SamoMX6

Long time lurker, finally joined up on the site as I am considering getting in to my first RX-8. I really want to thank everyone one on here who has so much insight into these cars. There is so much research compiled in one place here!

I'd like to get some feedback on a car I'm looking at. I've been considering a 2008 40th Anniversary. It has 57,000miles (92,000km), and is at 6,400USD (8100CAD) at the moment.

Link: 2008 40th Anniversary

I was able to take it on the road already once. But, as it was my first time sitting in an RX-8, I didn't have a lot to go on (other than what I've read here). The clutch had a good inch or two of dead-space when pushing it in before there was any resistance. Wondering if this is a sign of a weak clutch, or is there normally a bit of a dead zone at the beginning of the clutch on these cars?

It also likely (I think) needs a new catalytic converter. It started fine when I drove it, and started warm well also (at least once), but the exhaust was making some funny noises, and wasn't very smooth/steady. Originally I thought it might be an exhaust leak under the car. After reading some more on here, and looking up videos, I think it is a clogged cat. It definitely hissed when accelerating.

It also has had moisture in the tail lights. One is pretty dirty on the inside from recent moisture being stuck in there.

Now, the real question is the compression for sure. I'm trying to see if I can work out getting a test done, as I think that is the most important thing to know. I figure it needs the full ignition replaced, and the cat. And if I understand correctly, if these have been problems for a while, then the engine is likely in bad shape. I did e-mail Mazda Canada, and the Engine Core is still under warranty until August/September this year (maybe the catalytic is too?).

It has also likely been winter driven up here in Manitoba, Canada, so is there anyplace that these cars like to rust a lot? My previous Mazda 3 from '05 rusted more than my old '93 MX-6, so I know this era of Mazda can be bad for rust.

With this in mind, any thoughts? It is probably good to mention that I am able to be patient here, and I'm looking for a solid car that I will hang on to. I can wait for that cherry R3, but it might take a while up here. I will hopefully have a chance to look at a couple other cars in the neighbourhood soon, to get a better feel.

Thanks in advance for any feedback!

Load6794

Personally I had a dead zone also in my 2004 RX8 but that's the only once I have ever driven. I have no info on the cat. Im sure it's not too difficult to replace yourself. I'd recommend doing all maintenance yourself on this car. The moisture issue is very common. Some people drill a small hole in the bottom of the light covers to remedy it, some drop the money to get new ones or repair the seal. I'd recommend the small hole. It's good you're patient with this subject. Finding a good RX8 is becoming harder and harder to find.

Gravey

iTrader: (3)

Welcome, and you will be looking at a lot more than $8,100 for an R3 probably $12,000 at the lowest! depending upon mileage

SamoMX6

Thanks! Yeah it's so hard to know the best choice. An '08 with some issues for cheap, or look for a more mint R3. I'm happy to pay more for a car in great shape for sure, but as Load6974 said, it is hard to even find one in good shape.

I'm leaning towards passing on this '08. Just has loads of small issues that add up: needs new front bumper and grill, scratches in the clear coat, tail light moisture, trunk leaks, needs pads and rotors... and all this before knowing compression score. The price is attractive sure, but the longer I wait, the more I can save for a car in great shape.

Khurram

an 08 40th anni edition for 8100 is a good deal as is considering it only has 92k on it.

When you buy the car, since its already under warranty get an extended warranty from Mazda.

Clutch normally have an inch or so of dead space at least that's been the case in both my rx8s 04 and 06

Get them to fix the tail lights (replace the gaskets) at their cost prior to making a payment

Get them to cover the compression test, if they dont, then negotiate the price, find out the cost of extended warranty and then pay for compression from your pocket.

I noticed both my 8's hissed under acceleration, with stock exhaust and with after market exhaust as well..

Exhaust sputters, pops, and makes all kind of noises from time to time..

the only way to tell if the CAT is clogged, if the car hesitates going above 6k rpm and the realest way is to take the CAT out and inspect it. Another quick solution would be.. drive it hard for 10-15 mins, pull over look under the car and see if the CAT is glowing red

If the engine is under warranty, then CAT must be under warranty.

For Rust, inspect trunk, rear quarters and under panels


There will be little issues regardless, its a used car that too an 8 year old.

Little scratches in the clear coat can be addressed with a good hand polishing and waxing job by yourself, tail moisture can also be fixed for $15.

rotors and pads along with compression you can negotiate with the dealer to take care off.

Remeber, dealers know these cars are not your typical S2k or 350Z they dont sell fast, so don't show your excitement, keep the attitude that you are always ready to walk away.. Take your time and hopefully all will work out in your favour :-)

chaitu1111

Hi,

I'm planning to buy a 2009 used RX-8 which got like 100k miles on it. I got the compression test done on it and the reading are

Rotor#1 250RPM 6.4 5.5 5.4
Rotor#2 250RPM 6.4 5.9 7.1

Is it a good buy or since the reading are less than 7 does it cause any issues to the engine.. and what could be the life of the engine in this case. Hope someone can share their experience with this car as I'm pretty much new to the rotary engine.

Thank You..!!

jagz

According to RIWWP's Post about compression those numbers are terrifying.

SamoMX6

Thanks for the input! Is it pretty straight forward to get an extended warranty from Mazda, even if not buying from a Mazda dealer?

Yeah, I'm pretty proficient with paint re-finishing and some minor body work, so the 80th is still on the table. The dealer has been really good too, and the price might get down farther depending on what the compression score is. I've tried to play it cool so far too, haha, it's tough because all I want to do is talk someones head off about these cars!

Thanks for the rust and CAT tips, I will have a better look when I take the car for the compression test.

And yeah, chaitu1111, from what I've read, that is a straight fail for an engine. Any single number of 6.9 is a fail, and all of yours are less. Unless the they measured differently somehow, it's not great.

SamoMX6

I got the compression numbers:

Rotor 1: 6.8, 6.8, 6.9
Rotor 2: 6.7, 6.7, 6.7

But the didn't give me the RPM!!! I asked several times and I don't think the dealer really understood how important that was. The results were just written in pen on paper. I was told the tech thought these were very good, and that they don't ever see numbers over 7.5. So really, could mean anything. At 250 it's barely a pass, at 200 it's stellar... Uuugh.

The car hasn't had trouble starting, but I've only tested it twice now. It takes a couple seconds longer to start than my 4cyl car, but who knows if it's engine, starter or coils/plugs/wires.

Still at 8100, but the dealer also had a "fee" of a grand on top... So not ideal really, considering the risk.

I did call Mazda Canada, and the engine core warranty is valid until august/September this year.

gwilliams6

Hey SamoMX6 I own a 2008 40th Anniversary Edition so I am partial to them. However I think you should pass on this one as the engine test numbers (if at or near 250rpm) are marginal at best and the original Mazda engine warranty is out in August. Unless you get a Mazda Certified warranty (only from a Mazda dealer selling this car) or another used car dealer's warranty that would cover your engine, you are looking at maybe no help to get this engine replaced past August.

With this car, you may ultimately have to pay thousands for a rebuilt motor, if or when it fails. Rotary engines can run for a time with low compression, but this is no way to start your ownership of an RX8 with a poor engine, unless you already have the funds or warranty for a rebuilt motor. And it looks like you will have other costs to get this one in better condition.

I would recommend you look for a good condition Series 2 model with lower mileage, and with its Series 2 improvements like a better fuel pump, a third oil metering line to lubricate the engine internals, improved suspension, lower gear ratio for improved low end, and an extra gallon capacity in the fuel tank.

The Mazda engine warranty of 8yrs/100,000 miles would apply to any Series 2 RX8 (from car's original date of sale), so you would have years remaining on its Mazda warranty .

SamoMX6

Thanks for the feedback gwilliams6! Yeah, I agree, and I think the risks of having to put a new engine in this one are too high. I'd love to find an R3 that is in great shape with low miles. I have the budget for a good condition series 2. So, a series 1 that needs a new engine will end up costing that much anyways, plus the hassle of having to get an engine installed/not having a car for a while.

I think I might bide my time until I see a nice R3, and keep test driving other RX-8's that come up here so I have a better feel for what to look for.

Appreciate it!