New Owner SAFE Question and Answer thread
#651
God damn that was a long thread.
There was some great info at the Beggining and here and there through the posts but I can't believe how many questions were asked over again.
Well 4 years in this forum and I finally got my 8.
Thanks for all the info guys.
There was some great info at the Beggining and here and there through the posts but I can't believe how many questions were asked over again.
Well 4 years in this forum and I finally got my 8.
Thanks for all the info guys.
#653
i urgently need help. when driving my rx8 manual 6 speed renesis for the first time in the morning, the traction control light, the brake light, the DSC light all come on after about 3 kilometers of driving. I then stop and swicth of the car and restart the car and for the rest of the day these lights don't come on again while driving.....help me here.....i have new brake shoes in the car....what can it be?
#654
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This is typically a problem with the negative battery cable not grounding the electrical systems of the car. Don't just 'check it' visually. Disconnect both battery cables (negative first!) clean the posts, clean the clamps. Reconnect them (positive first!) and make sure they are seated correctly and very securely.
If that isn't your problem then you would have the much rarer problem with an ABS wheel speed sensor.
If that isn't your problem then you would have the much rarer problem with an ABS wheel speed sensor.
#655
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Normally I would totally agree with RIWWP.
But what sticks out to me is you said you are getting a "BRAKE" light on dash.
I am thinking you 'could' have a defective ABS module in the brake line pressure modulator/distribution area of hydraulics inside the ABS unit.
If this is the issue it can only be rectified by renewing ABS unit..No service parts available.
I would then go with Wheel Speed Sensors (which are much much cheaper BTW).
I have seen more S1 ABS Module issues on our forum than WSS, usually WSS are OK unless the black wire to Sensor has been ripped out by running over something (stick-branch) or car accident or by poor Brake Pad install.
Or possibly whoever replaced your "new brake shoes" (brake pads) may have damaged WSS during Pad install?
Who did your Pads, front or rear?..check WSS.
Brand New ABS Module F1Y3-43-7A0C about $1500.
WSS depending on location for correct Part Number about $75 each wheel.
But what sticks out to me is you said you are getting a "BRAKE" light on dash.
I am thinking you 'could' have a defective ABS module in the brake line pressure modulator/distribution area of hydraulics inside the ABS unit.
If this is the issue it can only be rectified by renewing ABS unit..No service parts available.
I would then go with Wheel Speed Sensors (which are much much cheaper BTW).
I have seen more S1 ABS Module issues on our forum than WSS, usually WSS are OK unless the black wire to Sensor has been ripped out by running over something (stick-branch) or car accident or by poor Brake Pad install.
Or possibly whoever replaced your "new brake shoes" (brake pads) may have damaged WSS during Pad install?
Who did your Pads, front or rear?..check WSS.
Brand New ABS Module F1Y3-43-7A0C about $1500.
WSS depending on location for correct Part Number about $75 each wheel.
#656
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Ash,
I agree with you on a direction to check if the battery connections are solid. However, I know from personal experience that if the battery terminals have issues, you can fault out quite a few systems.
I have a coolant overflow issue I'm trying to resolve (thread in Troubleshooting), and a few weeks ago one of these overflow events hosed my battery top with coolant while at ~8k rpm headed down an offramp about 1 second before I needed to start braking, and my power steering started studdering (not the connections, I wired them solid years ago), and the ABS, BRAKE, DSC, TCS, and CEL lights lit up. (yeah, was quite unnerving). After pulling over and turning off the car in a parking lot to check everything under the hood, I couldn't restart it until I cleaned and reseated the battery connections. Pretty sure the coolant shorted the battery briefly, and also got into the terminal connections causing connection issues.
So I believe battery connection issues can certainly cause what he is seeing.
I agree with you on a direction to check if the battery connections are solid. However, I know from personal experience that if the battery terminals have issues, you can fault out quite a few systems.
I have a coolant overflow issue I'm trying to resolve (thread in Troubleshooting), and a few weeks ago one of these overflow events hosed my battery top with coolant while at ~8k rpm headed down an offramp about 1 second before I needed to start braking, and my power steering started studdering (not the connections, I wired them solid years ago), and the ABS, BRAKE, DSC, TCS, and CEL lights lit up. (yeah, was quite unnerving). After pulling over and turning off the car in a parking lot to check everything under the hood, I couldn't restart it until I cleaned and reseated the battery connections. Pretty sure the coolant shorted the battery briefly, and also got into the terminal connections causing connection issues.
So I believe battery connection issues can certainly cause what he is seeing.
#657
*losing power*
Hi my rx8 was losing power and even dieing on me ive changed the ht leads got it running then the cat was glowing red(almost on fire) i have now replaced the cat(new) and it is still glowing but just around the sensor any ideas what the problem is?? (Sorry if this is on the wrong thread...not sure where is the best place to ask for advice on here)
Mod Note: Anyone that wants to help with this issue should go to his original post at: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...please-236860/
Hi my rx8 was losing power and even dieing on me ive changed the ht leads got it running then the cat was glowing red(almost on fire) i have now replaced the cat(new) and it is still glowing but just around the sensor any ideas what the problem is?? (Sorry if this is on the wrong thread...not sure where is the best place to ask for advice on here)
Mod Note: Anyone that wants to help with this issue should go to his original post at: https://www.rx8club.com/tech-garage-...please-236860/
#658
Super Moderator
*losing power*
Hi my rx8 was losing power and even dieing on me ive changed the ht leads got it running then the cat was glowing red(almost on fire) i have now replaced the cat(new) and it is still glowing but just around the sensor any ideas what the problem is?? (Sorry if this is on the wrong thread...not sure where is the best place to ask for advice on here)
Hi my rx8 was losing power and even dieing on me ive changed the ht leads got it running then the cat was glowing red(almost on fire) i have now replaced the cat(new) and it is still glowing but just around the sensor any ideas what the problem is?? (Sorry if this is on the wrong thread...not sure where is the best place to ask for advice on here)
#659
HELLO all!!!......I have read through alot of post on this forum over the last few days and i need someone to help me still lol. I test drove a 05 rx8 and completely fell in love with the car. The problem is that there are alot of miles on it....100,000 to be exact. The car was only owned by one owner and is in excellent condition and runs perfect. I have been trying to convince myself to not buy the car because of the "SCARY ROTARY ENGINE." Also it seems that just building one up for fun is expensive. You cant really get the gains with bolts on as you would a si civic. I am on the fence...this will be a daily driver should i take the chance with the "BEAUTIFUL RX8 or play it safe and buy a civic.
#660
HELLO all!!!......I have read through alot of post on this forum over the last few days and i need someone to help me still lol. I test drove a 05 rx8 and completely fell in love with the car. The problem is that there are alot of miles on it....100,000 to be exact. The car was only owned by one owner and is in excellent condition and runs perfect. I have been trying to convince myself to not buy the car because of the "SCARY ROTARY ENGINE." Also it seems that just building one up for fun is expensive. You cant really get the gains with bolts on as you would a si civic. I am on the fence...this will be a daily driver should i take the chance with the "BEAUTIFUL RX8 or play it safe and buy a civic.
I'm with you on this one. I'm trying to get a new car to make daily commute and the rx-8 is one of my dream cars that i wanted so bad. Recently about 3 days ago I found a 05 with 67,000 miles on it and was able to test drive it for 2 days before signing the paperwork and which is still in the works. Now the car shut off on me twice one at a red light and once at a stop sign. Took it back to dealers and they said they would get that fixed. I have read the post on all info needed and dont want to pass this offer up due to it being my dream car and just the over all the sensation of being happy!
Now when the engine shut off on me the battery and engine light came on and when i took it back the shop said the cad converter wasnt giving enough oxygen or something like that.. saying it looked good but computer said different. I'm not that much into specs and such so i got my work cut out for me but I just love the car. Don't got much money to spare with repairs but as I read with it being well maintained it is possible to keep things running smooth.
The posts indicated engine warranty was extended to 100,000 miles and they could give you a new starter as well (maybe on the starter). My question on this is, is this also good for the 05 RX-8? Call mazda support line and just ask for the parts?
#661
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HELLO all!!!......I have read through alot of post on this forum over the last few days and i need someone to help me still lol. I test drove a 05 rx8 and completely fell in love with the car. The problem is that there are alot of miles on it....100,000 to be exact. The car was only owned by one owner and is in excellent condition and runs perfect. I have been trying to convince myself to not buy the car because of the "SCARY ROTARY ENGINE." Also it seems that just building one up for fun is expensive. You cant really get the gains with bolts on as you would a si civic. I am on the fence...this will be a daily driver should i take the chance with the "BEAUTIFUL RX8 or play it safe and buy a civic.
Well, we can't make this decision for you. Read the first 9 points until you have the info solidly. If this is your only car, can you afford to be without it from time to time? Can you afford to pay to quickly get it up and running if not?
My 8 has performed quite well over the years in terms of reliability, but I would still not be comfortable with it as my only car. It's a car of passion, a car I love. But if I attempted to ignore the problems, or chance of problems, I'd be screwed in a heartbeat. Acknowledging that I'd need a backup car is part of the recognition of those issues.
I'm with you on this one. I'm trying to get a new car to make daily commute and the rx-8 is one of my dream cars that i wanted so bad. Recently about 3 days ago I found a 05 with 67,000 miles on it and was able to test drive it for 2 days before signing the paperwork and which is still in the works. Now the car shut off on me twice one at a red light and once at a stop sign. Took it back to dealers and they said they would get that fixed. I have read the post on all info needed and dont want to pass this offer up due to it being my dream car and just the over all the sensation of being happy!
Now when the engine shut off on me the battery and engine light came on and when i took it back the shop said the cad converter wasnt giving enough oxygen or something like that.. saying it looked good but computer said different. I'm not that much into specs and such so i got my work cut out for me but I just love the car. Don't got much money to spare with repairs but as I read with it being well maintained it is possible to keep things running smooth.
The posts indicated engine warranty was extended to 100,000 miles and they could give you a new starter as well (maybe on the starter). My question on this is, is this also good for the 05 RX-8? Call mazda support line and just ask for the parts?
Now when the engine shut off on me the battery and engine light came on and when i took it back the shop said the cad converter wasnt giving enough oxygen or something like that.. saying it looked good but computer said different. I'm not that much into specs and such so i got my work cut out for me but I just love the car. Don't got much money to spare with repairs but as I read with it being well maintained it is possible to keep things running smooth.
The posts indicated engine warranty was extended to 100,000 miles and they could give you a new starter as well (maybe on the starter). My question on this is, is this also good for the 05 RX-8? Call mazda support line and just ask for the parts?
The engine core does have an 8yr 100,000 mile warranty from the date of first sale of the car (original buyer). There was a TSB on the starter for 2004s and 2005s to get an upgraded starter. The car had to have been in the 3yr 36,000 mile bumper to bumper warranty in order to get a starter for free, AND the owner had to bring the car to a dealer and request it. If they didn't request it during the bumper to bumper period, then there was no free upgrade. You can still upgrade if you don't have it, but it will cost you. And buying the upgrade from Mazmart (vendor here) is far cheaper than a dealer. Replacement is 2 wire connectors and 2 bolts easily accessed under the car next to the transmission bellhousing.
#663
okay cool so i can most likely replace the starter myself if i get it.. which most likely I will i love that car. I had made it clear to them I understand its "as is sold" but will not purchase a car already dead! They do have like a mazda sister dealer in there lot if ya know what I mean, and is currently there in the mazda service center. Will give them a call tomorrow and ensure they are aware of all points you specified in this post
#665
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Suggestion....
Do the stuff in my signature block under $100 thread, specifically cleaning sensors (MAF) and engine grounds. After that, look for a DIY on cleaning the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. I need to add that to the thread, but have not yet. And, use decent gas.
Some injector cleaner might not hurt either, I like the Lucas brand. See if it cleans things up.
More data on car as well, auto, 6 speed, where you live....
BTW, mine is my daily driver, 70 mile round trip. The best part of the day.
Do the stuff in my signature block under $100 thread, specifically cleaning sensors (MAF) and engine grounds. After that, look for a DIY on cleaning the Eccentric Shaft Sensor. I need to add that to the thread, but have not yet. And, use decent gas.
Some injector cleaner might not hurt either, I like the Lucas brand. See if it cleans things up.
More data on car as well, auto, 6 speed, where you live....
BTW, mine is my daily driver, 70 mile round trip. The best part of the day.
#666
Turn off/on procedure
Now RIWWP I've been looking through the forum and found so many people saying different things. Since you created this thread and seem to know tons I would like to get your opinion on starting the car and turning it off... Do i have to wait a certain amount of time before I turn it back on? I know there is a period in between before turning it on and off but not sure how long.
#667
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Quoting post #6 rather than re-typing it, as the content still doesn't change
How do I shut off an RX-8?
This somewhat ridiculous question keeps popping up recently. Other than the obvious "turn the key counter clockwise and remove", there is literally nothing special that you have to do. You will find people that insist that I am wrong in making this statement, but no, it is just that they are taking one symptom and extrapolating preventative measures even further off base than they already were. For example, you will find people that swear by reving the engine to 4,000rpm in neutral and cutting the key out there, with the revs up. They are doing this under the assumption that the faster spinning rotors will help sweep excess fuel out of the rotor housing, to prevent a flood. The problem with this idea is already explained in the Flooding section above. If your engine is already warm, there is no excess fuel being dumped in! (Except perhaps the fuel needed to rev to 4,000rpm). Shutting it off at 4,000rpm is no different in terms of fuel than shutting it off at 750rpm. If your engine is currently cold, then this could only POSSIBLY have an impact if your ignition or starter or battery is failing, in which case 'yes', it might help prevent a flood. But a flood is a symptom of another issue anyway, and only happens on START, not on SHUTDOWN.
This somewhat ridiculous question keeps popping up recently. Other than the obvious "turn the key counter clockwise and remove", there is literally nothing special that you have to do. You will find people that insist that I am wrong in making this statement, but no, it is just that they are taking one symptom and extrapolating preventative measures even further off base than they already were. For example, you will find people that swear by reving the engine to 4,000rpm in neutral and cutting the key out there, with the revs up. They are doing this under the assumption that the faster spinning rotors will help sweep excess fuel out of the rotor housing, to prevent a flood. The problem with this idea is already explained in the Flooding section above. If your engine is already warm, there is no excess fuel being dumped in! (Except perhaps the fuel needed to rev to 4,000rpm). Shutting it off at 4,000rpm is no different in terms of fuel than shutting it off at 750rpm. If your engine is currently cold, then this could only POSSIBLY have an impact if your ignition or starter or battery is failing, in which case 'yes', it might help prevent a flood. But a flood is a symptom of another issue anyway, and only happens on START, not on SHUTDOWN.
#668
ah yes i read this and and completely forgot about it, my bad.. so then other then really having a cold engine nothing i have to do but one thing it didnt answer is in between turning on engine and off.. there is no time limit i have to wait? I heard in the past you cant just turn the engine off and on like if you go run into the corner store for a quick drink or something you cant just turn the car back on within a minute or something
#669
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There is no truth or accuracy in that. As fast as you can make the motions to restart, you can restart.
About the only way that fast restarts could cause an issue is that drawing on the battery for the starter's power is significant, and shutting it off and turning it on without any time to recharge the battery in between will eventually give you a battery with too low of a charge. Will probably take 3-6 times, depending on how fast your engine fires when cranking.
Oil pressure is dropped, but oil film is still there. Ignition is still fine, engine is still up to temp so no excess fuel, etc...
Fingers might get tired though.
About the only way that fast restarts could cause an issue is that drawing on the battery for the starter's power is significant, and shutting it off and turning it on without any time to recharge the battery in between will eventually give you a battery with too low of a charge. Will probably take 3-6 times, depending on how fast your engine fires when cranking.
Oil pressure is dropped, but oil film is still there. Ignition is still fine, engine is still up to temp so no excess fuel, etc...
Fingers might get tired though.
#670
well good thing is they already replaced the coils and plugs and wires for me. They took it for a test run and was good but when came back same thing. I tried to tell them to run a compression but he said must talk to guy selling the car to put more service in which I'm going to inform him he must... Other then that they are going to call mazda again and ask for engine test or something. Atleast getting new coils n wires to start off so far
#671
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I've been extensively researching about the 8 for the past 3 or 4 months, and this thread has everything I found out and more. Nice work and great thread!
Anyways to the point so I've decided I want to get the 8. Unfortunately I was a few days late making the decision because I had been looking at this 06 shinka with 39k miles for 14.5k, for about 2 weeks now, but it got sold today
Alright so I was wondering if you could give me an opinion on these two cars
Cars for Sale: 2007 Mazda RX-8 Sport in Atlanta, GA 30319: Coupe Details - 314246780 - AutoTrader.com
And this one
Cars for Sale: 2006 Mazda RX-8 SHINKA in Atlanta, GA 30340: Coupe Details - 319852695 - AutoTrader.com
And whatever one I chose I was gonna ask them to get a compression test and a vehicle maintenance check or inspection by the local Mazda dealer
Anyways to the point so I've decided I want to get the 8. Unfortunately I was a few days late making the decision because I had been looking at this 06 shinka with 39k miles for 14.5k, for about 2 weeks now, but it got sold today
Alright so I was wondering if you could give me an opinion on these two cars
Cars for Sale: 2007 Mazda RX-8 Sport in Atlanta, GA 30319: Coupe Details - 314246780 - AutoTrader.com
And this one
Cars for Sale: 2006 Mazda RX-8 SHINKA in Atlanta, GA 30340: Coupe Details - 319852695 - AutoTrader.com
And whatever one I chose I was gonna ask them to get a compression test and a vehicle maintenance check or inspection by the local Mazda dealer
#672
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i say the first one, its only 1300 more and you get almost 17k miles less on it. Not to mention its an 07 so your engine warranty runs out in 2015 opposed to 2014.
they appear to be the same with the exception of body color. If you dont like black, try broadening out your search to farther distances. Im sure theres more if you drive 30min to an hour further away.
they appear to be the same with the exception of body color. If you dont like black, try broadening out your search to farther distances. Im sure theres more if you drive 30min to an hour further away.
#673
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I agree with you in that aspect and btw i like the black over blue, but the blue is a shinka. However more than anything im just worried the accident the 07 Rx8 was in might hinder its performance. Is this a possibility or am I just being paranoid?
#674
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oh i didnt check the accident record. The rx8 resale is low enough, dont throw yourself into a pit by getting one with an accident on its record.
the blue one isnt bad, just talk down the price a tad if you can. or keep looking for a black one.
now ive seen this come up several times about the 06 shinkas. My friend has a 06 SS "shinka" but personally the only shinkas to me are the black cherry 05 shinka and the copper red shinka, both having the "shinka" badge on the window... Now im not sure if the 06 "shinkas" that didnt come in copper red have the same badge/ upgraded shocks/other stuff that the shinka has(i think they have bilsteins same as the 40th anny)
so, if they dont.. that blue rx8 is virtually the same as the black one.
i know they made shinkas that werent in copper red in 06, but im just not sure if they are "real shinkas" Do you know what im saying?
anyway, its always better to buy a car without an accident on its record. Alot of it depends on the type of damage, there could be rust hiding from view... more problems. Also if the car was totalled then say good bye to mazdas warranty on everything.
Back to the topic at hand, shinka vs non shinka. Unless it is the copper red/black cherry with tan interior. Almost every "upgrade" the shinka has can be duplicated if not made better on a non shinka. This only applies if you are going to be doing work to your car adding aftermarket parts. If you plan to keep the car stock then go for the shinka.
the blue one isnt bad, just talk down the price a tad if you can. or keep looking for a black one.
now ive seen this come up several times about the 06 shinkas. My friend has a 06 SS "shinka" but personally the only shinkas to me are the black cherry 05 shinka and the copper red shinka, both having the "shinka" badge on the window... Now im not sure if the 06 "shinkas" that didnt come in copper red have the same badge/ upgraded shocks/other stuff that the shinka has(i think they have bilsteins same as the 40th anny)
so, if they dont.. that blue rx8 is virtually the same as the black one.
i know they made shinkas that werent in copper red in 06, but im just not sure if they are "real shinkas" Do you know what im saying?
anyway, its always better to buy a car without an accident on its record. Alot of it depends on the type of damage, there could be rust hiding from view... more problems. Also if the car was totalled then say good bye to mazdas warranty on everything.
Back to the topic at hand, shinka vs non shinka. Unless it is the copper red/black cherry with tan interior. Almost every "upgrade" the shinka has can be duplicated if not made better on a non shinka. This only applies if you are going to be doing work to your car adding aftermarket parts. If you plan to keep the car stock then go for the shinka.
#675
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Thanks for all your input
And yea I agree with you all the way on the shinkas and their color. I actually really like the black cherry color.
Also if I had no intention of reselling it and the warranty was still valid would the black one still be a possible choice? And the shinka are you telling me to try and lower the price cus its overpriced? And now knowing the 07 had an accident, what do you think of the pricing?
Sorry if im asking too many questions ><
And yea I agree with you all the way on the shinkas and their color. I actually really like the black cherry color.
Also if I had no intention of reselling it and the warranty was still valid would the black one still be a possible choice? And the shinka are you telling me to try and lower the price cus its overpriced? And now knowing the 07 had an accident, what do you think of the pricing?
Sorry if im asking too many questions ><