philzeey

Okay, so i bought this mazda from a dealership, and because they felt bad that i worried about buying it, they gave me a top of the line warranty on it just in case anything goes out. its currently at 90k. So it runs awesome, i can get it up to high rpms no problem. I've done a lot of research on it to make sure I'm doing things right. I'm not flooding it, i make sure its hot before i turn it off. I sit there a while to let it naturally warm up before i start driving off. I keep it up at high rpms alot so no carbon build it. Simply, like i said, it runs great. BUT it has a hard time starting up, like allllll the time. Sometimes it starts up okay... But most of the time i have to do the deflood procedue (gas pedal down before cranking for 10 seconds and then letting it go a little at a time) just to get it started. I took it too the mechanic (not a very good one i guess) and he said its possibly a vacuum leak. Idk what to think, its gonna be a couple weeks before i can get a real good mechanic who knows rotary engines like mine. Mazda said there hasn't been any recalled items on the car, should i take it to mazda for them to check it out? And if its a bad engine, do you think mazda will replace it?? Thanks

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Do you have more trouble starting when cold or more trouble when hot? Or neither?

A vacuum leak won't cause a starting problem, because a vacuum leak is a MAF miscalculation, and the MAF isn't in use while starting.

Don't take it to a dealer, they will just throw parts at it. Figure out the problem first, THEN take it somewhere to have the item fixed under that warranty you got.


By the way, did you get a compression test first? You appear to have done some reading, but you haven't mentioned getting the engine tested first.

gwilliams6

You are way past the Mazda rotary engine warranty of 8yyrs/100,000 miles with your RX8 being an '04. My guess is your "top of the line warranty" may have some restrictions to it. Find out and let us know what it does cover.

Get your compression test numbers first to know if your engine is healthy or failing. Does your new warranty cover a rotary engine replacement? You may have ignition issues. How many miles on your coils, plugs and wires ?

We can help you make smart decisions on what to do for the health and longevity your car, but you need to gather some more pertinent data first.

Mysterion

Without knowing where you are located, I can only quote a major drawback of dealer-sold used car warrantys I have seen locally. Read the fine print carefully as many used car warrantys I have seen cover "engine core repairs" up to a maximum dollar amount with $1500. being a common limit. What does that mean to you? If, for example, you need to have a reman engine installed that costs $3000., you are still on the hook for $1500. plus the labor. If your throttle body needs replacing, you are on your own.
If you are having hard starting issues, get the compression checked by a rotary specialist. Then, if that checks out okay, pretend you are a dealer and start throwing parts at it til you solve the issue. In this case, start with coils, wires and plugs. While you are feeling generous, add an air filter and oil change to that just to make your wallet lighter and your car feel better. Once that is done, consult this:
https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...t-here-202454/
for further maintenance items worth addressing.

04Green

iTrader: (1)

My suspicion is coils. An easy check is to swap out the leading ones (that way you just need 2). You can get OEM style ones from most any parts store. I would also look at the Congrats thread below and clean at least the ESS. the grounds mod may be useful as well.

philzeey

I did not get a compression test first . And the Warranty says this for the.... "Engine Group"- "All internally lubricated parts. Crankshaft and bearings, oil pump, fuel pump, diesel injection pump, internal timing gears or chain/belt, camshaft, camshaft bearings, valve lifters, rocker arm assemblies, and push rods, valve guides, piston and rings, wrist pins, connecting rods, exhaust manifold, motor mounts, and distributor drive gear. The engine block and cylinder heads are covered if damaged is caused by FAILURE of an internally lubricated part. Engine (rotary): all of the above listed parts plus rotors, rotor seals, rotor chamber, eccentric shaft and bearings." but it covers much, much more in all other areas of the car.

and sometimes it seems to start easier in the cold, it really goes back and forth. and the mechanic told me the wires and plugs and coils seem to be okay but idk if i really trust that guy..... I have my own mechanic who is a family friend who knows rotary but he's not available for a couple weeks unfortunately. Does this help out?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Change the ignition ($192 in parts shipped to your door and easy replacement with simple tools, they are wear items so don't expect warranty coverage), clean the MAF, clean the ESS, reset the fuel trims, reset the ESS profile, let the car idle for 10 minutes before first driving it, and then see where you are at.

gwilliams6

I see you posted what your warranty covers. Looks like you ARE covered for a failing engine. Good News it seems ! Now follow RIWWP's advice, along with our advise on getting that compression test and go from there.

Legot

iTrader: (1)

That's an incredible warranty. Get a compression test now and try getting that thing replaced! It's not necessarily the cause of the problems you're having, but you'll have more luck getting a new engine now rather than later.

philzeey

Thanks guys! I'll be sure to do the new customer DIY's and get that air compression. I'll post back with the results I get from doing all that

Legot

iTrader: (1)

Not one of those will change your compression! They're good to do, but you absolutely need to go to a mazda dealership and pay the ~$100. It could save you literally thousands in the near future.

patriotjj

^^+1

philzeey

Yes I know ha, hence why I said I want to do those AND the compression test.

mazdadrags

Also what I learned don't touch the accelerator until the car starts

Legot

iTrader: (1)

^What? Unless you're flooring it it won't do anything at all. We have an electronic throttle body.

philzeey

Alright after dealing with my warranty company and mazda. Mazda really went and tryed to help me out to get this car fixed, I really like the guys that work there. I'm getting a new engine! :D. The mazda said my engine should be somewhere around 8.9 compression, and it came back with 3.2 so they condemned it. Anyways it should take around a week or so to get my new engine and all I have to pay is 100$ for the deductible. Really glad I'm getting this fixed, and now i can start doing other things to it. I'll probably start with new ignition coils, and such. Any other recommendations?

I've done alot of research on the car but I want some tips from you guys too. What should I do as far as turning it off and on? How should I drive it? RPMs that it should rest at while driving? How to handle it better in the winter (it just started snowing here)? Thanks guys

Loki

iTrader: (1)

You should drive it like any other car. A healthy RX8 with healthy compression, healthy ignition and a healthy cat doesn't need anything extraordinary. Don't push it while the engine is still cold. In the winter, if it's your first RWD, be careful until you know how the car acts. It's pretty stable, just go easy on it and get winter tires.

You should *definitely* do the ignition coils, spark plugs and wires. The reason the current engine is dead could be related to those not having been done before. Have them check the catalytic converter for clogs too, while they have it all apart. This is a common problem that appears alongside engine failures.

As far as RPM, 3-4-5k is fine, but wind it out to 7-8-9 once in a while for therapeutic purposes (yours and the car's). Just enjoy it, inform yourself on here and don't overthink it, it's not made of glass. Most problems come from continuous neglect, rather than 1 bad move.