New here, soon to be an RX-8 owner :)
#1
New here, soon to be an RX-8 owner :)
Greetings from Maryland
The knowledge base on this site is incredible! I read the "new and potential owners thread" to a tee, even took some notes, haha. Class is in session.
My car part knowledge is lackluster, but the guides here are incredible. I sense a new hobby, particularly in regards to the RX-8 coming shortly.
Originally the 04' automatic is what captured my heart. However, I think I will be best to pick up a 2009 sport or touring to avoid some of those common issues / high maintenance. Yes?
I still prefer the 04's body style much much more. Anyway, It's good to be here. Feels good, man.
The knowledge base on this site is incredible! I read the "new and potential owners thread" to a tee, even took some notes, haha. Class is in session.
My car part knowledge is lackluster, but the guides here are incredible. I sense a new hobby, particularly in regards to the RX-8 coming shortly.
Originally the 04' automatic is what captured my heart. However, I think I will be best to pick up a 2009 sport or touring to avoid some of those common issues / high maintenance. Yes?
I still prefer the 04's body style much much more. Anyway, It's good to be here. Feels good, man.
#2
Welcome !! Yes a manual is the preferred way to go for better engine performance and longevity. And a Series 2 does have some improvements. If you have not read already ,here are our maintenance recommendations:
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________
RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________
#4
But apart from that, the 8 is definitely a great car! I wish you luck
Last edited by TheFirstValkyrie; 06-07-2016 at 06:26 AM.
#5
I am now browsing exclusively 09' and 10' models. From what I've gathered (yell at me if i'm wrong) the series 2 is significantly more reliable in terms of part replacement, whether that be seals or the entire engine.
I am sticking to an automatic, which probably makes a lot of you cringe Am going with a 09' or 10' sport model. Already have contacted some dealerships in the area (Maryland) Only a few available but I am giddy!
I am sticking to an automatic, which probably makes a lot of you cringe Am going with a 09' or 10' sport model. Already have contacted some dealerships in the area (Maryland) Only a few available but I am giddy!
#6
Ditch the auto, you will have a better opportunity to keep that engine revved up and reduce your carbon buildup-hence a better chance at longevity for that engine.
In any case be sure to get that rotary-engine specific compression test BEFORE you buy any RX8. If you neglect to do that before you buy it won't matter if it is a Series 2, you may still be buying a failing or failed engine. (rotaries can still run when failing, and dealers and individuals will still sell you an RX8 with a failing engine that is running).
Don't let your heart overwhelm your good senses with this purchase. Be a smart shopper and be sure of what you are getting. Buying a rotary is not like buying a piston engine car. Good luck !
In any case be sure to get that rotary-engine specific compression test BEFORE you buy any RX8. If you neglect to do that before you buy it won't matter if it is a Series 2, you may still be buying a failing or failed engine. (rotaries can still run when failing, and dealers and individuals will still sell you an RX8 with a failing engine that is running).
Don't let your heart overwhelm your good senses with this purchase. Be a smart shopper and be sure of what you are getting. Buying a rotary is not like buying a piston engine car. Good luck !
Last edited by gwilliams6; 06-11-2016 at 09:06 AM.
#7
Thanks for that. Yes, at all costs I will have a compression test done. I do feel the dealerships will not be so willing, but I will try. I'm not opposed to learning how to drive stick but I never have, and doing so on my new ~$12000 baby concerns me greatly.
- Is there a consolidated AT thread? I am lightly grazing but would be good to learn further pros and cons, and additional things the AT may need to keep in ship shape (aside from the regular maintenance lists)
- Is there a consolidated AT thread? I am lightly grazing but would be good to learn further pros and cons, and additional things the AT may need to keep in ship shape (aside from the regular maintenance lists)
Last edited by jagz; 06-11-2016 at 11:30 AM.
#8
Yes there are threads here that speak to issues with AT,mainly engine issues. But most other issues with RX8 are shared by all models. The stick and tranny in an RX8 is so smooth and easy to use. It would be a very easy stick to be your first. And the added bonus is being able to get the full performance and fun out of your RX8's engine, along with possible longer engine life.
(one of the best ways to search on this forum is actually by using google. Lets say you want to find a thread on AT engine issues. Google: "Automatic transmission engine trouble/RX8 club". This often works much better then our RX8 club's internal search engine)
AT owners here still have loads of fun and love their cars, but stick folks I feel have more fun. LOL !
(one of the best ways to search on this forum is actually by using google. Lets say you want to find a thread on AT engine issues. Google: "Automatic transmission engine trouble/RX8 club". This often works much better then our RX8 club's internal search engine)
AT owners here still have loads of fun and love their cars, but stick folks I feel have more fun. LOL !
Last edited by gwilliams6; 06-11-2016 at 02:56 PM.
#9
More reliable? I'm sure. Significantly more reliable? I don't believe so. Both series require you to regularly and carefully stay on top of maintenance compared to cars with ordinary engines, and both series have reliable engines if that's done from day one. I believe the minor enhancements to the series 2 lubrication system merely affords a wee bit greater margin of error for owner neglect, is all.
#10
Yeah the Series 2 is just improved. Nothing much more than that man. Definitely not "significantly more reliable".
But seriously, pleaseeeeee do not get an auto. They're slow and make these engines even more unreliable mostly due to their low revs (etc). Do you know how to drive stick?? If you dont, then you should!! The manual 8's are faster, have higher redlines, are almost always more reliable and the list goes on. Plus it's super fun and good skill to have!
But seriously, pleaseeeeee do not get an auto. They're slow and make these engines even more unreliable mostly due to their low revs (etc). Do you know how to drive stick?? If you dont, then you should!! The manual 8's are faster, have higher redlines, are almost always more reliable and the list goes on. Plus it's super fun and good skill to have!
#11
Yeah the Series 2 is just improved. Nothing much more than that man. Definitely not "significantly more reliable".
But seriously, pleaseeeeee do not get an auto. They're slow and make these engines even more unreliable mostly due to their low revs (etc). Do you know how to drive stick?? If you dont, then you should!! The manual 8's are faster, have higher redlines, are almost always more reliable and the list goes on. Plus it's super fun and good skill to have!
But seriously, pleaseeeeee do not get an auto. They're slow and make these engines even more unreliable mostly due to their low revs (etc). Do you know how to drive stick?? If you dont, then you should!! The manual 8's are faster, have higher redlines, are almost always more reliable and the list goes on. Plus it's super fun and good skill to have!
I am going to go kick the tires on learning stick, my buddy wants to take me out on his 96' MT accord to teach me, and doesn't car at all if I brick that thing as it's barely hanging on as is, haha.
#13
Don't forget Craigslist. I'd suggest buying from an individual seller as you'll be able to get an idea of how they've maintained the car, whether or not they know their way around a rotary, etc. Dealerships rarely know anything about the cars they sell.
Also, dude, get a stick. You won't be able to really appreciate the car if it's an auto. Not to mention the bump in reliability that a stick will give you.
Also, dude, get a stick. You won't be able to really appreciate the car if it's an auto. Not to mention the bump in reliability that a stick will give you.
#14
CL has always concerned me because I feel as everyone is trying to sell you a lemon.
However, there is a reputable rotary shop about 45 minutes away, and some of these cars on CL are between $2000 and $4000 (series 1, ~100k miles, + engine light)
I assume a new engine is needed but maybe it's worth weighing versus a "new used" RX8. - By that I mean a series II @ 40-70k miles via a dealership around $10,000.
I hear you all loud and clear about manual I really do!
I have skimmed the forum rules but may have missed if I'm allowed to link possible targets I am looking at, at the moment.
However, there is a reputable rotary shop about 45 minutes away, and some of these cars on CL are between $2000 and $4000 (series 1, ~100k miles, + engine light)
I assume a new engine is needed but maybe it's worth weighing versus a "new used" RX8. - By that I mean a series II @ 40-70k miles via a dealership around $10,000.
I hear you all loud and clear about manual I really do!
I have skimmed the forum rules but may have missed if I'm allowed to link possible targets I am looking at, at the moment.
#15
yes , this is your thread about looking for an RX8, so yes you can link to possible cars you are considering, and we will be happy to give you our assessment of them. Cheers !
#16
Awesome! That'd be fantastic. My searches have at the moment been primarily AT's, but there are some AT & MT craigslist RX8's available but almost assuredly will have to throw thousands in the engine to get them in ship shape. Question is weighing the proposal of a rebuilt engine + the rest.
Series II via dealerships/craigslist:
2010 AT, 51k miles, $11,450
2009 AT, 39k miles, $10000
2009 AT Touring, 74k miles, $9000
2009 MT, 17k miles, $11,500 - How could it be under warranty still? Thought 09+ was 5 years max, if not 3?
Series I via dealerships/craigslist:
2005 MT, 34.5k miles, $10000
2005 AT, 101k miles, $4600
2007 AT, 80k miles, $3200 Bit of a project, wonder how much $ will have to go in.
2004 AT, 89k miles, $3800 Another project, stalling and idling issues.
2005 AT, 115k, $2200 Project. New engine at 57k miles, probably needs another..
2004 AT, 127k miles , $3000 Project. Turns itself off.
2007 MT, 105k, $6000
I'm basically assuming all series 1 will need a new engine sooner than later. The good news is a rotary shop in maryland which looks to price fair and I discovered them via the forums here.
Aesthetically, I find a dark series 1 to be the most appealing. However my brain says series 2 only!
The red MT at $11500 with extremely low miles looks like it could dethrone my current #1, the ourisman 2010 silver automatic for the same price with more miles.
Series II via dealerships/craigslist:
2010 AT, 51k miles, $11,450
2009 AT, 39k miles, $10000
2009 AT Touring, 74k miles, $9000
2009 MT, 17k miles, $11,500 - How could it be under warranty still? Thought 09+ was 5 years max, if not 3?
Series I via dealerships/craigslist:
2005 MT, 34.5k miles, $10000
2005 AT, 101k miles, $4600
2007 AT, 80k miles, $3200 Bit of a project, wonder how much $ will have to go in.
2004 AT, 89k miles, $3800 Another project, stalling and idling issues.
2005 AT, 115k, $2200 Project. New engine at 57k miles, probably needs another..
2004 AT, 127k miles , $3000 Project. Turns itself off.
2007 MT, 105k, $6000
I'm basically assuming all series 1 will need a new engine sooner than later. The good news is a rotary shop in maryland which looks to price fair and I discovered them via the forums here.
Aesthetically, I find a dark series 1 to be the most appealing. However my brain says series 2 only!
The red MT at $11500 with extremely low miles looks like it could dethrone my current #1, the ourisman 2010 silver automatic for the same price with more miles.
#18
I agree with Loki, that 2009 with 17k miles sounds good, and yes you would have that 8yr/100,000 mile Mazda warranty (from date of first sale) on both the engine and clutch pedal assembly.
Your odds are better with a low mileage Series 2 than a Series 1 with higher mileage. No guarantee here without knowledge of how the cars were maintained, but younger is usually better in an RX8 and the improvements in the Series 2 (which include a better fuel pump, and a third oil metering line into the engine) are desirable.
A MT will be more fun and better for the engine , but if you must go AT, that 2010 from Ourisman Mazda might be good if they throw in a good used car Mazda certified warranty in addition to the two years and 49 k miles left on the Mazda engine warranty on that one. I would check that one out also. ( I formerly lived in the DC area and Ourisman was a reputable dealer chain).
Your odds are better with a low mileage Series 2 than a Series 1 with higher mileage. No guarantee here without knowledge of how the cars were maintained, but younger is usually better in an RX8 and the improvements in the Series 2 (which include a better fuel pump, and a third oil metering line into the engine) are desirable.
A MT will be more fun and better for the engine , but if you must go AT, that 2010 from Ourisman Mazda might be good if they throw in a good used car Mazda certified warranty in addition to the two years and 49 k miles left on the Mazda engine warranty on that one. I would check that one out also. ( I formerly lived in the DC area and Ourisman was a reputable dealer chain).
Last edited by gwilliams6; 06-16-2016 at 10:30 AM.
#19
Hells yeah the 6 spd with only 17k miles. And I second... third... what are we up to now? DO NOT GET AN AUTO!!!
Driving manual is easy, just immerse yourself in it, don't be afraid, and you will be fine. And don't worry about stalling... you will DO it... everyone does...
Driving manual is easy, just immerse yourself in it, don't be afraid, and you will be fine. And don't worry about stalling... you will DO it... everyone does...
#20
Hells yeah the 6 spd with only 17k miles. And I second... third... what are we up to now? DO NOT GET AN AUTO!!!
Driving manual is easy, just immerse yourself in it, don't be afraid, and you will be fine. And don't worry about stalling... you will DO it... everyone does...
Driving manual is easy, just immerse yourself in it, don't be afraid, and you will be fine. And don't worry about stalling... you will DO it... everyone does...
My brother & my buddy want to teach me, and they have much greater car knowledge than me to boot. Perhaps I bite the bullet, snag it, have them drive it back with me riding shotgun, and we carefully begin the learning process in it. I just wanted to log many hours in something else first via stick.
idk what to do!
#21
Do you want to be temporarily gimped by not knowing how to drive your car, or permanently gimped by a less powerful version of the car and not being able to drive stick if you ever need to?
#23
I hope you find that 2009 MT with 17k miles in good condition, and yes get your brother to drive it back home for you. Then take your time learning to drive it. You will get the hang of it very quickly, I am sure.
#24
Seriously, get the thoughts of Auto out of your head. Get the manual and get someone else to bring it home for you and teach you. It's exactly how I got my first manual vehicle years and years ago... You will be surprised how fast you catch on. I'm sure you will get the basics in a weekend, and will be off driving by yourself in no time. Again don't worry about stalling or annoying other people on the road just don't get scared about hurting the car, you won't. And a week/month/year down the road you will look back and there will not be regret, there will be only joy!