Amalfik

First, im sorry for my bad english , try do my best.
In general, I watched this forum for a long time and another one in the Russia(because I live in the USA / New Jersey, but my original country Ukraine / Russia (better lang understand), in search of a solution to the problems that appeared.

Before you start reading, please take a note, I'm not a mechanic, I have a Dodge grand caravan 2016 car, I do everything myself (brakes, oil, suspension)

But the experience of communicating with machines is only 1.5 years

This Mazda took purely for fun (before that he took at the auction dodge journey 2009, painted, repaired a little, sold and accidentally caught this Mazda)

Full story:

I bought a Mazda Rx8 2004 (automatic) in June for $ 1200 (parents sold, son died, the car didn’t start even) played a little roulette.

We brought her home and couldn’t start it. In the morning I went to load Battery, then car started (it was visible as the engine was running with wobling, the car barely drove on the first one (well, car stay 8 month ) then it started . die after half a mile, it died when change from R to D (but started).

I turned it over there, turned it, turned it, set it.

I ordered myself spark / wires



The car began to start normally, it was already better for her, but it showed that she wanted oil. Topped up half a liter (the one need, like 5w-20)

The check engine caught fire, read the code = solenoid



In the interval I measured the compression (I'm not sure that it really is, but it showed 6 and 4)



I bought 3 pieces https://www.ebay.com/itm/FM-US-New-E...72.m2749.l2649

Changed, the check is gone, everything is buzzing.

The car still drove very hard, according to the symptoms I realized that it was a catalytic

I bought a new https://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-2005-2...72.m2749.l2649

car start drive 100% better near before ( i do circle like 1-2 miles )but still does not start on a hot

About error only the level of the coolant is lit(light on dashbord, i think they broken sensor)



What I have not done yet is oil change.



I know I know after the compression 6 and 4 (although this is not accurate) everyone will say throw out the engine, but I ask for advice except for the throw / rebuild

I heard about sizing, but I'm not sure if it will help, if so, can I somehow video? the pictures are difficult to och



According to the list, I want to do more

Oil change (not yet selected)

filter https: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Denso-Oil-F...x/303115732031

Then I want to change Maf because I will take a new air intake

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Mass-Air-Fl...0/263075717012

https://www.ebay.com/itm/401517727416

coolant temp sensor

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Coolant-Tem...a/131255451820


new catalytic sensor (because the new cat is standing and the sensor is old)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Before-...8/222070184031

ignition coil pack

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MAZDA-RX8-C...1/321951525076





Advise which oil is better to pour, an American car with 60,000 miles, but on a carfax is empty on this car.What i know , The car was bought from a dealer with 57,000 miles , then the guy drove 3,000 and went into another world (blessed memory of him)

but the parents said he was very tormented with her. then the father drove to the dealer, the dealer said a new motor.





At the moment, the car starts and drives (drove a couple of miles, does not stall after everything I did, but does not start on a hot)

I heard that you can put a 2 kW starter and it starts up, is it? (I do not want to waste 100 bucks to the wind)

I also heard that oil is poured into the tank, please advise which is better to pour.



Any advice recommendations help host. Those who started writing, stop saying put motor in garbage, I'm ready for the rebuild (there is everything for this), but I try to start small and finish if it is already necessary. I want drive at this car on rotor engine(yes yes its pain in ***)


Money is not a problem, MB is not all at once, but I buy everything.



Thank you, Regards, Ruslan.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

ill try to simplify this. the 2004-2005 automatic rx8s pretty much suck. lower redline, less horse power and its a 4 port engine which mazda only used for two years. they are the most expensive to rebuild/get a reman from mazda. that said lack of maintence leads to a lot of failed engines and the ecu flash on the early cars had to updated to turn up the oil metering pump. rotary cars burn oil by design so you have to always pop the hood and read the dipstick. bad ignition (coils plugs, wires) kills the cat converter and bad cats kill engines. if you have low compression the only option is a rebuild/reman. i dont remember if they make a a bigger started for the autos. i know the 2kw is availiable for manual cars.

please read the new owners threads and learn how a rotary works

hope this hepls

Amalfik

Thank you for your reply, i reading every day this forum and russian (this forum is much more bigger) , try learn this engine step by step.
Hope find some good solution. About 2kW starter, i find https://www.ebay.com/itm/252819816430 for AT
Now in plan do list what i write before , plus termostat replace , full replace coolant system, new starter , then see how they going

P.S did some one know anything about 2T oil adapter( im not sure how they call clear at english , its i try translate from russia)
this adapter after install give more oil to engine

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

a faster spinning starter is a band aid (not a real fix) for a low compression engine

Amalfik

i Know about this . in russia ppl use 2kW starter for just sell car . I just try drive maybe a litt at this car before do rebuild

Against about compression i try find professional ( i use regular tool)
Because not look like car die. Drive good , no problem (only one , not start at hot)

CaymanRotary

When you say “6 and 4” in regards to your compression test do you mean 6 bar on one rotor, 4 bar on the other rotor? You are wasting your money unless you intend to rebuild or replace the engine sometime soon down the line. Doesn’t sound good from what I’ve read.

Amalfik

Yes , I mean 6 bar at first , 4 bar at second rotor .
i understand about rebuild , but I don’t understand why car still drive okay if compression so low . I think I can start car when engine hot , if install 2kw starter , but I don’t do this .
already looking rebuild kit . Any recommendations?

CaymanRotary

What rpm is the starter cranking? Are you testing while the engine is hot? You have to normalize the numbers to 250 rpm. You should have the car properly tested but the fact you are having hot start problems is a concern. Before spending any money on this car, have it properly tested with a rotary compression tester at operating temperature.

your three main concerns are making sure you have above 6 bar on each rotor face minimum when normalized to 250 rpm. You also want to check your oil and coolant to make sure they aren’t mixing to ensure your coolant seals are still good (can inspect spark plugs for signs of coolant). Also, check for any oil leak between the transmission and the engine. From experience, those engines have life in them as long as everything else checks out. If it doesn’t, you are looking at major dollars to rebuild or replace.

Amalfik

Starter rmp when I check compression between 230-242( it’s max what I see ) I have scanner and he show me rmp

i check compression when engine work like 30 min
Don’t drive , car just stay at driveway)

Amalfik

I use this item for check compression

car warm , remove bracket for gas pump? ( I’m not sure how they call correct ( just remove 2 bracket ) push gas full , and try start engine 5-10 sec

CaymanRotary

So, you want to measure pulses and peak compression if using a standard tester. Driven by Madness made a good video showing how to do it. When you get the numbers report back on your findings. Make sure no oil or internal coolant leaks.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Passing compression is more like 7 bar.
On a rotary compression increases with engine speed, so compression problems manifest first as not starting when hot. Hot because heat expansion wides existing clearances.
It drives fine because at idle and above it's turning fast enough to maintain compression.

As it continues to deteriorate, it will eventually start stalling any time you slow down and not restart until cooled down.

I wouldn't spend any more time and money on it, sell it for parts to recoup your costs. It's not worth rebuilding the engine in an automatic, you'll never make back the cost.

You don't need to change the MAF or the O2 sensors if there are no codes. Save the $200

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

+1^
You mentioned getting an intake.
If you have the OEM intake, DO NOT get another one.
It's a very good intake, and others can cause many problems.
Things you can do that don't cost a lot and may help for now, use Google search to find thread subject, like;

"RX8 CLUB, Cleaning MAF sensor"

Disconnect battery for safety, be sure you DON'T CROSS BATTERY TERMINALS, VERY BAD!

Take the intake off, check it and the air filter for oil, they sometimes get overfilled and that causes problems.
Clean the intake & MAF sensor with MAF cleaner, NOT brake cleaner, and install new paper air filter.

Clean the ESS (Eccentric Shaft Sensor)

Then hook up battery and reset the NVRAM,
"20 brake pedal stomp"

Get a HEI Ignition tester, to check coils.

If you need any coils do not buy ebay.
Go to a parts store like Advance Auto or AutoZone.
If you can drive the 8 there, get the OBD codes scanned free.

Be aware most aftermarket cats do not last, especially if you have misfires.
I suggest gutting your bad cat for now until you get a better idea of your problems.

Good luck!

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

If you can you should return the intake and coils.
Ebay parts are often not good, and I can promise you a $62 intake is junk.

CaymanRotary

6.8 bar @ 250 rpm is passing although I've never had any issues as long as it's over 6. I ran an RX8 for a year daily driving with 6.1's and 6.3's.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Sweet jesus, do not install that intake. This isnt a Civic, the stock intake is already cold air and was properly designed at the factory.

Amalfik

thank you guys for your answers, I really appreciate it.
First about air intake , when I buy car , I don’t have original , here something like I want to buy , but what I have now it’s super crazy loud .

about MAF I know about cleaner , maybe it’s make a sense, just clean old one . About air intake , again I have some terrible loud ( I upload picture later )

about check compression , I try do it at weekend , follow video what you send me .

About airintake against ( I don’t buy it , all list at end my original post , it’s what I want to buy in future )

coil in its you mean spark plugs ? Or you mean ignition yellow coils ?

At Russian forum ppl say try replace apex , or anyway do rebuild , why you think rebuild at 2004 at waste money ?

CaymanRotary

The Mazda ignition coils are black. If yours are yellow then you have aftermarket ones that suck. For ignition system you have coils, spark plugs and wires.

Because your car is an automatic. It's not desirable. You are better off getting rid of this car because you'll never get the money your going to spend on it back.

200.mph

iTrader: (9)

rebuilding an 2004-2005 automatic rx8 is a waste of time and money in my opinion. there is zero intrest in them and they are the most expensive to rebuild.

as far as the intake get an oem one, check the for sale section here but dont waste money until you actually have accurate rotary specific compression test #s

yes they mean dont buy ebay coils, they are usually junk

UnknownJinX

Well, you know the solution, but if you refuse to actually go through with it, then I don't know what to say.

You said you have the money, so just rebuild the engine. If your compression is in the 4~6 range, hot start with a 2kW starter will still be hard.

BTW, 200 is correct about the early automatics. They are pretty undesirable and so you need to weigh your options here. IMO unless you are disabled or live in a place where traffic is just that bad, buy a manual because it's the full experience. You might actually have better luck selling a broken automatic RX-8 for cheap, as people who do engine swaps don't need the old engine and transmission anyway.

Some other things:

- Unless you are having problems with the current MAF, you don't need to waste money on a new one.

- Getting a used stock intake is the best for the buck.

- "Pouring oil in the gas tank" means premixing. You can buy some 2-stroke oil(not the 4-stroke oil you put in the engine) and then pour it into the gas tank to aid lubrication. Anything with JASO FC or JASO FD certification will do.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

How many rebuilds have the people who are making suggestions done? And how many of those rebuilds are still running?

Here's the thing: apex seals are only sometimes the problem. Sometimes its side seals. Often it's both. Once you open the engine you may find that the housings have flaked, which means they need to also be replaced. Good luck finding those in good condition because the 2004-2005 automatic engine is different from all other RX8 engines and no longer produced.

So you're looking at $2000 in parts if all goes well, plus your time to perform the rebuild, plus the very high risk that you won't do everything exactly right on your first rebuild and need ANOTHER rebuild in 6 months.

Think you can sell the car at sufficient price to pay for all that?

If you want an RX8, find a manual one and you'll have a lot more options.

Also, the catalytic you put on there isn't going to live long. Maybe a year. Maybe a couple of weeks if you don't replace the ignition coils. You need the factory catalytic, most of the aftermarket ones aren't designed for RX8 exhaust heat..

CaymanRotary

Hammer meet nail. Spot on advice for TS.

Amalfik

Hammer meet nail. Spot on advice for TS.


Russian never give up lol

Amalfik

Got you, already looking original air intake. thank you.

Amalfik

Okay, i think i just buy original black.

About money back from this car, i dont care about this. If i need spend 10000$ and 1 year my life , i do this , because i want , and i see in this situation something what interesting for me. I can sell this car easy with double profit now , but ...... i want this car