New Owner SAFE Question and Answer thread
08-19-2011 | 01:47 PM
#327
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08-19-2011 | 02:01 PM
#328
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I get the feeling that you believe that a rebuilt engine is a bad thing. If a piston engine'ed car has to get it's engine rebuilt, "in today's world", it is more likely a mark against the owner of the car for not taking care of it than it is a mark against the manufacturer.
For a rotary, having a rebuilt engine is a GOOD thing. A DAMN GOOD thing. If I was hunting for a replacement RX-8, or another one because I lost this one, I'd specifically hunt down one with a freshly rebuilt engine! And I am not joking at all!
After all, why wouldn't you want a fresh engine? Ask yourself that!
So, how do you determine if it's been replaced? You can get the serial number from the plate on the side of the engine, and I'm sure with enough coaxing you can get Mazda corp to dig up what the original serial number was for the engine it shipped with.
How do you determine if it was just rebuilt? Well, you can't.
You CAN get a compression test on it. And good compression numbers on a rebuilt engine work exactly the same way as good compression numbers on an original engine. Either way, you have a good engine! Or if they are bad numbers, then it doesn't matter if it is original or not, because it's bad!
I don't see what the worry is about.
08-19-2011 | 02:28 PM
#329
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That is all okay but the problem is in Pakistan you can't have a compression test nor can you send the car toMazda cause there's no Mazda here officially.Here its most likely been worked on by a not so professional mechanic.
08-19-2011 | 02:31 PM
#330
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Ah, ok, I can understand your concern now. Sorry, I wasn't remembering that you were in Pakistan. My apologies.
So um, yeah, there isn't really a good way unless there is something obvious like mismatched looking rotor housings (one housing looking differently aged than another). Any well built engine will look exactly like a factory engine. Most poorly built engines will still look exactly like a factory engine.
So um, yeah, there isn't really a good way unless there is something obvious like mismatched looking rotor housings (one housing looking differently aged than another). Any well built engine will look exactly like a factory engine. Most poorly built engines will still look exactly like a factory engine.
08-19-2011 | 05:50 PM
#331
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Im still gonna buy the car regardless,just need your take on another issue,should i get the 07 Kuro or the 06 Full options (sat nav,rear view camera,sunroof) Mazdaspeed body kit exhaust one ? Both have almost the same mileage and will cost the same so any thing on the 07 that i should go for ? it has no options just a plain Kuro but i read 07's are more reliable and that 06's had engine problems.
08-21-2011 | 02:52 AM
#332
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Guys Im soon going to buy an 8 but one i have available here is a 03 year model:Link: http://www.cellbazaar.com/web/item-details/title/RX-82003-Blue.aspx?i=330b16d0-0119-46d1-a299-9d2fcde6e4b7&m=%2fitems%2fcategory%2fnew%2fcar%2fM azda%2fpage-1%2fsort%2f0.aspx[/URL]
But after reading your posts it seems that the older models are more prom]ne to problems...so can you guys suggest me whether is it good to go for the 03 model? btw its a 231ps 6spd.
Secondly i see some of you write something about Fuel-ups....what does that mean? do i need to do that to a new one as well? Please help me as im really confused and this is gonna be my first rotary.
Cheers
But after reading your posts it seems that the older models are more prom]ne to problems...so can you guys suggest me whether is it good to go for the 03 model? btw its a 231ps 6spd.
Secondly i see some of you write something about Fuel-ups....what does that mean? do i need to do that to a new one as well? Please help me as im really confused and this is gonna be my first rotary.
Cheers
08-21-2011 | 09:44 AM
#333
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From: Pacific Northwest
The entire point is providing you information so you can make your own decision on what is worth it and so you know what you are getting yourself into. The early years are priced much lower, so it makes them really appealing, even if you expect that you have to immediately rebuild the engine.
Just decide what you are comfortable with handling or facing, and what you aren't, and select your year from there.
08-21-2011 | 11:33 AM
#335
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I've been having the 2004 rx8 for couple months now. It get extremely hot under the hood when i take it for a drive for around 10 min. And I usually keep in between the 2-3x rpm when drive. Then when I shut off the car and try to restart it it either take around 10 seconds to turn on or doesn't even turn on at all, so I would have to wait till it cools down. What should I get or change to fix the problem? Can someone please help me with this problem?
08-21-2011 | 01:37 PM
#336
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Im still gonna buy the car regardless,just need your take on another issue,should i get the 07 Kuro or the 06 Full options (sat nav,rear view camera,sunroof) Mazdaspeed body kit exhaust one ? Both have almost the same mileage and will cost the same so any thing on the 07 that i should go for ? it has no options just a plain Kuro but i read 07's are more reliable and that 06's had engine problems.
It's a risk no matter which way you look at it, you just have to decide for yourself what you are willing to deal with.
And I usually keep in between the 2-3x rpm when drive. Then when I shut off the car and try to restart it it either take around 10 seconds to turn on or doesn't even turn on at all, so I would have to wait till it cools down. What should I get or change to fix the problem? Can someone please help me with this problem?
Low compression probably, however, given the bolded part of your post, your engine is probably carboned up BAD. Lugging it in the 2-3,000 RPM range everywhere is BAD for this engine. It's not bad being there, it's bad being there all the time. Take it out and floor it to redline in 1st, then 2nd, and if you have the room and are comfortable, redline it in 3rd as well (~93mph, illegal speeds, so your choice there). Then return to driving it like normal and pay attention to how it feels.
If it suddenly seems like it's driving at all smoother, then carbon is certainly your problem. Search for the Seafoam DIY on the boards and then do that. It will probably restore some lost compression. Driving it around all carboned up isn't really something that it can permanently recover from though, as it wears the seals faster. You probably won't be able to return to original compression numbers, but all you are looking for is an improvement now.
08-22-2011 | 07:31 AM
#339
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Even more reason to make sure you take care of it properly.
I don't know what you mean by "FUEL-UPS" either, unless you are referring to "fill-ups" which normally refers to when we stop at a gas station to fill the gas tank (petrol tank, fuel, etc...).
If that isn't what you are referring to, then I need some context to help define it for you.
I don't know what you mean by "FUEL-UPS" either, unless you are referring to "fill-ups" which normally refers to when we stop at a gas station to fill the gas tank (petrol tank, fuel, etc...).
If that isn't what you are referring to, then I need some context to help define it for you.
08-22-2011 | 10:14 AM
#340
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Transmision problem? Help?
Hey I don't know if is only my car that does this but everytime I drive nonstop for a long distance let's say one hour, I feel the bottom part of the shift stick really hot. And also the cup holder. is it transmission problem?
08-22-2011 | 12:04 PM
#341
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It depends on the amount of heat.
If it is just 'warm' to 'uncomfortable', then it's normal heat from the transmission and exhaust/cat.
If it actually gets painful, then it's not normal, and it's usually a sign that your catalytic converter is clogging up and overheating. If your transmission got that much heat, the fluid would cook and it would fail fast.
I'm guessing that it's just normal transmission heat you are experiencing.
The age of your fluid CAN affect it, so if your transmission has old fluid (more than ~30,000 miles or so) changing it to fresh fluid should reduce that temperature some. (and changes are really easy, since you can refill it through the shifter hole)
If it is just 'warm' to 'uncomfortable', then it's normal heat from the transmission and exhaust/cat.
If it actually gets painful, then it's not normal, and it's usually a sign that your catalytic converter is clogging up and overheating. If your transmission got that much heat, the fluid would cook and it would fail fast.
I'm guessing that it's just normal transmission heat you are experiencing.
The age of your fluid CAN affect it, so if your transmission has old fluid (more than ~30,000 miles or so) changing it to fresh fluid should reduce that temperature some. (and changes are really easy, since you can refill it through the shifter hole)
08-23-2011 | 01:27 PM
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I try not to flame people in this thread, because people are looking to learn. But when you ask something that is posted on the first page, it strains my limits somewhat.
Cold Weather
I would recommend working on getting a set of alternate rims and winter tires. The rims can be complete garbage (mine are mismatched ), but it makes any winter condition drivable, and even fun! (as long as you are still clearing the snow with your air dam, but if you aren't, no one else should be on the road there anyway, the government would probably be shut down) If you take this route, buy them sometime in the summer when no one is looking and you can pay significantly less.
Cold itself is nothing to worry about unless your ignition system is weak. Stay on top of your ignition system (learn to subconsciously pay attention to the stability of the revs and how smooth, or not, the power band is, etc... Start feeling that hesistation and roughness, and it doesn't go away with WOT runs to redline, your ignition system is starting the downhill. Doesn't mean it will go right away, but the longer you wait, the greater and greater your flood risk, power loss, and mileage drop.
Also throwing in that I have driven my 8 through the last 4 New England winters. The car you have doesn't matter for anything but sheer ground clearance. FWD vehicles and SUVs are more likely to have more winter friendly tires on OEM, sports cars are more likely to have OEM summer tires, and this is where the difference is. As long as you have ground clearance though, my 8, with winter tires, will out-drive any SUV or jeep on OEM tires. My work is on a hill, the highest point in the state, and each winter I regularly climb the last steep hill into work, often winding my way around stuck SUVs and trucks.
Outside of tires, the 8 is low torque, more weight over the rear than most big engined sports cars, and a great set of driver aids. My only concern for driving it in the winter at all is the salt. The only time I got stuck was when it started dumping snow and the plows were not sent out until literally half of the state was stranded in gridlock and ditches, and the snow was simply too deep to push through. The low ground clearance was a bonus though, I was one of the first stuck, and thus got one of the only tow trucks. The tow truck got stuck on my street about 30 yards from my driveway after dropping my 8 off. Even he needed the extra weight at that point.
Cold Weather
I would recommend working on getting a set of alternate rims and winter tires. The rims can be complete garbage (mine are mismatched ), but it makes any winter condition drivable, and even fun! (as long as you are still clearing the snow with your air dam, but if you aren't, no one else should be on the road there anyway, the government would probably be shut down) If you take this route, buy them sometime in the summer when no one is looking and you can pay significantly less.
Cold itself is nothing to worry about unless your ignition system is weak. Stay on top of your ignition system (learn to subconsciously pay attention to the stability of the revs and how smooth, or not, the power band is, etc... Start feeling that hesistation and roughness, and it doesn't go away with WOT runs to redline, your ignition system is starting the downhill. Doesn't mean it will go right away, but the longer you wait, the greater and greater your flood risk, power loss, and mileage drop.
Also throwing in that I have driven my 8 through the last 4 New England winters. The car you have doesn't matter for anything but sheer ground clearance. FWD vehicles and SUVs are more likely to have more winter friendly tires on OEM, sports cars are more likely to have OEM summer tires, and this is where the difference is. As long as you have ground clearance though, my 8, with winter tires, will out-drive any SUV or jeep on OEM tires. My work is on a hill, the highest point in the state, and each winter I regularly climb the last steep hill into work, often winding my way around stuck SUVs and trucks.
Outside of tires, the 8 is low torque, more weight over the rear than most big engined sports cars, and a great set of driver aids. My only concern for driving it in the winter at all is the salt. The only time I got stuck was when it started dumping snow and the plows were not sent out until literally half of the state was stranded in gridlock and ditches, and the snow was simply too deep to push through. The low ground clearance was a bonus though, I was one of the first stuck, and thus got one of the only tow trucks. The tow truck got stuck on my street about 30 yards from my driveway after dropping my 8 off. Even he needed the extra weight at that point.
08-25-2011 | 06:56 AM
#346
So how much power do we have anyway?:
Well, first take a look at the numbers. Notice how they are lower than an Evo's 300hp rating. And they are lower than a Mustang's 260hp-340hp.
This means the RX-8 is SLOWER in a straight line.
If you buy an RX-8, do NOT be shocked that you won't win at the drag strip. If you want to win there, buy a different car. If you buy the RX-8, don't come crying to us later on. We bought the car knowing full well how much power it produced. Those of us that want more do something about it. We don't create threads to whine about it. You can join us in flaming the people that do create threads whining about it, because you were smart enough to learn first. They weren't.
Well, first take a look at the numbers. Notice how they are lower than an Evo's 300hp rating. And they are lower than a Mustang's 260hp-340hp.
This means the RX-8 is SLOWER in a straight line.
If you buy an RX-8, do NOT be shocked that you won't win at the drag strip. If you want to win there, buy a different car. If you buy the RX-8, don't come crying to us later on. We bought the car knowing full well how much power it produced. Those of us that want more do something about it. We don't create threads to whine about it. You can join us in flaming the people that do create threads whining about it, because you were smart enough to learn first. They weren't.
guess ill just have to outmaneuver him or stick to autoX
but
...ive HEARD that the Evo handles better and dominates at autoX too 
i guess there is no hope of being competitive against such a beast of a car
nice edit Pearl
08-25-2011 | 03:15 PM
#347
dude...Evo is a really nice car I have to say, but it is also in a different price range. I thought it's A stock in AutoX? Plus it can do RallyX as well...
I also want to point out this is an awesome thread, if I haven't said that before. It was very very helpful when I was shopping for my 8. Thanks RIWWP!
I also want to point out this is an awesome thread, if I haven't said that before. It was very very helpful when I was shopping for my 8. Thanks RIWWP!
