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Let me try to clarify my earlier statement. The tray hanging down is not good, but it should be causing trouble with your highway temps, not your idle temps. If you keep the car, I would get it replaced.
There are ways to get the fans to come on sooner. Make sure they both work first, then we can discuss that. If they have missing blades, you'll need new fans
Let me try to clarify my earlier statement. The tray hanging down is not good, but it should be causing trouble with your highway temps, not your idle temps. If you keep the car, I would get it replaced.
There are ways to get the fans to come on sooner. Make sure they both work first, then we can discuss that. If they have missing blades, you'll need new fans
It does smoke at start up but stops daily quick. The coolant level has dropped slightly but it might have overflowed yesterday as the power steering failed a few minutes after I got off the freeway. Also, there was pressure on the cap after sitting overnight. If going to do the throttle body coolant bypass and will see if the cooling system is full when I do.
P.S. I should mention the engine only has 37,000 miles on it, but overall the car has 110,000.
Throttle body bypass wont do you a ton of good. Smoke on startup? Not good. Unfortunately, low mileage does not mean much. A coolant seal can be damaged in a matter of minutes if the car overheats.
Brand new starter. The problem is likely the heavily corroded negative battery cable. Noticed when I installed the ignition kit that it didn't want to start with the extra ground on the fender. Hooked it to the battery and it made a huge difference. And it only takes that long because I don't want to fry the starter so I let it cool off
I dont think so. We call it a coolant seal, in reality it is a big rubber gasket. If you have a blown seal, that narrow passage has been exposed to hot combustion gases, and the metal damaged. Worst case, its going to look like this
Blue devil isnt going to hold up for long inside our engines.
Actually. What they did was supposedly got it running and when the tech supposedly smelled burning coolant he took the radiator cap off and it supposedly shot off. The reason I am not inclined to believe they even got it started is because they reduced the deflooding charge (what I took it in believing it needed) from $180 to $48. In the 5 days I have had it running I have not experienced any issues related to pressure in the cooling systems, just heat. I have also noticed that the fans kit on fairly late in my opinion, will have to check at what temp and get back to you, but I know they should come on sooner.
No issues related to coolant system pressure? If you want to keep guessing then rock on man but your really don't know what you are dealing with, it would be wise for you to take it to a qualified mechanic. This issue needs to be properly diagnosed to determine what you are dealing with.
No issues related to coolant system pressure? If you want to keep guessing then rock on man but your really don't know what you are dealing with, it would be wise for you to take it to a qualified mechanic. This issue needs to be properly diagnosed to determine what you are dealing with.
When I stated no issues with cooling system pressure I simply meant that if it was forcing combustion through the radiator as they described, then pressure would build up until the cap bled off the extra pressure. As my car has yet to do that I stated there are no issues. And your suggestion to take it to a qualified mechanic? Should I just have it towed into the Nissan Dealership I am a Mechanic for (been a mechanic for 6 years)? Or should I let me neighbor who has been a mechanic for 15 years work on it?
When I stated no issues with cooling system pressure I simply meant that if it was forcing combustion through the radiator as they described, then pressure would build up until the cap bled off the extra pressure. As my car has yet to do that I stated there are no issues. And your suggestion to take it to a qualified mechanic? Should I just have it towed into the Nissan Dealership I am a Mechanic for (been a mechanic for 6 years)? Or should I let me neighbor who has been a mechanic for 15 years work on it?
You are mechanic but you are posting here asking these types of questions? Cooling issues are simple to diagnose, But then again what do I know, you have been a mechanic for 6 years.....I guess this is why I never let "professonial" mechanics touch my baby. But hey man if you are dead set on not properly diagnosing the problem it's cool with me.
You are mechanic but you are posting here asking these types of questions? Cooling issues are simple to diagnose, But then again what do I know, you have been a mechanic for 6 years.....I guess this is why I never let "professonial" mechanics touch my baby. But hey man if you are dead set on not properly diagnosing the problem it's cool with me.
I am posting here because I have limited experience with Rotaries. And yes, I know how to diagnose my cooling issues, unfortunately as I currently do not have a garage and it is currently 103° with 30% humidity I choose to pose the questions here while I wait for cooler temps to continue diagnosing. I know that the easiest way to check for bad coolant seals is to remove the radiator cap and start it to check for bubbling, I also know that I need to check the radiator, fans, and the areas around them for blackage to the air flow. I also know I need to check to make sure the fans are kicking on at the correct temp. But again, as it is 103° and I have no garage I have chosen to post a question to maybe get suggestions on what to check FIRST. Now, can we move past this and get back to the topic at hand or do I need to continue to prove that I do know what I am doing?
Furthermore, the reason I became a mechanic in the first place is due to a shop destroying an engine in a car I used to have doing something as simple as replacing the harmonic balancer.
Last edited by ShadowGryphon; 08-09-2015 at 06:27 PM.
If you're a mechanic, I'd just ask around to get the name(s) of a local/regional rotary mechanic. And I'd be willing to drive a town or two (or three) over to visit him. I suspect they're out there, and I would think the rotary is different enough - in many ways - that it might be worth locating one and having him look at your car.
If you're a mechanic, I'd just ask around to get the name(s) of a local/regional rotary mechanic. And I'd be willing to drive a town or two (or three) over to visit him. I suspect they're out there, and I would think the rotary is different enough - in many ways - that it might be worth locating one and having him look at your car.
I had a friend of mine who used to work with them look at it when I first got it. He doesn't believe what the dealer said either.
A cooling system is a cooling system, it's not magical or vastly different on a rotary and any decent mechanic should be able to figure out what the problem is within an hour.
A cooling system is a cooling system, it's not magical or vastly different on a rotary and any decent mechanic should be able to figure out what the problem is within an hour.
I'd already have it figured out if it wasn't for the temps here in Mississippi lately. Will see if its cool enough to check for the compression through the radiator after work.
Excuses excuses. I spent all weekend wrenching on my jeep in 100F+ weather. Shops here are rarely air conditioned, so any mechanic working in south Texas has to deal with it every day for a few months out of the year.
Excuses excuses. I spent all weekend wrenching on my jeep in 100F+ weather. Shops here are rarely air conditioned, so any mechanic working in south Texas has to deal with it every day for a few months out of the year.
Maybe you did, but being that I am of a heavier stature 103° heat with 50%+ humidity kinda puts a hamper on any plans. Especially with no cloud cover and no shade.
08-09-2015, 05:05 PM
