Hi, i just had an engine replaced through the extended warranty and the dealership told me that now i have a P2004 code. I've searched some and found that it has to do with the APV and the valves being stuck (?). Same thing as to what the dealership told me (valve is stuck), recommended that i pay $350 to have it replaced.

Now, i didn't have the code before and have read that there are ways of getting the valve un-stuck (i.e. hard driving) but i've also read the RB new engine break-in procedures (i.e. no redlining for the first 1k miles).

I have 2 questions; if the P2004 code wasn't there before, is it possible for it to suddenly spring up like that? Also, i'd like to try and 'unstick' the valve myself rather than pay $350 but under the new engine procedures, wouldn't that be bad? Would i be alright driving my 8 around for the first 1k miles before testing if i can 'unstick' the valve?

 

No idea, Sorry.

If it was me, I would push it an maybe use the spray seafoam to loosen things up. But not sure if that is relevant for a new engine. Someone smarter will have to weigh in.

now, you could poke the dealer and say it was not like that before, and maybe they installed something wrong. Do you have any miles on it, or did they just change it and want you to pay for something they did wrong?

 

Car is still at the dealer ship, they said they found the code after installing the replacement.

 

Um, the code was not there before. It seems the screwed something up. Almost every service procedure starts with "is the freaking check engine light on".

Also, someone will have to share, but I think a prolonged battery disconnect will reset the Check Engine Light. Not sure though. I think they need to put the car back together the right way.

 

I actually wasn't there when they got the car. AAA towed it to a garage who told me the engine was flooded, AAA then towed it to the dealership to get the engine replaced through warranty. I've been communicating with them over the phone for the most part and have a few oil change receipts, would that be enough 'proof' to show there wasn't a code before?

 

They should have checked it before tearing it apart. I would be willing to bet that the compression test procedure calls it out. Bottom line, they did not tell you it was an issue before the engine swap. what good that does you, I have no idea. But, this is part they took off, stored, then re-installed.

 

okay so it's not something that could've popped up after an engine install unless it was there before or the install was screwed up? I'm going tomorrow morning to pick it up, I'll ask them about it in person.

 

If it was working fine before that is BS, they would have had to remove the lower intake manifold and could have easily screwed something up. It would be hard to have stuck APV's. Stuck SSV maybe, but not the APV's unless something broke. If they removed the APV motor then they have to make sure the gear is in the 1 o'clock position when they reinstall the motor.

I would raise hell.

 

How odd that they get a code right away with a freshly installed engine. Since it wasn't there before, my guess would be that they either dropped it when removing it or damaged it trying to reinstall it Doesn't say a whole lot for the quality of mechanics they have to install a part without first inspecting it carefully to ensure it is functioning correctly and at least cleaning and lubing the part to give it a fighting chance at working when installed.
You might want to mention that along with the fact the code wasn't there before they worked on it. Stand your ground and, with luck, they may back down and replace it on the engine warranty claim paperwork.

 

That is the shitty part about getting a dealer reman, they just reinstall all the dirty manifolds, etc. They don't clean the SSV, APV's or anything. So if you get a reman at 96,000 miles like I did, it gets installed with all those nasty parts. When I pulled mine for my first out of pocket rebuild it took days to clean everything.

 

Went this morning and they couldn't even start the engine. Service manager said the engine was stalling. Wtf, I was told yesterday it would be good to go. Gave me a loaner car for work

 

Update: had some bhr coils installed not too long ago but service rep called me and said one of the leading coils is dead. Is it possible for coils to die that fast...? Let alone bhr ones?

 

Yes, it's pretty rare but everything has a failure rate.

 

By not too long ago, I'm talking basically brand new coils.

 

Any 8 owners/experts in the Austin area who could help me out? I'm thinking the 'master tech' screwed up with the install...

 

Update: had to get a replacement engine for the replacement engine and new harness. Charles at BHR sent me new one quickly thanks! Dealership replaced the valve that was stuck open with another one and no more code. Now, i don't think they replaced the fuel line and i am trying to ask them for it but what exactly should i be asking? the fuel line hose with connectors and not the fuel rail right?