Need some help not your typical low rpm issue
#1
Need some help not your typical low rpm issue
Ok so Yes I am new to this forum but not to the rotor. So the issue is this slow cranking on both cold and warm. Car idles fine but when put into gear idles low and stalls unless I reset trims (20 brake stomp) The rev in park or neutral is fine but sluggish below 2k but does not really jump around or hunt. My rx is a 2005 and this is the list of cleaned / replaced:
New Plugs (ngk)
New wires (msd)
New cols (not sure of brand came from auto part store)
Cleaned Maf
Cleaned Throttle body
checked and gutted cat (figured why not)
teseted new coils to verify not DOA
Compression test (high 7's and low 8"s)
sprayed carb cleaner all around bay to find vac leaks (no luck)
Cleaned and reset ess (battery disconnect)
Edit:
77,xxx Miles
Automatic trans
Motor was seafoamed and compression test done before and after (slight change not much to note)
New Plugs (ngk)
New wires (msd)
New cols (not sure of brand came from auto part store)
Cleaned Maf
Cleaned Throttle body
checked and gutted cat (figured why not)
teseted new coils to verify not DOA
Compression test (high 7's and low 8"s)
sprayed carb cleaner all around bay to find vac leaks (no luck)
Cleaned and reset ess (battery disconnect)
Edit:
77,xxx Miles
Automatic trans
Motor was seafoamed and compression test done before and after (slight change not much to note)
Last edited by rotorsnsaabs; 07-31-2015 at 01:13 PM.
#4
auto right? How old is fluid in trans?
Also, after a reset, did you let the ECU learn for 2 drive cycles? Start car, leave out of gear, let it idle until it warms up completely and the idle drops to 800 or so. Then drive. Do the same thing the next day.
Also, after a reset, did you let the ECU learn for 2 drive cycles? Start car, leave out of gear, let it idle until it warms up completely and the idle drops to 800 or so. Then drive. Do the same thing the next day.
#7
Generating Power at Full Throttle
Ignition Coils
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Engine Compression
E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
Air Filter
Intake Valving
Throttle Body
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Fuel Pump
Fuel Injectors
Catalytic Converter (Cat)
Keeping the Engine at a Cruise
Ignition Coils
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Engine Compression
E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
Intake Valving
Throttle Body
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Fuel Pump
Fuel Injectors
Front O2 sensor
Catalytic Converter (Cat)
Keeping the Engine at an Idle
Ignition Coils
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Engine Compression
E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Front O2 sensor
Catalytic Converter (Cat)
Intake Vaccum
Ignition Coils
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Engine Compression
E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
Air Filter
Intake Valving
Throttle Body
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Fuel Pump
Fuel Injectors
Catalytic Converter (Cat)
Keeping the Engine at a Cruise
Ignition Coils
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Engine Compression
E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
Intake Valving
Throttle Body
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Fuel Pump
Fuel Injectors
Front O2 sensor
Catalytic Converter (Cat)
Keeping the Engine at an Idle
Ignition Coils
Spark Plugs
Spark Plug Wires
Engine Compression
E-Shaft Sensor (ESS)
Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF)
Front O2 sensor
Catalytic Converter (Cat)
Intake Vaccum
#8
Ok so thought I would update everyone. Still having the issues but now worse. The car was running fine but had to be put into park when I would stop at light I drove it like this for the last few weeks. But then all of a sudden when I go to park it just dies. When I try to start it, it sounds like to plugs are not firing and the rotors are spinning faster. so I figure the only thing that controls spark other then the coils is the ESS so... So down to the parts store and bring back a new sensor. Now installed it starts I feel awsome until I put into drive and it dies again, I try to start it and same sound as before. Ok so not kicking a code but is kicking pending codes for P0171 leanand a rear O2 sensor slow code (but I am running a catless midpipe so that one is explained). So I took apart the UIM and checked for leaks, vac test everything (nothing failed) and put back together and cleared computers (batt and brake stomp) the car starts but dog slow then dies. By dog slow I mean foot to the floor and cant get over 3 mph I can rev to redline but like there is no power below 3k. Only thing I can think is the fuel pump will be testing pressure next. Now when I do get it to start can barley get it to rev and if I let off it just dies. PLEASE HELP this beast hates me
Last edited by rotorsnsaabs; 08-24-2015 at 11:17 PM.
#9
What brand coils? Since you have dome compression test with decent numbers, it has to be one of three things, fuel, spark or air. Any 2005 with original fuel pump is overdue for a replacement. Did you say how many original miles the car has?
My guess, fuel pump, and/or fuel injectors.
My guess, fuel pump, and/or fuel injectors.
#10
The car has 77,xxx miles. The coils are oem from orielly's not sure of the brand but I have taken them back twice and swapped just to check if it was the coils and it is the same symptoms right after instal, I have also changed between 3 sets of plugs and 2 sets of wires just to check. Now the last set of plugs that I pulled out did come out black and one was slightly wet (not oil) Rotor 2 (rear) leading I believe.
#11
Update:
Fuel pressure for prime is 54 psi
If I leave car in ON position psi drops to 50
When car is off psi drops to around mid 30's
I think the pump is hold pressure fine but was unable to verify pressure while car is running and under load.
What is the chance it could be a front O2 sensor (air/fuel)?
The reason I ask is because of the bog down when I press the gas pedal and the slow to climb in RPM's.
Is there a way to test for the front Sensor? Or should I just unplug and have the car go into open loop and see if it's better?
Also could the fuel pump be bad but still test fine at prime (key at ON position)?
Fuel pressure for prime is 54 psi
If I leave car in ON position psi drops to 50
When car is off psi drops to around mid 30's
I think the pump is hold pressure fine but was unable to verify pressure while car is running and under load.
What is the chance it could be a front O2 sensor (air/fuel)?
The reason I ask is because of the bog down when I press the gas pedal and the slow to climb in RPM's.
Is there a way to test for the front Sensor? Or should I just unplug and have the car go into open loop and see if it's better?
Also could the fuel pump be bad but still test fine at prime (key at ON position)?
#12
SOLVED:
Ok so not sure how the Mazda stealership got good compression test results, Maybe they ran it on another car.....Anyway looks like I am going to do a swap now or sale it and buy new turbos for my rx7.
Please anyone take a look at the vids and let me know if Seafoam would even be worth it at this point. It looks like rotor 1 (first vid) only has compression on 1 face. I know this could be a sticking apex and I have used ATF in the rx7 but not in the rx8, But I think if anything maybe seafoam (again).
Ok so not sure how the Mazda stealership got good compression test results, Maybe they ran it on another car.....Anyway looks like I am going to do a swap now or sale it and buy new turbos for my rx7.
Please anyone take a look at the vids and let me know if Seafoam would even be worth it at this point. It looks like rotor 1 (first vid) only has compression on 1 face. I know this could be a sticking apex and I have used ATF in the rx7 but not in the rx8, But I think if anything maybe seafoam (again).
Last edited by rotorsnsaabs; 08-26-2015 at 09:24 PM.
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