New Owner SAFE Question and Answer thread
#702
I am looking at getting a RX-8 and am debating between a base 2005 with 25,000 miles or a 2004 fully loaded with 67,000 miles. I do not plan to road race, just a daily driver; sort of, i work from home.
Questions:
Should I get the extended warranty? It will put me over what i would like to spend on the 05. If I go with the 04 is a warranty a must?
What car would you get for basically a $2,000 difference?
Thank you in advance,
Jim
Questions:
Should I get the extended warranty? It will put me over what i would like to spend on the 05. If I go with the 04 is a warranty a must?
What car would you get for basically a $2,000 difference?
Thank you in advance,
Jim
#703
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Both are out of their factory warranty (if the 05 isn't, it's about to be). So getting an extended warranty can be a good thing for your peace of mind.
However, I'd pick the one with the better compression scores....
Yes, I'm serious.
If they are equal, I'd go for the 2005. It will have much less wear and tear on it in general, from both time and mileage.
However, I'd pick the one with the better compression scores....
Yes, I'm serious.
If they are equal, I'd go for the 2005. It will have much less wear and tear on it in general, from both time and mileage.
#705
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If compression is in the...
- 8s, the 2005, you probably won't use the warranty on the engine (unless something else comes along like a cooling system failure that destroys it)
- high 7s, it's a toss up
- Low 7s, 2004 and expect to use the warranty in the next ~20,000-40,000 miles
- 6s or lower, don't buy
Note: This is my personal opinion. You may find others that disagree, or provide different advice.
- 8s, the 2005, you probably won't use the warranty on the engine (unless something else comes along like a cooling system failure that destroys it)
- high 7s, it's a toss up
- Low 7s, 2004 and expect to use the warranty in the next ~20,000-40,000 miles
- 6s or lower, don't buy
Note: This is my personal opinion. You may find others that disagree, or provide different advice.
#707
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Removed this from post 2, largely becoming redundant with other more detailed points:
Added this to post 2:
Common repairs:
Mazda made the 8 incredibly easy to work on, and insanely expensive to get someone else to work on. Coils are 20 minutes for the untrained with a 10mm socket wrench and $140 in parts, $300 is the lowest I have seen a dealer charge, $500-$700 is common. Plugs are $80 in parts and 10 minutes for the untrained with a plug socket and a few ratchet extensions. Dealers are $300-$500. Plug wires are $60, and less than 5 minutes to change, no tools needed (though removing the intake makes it easier) A full brake job at a dealer, or just about any other shop, will run you $1200+, $500 or less doing it yourself. Even other stuff like suspension components (struts, springs, sway bars, end links) are really easy to remove and install compared to other cars. Engine components are too, like the water pump, thermostat, alternator, air pump. If you need something replaced, there is probably already a DIY on here, and tons of friendly advice to help you along the way. Most of us don't need much of an excuse to find a reason to wrench on an 8. We just love it. Beer is a common currency for help
Mazda made the 8 incredibly easy to work on, and insanely expensive to get someone else to work on. Coils are 20 minutes for the untrained with a 10mm socket wrench and $140 in parts, $300 is the lowest I have seen a dealer charge, $500-$700 is common. Plugs are $80 in parts and 10 minutes for the untrained with a plug socket and a few ratchet extensions. Dealers are $300-$500. Plug wires are $60, and less than 5 minutes to change, no tools needed (though removing the intake makes it easier) A full brake job at a dealer, or just about any other shop, will run you $1200+, $500 or less doing it yourself. Even other stuff like suspension components (struts, springs, sway bars, end links) are really easy to remove and install compared to other cars. Engine components are too, like the water pump, thermostat, alternator, air pump. If you need something replaced, there is probably already a DIY on here, and tons of friendly advice to help you along the way. Most of us don't need much of an excuse to find a reason to wrench on an 8. We just love it. Beer is a common currency for help
Added this to post 2:
Cooling Cooling Cooling!
In case it hasn't been clear enough yet, you CAN NOT let your RX-8 overheat. Overheating a piston engine doesn't automatically mean the engine is damaged. Usually because the needle starts moving before it gets to critical temps. And even then, the temps you can let it get to are usually greater, because of the more even heat distribution in a piston engine. None of this applies to rotaries. If the temp needle in your RX-8 starts to move, it's already at critical temps!. And this is just the water temp. The uneven heat distribution means that there are parts of your engine that are A LOT hotter than this. Even a SINGLE overheating event can damage your engine. Yes, 1 time overheating CAN destroy your engine. It doesn't mean that it will. The danger from overheating is that the temperature differences in the engine block start to warp the gaps between the irons and housings. This creates a sealing problem and allows coolant and oil into the engine. Often it damages the coolant seals and oil control rings as well, compounding the problem. Once this happens, there is no repair. Even the engine parts that are there are probably not re-usable. You can run the engine still, due to the rotary's remarkable ability to run even if it's technically damaged beyond repair, but the uneven wear patterns and coolant present will accelerate internal damage further and further.
You can reach this through having too low of a coolant level, a thermostat failure (often strikes without warning), coolant bottle cap failure, coolant bottle failure, coolant hose failure, or sediment clog in the cooling system (sediment is slow rust that gets stripped from stuff and left in the radiator, hose junctions, etc...)
It is in your best interest to get a water temp gauge. Either a physical one hooked up, or an ODB2 one. Many methods to go about this. You can't rely on the OEM water temp gauge here!
If you do see the needle start moving, or your added temperature gauge shows you headed toward danger, immediately pull over and let the engine idle. DO NOT shut off the engine! Shutting off the engine will allow the temperature to spike even further since there is no coolant running through the block if the engine is off. While it is idling, pop the hood, check for coolant spray from the overflow, check the coolant level if you can (often hard to see), look for coolant leaks. If you lost alot of coolant, carefully depressurize the coolant bottle and add water/coolant The introduction of the cold (ambient) coolant will be immediately helpful
In case it hasn't been clear enough yet, you CAN NOT let your RX-8 overheat. Overheating a piston engine doesn't automatically mean the engine is damaged. Usually because the needle starts moving before it gets to critical temps. And even then, the temps you can let it get to are usually greater, because of the more even heat distribution in a piston engine. None of this applies to rotaries. If the temp needle in your RX-8 starts to move, it's already at critical temps!. And this is just the water temp. The uneven heat distribution means that there are parts of your engine that are A LOT hotter than this. Even a SINGLE overheating event can damage your engine. Yes, 1 time overheating CAN destroy your engine. It doesn't mean that it will. The danger from overheating is that the temperature differences in the engine block start to warp the gaps between the irons and housings. This creates a sealing problem and allows coolant and oil into the engine. Often it damages the coolant seals and oil control rings as well, compounding the problem. Once this happens, there is no repair. Even the engine parts that are there are probably not re-usable. You can run the engine still, due to the rotary's remarkable ability to run even if it's technically damaged beyond repair, but the uneven wear patterns and coolant present will accelerate internal damage further and further.
You can reach this through having too low of a coolant level, a thermostat failure (often strikes without warning), coolant bottle cap failure, coolant bottle failure, coolant hose failure, or sediment clog in the cooling system (sediment is slow rust that gets stripped from stuff and left in the radiator, hose junctions, etc...)
It is in your best interest to get a water temp gauge. Either a physical one hooked up, or an ODB2 one. Many methods to go about this. You can't rely on the OEM water temp gauge here!
If you do see the needle start moving, or your added temperature gauge shows you headed toward danger, immediately pull over and let the engine idle. DO NOT shut off the engine! Shutting off the engine will allow the temperature to spike even further since there is no coolant running through the block if the engine is off. While it is idling, pop the hood, check for coolant spray from the overflow, check the coolant level if you can (often hard to see), look for coolant leaks. If you lost alot of coolant, carefully depressurize the coolant bottle and add water/coolant The introduction of the cold (ambient) coolant will be immediately helpful
#708
daughter's car,... Me too though
Why did my 07rx8 need an engine, as in just stalled permanently.
they did not know why they replaced it. couldnt diagnose.
daughter says man \y complaints out there. Really???
they did not know why they replaced it. couldnt diagnose.
daughter says man \y complaints out there. Really???
#709
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1. Your car needs an engine so it can move
2. They replaced random parts because they have no idea how to diagnose problems
3. Complaints about what?
#710
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In general though, it's hard to trust a dealer that "couldn't diagnose", and there certainly have been engines replaced when the engine wasn't the problem.
Without anything else to go on though, I'm going to guess that you aren't prepared for or ok with the range of issues that the RX-8 has or the level of care that it needs. If your 8 has a new engine, now might be the best time to get rid of it.
But as I said, go back to the first page. Read the first 9 posts. Don't skim them. Read them!
#711
Rx8 rebuild help
Im Was checking out an 04 rx8 100+k crashed only damage was front frame. I didn't see any thing wrong with the engine or suspension. I only have enuff for the car I want to do a swap into a shell but I can't find any answers on what make or model i could use, should I just keep it in the original body and try to restore it or get a different body?
#714
The opening section on '04 AT engine failures (Post #2) should also note that the '04-'05 ATs had only one oil cooler. Starting in 2006, automatics had two oil coolers, the same as manual transmission models.
#715
Hey guys. Been reading for a while now and thought I'd register to ask a couple questions that might help me out..
I'm looking for a fun car again after several years of suffering with boring stuff. Right now I'm taking a long, hard look at getting an RX8 for daily driving and the occasional autocross. Never done the rotary thing before but I think I'd enjoy it and I'm certainly not afraid of learning something new. Any time a tool touches my car, it's me holding it.
Now, onto my main question: How are these things to work on? Are they fairly DIY friendly?
Here's why I'm asking: Right now I have a 2002 Subaru Forester and a 2001 VW Jetta. The Subaru is a dream to work on. Very simple, very accessible, no complicated wiring, etc. The Jetta, on the other hand, is a constant battle for me. Insane German wiring, poor diagrams, lots of unnecessary bells and whistles, etc. Doing the same job on the Jetta takes 2-3x as long as it does on the forester. For example, replacing the turn signal lever is a 15 minute job on the Subie, and an hour or so on the Jetta because you have to remove the steering wheel and so on.
So, with that in mind, I'm asking about how an RX8 would fit in there. Never met a Japanese car I didn't like, but then again I've never owned a Mazda. Subaru and Nissan have sort of been my thing in the past.
I guess that's enough of a book to write for my first post. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks all!
I'm looking for a fun car again after several years of suffering with boring stuff. Right now I'm taking a long, hard look at getting an RX8 for daily driving and the occasional autocross. Never done the rotary thing before but I think I'd enjoy it and I'm certainly not afraid of learning something new. Any time a tool touches my car, it's me holding it.
Now, onto my main question: How are these things to work on? Are they fairly DIY friendly?
Here's why I'm asking: Right now I have a 2002 Subaru Forester and a 2001 VW Jetta. The Subaru is a dream to work on. Very simple, very accessible, no complicated wiring, etc. The Jetta, on the other hand, is a constant battle for me. Insane German wiring, poor diagrams, lots of unnecessary bells and whistles, etc. Doing the same job on the Jetta takes 2-3x as long as it does on the forester. For example, replacing the turn signal lever is a 15 minute job on the Subie, and an hour or so on the Jetta because you have to remove the steering wheel and so on.
So, with that in mind, I'm asking about how an RX8 would fit in there. Never met a Japanese car I didn't like, but then again I've never owned a Mazda. Subaru and Nissan have sort of been my thing in the past.
I guess that's enough of a book to write for my first post. Any input would be appreciated. Thanks all!
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^ As far as maintenance goes (oil changes, plugs/coils/wires replacement, etc), and aftermarket bolt-on's, it's dead simple to work on. Ton's of DIY's on this site.
Just make sure you know what you're getting into, and know what to look for before buying one. Unlike Piston engines, the Rotary is a totally different animal and has special needs.
Just make sure you know what you're getting into, and know what to look for before buying one. Unlike Piston engines, the Rotary is a totally different animal and has special needs.
#718
Yeah, the handling is a big draw for me, along with the back seats. I just want to make sure it’s designed in such a way that it is easy to work on and isn’t overcomplicated, etc. I hate when manufacturers (VW) do that. I have an 05 and an 06 that I am going to look at later in the week. Little wary about the 05 but if it’s had its motor replaced then I’d be fine with it. It’s also a few grand cheaper..
#719
This vehicle is spectacular. If you are smart and want this puppy to last do the following:
1)SIMPLY DO NOT USE 5TH AND 6TH GEAR FOR CITY DRIVING OR SHORT HIGHWAY COMMUTER ROMPS.
2)accept the fact that you will spend 5 hundy on new ignition parts every 40K mi
& keep the wheels aligned every year
3)do not use it to do errands where the car will be stopped for than 3-4 times within a hour period... y'know -- cleaners, take out, wal-fat etc....
rev it rev it -- yes drive it hard..
1)SIMPLY DO NOT USE 5TH AND 6TH GEAR FOR CITY DRIVING OR SHORT HIGHWAY COMMUTER ROMPS.
2)accept the fact that you will spend 5 hundy on new ignition parts every 40K mi
& keep the wheels aligned every year
3)do not use it to do errands where the car will be stopped for than 3-4 times within a hour period... y'know -- cleaners, take out, wal-fat etc....
rev it rev it -- yes drive it hard..
#720
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
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$500 for ignition parts is crazy. thats dealer prices. ~45min and about $220
#722
FULLY SEMI AUTOMATIC
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thats a good deal riwwp. i get plugs and coils for about $180 with my discount at napa. i ment to type $220. ill edit it now
#724
i drove it 2700 miles in one through 6 national parks this summer. my last park was north rim grand canyon and a rock hit the cat. That dam cat is such an evil that you have to live with. after 100k , i am gonna figure out how to go straight pipe.