Just purchased a 03/04? (Sticker says 07/03, yet everything elses says 04) for $500, long story short I bought it from a bad mechanic who was flooding it anytime he tried to start it. Car runs terrific aside from a rough idle which I've been reading about and the radio doesn't work, however those arent what my post is about. (Though if you would like to guess about it then be my guest).

My post is about general care. I know that its reccomended to reach at least 7500 rpm at least once per drive, I know to let it idle for a few minutes before turning it off after driving, I know that the engine is nearing its rebuild mileage, and I know that I need to go ahead and redo the cooling system and replace everything to prevent overheating. I would like any insights anyone here has for me as I am new to rotary engines. I have read both the considering buying an 8 as well as the congratulations, you now own an 8 post. I would like this engine to last me as long as possible before I rebuild it, as well as as long as possible after.

Thank you very much!

 

Congrats. First off, not bad for $500 bucks. If you cant trust the history of the car, you'll need to replace some stuff. Ignition components on these cars do not last, they start to fade after only 20k miles. You will need coils, wires, and spark plugs. Paul at Mazmart sells a tune up kit, but it costs as much as you spent on the car!

The rough idle could be explained by the aftermarket intake. The rx8 came pretty well tuned from the factory, Mazda got every inch of performance out of the car that they could. As such, aftermarket accessories very rarely help, and can often make the situation worse. Case in point, your intake is not a cold air, rather the opposite. The factory air intake was in the bumper, exposed to fresh air. More importantly, your intake is very short, and may not have the MAF 'screens' necessary to smooth out the airflow before it can be measured. The best two alternative intakes are the racing beat and the AEM. You can also get the factory unit back, try eBay or a junkyard. You will also need the black accordion tube.

As for cooling: it looks like your car has been in an accident. Is the black plastic under tray beneath the car intact? That helps force air into the radiator. Without it, the radiator will not see sufficient airflow. A word about overheating: the temp gauge is not very accurate. Once it start to move to the right, you're probably too late. If the rotary engine overheats, it will damage the water seals between the rotor housings (like head gaskets). A damaged coolant seal will require a rebuild (worse than head gaskets).

Best of luck, and drive it like you stole it.

 

Thank you very much for your ideas and input, I forgot to mention that I intend to install an aftermarket temperature gauge to watch it. What is a good temperature for it to run at? Are there any other gauges I should consider? And I don't believe it has the plastic bit you were talking about.

 

These are the most popular gauges:

Complete Gauge Panel Kit for 04-08 RX-8 - Racing Beat

You tap the heater hose, instructions are provided. It also includes oil pressure and temperature.

As for the under tray, it includes three parts. The lower part and two side pieces. All three are necessary to force air where we want it: through the radiator.

These are two examples of the tray.

RX-8 Under Tray

Aluminum Under Tray by RX-8 Performance | RX8Performance.com

 

I greatly appreciated your help, as I am new to rotary engines and realized how different of a ball park it is when I read that you are supposed to dog the engine. I may go with a cheaper set-up for the gauges, and go with a post gauge bar because I don't want to loose my port to charge my phone, as well as I would be more apt to see it if the temperature got too high.

 

There is a gentleman that sells defroster vent gauge pods, custom fit to the rx8. You can also buy the sensors for those gauges separately.

 

Welcome.

Some suggested reading is in my Sig Block.

For Gauges, my favorite is the Ultra Gauge. ultra-gauge.com, if I remember. About the best $70 you can spend. Is an ODBII reader, 8 measurements at a time, plus trip computer and code scanner.

And again, welcome.

 

Currently I have the torque app and a Bluetooth dongle connected to monitor until I buy an actual gauge set. Thank you though

 

I've noticed that when it's cold blue smoke comes from the exhaust. Any ideas as to that? I'm starting to think that this engine is ready for a rebuild, although I know it had just had major work done to it about a year before I bought it. It also sat for over a year, it may have to do with that.

In addition, I would like to know what is an average operating temperature for these, and what is too hot. I live in Florida so it gets pretty hot here and I would like to know when to start worrying. I knoticed it got to 213 today while I was driving around the neighborhood to get it moving.

 

If it says 04 on the title, it's an 04. If you're in the USA, it's an 04. Since it was built in 03 it's an early 04.. Cars are often built before the model year.

 

Normally its within the last 3 months of the year. I dont have the title right now because the car lot o work for is required to mail it according to company policy. I dont like it but it's fine. Since it was 07 of 03 it would normally be considered an 03

 

uhhh.. What's 'normally' mean? My 2011 Camaro was also manufactured around june/july of '10.

Do you remember when the new 2015 Subaru WRX/STI came out? In April of 2014?

 

Interesting. A good rule of thumb has always been agter September its the next year. Good to know that there are some variations in that

 

Oh, the misconceptions about this car! A few clarifications:

• Letting it idle a few minutes after driving is not necessary. You're confused because there's a special shutdown procedure for turning off a COLD engine; once your Renesis is warm it can be turned off immediately, like any other engine.
• Unless your Renesis has a ton of miles - or hasn't been carefully and consistently maintained - it doesn't have a "rebuild" mileage. Many Renesis engines have well over 100K miles on them.
• If you're not partaking in autocross or track events, there's no need to "redo" the cooling system, which is more than adequate for all non-competitive driving.

Enjoy your new 8!

 

I'm likely going to autocross it once ive gotten bumpers for it, and as far as the maintenance I have no clue how it was maintained.

 

RX8 Club’s recommended maintenance schedule, more comprehensive and proactive than Mazda’s schedule.
30,000 miles:
- Replace Ignition coils
- Replace Plug wires
- Replace Spark plugs
- Clean MAF (mass air flow sensor)
- Clean ESS (e-shaft sensor)
- Reset ESS profile
- Clean power steering connections
- Clean battery terminals and clamps
- Replace transmission fluid
- Replace coolant (Mazda FL-22 is highly recommended)
- Replace air filter
- Replace brake fluid (fluid in the brake lines AND the clutch line)
~$300 USD in parts if you shop smartly.


every 60,000:
...all 30,000, plus...
- Clean all chassis electrical grounding points
- Replace accessory belts
- Clean OMP lines
- Replace rear differential fluid
- Replace thermostat
- Clean / Straighten AC condenser fins
- Clean / Straighten oil cooler fins
- Inspect catalytic converter
- Clean / Inspect intake valving
- Consider / inspect all points in 90,000+ as well, many items fail early
~$130 USD in parts if you shop smartly.

90,000:
...all 30,000, plus any 60,000 not yet done, plus...
- Replace coolant bottle
- Replace radiator hoses
- Replace radiator
- Replace front O2 sensor
- Replace motor mounts
- Inspect clutch pedal assembly for flex / weld breaks
~$900 USD in parts if you shop smartly.
At 100k, anything original in the cooling system is really suspect and failure prone. It represents the biggest threat to your engine.
__________________

 

Anyone have any experience with parts geek? I'm considering ordering from them.

Thank you gwilliams, thats the list I saw that made me decide to redo the cooling system

 

dont know if you know this and i know Im replying to a very old post. Your intake can cause some rough idles. if you get the air flow screens or put on an OEM intake this may calm down your rough idles a little..

 

it wound up being a poorly seated spark plug. Car runs great now and I have no signs of poor compression. Cars actually for sale now