Groves

But, is it going to be constant hassle, or are these worst case problems?

By my understanding it has to be up to tempreture to turn the car off?
Is this a must for every time, even taking my car off the drive to allow my mam to get her car out, and there for I will have to sit in car until up to temp to turn it off?

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

Not to do so, risks flooding. It has only happened once to me in the RX8 and once in my two RX7's. And, it was easy to recover from. Most people have flooding issues when their ignition system becomes marginal. That is why it is suggested that you change spark plugs and ignition coils so often.

Groves

Also im going to view the car at 12, I am unable to get a compresion test. Is this a must on a 06 plate with 36k?

alnielsen

iTrader: (4)

It certainly is recommended. Without this test, check how the car starts. Both when it is cold and after it's been warmed to normal operating temperature for a while. Failing either of these could very well indicate a compression problem. Problems with idling (won't idle or rough idle) could also.

Somethings, you will be asking, are specific to your location (UK). You should add that to your user profile so it shows when you post.

fio07

iTrader: (1)

Correct. Since you're still living at home you might as well ask for a bhr ignition too..

rednose

i have to laugh at the light flaming going on in a "SAFE" thread, especially since i'm a "noob" to both the forum, and the rx8.........but wow, even i learned to read the forum before posting. anyway.......here's my "safe" post for this thread. i had a civic, that got totalled, but i'm used to driving corvettes, so higher than civic performance isn't new, this rx8 is definitely slower than a vette, but holy hell this thing is fun to drive! the dude worried about moving it from the driveway and having to wait for it to warm.....i live VERY close to my work, so the first day i drove it to work, i made sure to leave an extra 15mins early, just incase i got to work and it wasn't warm yet (it was). don't ever put this kind of money in something unless you understand it, or are willing to understand it, and are willing to put more money in it down the line.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

All of those posts were actually in a different thread, I moved them all to a new thread, you are the first one to post here since that change.

Glad to see you are reading!

Farley

Well i guess this is where i have to post my mundane questions within the rx8 community?lol


sooo here it goes.

i am trying to find a currently active member of the forum that has swapped 13b turbo rotors into there rx8. preferably someone running this with cobb. i kind of need to pick there brain. obviously i plan on boosting it , going to shoot for about 380-400 wheel just a nice summer driver/fun car.

i am gonna do some more hunting for the rest of my infor i need. but thats honestly gonna be the biggest help.,

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Booooooooooooooooooooooooooooo

Dumb was better

Farley

lol trying to hint at something?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

LOL no actually I didn't even read you question.

I was troll'n RIWWP in some good fun looking for LuLz

But I can say that a couple people have done this .. can't remember who.
Maybe OldDragger?

About the whp however .... not going to happen, well not without a lot and I mean a lot of $$$

I don't think anyone has made that much power yet to the wheels depending on what you believe.

edit ... with a Renny

Farley

seriously you totaly deflated my hopes of buying the rx8.

i was under the impression that the compression was the main issue... pump and high compresison with boost obviously no bueno. i was reading last night.. i forget who it was but had a unopened ren and made 414 wheel?(19 psi i think i forget what turbo)


but if that really is the case and my numbers are completely unobtainable i guess ill deal with it and try and find another fd....... i just really love the way the rx8 looks and def a better daily car..

wcs

iTrader: (2)

^^^ Sorry man
I'm not saying it's not doable but you would be in a very very rare club and proto-typing as you go
There is no kit or solution written that will guarantee you this result, and whoa on the reliability.
That's a complete unknown.

Compression has been discussed and tossed around, experimented a bit
There has been a lot of success stories with people running 10 psi on these rotors and easily making 300 whp

But it seems that to hit 350 whp is a critical step in how the turbo is implemented including engine internals

It appears that due to the new position of the exhaust port in the renny which is causing most of the problems.

1) It's very restrictive and cannot be ported due to the coolant path thru the housing

2) Unlike in the 13B the corner seals are now experiencing a lot more heat from the exhaust as they are now basically directly in it's path. This heat (multiplied when boosted) seems to be killing the corner seal springs. It's down hill from there


So basically yeah ... 400 whp possible but not practicable and not cheap or easy

But you don't have to listen to me
Do it anyway and prove me wrong, I would honestly love to see it, seriously.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Farley,

If that kind of power is your goal, it is apparently possible on the 8 (depending on who you believe), although at what cost and for how long? I have heard that there is a guy in Europe that crested 500whp, but doesn't bother mentioning it because no one would believe him. I have zero details on that and zero proof, so it's just a rumor, nothing more. Even if he did obtain it though, I'm betting his engine didn't last long. 400whp has been proven a few times, but it took SERIOUS work, and still didn't last long. I believe the 313whp guy swapped to an FD engine(?). For the cost and trouble (including going through multiple engines trying to get there), it would be cheaper to buy a clean RX-7 (FD) and get that to that amount of power. I don't mean that buying an RX-8 + mods to 400whp vs RX-7 + mods to 400whp. I mean that just the cost to get an RX-8 to 400whp is more than the cost to buy an RX-7 plus get it to 400whp.

See the modding thread in my sig for some of the explanations and the basics.

The problem is all in our side ports. Restricted, can't really expand them, and the more power you make the faster our side seal springs fail. Doesn't really matter how you make that power, because power is still heat, and the heat is the problem.

Yeah, I was discussing merging everything with the dumb questions thread, as it serves the same purpose, but the read-through of the combined thread would become disorienting.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Wait wot?
Corner seal springs, side seals springs?
Or both?
I want to be on the same page as you ... you saying the side seal springs fail first?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Under high EGTs, yes that's what I believe fails first. The spring under the side seal deforms, pushing the seal out of place more and more until it clips the exhaust port and boom. (Source: EricMeyer)

There is a Star Mazda engine notes manual around somewhere that also includes what to look for in the engine data to show that it's on it's way. Typical street driven N/A Renny's don't have the same problem, we have too many other failure points that occur first. Once you go boosted though, your engine is seeing the same kind of EGTs as the 100% race duty N/A Rennys, or higher. Not for quite as long or saturated as high, but easily higher peaks.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

MMmmmmmmmm now I don't know what to think, likely both, one or the other will get you in the end.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Hmm. Pre-93 engine is mentioned there, and implied 93+ solves the problem. I'd expect we didn't have a return to that in the Renny?

wcs

iTrader: (2)

^^^ Yeah I don't know what is actually there for the renny
I'm just an arm chair mechanic when it comes to an actual rebuild of the engine.
I would like to try it but I need to find the room in my garage.
Maybe this summer I'll kick the wife's vehicle out and use that half.

poacherinthezoo

Now that's a bold move sir! I like it! lol. It would be a cold day in hell before I could pull that off...





2 questions here really:

#1) Is there anything in particular about our engines that makes the 3,000 mile oil change interval necessary? A few years back I had a 2001 corolla and the owners manual said to change the oil every 7,500 miles even when using regular dino oil. Previously, I ran my miata about 6-10,000 miles between oil changes using full synthetic (partly due to a small leak in the front main seal, so I was constantly adding new oil as it dripped out the bottom slowly). Does it have something to do with our engines generating more heat than piston engines, thereby accelerating the chemical reactions that break down oil (since all chemical reactions will increase in rate if temperature is increased)? Or it is more to do with making sure the apex seals are consistently lubricated with fresh oil?

#B) This is my more important questions really. The center rear view mirror on my 2009 R3 won't stay in the location I set it at. I'll adjust it so I can see perfectly out the back and then after a few miles of driving, the small bumps are enough to make it start tilting downward. Is there a way to tighten the mirror so that it will stay where I want it? Or is it just the price I have to pay for the stiffer bilstein shocks and Ohio's less than stellar roads?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

#1) Yes for 2 reasons:
- Oil tests on non-synthetic oils in the Renesis have shown that non-synthetic oils tend to lose their viscosity by around 2,500 miles. Synthetics hold up much longer. The heat breakdown is largely the biggest cause here.
- The longer you go between oil changes, the dirtier the oil is that you are injecting into the engine. Engine teardown pics of engines that have clean 2-stroke injected via the SOHN OMP adapter appear to have less carbon buildup in the areas that the 2-stroke is injected. In theory, cleaner oil makes this contribution.

I haven't heard of the 2nd question being a problem before.

Sherrick

Hi everyone, I'm a new member, and have always wanted an RX8. I have done a fair amount of reading on the forum already, and was hoping for some advice on an RX8 i found on craigslist for sale. I am located in southern Wisconsin, and the RX8 is located in chicago. Here is a link to the ad (04 Mazda RX-8 w/130k Miles! 6-Speed Manual! Fully Loaded! Drives Good!). I asked the seller if they new if the Rx8 has had a compression test, if it has the original starter in it, and about the engine. All I got from them was that they don't have any idea on any of that. So my next step should probably be to call Mazda and give them the VIN to see whether or not the motor has been replaced?

I also asked them why they are suggesting a 'tune up' soon, and they said it was because it starts and runs fine, but it starts hard when the car is warm. Does that indicate that the compression is bad? Is this car even worth considering? Thanks in advance for the advice!

CreATivEx

yeah i have a quick question i'm having a Check engine light on..

before that im having a Hard start "EVERY MORNING" specially if its cold

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you can get that info from Mazda, HOWEVER, if the warm start is already bad enough that the dealer can tell it has problems, then it's motor is on it's last legs. Do not buy that one unless you have the dealer put a new engine in it. They should be informed that it's got a failing engine so they don't just foist it off on someone else.

What is the Check Engine Light code? We can't really help you without knowing that.

A hard start when cold usually means you have a failing battery, or a failing alternator that isn't charging it correctly from the last time you ran it, or there is a wiring problem between the two that is causing charging problems.

It could also be that you have lost a coolant seal inside the engine and your housing is slowly filling with coolant as the car sits overnight, making it hard to start in the morning.

CreATivEx

how / where can i get it?