Need Advise... engine just rebuilt....!!!
#1
Need Advise... engine just rebuilt....!!!
HI,
Need advice;
- my Rx just came out from a complete engine rebuilt - all internal engine parts oem ( Racing beat)
- the 6 fuel injectors were replaced by new
- the 4 oil injectors replaced
- the ignition coils oem C series installed
- the spark plugs replaced by new
- new radiator installed
- new thermostat installed
- uprated 2k starter installed
50 miles after rebuilt
current symptom:
- Car starts fine at cold but no start at hot.and sometimes no start at cold
- car starts if kick started by pushing
- car shuts off when stopped
- on idle engine runs good but when accelerator pressed and released it idles to engine stop
- no engine cut off when accelerating from slow to high speed - 180/190 kmph - up speed is smooth and engine runs as new
- when engine is heated up, half way on gauge, on shutting off the engine, the coolant leaks from the overflow tube
- doing real bad fuel mileage
- no oil leak or water leak
need your advice
cheers...!!!
Need advice;
- my Rx just came out from a complete engine rebuilt - all internal engine parts oem ( Racing beat)
- the 6 fuel injectors were replaced by new
- the 4 oil injectors replaced
- the ignition coils oem C series installed
- the spark plugs replaced by new
- new radiator installed
- new thermostat installed
- uprated 2k starter installed
50 miles after rebuilt
current symptom:
- Car starts fine at cold but no start at hot.and sometimes no start at cold
- car starts if kick started by pushing
- car shuts off when stopped
- on idle engine runs good but when accelerator pressed and released it idles to engine stop
- no engine cut off when accelerating from slow to high speed - 180/190 kmph - up speed is smooth and engine runs as new
- when engine is heated up, half way on gauge, on shutting off the engine, the coolant leaks from the overflow tube
- doing real bad fuel mileage
- no oil leak or water leak
need your advice
cheers...!!!
#4
Blew up water seal due to overheating. Prefered to get a total rebuild.
Injectors connected as per user manual. P1 and p2 checked ok
Changed the radiator cap. Turned our the old one was faulty. No pressure/ vapour coulant loss.
Tested the car 2day when back from wk. Starts perfect but no start when hot. Tried again 1 hour later. Same symptom.
Injectors connected as per user manual. P1 and p2 checked ok
Changed the radiator cap. Turned our the old one was faulty. No pressure/ vapour coulant loss.
Tested the car 2day when back from wk. Starts perfect but no start when hot. Tried again 1 hour later. Same symptom.
#5
Do we have compression issue after rebuild? How long does it last?
Its run only 50 miled since out.
No misfire. No lags on acceleration
Engine does not cut when driving. Its smooth
Its run only 50 miled since out.
No misfire. No lags on acceleration
Engine does not cut when driving. Its smooth
#6
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Drive it for 300-400 miles and give the seals a chance to bed in
OEM Mazda seals can take a bit longer to seal in.
Hopefully you didn't heat it up so bad it warped the housings...but from the sounds of things it just needs some driving
Keep the RPM's low for the first bit...
OEM Mazda seals can take a bit longer to seal in.
Hopefully you didn't heat it up so bad it warped the housings...but from the sounds of things it just needs some driving
Keep the RPM's low for the first bit...
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Z691 (07-01-2017)
#7
Thks... crossing fingers...
Got sme more bits nd pieces comming...
New zl01 maf.
New 2.5 kw n3r3 -18- 400 uprated starter .. mitshubishi
New ecsentric pulley... changing tomorrow
New moshimoto thermostat
New radiator shaft nd fans... main reason of engine heat up befire rebuild. It was Murphy's law that day.
Hope for the best now.
Whr i am, no experienced mechanics for rennys... have to do most by myself...
Cheers
Got sme more bits nd pieces comming...
New zl01 maf.
New 2.5 kw n3r3 -18- 400 uprated starter .. mitshubishi
New ecsentric pulley... changing tomorrow
New moshimoto thermostat
New radiator shaft nd fans... main reason of engine heat up befire rebuild. It was Murphy's law that day.
Hope for the best now.
Whr i am, no experienced mechanics for rennys... have to do most by myself...
Cheers
#9
Changed the eccentric shaft pulley kit by a new one today. Received it this morning.
Bad news ... the main bolt was loose. I unscrewed it by bare hand. Now new one fixed tight. Garage mechanic seems professional now.
Amyways.
Symptoms
- hot start issue still thr
- let it run iddle for abt 1 hr
- when clutch depressed. Engine turns off. Vacuum leak ?
New step.
- just ordered new injector gromets.
Lost one of tht when i removed the injectors. Not sure if the garage mechanic replaced the lost one. Better change all 6
Bad news ... the main bolt was loose. I unscrewed it by bare hand. Now new one fixed tight. Garage mechanic seems professional now.
Amyways.
Symptoms
- hot start issue still thr
- let it run iddle for abt 1 hr
- when clutch depressed. Engine turns off. Vacuum leak ?
New step.
- just ordered new injector gromets.
Lost one of tht when i removed the injectors. Not sure if the garage mechanic replaced the lost one. Better change all 6
#10
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Thks... crossing fingers...
Got sme more bits nd pieces comming...
New zl01 maf.
New 2.5 kw n3r3 -18- 400 uprated starter .. mitshubishi
New ecsentric pulley... changing tomorrow
New moshimoto thermostat
New radiator shaft nd fans... main reason of engine heat up befire rebuild. It was Murphy's law that day.
Hope for the best now.
Whr i am, no experienced mechanics for rennys... have to do most by myself...
Cheers
Got sme more bits nd pieces comming...
New zl01 maf.
New 2.5 kw n3r3 -18- 400 uprated starter .. mitshubishi
New ecsentric pulley... changing tomorrow
New moshimoto thermostat
New radiator shaft nd fans... main reason of engine heat up befire rebuild. It was Murphy's law that day.
Hope for the best now.
Whr i am, no experienced mechanics for rennys... have to do most by myself...
Cheers
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Z691 (07-02-2017)
The following users liked this post:
Z691 (07-02-2017)
#12
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Changed the eccentric shaft pulley kit by a new one today. Received it this morning.
Bad news ... the main bolt was loose. I unscrewed it by bare hand. Now new one fixed tight. Garage mechanic seems professional now.
Amyways.
Symptoms
- hot start issue still thr
- let it run iddle for abt 1 hr
- when clutch depressed. Engine turns off. Vacuum leak ?
New step.
- just ordered new injector gromets.
Lost one of tht when i removed the injectors. Not sure if the garage mechanic replaced the lost one. Better change all 6
Bad news ... the main bolt was loose. I unscrewed it by bare hand. Now new one fixed tight. Garage mechanic seems professional now.
Amyways.
Symptoms
- hot start issue still thr
- let it run iddle for abt 1 hr
- when clutch depressed. Engine turns off. Vacuum leak ?
New step.
- just ordered new injector gromets.
Lost one of tht when i removed the injectors. Not sure if the garage mechanic replaced the lost one. Better change all 6
If the thrust bearings and bits shift it is really easy to fubar things up.
Check that you have some end play on the shaft...otherwise you may have pinched something when you toqued it down
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Z691 (07-02-2017)
#13
I did not rebuilt the engine,did not have time... i wish i did it now.
new eccentric shaft pulley kit fitted properly, as per manual and online guides...no more oil leak from there.
engine starts perfectly from cold, i left it idle for about 2 hours yesterday.
present issue is that when heated up, and clutch depressed to change gear, it dies.
personal diagnostic;
1) vacuum leak
2) engine running too rich- new MAF sensor due shortly
3) primary fuel to air sensor on exhaust manifold either needs cleaning or change
4) issue with main clutch cylinder - got a new one, will change it soon. both master and slave.
5) injector grommets defective - just ordered new ones.
up to now, my personal view is that when on load and clutch engaged, too much fuel in the engine chokes it.
your view and advice are most welcome.
new eccentric shaft pulley kit fitted properly, as per manual and online guides...no more oil leak from there.
engine starts perfectly from cold, i left it idle for about 2 hours yesterday.
present issue is that when heated up, and clutch depressed to change gear, it dies.
personal diagnostic;
1) vacuum leak
2) engine running too rich- new MAF sensor due shortly
3) primary fuel to air sensor on exhaust manifold either needs cleaning or change
4) issue with main clutch cylinder - got a new one, will change it soon. both master and slave.
5) injector grommets defective - just ordered new ones.
up to now, my personal view is that when on load and clutch engaged, too much fuel in the engine chokes it.
your view and advice are most welcome.
#16
rebuilt was done by a local garage, car was always serviced there. basically they were the reference on the island but now i doubt their competence. I'm From Mauritius.
they could not find the problem. i took the car back home.
up to now; i fixed
- the cooling system problem, thermostat and radiator cap faulty, these replaced.
-injector P1 & P2 wiring which they inverted on re-assembly
- ECC pulley kit which was loose
- hard start from cold, now starts on a click.
hot start still an issue and will check on the neutral switch tomorrow.
they could not find the problem. i took the car back home.
up to now; i fixed
- the cooling system problem, thermostat and radiator cap faulty, these replaced.
-injector P1 & P2 wiring which they inverted on re-assembly
- ECC pulley kit which was loose
- hard start from cold, now starts on a click.
hot start still an issue and will check on the neutral switch tomorrow.
#17
How does the neutral switch come in the equation?
- all gears can be shifted and car runs fine, have to do that without rmp going down, feet on the accelerator pedal to stop it from dropping rpm
- only issue is ;
- if clutch depressed when driving, rpm drops and engine shuts down when stopping
- if accelerator pedal is pressed when car is on neutral, rpm drop and chokes the engine.
if engine is started and left on its own, it runs hours without shutting off.. even if clutch is depressed.
lost right now....!!!
- all gears can be shifted and car runs fine, have to do that without rmp going down, feet on the accelerator pedal to stop it from dropping rpm
- only issue is ;
- if clutch depressed when driving, rpm drops and engine shuts down when stopping
- if accelerator pedal is pressed when car is on neutral, rpm drop and chokes the engine.
if engine is started and left on its own, it runs hours without shutting off.. even if clutch is depressed.
lost right now....!!!
Last edited by Z691; 07-03-2017 at 04:07 AM.
#19
Umm... if it is a compression issue,
1- should the engine not stall at certain point when i hit hard on acceleration. I mean i just drove it on highway and the car accelerated smoothly to hit 200kmph. No power loss.
2- on idle i mean neutral...when accelerator depressed. If compression was the issue. Should the engine not stall at certain rmp?
1- should the engine not stall at certain point when i hit hard on acceleration. I mean i just drove it on highway and the car accelerated smoothly to hit 200kmph. No power loss.
2- on idle i mean neutral...when accelerator depressed. If compression was the issue. Should the engine not stall at certain rmp?
#20
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
Not all the time, a low compression engine can drive seemingly normal, it will just make less power. The worse it gets, then the idling and stalling issues will arise if a seal just doesn't let go.
Hard start when hot indicates that it is a compression issue if it starts fine when cold.
Hard start when hot indicates that it is a compression issue if it starts fine when cold.
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Z691 (07-03-2017)
#21
Registered
iTrader: (1)
Umm... if it is a compression issue,
1- should the engine not stall at certain point when i hit hard on acceleration. I mean i just drove it on highway and the car accelerated smoothly to hit 200kmph. No power loss.
2- on idle i mean neutral...when accelerator depressed. If compression was the issue. Should the engine not stall at certain rmp?
1- should the engine not stall at certain point when i hit hard on acceleration. I mean i just drove it on highway and the car accelerated smoothly to hit 200kmph. No power loss.
2- on idle i mean neutral...when accelerator depressed. If compression was the issue. Should the engine not stall at certain rmp?
#22
i guess have to wait till i get another 300-400 mileage completed before hitting the compression test.
engine just rebuilt, only 70 miles on the rebuilt completed.
cheers guys.... !!!
will keep posted on the outcomes....
engine just rebuilt, only 70 miles on the rebuilt completed.
cheers guys.... !!!
will keep posted on the outcomes....
#24
Registered
Changed the eccentric shaft pulley kit by a new one today. Received it this morning.
Bad news ... the main bolt was loose. I unscrewed it by bare hand. Now new one fixed tight. Garage mechanic seems professional now.
Amyways.
Symptoms
- hot start issue still thr
- let it run iddle for abt 1 hr
- when clutch depressed. Engine turns off. Vacuum leak ?
New step.
- just ordered new injector gromets.
Lost one of tht when i removed the injectors. Not sure if the garage mechanic replaced the lost one. Better change all 6
Bad news ... the main bolt was loose. I unscrewed it by bare hand. Now new one fixed tight. Garage mechanic seems professional now.
Amyways.
Symptoms
- hot start issue still thr
- let it run iddle for abt 1 hr
- when clutch depressed. Engine turns off. Vacuum leak ?
New step.
- just ordered new injector gromets.
Lost one of tht when i removed the injectors. Not sure if the garage mechanic replaced the lost one. Better change all 6
If I were you I would pull the front driver tire, pull the fuel pump fuse, pull the 4 plugs, and use a simply compression tester to see what your max pressure is in each rotor. It should only takes 15-20 minutes and give you a good snapshot of whats going on in that motor....
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Z691 (07-08-2017)
#25
Registered
Go drive the car for a couple hundred miles and then get a compression check before you throw anymore money at it guessing.
More then likely though its a compression issue sadly, my 04 would start fine cold but once she was warmed up on a hot day I would have to let the car cool down for 15 minutes before it would restart.
Good luck, did this shop have any experience REBUILDING rotary engines or had they just worked on rx's before?
More then likely though its a compression issue sadly, my 04 would start fine cold but once she was warmed up on a hot day I would have to let the car cool down for 15 minutes before it would restart.
Good luck, did this shop have any experience REBUILDING rotary engines or had they just worked on rx's before?
The following users liked this post:
Z691 (07-08-2017)