jagz

That's the plan, but he may not be in town in time for this 17k miles beaut, coupled with still in a holding pattern for an auto loan. I might miss it !

Setflyn41

I learned to drive stick on my 8 but I had a pretty good understanding of sticks before hand so I just got in it and started driving lol first gear will be the toughest to get the hang of. As far as reliability goes its all about how it's maintained I'm pushing 140,000 miles (not km) on the original engine on my 04

sinkas

Also you could call a local driver training place and learn in thier car before you decide on a car to buy, spend a few months checking out diff cars, dont do like 80% of thr nrwbies on this site and buy the first one you see only for it to ****-itself

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Learning to drive a manual does not take hours.
It's not hard at all, just have to do it a few times, nothing to it.
You'll probably be surprised at how quickly you pick it up.
Go check it out, and have the current owner drive it with you as a passenger.
Tell him to drive it like he stole it.

jagz

Auto loan still pending. Should be cleared by Friday. Originally posted options are almost all gone.

The Ourisman Mazda, 2010, Silver, 50k miles for ~$10,000 is still available.

While I want the series 2 for primarily engine reasons, this 05' Manual Shinka with 43k miles (also $10,000).. I'm in visual love.

sinkas

Have you actually driven one yet?

jagz

I haven't driven one yet. If I was buying the first one I saw, I'd already have one, and like you said, it would probably be a timebomb. I am open to other vehicles, but my heart is sold. Aesthetically.. sold, I should say.

sinkas

Well, try andvdrive one, it might change your opinion

gwilliams6

If you are set on buying an AT, I would pick the Series 2 ,2010 with 50K miles over any 2005 AT. It is a five years younger car with the Series 2 improvements.

Some important points. 1) rotary-specific compression tests of the engines; 2) test drives ; 3) Has the 2005 had an engine replacement , or is it the original engine ?; 4) What kind of warranty will you get with each car? Remember you will still have 2 years of Mazda engine warranty on the 2010 model, but none on the Shinka ! And you may or may not get an additional Mazda certified warranty from the dealer. That lack of Mazda engine warranty alone would be a deal breaker with the Shinka. That is potentially worth thousands of dollars to you in the long run !

Our preferences here are that you find a good manual for maximum performance and fun, but hey we will still welcome you if you get an AT.

jagz

Thanks for that! I have talked to the dealership in Virginia about the Shinka.

It's not a Mazda dealership, but the whole Chrysler warranty extension is interesting. However, they'd have to have different locations for service as I live far away. I read the Shinka's carfax. Original engine but regularly maintained. Including an electrical system overhaul and ignition coil replacement in September.

gwilliams6

That does give you some options with the Shinka. At this point what added dealer and/or Mazda certified warranties would the Series 2 , 2010 at Ourisman have?

Mazda dealers should all have the proper equipment to do a rotary-specific engine compression test.

I know part of our car desire is how attractive they are to us. But don't let the very nice Shinka looks blind you to perhaps a better choice for the long haul. Remember you will want this car to last as long as possible to justify spending your hard-earned money.

Of course with a good engine and proper care a Series 1 Shinka can last and they do. But on the other hand the Series 2 does have its advantages. (for me the upgraded fuel pump and the third oil metering line lubricating the engine internals could prove important. Also a different gear ratio for better low end, and one extra gallon capacity in the gas tank might be to your liking.)

Personally I chose the 2008 40th Anniversary Edition for both its exclusivity ,looks and a few minor mechanical upgrades in suspension. There was no Series 2 out in 2008 to compare it to.

Do your mechanical due diligence on the engines compression, compare the warranties, test drive them and then decide which model speaks both to your heart and to your good senses.

Best to you !

jagz

Yes and that Shinka is blinding me, because after my research i was dead set on a series 2 only, then I saw the Shinka.. See what I mean.

I'm not sure about Ourisman, I'll have to follow up. I am (mostly) sure the mazda warranty extension can apply. You all have done well to drive the MT > AT into me, now the Ourismans series 2 being an AT is a deterrent!

jagz

Inquired about a Series 1 (05) at a Mazda dealership in Virginia. ~$9k asking @ 55k miles.

However, They were nice enough to email me the compression scores.

@250RPM
Rotor 1: 7.8 7.7 7.5
Rotor 2: 7.6 7.5 7.6

Sounds decent. With staying on top of maint, and according to the guide, I can drive that for another 50k+ yes? That's funny, because I have driven an SUV since 06' and have less than 50k.

btw, I've been practicing a stick a bit. 2 stalls in the first few minutes, then pretty solid the next few hours.

woo.

gwilliams6

If test made at 250rpm (starter), those numbers are just about all in the green on the RX8 club compression test chart. Yes those are numbers you can work with. $9k seems a little high for a 2005 ( is it a sport or touring model, AT or MT ?) If you test drive it, and inspect it and get the maintenance records and all is good, then just try to negotiate a lower price and go for it. BTW ask if that is the original engine. Or get the vin number and you can check the history if Mazda replaced the engine at any time.

No guarantee how long that engine will last, you might get much more or less than 50k more miles out of the engine. Just remember you don't have any Mazda warranty left on a 2005, so be sure they give you some warranty (including powertrain) to cover you.

jagz

Hilariously the price has been raised to $11,000. Funny what an inquiry can do.

Typical mumbo jumbo. Engine is original. They just replaced plugs and coils when it arrived to their dealership. It is a Mazda dealership.

I want to drive down there but that price increase makes me think they will let it go for 9k but not the 7k or even 8k I'd maybe pay it.

They have a 3 month, 3000 mile.. I will see about extensions.

gwilliams6

RX8 Clutch parts are around $600-700 from a Mazda dealer, less from other sellers. That does add value, but not $2000 worth of added value ,even with dealer inflated labor charges !

MiRe

If you're still interested, go in with the money ready and try to negotiate it down. Walk out if they won't meet your top price. It's funny what a customer with cash in hand can do to a sales person.

Just make sure to not get so attached you can't walk out. There are always other cars out there.