New Owner SAFE Question and Answer thread
#51
It really depends on the dealer. I have heard of some asking for all the records, and trying to use 1 missed record as a reason to deny. Others aren't asking at all. Most seem to only look for the past 10-15k of records.
If this is a hanging point for you, then stop by the dealer (or dealers) that you might have to use, and ask them "if I get this 8, will you require records from the prior owner in order to honor the warranty?"
If this is a hanging point for you, then stop by the dealer (or dealers) that you might have to use, and ask them "if I get this 8, will you require records from the prior owner in order to honor the warranty?"
Thanks RIWWP! I'll start doing this immediately. Only Mazda dealers correct? I read in one of your posts that dealers get reimbursed by MazdaUSA for warranty. Just making sure if other dealers can honor warranties as well. Thanks again!!
#52
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Mazda is the one taking the loss, the dealers are privately owned. When you have a warranty claim, the dealer files paperwork with Mazda to determine if Mazda is going to authorize it. If they do, then instead of billing you, they bill Mazda for the parts/labor. Kind of like how a doctor's visit is billed to your insurance instead of you, if the coverage is authorized.
If the dealer doesn't want to do the paperwork, or they are lazy, or they are incompetent, then you could easily run into problems before it even gets submitted to Mazda.
If at all possible, avoid dealers that are attached to other car brands, as their reps and techs tend to be cross-trained, which means they don't know the 8 and it's quirks nearly as well, if at all.
If the dealer doesn't want to do the paperwork, or they are lazy, or they are incompetent, then you could easily run into problems before it even gets submitted to Mazda.
If at all possible, avoid dealers that are attached to other car brands, as their reps and techs tend to be cross-trained, which means they don't know the 8 and it's quirks nearly as well, if at all.
#53
I have a 2009 R3, love the car but unfortunately it's difficult being able to find many mods at this point. So far, just did an AP exhaust with the mid pipe and an air intake. I'd like to do the cobb but can't since they didn't make one for the 09, so my question is this ... I recall you saying that the Greddy E manage is crap for the rx8, but would you say the same for the Greddy e manage ULTIMATE ? It appears that it's available for the 09, or atleast it says it is, but will it do any good ? What's it lacking compared to the Cobb ? thanks
#54
2009+ models are hard to find mods for since not many people have them and sales were crap.
Cobb AP is the best you can get, I dont know specific details between the two but I trust the BHR guys...
Cobb AP is the best you can get, I dont know specific details between the two but I trust the BHR guys...
#55
I've often wondered about that. Against other sports cars in its $30k price bracket (here in the states), I thought the RX8 compares rather poorly. It's not to surprising sales slumped.
#56
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I have a 2009 R3, love the car but unfortunately it's difficult being able to find many mods at this point. So far, just did an AP exhaust with the mid pipe and an air intake. I'd like to do the cobb but can't since they didn't make one for the 09, so my question is this ... I recall you saying that the Greddy E manage is crap for the rx8, but would you say the same for the Greddy e manage ULTIMATE ? It appears that it's available for the 09, or atleast it says it is, but will it do any good ? What's it lacking compared to the Cobb ? thanks
Other solutions for piggyback are attempting to "fool" the ECU into thinking that something is happening that isn't. So it's taking the input signals from the sensors changing them to something else that it wants, and then sending that signal to the ECU. This means that all the inherent weak points of the factory ECU are really still there, and very very difficult to correct. Not impossible, but it's normally more work than it's worth. And it will pretty much delete any warranty you might have, since it will be obvious that the ECU was tampered with.
If the AP or ProTuner weren't options (at all, to any degree), then I would go with an aftermarket ECU to at least get full control over what is happening, rather than trying to play with smoke and mirrors to get a result I want.
#57
Generally yes. The problem is that there have only been 2 (possibly 3) methods that actually replace the maps within the factory ECU: COBB AP, Hymee ProTuner, and possibly 1 other. The advantage this has is that it doesn't "mess with" the signals or anything, it basically makes the factory ECU work as intended...just with a better tune. It is also nearly invisible to dealers, so won't affect warranty.
Other solutions for piggyback are attempting to "fool" the ECU into thinking that something is happening that isn't. So it's taking the input signals from the sensors changing them to something else that it wants, and then sending that signal to the ECU. This means that all the inherent weak points of the factory ECU are really still there, and very very difficult to correct. Not impossible, but it's normally more work than it's worth. And it will pretty much delete any warranty you might have, since it will be obvious that the ECU was tampered with.
If the AP or ProTuner weren't options (at all, to any degree), then I would go with an aftermarket ECU to at least get full control over what is happening, rather than trying to play with smoke and mirrors to get a result I want.
Other solutions for piggyback are attempting to "fool" the ECU into thinking that something is happening that isn't. So it's taking the input signals from the sensors changing them to something else that it wants, and then sending that signal to the ECU. This means that all the inherent weak points of the factory ECU are really still there, and very very difficult to correct. Not impossible, but it's normally more work than it's worth. And it will pretty much delete any warranty you might have, since it will be obvious that the ECU was tampered with.
If the AP or ProTuner weren't options (at all, to any degree), then I would go with an aftermarket ECU to at least get full control over what is happening, rather than trying to play with smoke and mirrors to get a result I want.
I did get the full Agency Power handling package with the sway bars, etc , though so I'm excited to see what that does to the cars handling.
#58
Hey guys i've been reading up alot on rx8s and stuff and i actually baught one today, i know this might sound stupid but where would i top off the oil and how do i prevent overheating by checking the coolant fluid often? does this need to be toped off also? Like you can tell im sorta new its my first post and stuff so any help or advice would be appreciated.
Thanks
Thanks
#59
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There large plastic cover with the word Renesis on it under the hood is removable. Just pull up on the left and right sides near the front of it, then pull forward away from the firewall. Under the center of that is the oil filler cap. That's where you add the oil.
Checking the oil is a bit harder, assuming you have a series1 (2004 - 2008), the oil dip stick has a yellow handle and is to the driver side slightly, but about 12 inches lower and 12 inches closer to the firewall. Standing at the driver's front wheel, you have to reach between several hoses to get to it.
Overheating is really only a problem with hot climates, and coolant itself isn't the problem. The problem is the OEM water pump doesn't flow coolant through the engine very well above 7,000rpm, and the OEM thermostat doesn't open to start cooling off the fluid until 210 or so (I believe). Replacing both of these with the upgrades mentioned on the first page is 90% of the battle to keeping the car cool. If you are in a hot climate, it should be mandatory. If you are in a cold climate, then the colder / cooler ambient temperatures help keep the engine temps down quite a bit more, and it is less critical, although still a good idea.
The coolant bottle is right in front of the engine bay with a radiator cap on it. Yellow bottle color.
Checking the oil is a bit harder, assuming you have a series1 (2004 - 2008), the oil dip stick has a yellow handle and is to the driver side slightly, but about 12 inches lower and 12 inches closer to the firewall. Standing at the driver's front wheel, you have to reach between several hoses to get to it.
Overheating is really only a problem with hot climates, and coolant itself isn't the problem. The problem is the OEM water pump doesn't flow coolant through the engine very well above 7,000rpm, and the OEM thermostat doesn't open to start cooling off the fluid until 210 or so (I believe). Replacing both of these with the upgrades mentioned on the first page is 90% of the battle to keeping the car cool. If you are in a hot climate, it should be mandatory. If you are in a cold climate, then the colder / cooler ambient temperatures help keep the engine temps down quite a bit more, and it is less critical, although still a good idea.
The coolant bottle is right in front of the engine bay with a radiator cap on it. Yellow bottle color.
#60
There large plastic cover with the word Renesis on it under the hood is removable. Just pull up on the left and right sides near the front of it, then pull forward away from the firewall. Under the center of that is the oil filler cap. That's where you add the oil.
Checking the oil is a bit harder, assuming you have a series1 (2004 - 2008), the oil dip stick has a yellow handle and is to the driver side slightly, but about 12 inches lower and 12 inches closer to the firewall. Standing at the driver's front wheel, you have to reach between several hoses to get to it.
Overheating is really only a problem with hot climates, and coolant itself isn't the problem. The problem is the OEM water pump doesn't flow coolant through the engine very well above 7,000rpm, and the OEM thermostat doesn't open to start cooling off the fluid until 210 or so (I believe). Replacing both of these with the upgrades mentioned on the first page is 90% of the battle to keeping the car cool. If you are in a hot climate, it should be mandatory. If you are in a cold climate, then the colder / cooler ambient temperatures help keep the engine temps down quite a bit more, and it is less critical, although still a good idea.
The coolant bottle is right in front of the engine bay with a radiator cap on it. Yellow bottle color.
Checking the oil is a bit harder, assuming you have a series1 (2004 - 2008), the oil dip stick has a yellow handle and is to the driver side slightly, but about 12 inches lower and 12 inches closer to the firewall. Standing at the driver's front wheel, you have to reach between several hoses to get to it.
Overheating is really only a problem with hot climates, and coolant itself isn't the problem. The problem is the OEM water pump doesn't flow coolant through the engine very well above 7,000rpm, and the OEM thermostat doesn't open to start cooling off the fluid until 210 or so (I believe). Replacing both of these with the upgrades mentioned on the first page is 90% of the battle to keeping the car cool. If you are in a hot climate, it should be mandatory. If you are in a cold climate, then the colder / cooler ambient temperatures help keep the engine temps down quite a bit more, and it is less critical, although still a good idea.
The coolant bottle is right in front of the engine bay with a radiator cap on it. Yellow bottle color.
#61
A little help please?
So I'm looking to buy a pre-owned Mazda RX-8, but I'd love some help in familiarizing myself in the car so I know what to look for and ask before I make the buy. I just met the owner of one of the few I'm currently looking at and had a brief discussion about the car. This one I'm looking at is the 2005 model (I'll paste a link at the bottom) in what I believe to be in relatively decent condition given the age and $12,000 price tag.
The exterior is decent with only 1 minor dent and a handful of minuscule scratches in the paint. My only concern on the outside is that the spoiler seems to have a plastic coating/layer that is bubbling up in a few places. As far as I'm concerned with that, I plan on either repainting it or just having it removed entirely. Which ever option is cheapest.
On the interior the car is perfectly fine with one major exception. The dashboard directly in front of the passenger is severely cracking in the outline of the airbag because of sun exposure (I live in South Florida. Sun damage is nothing new). I can live with it for awhile, but it needs to be fixed at some point. My major concern is what it will cost to replace that damage.
After driving it it was also apparent that either the brake pads or the rotors were getting old and need to be replaced sometime soon. I'd love to get a cost estimate for that replacement.
After looking for cars for a good month I'm ready to get this over with. I've settled that the RX-8 is certainly the model I'd love to have. Now the only question is whether I buy this one and do the repairs, or if I continue looking in my area for a different car (still an RX-8 of course).
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
The exterior is decent with only 1 minor dent and a handful of minuscule scratches in the paint. My only concern on the outside is that the spoiler seems to have a plastic coating/layer that is bubbling up in a few places. As far as I'm concerned with that, I plan on either repainting it or just having it removed entirely. Which ever option is cheapest.
On the interior the car is perfectly fine with one major exception. The dashboard directly in front of the passenger is severely cracking in the outline of the airbag because of sun exposure (I live in South Florida. Sun damage is nothing new). I can live with it for awhile, but it needs to be fixed at some point. My major concern is what it will cost to replace that damage.
After driving it it was also apparent that either the brake pads or the rotors were getting old and need to be replaced sometime soon. I'd love to get a cost estimate for that replacement.
After looking for cars for a good month I'm ready to get this over with. I've settled that the RX-8 is certainly the model I'd love to have. Now the only question is whether I buy this one and do the repairs, or if I continue looking in my area for a different car (still an RX-8 of course).
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
#62
So I'm looking to buy a pre-owned Mazda RX-8, but I'd love some help in familiarizing myself in the car so I know what to look for and ask before I make the buy. I just met the owner of one of the few I'm currently looking at and had a brief discussion about the car. This one I'm looking at is the 2005 model (I'll paste a link at the bottom) in what I believe to be in relatively decent condition given the age and $12,000 price tag.
The exterior is decent with only 1 minor dent and a handful of minuscule scratches in the paint. My only concern on the outside is that the spoiler seems to have a plastic coating/layer that is bubbling up in a few places. As far as I'm concerned with that, I plan on either repainting it or just having it removed entirely. Which ever option is cheapest.
On the interior the car is perfectly fine with one major exception. The dashboard directly in front of the passenger is severely cracking in the outline of the airbag because of sun exposure (I live in South Florida. Sun damage is nothing new). I can live with it for awhile, but it needs to be fixed at some point. My major concern is what it will cost to replace that damage.
After driving it it was also apparent that either the brake pads or the rotors were getting old and need to be replaced sometime soon. I'd love to get a cost estimate for that replacement.
After looking for cars for a good month I'm ready to get this over with. I've settled that the RX-8 is certainly the model I'd love to have. Now the only question is whether I buy this one and do the repairs, or if I continue looking in my area for a different car (still an RX-8 of course).
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
The exterior is decent with only 1 minor dent and a handful of minuscule scratches in the paint. My only concern on the outside is that the spoiler seems to have a plastic coating/layer that is bubbling up in a few places. As far as I'm concerned with that, I plan on either repainting it or just having it removed entirely. Which ever option is cheapest.
On the interior the car is perfectly fine with one major exception. The dashboard directly in front of the passenger is severely cracking in the outline of the airbag because of sun exposure (I live in South Florida. Sun damage is nothing new). I can live with it for awhile, but it needs to be fixed at some point. My major concern is what it will cost to replace that damage.
After driving it it was also apparent that either the brake pads or the rotors were getting old and need to be replaced sometime soon. I'd love to get a cost estimate for that replacement.
After looking for cars for a good month I'm ready to get this over with. I've settled that the RX-8 is certainly the model I'd love to have. Now the only question is whether I buy this one and do the repairs, or if I continue looking in my area for a different car (still an RX-8 of course).
Any help is appreciated. Thanks!
This is a bad place and wrong thread to get any attention...however.
1.) You didn't post the link
2.) Where in South Florida?
3.) What color is the car? I have an extra spoiler in perfect condition for $180.00 if it happens to be the right color. Anywhere else this will cost you a ton.
4.) How many miles on it?
5.) Does he have maintenance records?
6.) Is the carfax clean?
7.) Spoiler removal will require holes to be filled and then painted if you go that route.
8.) Not sure about the dash and cost to replace. This is why I use a sunshade!
9.) Well....if pads or rotors, it won't break the bank, but this car isn't the cheapest to do stuff like that and this care requires a little more car than most, so know that and deal with it or walk away.
10.) Auto or manual?
11.) Depending on miles, when was the last time the coils and plugs were changed?
Last edited by Mazurfer; 08-22-2010 at 11:53 AM.
#63
^^^
Its a bit my fault, I directed this person from this thread they started
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/before-i-buy-203314/
To this thread with the intention that it would answer the first part of their post.
Suck about the dashboard, I can't help with that.
@ Coggeshall, sorry dude if I miss directed you I didn't mean re-post your question here. I could see how it may have looked that way.
Its a bit my fault, I directed this person from this thread they started
https://www.rx8club.com/rx-8-discussion-3/before-i-buy-203314/
To this thread with the intention that it would answer the first part of their post.
Suck about the dashboard, I can't help with that.
@ Coggeshall, sorry dude if I miss directed you I didn't mean re-post your question here. I could see how it may have looked that way.
#64
^^^
Its a bit my fault, I directed this person from this thread they started
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=203314
To this thread with the intention that it would answer the first part of their post.
Suck about the dashboard, I can't help with that.
@ Coggeshall, sorry dude if I miss directed you I didn't mean re-post your question here. I could see how it may have looked that way.
Its a bit my fault, I directed this person from this thread they started
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?t=203314
To this thread with the intention that it would answer the first part of their post.
Suck about the dashboard, I can't help with that.
@ Coggeshall, sorry dude if I miss directed you I didn't mean re-post your question here. I could see how it may have looked that way.
Dave
#65
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I checked the thermostat and water pump product you mentioned earlier and it seems they only make the thermostat for the 2009 at this point, go figure , so no water pump yet .... so is it worth it to get the thermostat without the water pump or should i just wait until they come out with it ?
#66
The other day i saw a post where someone wrote that if u dont have the service manual you could download it somewhere, i cant seem to find it does anyone know where i could download it? for the 2004 edition. Also a couple things, i am getting low gas mileage like 12mpg, im thinking its my plugs and coils, anyone have any suggestions? my rpm's also play between 1 and 0.5 while in idle like it goes down and up down and up, is this normal or something i should get checked out?
#67
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I found the link bookmarked on my other PC. I'll post it here tomorrow when i am back to it.
Mileage that low is usually something wrong, and headed towards critically wrong. The idle bouncing around unsteadily does certainly suggest that it is ignition related.
If you don't know how long it has been since coils/plugs/wires, or you know it's been more than 25,000 miles, then order all of them and replace them. Please don't pay the $400-800 more to have the dealer do it with inflated prices and too high labor times.
Easy to do them all yourself.
If that doesn't solve the issue, then it's on to your cat...which likely is failing anyway if you have been that low in MPG for a while. If not that, then your O2 sensor. If not that, then compression.
Mileage that low is usually something wrong, and headed towards critically wrong. The idle bouncing around unsteadily does certainly suggest that it is ignition related.
If you don't know how long it has been since coils/plugs/wires, or you know it's been more than 25,000 miles, then order all of them and replace them. Please don't pay the $400-800 more to have the dealer do it with inflated prices and too high labor times.
Easy to do them all yourself.
If that doesn't solve the issue, then it's on to your cat...which likely is failing anyway if you have been that low in MPG for a while. If not that, then your O2 sensor. If not that, then compression.
#68
SpeeD_TeaSe
Check out the thread in my sig. RIWWP is right about coils/plugs/wires. There are a few other things as well, MAF is a big deal, and by far the easiest to do. If you have an 04, with original plugs and coils, not getting around changing them though. I skipped wires though, with no issues.
Check out the thread in my sig. RIWWP is right about coils/plugs/wires. There are a few other things as well, MAF is a big deal, and by far the easiest to do. If you have an 04, with original plugs and coils, not getting around changing them though. I skipped wires though, with no issues.
#69
The other day i saw a post where someone wrote that if u dont have the service manual you could download it somewhere, i cant seem to find it does anyone know where i could download it? for the 2004 edition. Also a couple things, i am getting low gas mileage like 12mpg, im thinking its my plugs and coils, anyone have any suggestions? my rpm's also play between 1 and 0.5 while in idle like it goes down and up down and up, is this normal or something i should get checked out?
In 04Green's thread here https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-forum-197/congratulations-you-got-8-a-202548/
as in his sig.
Post #12
#70
I have about 8-10 different sites like that bookmarked and stored as well.
Those that would allow downloading of any type have also been downloaded into a directories/sub-directories.
#71
Hello everyone this is my first post I'm interested in purchasing a 2004 Mazda RX-8 with 90,000 miles and it had a new engine replaced from 12 k miles ago because it flooded do you think this would be a good purchase for somewhere under $10,000....once again with a little more details....2004 Mazda RX-8, silver in color, black & gray interior, sunroof, automatic with auto stick, 90k miles, excellent condition! New engine approx 12k miles ago, new tires less than a year ago, dealer maintained, has all paperwork, still under Mazda powertrain warranty. Thank you for any help and suggestions
Last edited by Mints912; 08-24-2010 at 06:24 PM.
#72
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That isn't much information to go on, but assuming that the rest of the car is in decent condition, then yes, $10,000 is a good price. You will be out of the OEM warranty in 10,000 miles, but having a relatively new engine on is a definite bonus that should give you some more peace of mind.
I assume you read the first several posts in this thread?
I assume you read the first several posts in this thread?
#73
Thanks for the speedy response I still in contact with the owner Also the cars coolant sensor is out according to the owner he says you have to purchase the whole kit or something for $200 so he said he just unplugged it and checked it regularly they have all the paper work and everything has been dealer maintained powertrain was just replaced also
EDIT: I also have read the first few post and I see that this vehicle needs a lot of TLC also You were absolutely right about what you said about first time owners my first car was a honda 92 sold it and bought a 06 mazda 6 my senior yr wrecked it within 3 months said story ha ha I consider this my first car my first love put so much work into it and now im with a honda 04 fully loaded and i just got to get back to mazda
EDIT: I also have read the first few post and I see that this vehicle needs a lot of TLC also You were absolutely right about what you said about first time owners my first car was a honda 92 sold it and bought a 06 mazda 6 my senior yr wrecked it within 3 months said story ha ha I consider this my first car my first love put so much work into it and now im with a honda 04 fully loaded and i just got to get back to mazda
Last edited by Mints912; 08-24-2010 at 06:22 PM.
#74
2005 6sp m/t blue
Hey i'm new to the forum, but i have had my car for about 6 months now... I've been reading around a lot and i can't really find a thread that is .... accepting to new members asking questions... I do have a question if anyone could give me some input as to what would be a decent turbo to put on. I did some research and i've found the SFR T04E turbo kit, but was wondering if anyone had any information on that specific turbo. Any information would be helpful. Thanks
<http://www.turbo-kits.com/rx-8_turbo_kits.html>
<http://www.turbo-kits.com/rx-8_turbo_kits.html>
#75
Thanks for the reply guys i just baught my rx8 so im trying to know as much info as possible to make it last long without spending to much money on it, it has 116km on it and the previously owner said that a mechanic told him if you dont have trouble starting it then dont change the plugs, so he never changed the plugs he had it at 80km so im guessing he didn't change the coils also. I know he changed the O2 sensor but not sure about the CAT, looking at the DIY links you posted im thinking of cleaning the MAF doing the plugs,coils and wires see if that makes a difference, what is a good website to order these parts of off, should i just go with e-bay? Should replacing these parts improve my mileage a little or am i better to double check the CAT?