was able to borrow the rotary specific tool from a local performance shop.

BluSpectre

I don't really know what exactly to call it, and calling the large metal beam a "Drivetrain support collumn" seemed appropriate since it's literally a metal support beam that connects the diff to the trans.
So after 2 days of trying, we can't seem to get the bolts off and take way too long doing supposedly easy tasks. For whatever dumb reason, one of the starter bolts is the OEM 14mm and the other is a half-stripped 5/8 SAE head. We can't get that starter bolt off. I have mostly given up, and will probably just call a local shop to do the labor for me. While some work isn't hard to do, we don't have the experience and can't seem to get anything done in a timely manner. I got my new BHR coils though, so that's nice.

BluSpectre

So I finally got that done. New clutch is in, all new parts. The bearing was indeed destroyed. The clutch and pressure plate were healthy, so I could have simply reused them. I test drove it around the block, and it worked fine. But now my SSV is stuck open and car will not idle. Naicu. Now it's time to dig in to that.

BluSpectre

I just went and popped the hood to inspect the lines. I don't see any loose vacuum lines. I was able to rotate the SSV actuator bar-thingy with a screwdriver, and it would snap back to it's original position against the little sensor boot. IDK if that's an open position or closed position, but I can move it with a bit of force and it moves itself back just fine. I read that it should move when I prime the car and when I remove the key, but it did nothing. No noises, clicks or hisses. I haven't tried to restart the car yet, but the issue might have been a 1-time thing. I should probably try to start the car, but I don't want to deal with the engine dying while cold and having to de-flood the engine after a couple failed attempts.

BluSpectre

here are some images of the bearing. It's all sorts of sharp and rough.

BluSpectre

I just came back from replacing the coils with the new BHR ones. Fixed the rich smelling exhaust and no misfires, but the car still idles strange. It even stalled on me when I started the car up (it was still hot, I essentially got back from the city and immediately installed the coils with the engine bay burning hot. My fingertips are singed, but the job was worth it.) and I had to hold the gas the second start to keep the car running until it smoothed itself out. I sus that the SSV got stuck open again for a short bit, but I didn't get a code that time. I made sure I didn't cross coils or wires, as that can also cause the stalling. I can hold the revs at 2,000 and 3,500 without the audible misfires, but the car still does little mini "put" sounds occasionally and seems to cycle through shuddering on idle and running smooth. Additionally, when I left the car to idle to listen to the exhaust and check for excess fumes I could hear small stutters cycling every 3-4 seconds, then disappear, then cycle a few more stutters. the car's tachometer was resting around 800 RPM, as it normally does and without noticeable fluctuations on the gauge. I can't figure out what is causing this idle issue, as during this time I checked if the valve was pressing against the impact switch correctly just in case that valve was still stuck open. The valve was indeed closed and resting against the switch. I'm assuming by this observation that whatever is causing my strange idle is something else... Any suggestions on what to check next would be appreciated...

BluSpectre

Additionally, the SSV being stuck open didn't happen again the next morning. Or later in the next few days. Must've been a one time thing there, but I do plan on cleaning it and getting a new Mishimoto thermostat.

BluSpectre

REEEEE!!! This is the second time I have a code for lean conditions, but the car still has no odd fuel trims on my OBD scanner! I must have a vacuum leak on the SSV solenoid or something...