Need recommendations for my 04 rx-8
#1
Need recommendations for my 04 rx-8
So I just purchased my second vehicle at the age of 17. It's my first ever manual. I bought a 2004 Mazda RX-8, definitely a unique vehicle. It's a 6 speed with 70k miles on it. A week after I bought it the engine needed to be replaced so I haven't been able to drive it cause they are looking for another engine to put in my car. luckily for me the car came with a 3 month warranty so I don't pay anything out of my pocket.
But I wanted to know some basics like what I should start off doing to the car. What Mods I should get and what Mods to stay away from for this specific vehicle. The car is 100% stock right now. I do want a after market exhaust system which I definitely need a recommendation on which kind to get that isn't too pricey cause i'm only 17 getting paid minimum wage. What cool air intake to get, shift ****... General stuff like that. Any help and tips would be greatly appreciated!
But I wanted to know some basics like what I should start off doing to the car. What Mods I should get and what Mods to stay away from for this specific vehicle. The car is 100% stock right now. I do want a after market exhaust system which I definitely need a recommendation on which kind to get that isn't too pricey cause i'm only 17 getting paid minimum wage. What cool air intake to get, shift ****... General stuff like that. Any help and tips would be greatly appreciated!
#2
Dark Moderator
iTrader: (18)
RE,
First off, Welcome.
Start your adventure by reading the links within my SIG.
The New and potential owners thread is a must.
I would say for intake, either AEM, Masdaspeed (if you can find one)
Or leave it stock. Mazda did a pretty good job with that aspect of the car.
The ignition is a known weak point. I would suggest BHR'S solution.
The Sohn adapter is also a good idea. It allows you to inject clean two stroke into the engine instead of dirty conventional.
I would also premix. This allows you to add additional lubrication and cooling to the apex seals.
Exhaust is always personal preference. I have an AP midpipe and stock catback.
Read read read and enjoy the forum.
Whoever is installing this motor make sure they check the CAT.
Is it a used motor or a Reman?
Travis
First off, Welcome.
Start your adventure by reading the links within my SIG.
The New and potential owners thread is a must.
I would say for intake, either AEM, Masdaspeed (if you can find one)
Or leave it stock. Mazda did a pretty good job with that aspect of the car.
The ignition is a known weak point. I would suggest BHR'S solution.
The Sohn adapter is also a good idea. It allows you to inject clean two stroke into the engine instead of dirty conventional.
I would also premix. This allows you to add additional lubrication and cooling to the apex seals.
Exhaust is always personal preference. I have an AP midpipe and stock catback.
Read read read and enjoy the forum.
Whoever is installing this motor make sure they check the CAT.
Is it a used motor or a Reman?
Travis
#3
Thanks for the welcome. Just wondering could you explain the whole BHR's solution?
And for exhaust I was looking at the TurboXS catback.
Last I heard from him he said he was looking for a used one
And for exhaust I was looking at the TurboXS catback.
Last I heard from him he said he was looking for a used one
#4
Dark Moderator
iTrader: (18)
Okay, with a used motor make sure you get a Rotary specific compression test done once it's installed.
Blackhaloracing.com< click products and look for the ignition kit.
Their are a few other kits around, I use this and like it quite well. As do many others.
I called it the solution because the RX8's ignition is a problem.
As for the exhaust like I said it's all personal preference.
Travis
Blackhaloracing.com< click products and look for the ignition kit.
Their are a few other kits around, I use this and like it quite well. As do many others.
I called it the solution because the RX8's ignition is a problem.
As for the exhaust like I said it's all personal preference.
Travis
#5
40th anniversary Edition
If you read through the new owners thread and come to ignition solutions there is a whole discussion on ignition coil choices. BHR makes high quality upgraded coils,and wires. They are know for their durability and should last the lifetime of your car, whereas the OEM coils need to be replaced every 30,000 miles or less. You pay more for the BHR coils but they are worth every penny. Just remember to always change the plugs every 12-15,000 miles and also change the coils, wires and plugs together.
The condition of all your ignition components is critical to the health of your rotary engine and cat. Any one part deficient, coils, plugs, wires can start a cascade of problems with performance and ultimately can help cause engine failure and cat failure.
Take a day and read completely through the new owners thread, you will understand better how your car works and how to keep it healthy and running for a long time.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
The condition of all your ignition components is critical to the health of your rotary engine and cat. Any one part deficient, coils, plugs, wires can start a cascade of problems with performance and ultimately can help cause engine failure and cat failure.
Take a day and read completely through the new owners thread, you will understand better how your car works and how to keep it healthy and running for a long time.
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
#7
Registered
Not exactly ... you probably will never have to replace the coils. You're still gonna have to replace the plugs about every 25K miles. Inspect the wires when you replace the plugs and replace as necessary.
While you're at the BHR site, check out their midpipe with resonator ... sweet, sweet sound.
#8
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
+1^
Welcome.
I have the BHR Midpipe and ignition kit.
Given your budget restraints, I think you should start with OEM coils, plugs & wires, and invest in a BHR midpipe.
These will get you going and eliminate two related causes of engine failure.
The ignition kit and intakes are nice add ons, but unless you have a couple thousand dollars to throw around, that can wait.
Don't be in a hurry to do too many mods just yet, problems have a way of popping up with 10 year old 8s.
I bought mine with only 18k on it, and in the 3 years I've had it, it needed a battery, a cat, and the fuel pump went out.
Plus all the usual expense of premixing, frequent oil changes, premium gas, and all the other maintenance requirements.
It adds up quick.
They require more rigid maintenance than most cars.
If your engine is bad, bat catalytic converters are a leading reason.
People don't maintain their ignition, and misfires occur.
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
I suggest you that you wait until you get it running and give it a shakedown period of a few months to see if anything else happens.
Good luck!
Welcome.
I have the BHR Midpipe and ignition kit.
Given your budget restraints, I think you should start with OEM coils, plugs & wires, and invest in a BHR midpipe.
These will get you going and eliminate two related causes of engine failure.
The ignition kit and intakes are nice add ons, but unless you have a couple thousand dollars to throw around, that can wait.
Don't be in a hurry to do too many mods just yet, problems have a way of popping up with 10 year old 8s.
I bought mine with only 18k on it, and in the 3 years I've had it, it needed a battery, a cat, and the fuel pump went out.
Plus all the usual expense of premixing, frequent oil changes, premium gas, and all the other maintenance requirements.
It adds up quick.
They require more rigid maintenance than most cars.
If your engine is bad, bat catalytic converters are a leading reason.
People don't maintain their ignition, and misfires occur.
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
I suggest you that you wait until you get it running and give it a shakedown period of a few months to see if anything else happens.
Good luck!
#9
Water Foul
In addition to the good advice already given, this thread contains a wealth of information about modding the 8:
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...rx-8-a-233937/
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...rx-8-a-233937/
#10
40th anniversary Edition
BigCajun you usually have good advice, but don't tell the OP it will cost thousands for the BHR coils and an AEM intake, you know it doesn't cost anywhere near that much for either or both total. He can go on their sites and see for himself it doesn't cost thousands.
#11
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
I wasn't being literal.
I meant all that he mentioned, aftermarket exhaust, intake, then some of the other things mentioned.
A couple of thousand to throw around meaning being able to afford the mods AND upkeep of a car with as of yet unknown issues.
#12
+1^
Welcome.
I have the BHR Midpipe and ignition kit.
Given your budget restraints, I think you should start with OEM coils, plugs & wires, and invest in a BHR midpipe.
These will get you going and eliminate two related causes of engine failure.
The ignition kit and intakes are nice add ons, but unless you have a couple thousand dollars to throw around, that can wait.
Don't be in a hurry to do too many mods just yet, problems have a way of popping up with 10 year old 8s.
I bought mine with only 18k on it, and in the 3 years I've had it, it needed a battery, a cat, and the fuel pump went out.
Plus all the usual expense of premixing, frequent oil changes, premium gas, and all the other maintenance requirements.
It adds up quick.
They require more rigid maintenance than most cars.
If your engine is bad, bat catalytic converters are a leading reason.
People don't maintain their ignition, and misfires occur.
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
I suggest you that you wait until you get it running and give it a shakedown period of a few months to see if anything else happens.
Good luck!
Welcome.
I have the BHR Midpipe and ignition kit.
Given your budget restraints, I think you should start with OEM coils, plugs & wires, and invest in a BHR midpipe.
These will get you going and eliminate two related causes of engine failure.
The ignition kit and intakes are nice add ons, but unless you have a couple thousand dollars to throw around, that can wait.
Don't be in a hurry to do too many mods just yet, problems have a way of popping up with 10 year old 8s.
I bought mine with only 18k on it, and in the 3 years I've had it, it needed a battery, a cat, and the fuel pump went out.
Plus all the usual expense of premixing, frequent oil changes, premium gas, and all the other maintenance requirements.
It adds up quick.
They require more rigid maintenance than most cars.
If your engine is bad, bat catalytic converters are a leading reason.
People don't maintain their ignition, and misfires occur.
Misfires kill cats, bad cats kill engines.
I suggest you that you wait until you get it running and give it a shakedown period of a few months to see if anything else happens.
Good luck!
#13
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
Yes, the BHR Midpipe I have is catless. It's a bolt on, direct fit pipe, and sounds really good with the stock muffler, imo.
There is a model with a cat.
Many of us choose catless for performance and peace of mind, as it is an infamous weak point.
Ignition components have to be working properly to get long life from a cat.
There is a model with a cat.
Many of us choose catless for performance and peace of mind, as it is an infamous weak point.
Ignition components have to be working properly to get long life from a cat.
#14
Yes, the BHR Midpipe I have is catless. It's a bolt on, direct fit pipe, and sounds really good with the stock muffler, imo.
There is a model with a cat.
Many of us choose catless for performance and peace of mind, as it is an infamous weak point.
Ignition components have to be working properly to get long life from a cat.
There is a model with a cat.
Many of us choose catless for performance and peace of mind, as it is an infamous weak point.
Ignition components have to be working properly to get long life from a cat.
#15
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
No, I would get the midpipe first.
It is a bolt on, direct fit pipe with an 02 sensor bung.
The pipe will eliminate the possibility of cat failure, which can damage your engine.
You can survive misfires without a cat, (plus cool flames )
If you HAVE to have a cat, (Cali.) then I would recommend the kit.
The pipe and the kit are $500 each, more for the kit with the plugs.
I suggested that if you are on a budget, buy the pipe first.
Get regular OEM coils , plugs & wires to give you time to buy the ignition kit or any other mods you are considering.
If you do get the ignition kit you can keep the regular coils and put them back on your 8 if you decide to sell it.
The kit and midpipe are valuable commodities, even used.
I'm just saying bide your time, and be sure you don't have any important things you'll need to fix first.
Things like brakes, radiator, and A.C.
It is a bolt on, direct fit pipe with an 02 sensor bung.
The pipe will eliminate the possibility of cat failure, which can damage your engine.
You can survive misfires without a cat, (plus cool flames )
If you HAVE to have a cat, (Cali.) then I would recommend the kit.
The pipe and the kit are $500 each, more for the kit with the plugs.
I suggested that if you are on a budget, buy the pipe first.
Get regular OEM coils , plugs & wires to give you time to buy the ignition kit or any other mods you are considering.
If you do get the ignition kit you can keep the regular coils and put them back on your 8 if you decide to sell it.
The kit and midpipe are valuable commodities, even used.
I'm just saying bide your time, and be sure you don't have any important things you'll need to fix first.
Things like brakes, radiator, and A.C.
#16
No, I would get the midpipe first.
It is a bolt on, direct fit pipe with an 02 sensor bung.
The pipe will eliminate the possibility of cat failure, which can damage your engine.
You can survive misfires without a cat, (plus cool flames )
If you HAVE to have a cat, (Cali.) then I would recommend the kit.
The pipe and the kit are $500 each, more for the kit with the plugs.
I suggested that if you are on a budget, buy the pipe first.
Get regular OEM coils , plugs & wires to give you time to buy the ignition kit or any other mods you are considering.
If you do get the ignition kit you can keep the regular coils and put them back on your 8 if you decide to sell it.
The kit and midpipe are valuable commodities, even used.
I'm just saying bide your time, and be sure you don't have any important things you'll need to fix first.
Things like brakes, radiator, and A.C.
It is a bolt on, direct fit pipe with an 02 sensor bung.
The pipe will eliminate the possibility of cat failure, which can damage your engine.
You can survive misfires without a cat, (plus cool flames )
If you HAVE to have a cat, (Cali.) then I would recommend the kit.
The pipe and the kit are $500 each, more for the kit with the plugs.
I suggested that if you are on a budget, buy the pipe first.
Get regular OEM coils , plugs & wires to give you time to buy the ignition kit or any other mods you are considering.
If you do get the ignition kit you can keep the regular coils and put them back on your 8 if you decide to sell it.
The kit and midpipe are valuable commodities, even used.
I'm just saying bide your time, and be sure you don't have any important things you'll need to fix first.
Things like brakes, radiator, and A.C.
As far as fixing things in my car, luckily for me the 3 month warranty is saving my pockets an IDEAL amount of cash. Anything that pops up wrong with the car I just take it back to where I purchased it and they replace it for free. They already put in a new radiator, fixed some a/c leak, and replaced the crankshaft sensor. I haven't driven the car in over a week now because it was misfiring and now they are looking for that engine to put in so it could be a while till I drive it again.
#17
Oh and also what order should I go in? Midpipe, ignition kit, then air intake? I have the money for all 3 but I don't want to drop it all at once I want to take it nice and slow and build up the car.
#18
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
The plugs from BHR are the OEM NGKs laser iridium plugs.
That would be the order I would do it in.
Take advantage of the info here.
Anything you want to know is here.
Good luck!
That would be the order I would do it in.
Take advantage of the info here.
Anything you want to know is here.
Good luck!
#19
Water Foul
If you have a good OEM intake on the car now, there is no value in "upgrading" it to aftermarket. It is already a cold air intake. The only reason to do it is for the sound if that is important to you. The performance gains are almost nil. If you simply must "upgrade" it, the only viable options are AEM and Racing Beat.
#20
You gonna eat that?
iTrader: (1)
It occurred to me that before you do any mods, you should be sure that the warranty you have expires or that anything you do before the warranty is up does not void it.
#21
If you have a good OEM intake on the car now, there is no value in "upgrading" it to aftermarket. It is already a cold air intake. The only reason to do it is for the sound if that is important to you. The performance gains are almost nil. If you simply must "upgrade" it, the only viable options are AEM and Racing Beat.
#22
It expires in August and Before I do each mod I'll ask him about it. And actually I think he will be doing the work on my car for my mods although I'd rather do them myself.
#23
Scrappy
iTrader: (1)
I got my 8 a year ago yesterday, but I was 19.
Honestly you should skip on the exhaust and intake for now. Go for a commission test, get a new ignition (either BHR or that sick new SakeBomb set), and get a flash tuner (Mazdaedit+Tactrix is decidedly the way to go at this point).
After you have those work on learning how to fix the crap that breaks in your first year of ownership. I can garuntee that you'll have to tear apart 30% of that car in the next 8 months. Ignition is a priority, tuning is secondary, and exhaust/intake mods are tertiary.
Honestly you should skip on the exhaust and intake for now. Go for a commission test, get a new ignition (either BHR or that sick new SakeBomb set), and get a flash tuner (Mazdaedit+Tactrix is decidedly the way to go at this point).
After you have those work on learning how to fix the crap that breaks in your first year of ownership. I can garuntee that you'll have to tear apart 30% of that car in the next 8 months. Ignition is a priority, tuning is secondary, and exhaust/intake mods are tertiary.
#25
I got my 8 a year ago yesterday, but I was 19.
Honestly you should skip on the exhaust and intake for now. Go for a commission test, get a new ignition (either BHR or that sick new SakeBomb set), and get a flash tuner (Mazdaedit+Tactrix is decidedly the way to go at this point).
After you have those work on learning how to fix the crap that breaks in your first year of ownership. I can garuntee that you'll have to tear apart 30% of that car in the next 8 months. Ignition is a priority, tuning is secondary, and exhaust/intake mods are tertiary.
Honestly you should skip on the exhaust and intake for now. Go for a commission test, get a new ignition (either BHR or that sick new SakeBomb set), and get a flash tuner (Mazdaedit+Tactrix is decidedly the way to go at this point).
After you have those work on learning how to fix the crap that breaks in your first year of ownership. I can garuntee that you'll have to tear apart 30% of that car in the next 8 months. Ignition is a priority, tuning is secondary, and exhaust/intake mods are tertiary.