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New Engine on order!!

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Old 10-16-2014, 05:08 PM
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I do the case, lasts me about a year.
Old 10-16-2014, 06:49 PM
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I had already ordered just 4 quarts idk why -.-, and i wonder what the shipping cost will be lmao.
Also i suppose im going to run a bottle of fuel injector cleaner about a week before every oil change?
Old 10-27-2014, 01:27 PM
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Quick question- got the call from Mazda, car will be ready tomorrow! But as we all know they try to BS you. I do indeed have code p0411-secondary air injection. They tried to get me to buy a whole pump and stuff -800$ after install. I said no, because from my understanding is it not that important at the moment?
Old 10-27-2014, 01:30 PM
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If you have a cat, you want the air pump working. If you don't have a cat, the air pump is worthless.
Old 10-27-2014, 01:33 PM
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Okay, i do have a cat. And i do hear the pump come on for 30-45 seconds on cold starts so i know its working, but they said its kinda faulty. I usually thought a p0410 was the sign of a new pump? Because prior i did have that vacuum leak which could be tripping the code, but im not sure. If the pump is completely done(which it wasnt before), how long till i should get a new one?
Old 10-27-2014, 01:43 PM
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P0410 is triggered from the front O2 sensor. Basically the ECU is expecting to see a specific AFR signal when the air pump is working (because of the excess amount of air it will show leaner than the engine is actually running at), and if it sees more air than needed to hit that AFR, then it will throw P0410.

Note MORE air, not less. So it basically thinks that the air pump is pumping too much air into the exhaust, which isn't nearly as much of a problem as no air. And yes, I think a vacuum leak could produce that effect, since the engine is using more air than the MAF sees, and under fueling, leading to a leaner AFR. I'd ignore the code until you validate that you no longer have a vacuum leak, and that your engine is broken in fine. Then address the code if it is still popping up.
Old 10-27-2014, 01:52 PM
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Okay, thanks for the quick helpful reply, really appreciate it a lot! Ill go ahead and get a smoke test within a week and go from there. Will def order the pump off mazmart rather then dealership though if i need it lol those prices are crazy.
Old 10-27-2014, 02:09 PM
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Hmm, "more current", not "more air", I just re-read it. I think that does translate to a leaner AFR signal, but I'm not 100% sure. Still, same recommendation.
Old 10-27-2014, 08:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
As stated in the FSM:

• The PCM monitors the front HO2S output current when the AIR control is operating. If the output current is more than the specification, the PCM determines that there is an AIR system problem.

Diagnostic support note;
• This is an intermittent monitor (AIR system).
• The MIL illuminates if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition in two consecutive drive cycles or in one drive cycle while the DTC for the same malfunction has been stored in the PCM.
• PENDING CODE is available if the PCM detects the above malfunction condition during the first drive cycle.
• FREEZE FRAME DATA is available.
• The DTC is stored in the PCM memory.

POSSIBLE CAUSE
• AIR system malfunction
• PCM malfunction
Thanks for finding that, interesting.
Old 11-06-2014, 11:55 PM
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Doing the "gradual increase RPM method" on breaking in the Reman. Im only about 150 Miles on it and do I get tempted to hit that 9k RPM sometimes lol
Old 11-10-2014, 05:55 PM
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Rev it out, break in procedures are a waste of time.
Old 11-11-2014, 12:29 AM
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I personally especially with this type of engine.. Suggest hard break in, Of course let it warm up to operating before doing a hard break in... High rps over 7k. And id suggest making sure everything is lubbedd
Old 11-11-2014, 09:41 AM
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I disagree with hard break in folks. The gradual break in gives all the internal engine parts time to gradually come to a better fit, seals etc. Always did a gradual break in (as Mazda recommends) with all seven of my rotaries. They all lasted over 100,000 with never a rotary failure and good compression test numbers when sold. (easily have clocked over a million rotary miles and still counting, on street and track) . Even my fellow Mazda amateur RX racers and Mazda's Championship RX7 and RX8 race teams do a gradual break in for their engines.

Yes I had to resist the temptation to go hard right away. But I figured I would rather have an engine that lasted than have that extra early fun. Mazda doesn't recommend gradual break in just to hamper your fun, they also want your internal engine parts to fit and seal properly and get the best compression, and last a long time. Most new rotary engines would test down on compression until the internal parts and seals have been properly broken in.

Don't be shortsighted and foolish and pay on the other end with a shorter healthy life for your engine . 41 years of experience driving these rotaries has taught me many lessons, this is one of them.

Last edited by gwilliams6; 11-11-2014 at 09:53 AM.
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