In_Experienced

I have no idea where and how all the wires that go from the negative terminal go, if someone could help me figure out where the negative terminal wires connect to it would be much appreciated, and I was curious if there’s a way to turn off limp mode?
(slow acceleration, stuck at 4K ish rpm’s)
thanks for the help anyone

Left4Dead

Generally if the car is running in limp mode its because it has a problem. Are there any codes ? Wiring is not going to make a car run like that , if the wiring were incorrect it would just not start at all.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Limp mode is caused by an OMP problem. You may not get a code for it, not every reader understands the Mazda-specific codes for it. If the OMP has been removed ever, it needs to be put back with everything inside in the correct orientation. Otherwise it could be the wires to the OMP.

I don't know them all by heart but battery negative goes to grounding points. One is right below the intake on the crossmember there, I imagine the other has to be on the engine block somewhere.

In_Experienced

Okay I figured out the omp problem, I didn’t get a code for that but the omp broke in half and the connector was separated from the actual omp part but I will send i picture of the wires I need help with later tonight when I can. I did have a surplus of codes though

In_Experienced

So odd situation too, I have manual swapped my automatic hence some of the codes but would any of these codes make limp mode turn on?

jamyers9902

I am having the same problem. At start up the car will rev past 4k, but after a few seconds it won't go past 4k. Oil metering pump OMP is my next item to check. Can someone offer me some guidance on what to look for besides the obvious connection? Thanks!

In_Experienced

Do you have any engine code?

jamyers9902

No code

In_Experienced

okay, from my understanding the big things for limp mode that I could find are a missing or malfunctioning tcm but it should throw a code, a bad front o2 censor that’s on the exhaust headers I believe, and a bad oil metering pump

Loki

iTrader: (1)

No code but the light is on, or no light?

The OMP connection is one thing, the OMP itself being installed correctly is the other. If someone removed it and then put it back with the output gear rotated, then when the computer tries to turn the OMP it will hit the limit unexpectedly.

It's also possible the OMP motor and electronics have gotten wet from a breeched seal. You could try to take it all apart, but the key will be to put it back together properly. So start by the easy, outside stuff

jamyers9902

Thanks! The o2 sensor was on my short list as well. Appreciate the response and will update once I get to checking things out further.

jamyers9902

The engine light is on, no codes.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

No codes means your reader can't read the OMP specific codes. So it's the OMP

jamyers9902

Is it ok to drive in limp mode for a few miles to by buddy's shop to work on? Appreciate the help!

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Yeah should be fine. May want to add a bit of premix oil since it5not clear what's going on with the OMP. In theory it should overoil in case of failure, but who knows.

jamyers9902

Replaced the omp and all is good now. Couple of other issues to deal with, but it runs great now. Thanks for the help!