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Old 09-23-2021, 11:07 AM
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New Member, new(ish) to rotaries, compression test results.

Hey guys, I picked up a rolling shell and pulled some Renesi (Renesises?) from the junkyard. Did a compression test to see what was what, and I'm really curious what you guys think of my compression test results.

This is a junkyard motor I pulled a while ago. Test was done on cold engine out of the car, starter wasn't great and even my battery was struggling to keep up a bit so on the last tests rpm was pretty low.

First test I got:
F: 26, 54, 26 psi
R: 95, 65, 95 psi

So then I added a bit of oil into the housings and got:
F: 98, 96, 78 psi
R: 169, 123, 139 psi

What do you guys think of those numbers? Worth risking the effort of dropping it in and getting it running, warmed up, get some gas and oil through it, and test again? Or should I just forget it?
Any other tips?

Vid below for more info:

Old 09-25-2021, 06:50 PM
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When you got the engine from the junkyard, was it sealed in any way? My best bet was that the rotors and seals most likely rusted together. Oil and spinning enough times may have broken seals loose.

When hot, generally around 65psi @250rpm is when the engine will die at idle. A new engine depending on the build quality should be anywhere from 100psi(poor mans rebuild) to 120psi+

Personally I'd say that engine is either not going to run or not going to run for very long. Your readings do not seem to be correct as well, so hard to say if it would even start.
Old 09-26-2021, 08:03 PM
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The engine wasn’t sealed in any way. The car came in and I pulled the motor myself (u-pick style yard). The car had some front end damage. I assume it was running and crashed, which is how it ended up at the yard. The car wouldn’t have sat long before I pulled the motor. Of course that’s all just me guessing. All I know for sure is that I got the motor out myself not long after the car showed up to the yard.

The engine did sit in my dry garage for several months before I got around to testing it.

I’m assuming you mean my reading being incorrect is because of the high numbers on the second go?
Old 09-26-2021, 11:00 PM
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Regardless of the silly rotor 2 numbers, rotor 1 is failing either way (and these are cold, so higher, numbers, right?).
Oil closes up seal gaps, so while you may have artificially improved the compression, once it's running I wouldn't bet on the effect lasting.

Whether it's worth the time and fluids you would spend just to see if it runs.. I dunno. There's not enough winning cues here. I would put all that into a known good rebuild. Some folks have more time and money to mess around.
Old 09-27-2021, 10:28 AM
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Yeah you’re right no matter how you slice it that front rotor has very poor numbers compared to the rear which in itself is quite telling.
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