Clutch took a big ole dump on me this Friday (98k miles) while I was cruising down the highway. Cruise on and RPM worked up to 9k without any speed increase. Tried to finagle it and see if I could get it to bite somehow, but nada. Luckily I was able to coast the mile or so to the uphill exit and make it through the toll booths. Had a good 17 mile tow home.

Anything out there I should bother looking at aside from Exedy and OEM? This happened at a bad time and budget is a concern. Hard to swallow an extra $100 on an Exedy OEM when I can get a rock auto OEM one for $225-260 (think I'll be ignoring their $260 ceramic one, DD). I'm also in the the buy right, buy once club so if there really is a difference, I'll bump up.

 

OEM is the right path.

I do not know who is the most OEM. I recommend you stay away from Stage 1. There are 2 flavors out there, one stiffer then the other. If you want to save some dollars, I have a used one, not a lot of miles. PM me for details. It is, I believe, the light version of Stage 1, a bit heavier than stock.

 

OEM Exedy is the way to go. I put over 100k on my original clutch and I am turbocharged running 8-10 PSI and have never had a problem in 5 years since being boosted on an OEM Exedy clutch and heavy duty throw out bearing from BHR.

 

Thanks a bunch.

Seems like I have another problem now. Just stopped by the shop I had to had it towed to and was quoted $1700 before they even go it up in the air. Even if that number includes the cost of the tow, it's double to triple what I've seen posted around here. Even if it does need a new flywheel I didn't think I'd break a grand. Said they would look into resurfacing it, but no promises.

No work has been done to it yet. Also mentioned shimming the flywheel if it wasn't replaced since it can't be adjusted. Haven't decided how I'll interpret that since we can adjust the pedal. It's a private shop, not a dealership. Liked these guys before this, too.

 

That price tag is insanely high, I've had mine replaced for $780 including the clutch kit.

 

No idea where the hell they pulled that number from. Didn't start an ordeal in the shop just because I wanted to make sure I was level and I do actually like the owner. I know a guy who works there so I'll have to bark up his tree. Still, I'll be giving a call later to get an itemized list. Much more likely now that I do carve out some time and do it myself now that a friend volunteered a weekend. My house (well, parent's. But hey I cleaned, furnished, and took over the space so I don't feel as bad) has an insulated 2 car garage and with my propane construction heater it's plenty warm.

 

That price is insane. Jobs have a labor cost to them, it should not be whatever they dream up. I have resurfaced many flywheels and most shops typically charge $50.00-$75.00 to do it and I recommend it. So for a new clutch kit (including the heavy duty throw out bearing and pilot bearing) is around $375.00 shipped. Four a first timer this is a one day job in driveway on stands. For an experienced tech on a lift, doing this job takes a couple of hours tops.

 

What he said ^^^ where do you live?

 

Have some clutch components - PM sent. https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-parts-sale-wanted-44/aem-cai-clutch-components-261229/

 

Outside of Philly.

 

This thread is perfect as I'm starting to doubt the life of my clutch (I’m sure it's just my inexperience driving a manual) and was wondering about a replacement.

 

Yeah most trans issues and clutch issues seem to be from people that don't have the best driving skills. My original trans had 140k on it when I pulled in to install the Series 2 transmission and it was working fine. I knew a few guys that had trans and clutch issues and when I went for a ride with them I could see why.

Some people are just hard on the components and shift and downshift like they are in a F&F movie.

 

More bad news. Called another shop and they also estimated $1400. Including a new flywheel this puts them right on the dot with the original shop. I have a buddy in the towing business and I think his theory was dead on about the shops using a computer to price it out. As in the computer says the clutch is "worth" 10 hours in labor. This would put the $1400 figure dead on. Hopefully that doesn't read as if I'm talking down.

Looking a whole lot like I'm hooking up the tow strap to grandpa's Frontier to bring it home. Just a PITA scheduling since I'll have to send out the flywheel.

Disclaimer: I'm not taking any offence. Just a FWIW so I can say nothing is my fault and it's all the PO, right? Always the PO

But yea I drive like a granny 90% of the time and vast majority of my miles are from the highway. I think I have maybe 5 launches in the 10k miles I've owned the car? It is the first stick car I've owned. Learned on my dad's '14 mustang GT.

 

I get on my lady when she gets on the 8 hard since I'm the one that has to pay the bill.

 

Mine died when my daughter hit 3rd instead of 5th at the end of the straight (120 mph). From what I understand she made a great shift, then it all went to hell... Little did I know that it triggered the auto cat delete feature in the car....

 

"Auto Cat Delete Feature" loll had me rolling..

 

Glad that helped. She sent most of it out the tail pipe. Flames and everything...

"But Daddy, I think I got the clutch back in before the 10"

 

Thanks for the info.

I don't mean to thread jack, but my TOB is making a lot of chattering since it turned cold. Clutch is still engaging/disengaging perfectly. Should I bother replacing it, or just deal with it?