RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

There are no "manifold" codes, so not sure where you got that.

Hard hot starts when cold starts are fine is typical of failing compression. Take it to a dealer and get a compression test. Even though you are out of warranty, it will still answer your question of if your engine is failing. The people replacing their engines just after buying the car are the people that didn't get the compression test before purchase.

SeacretIslander

Seeing how im out of warranty would it still be best to have the dealer do the rebuild? Because like u said in one of your other posts failing compression/low compression would lead to the engine needing to be swapped or rebuilt.
Is there somewhere else i could possibly go?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes, compression loss means engine rebuild or replace. Do not automatically assume that you need a new engine until you pay the $90-$180 to get a compression test at the dealer though. (Yes, you can ask for just a compression test).

Dealers do not do rebuilds. If you go through the dealer, you will be paying through the nose for a reman engine. Dealer prices are anywhere between $4,000 and $16,000 for the engine + labor, depending on their markup and what they may try to pull on you.

Given your location, BHR is one rebuild option (Phoenix), and I think there are a couple shops in LA that may be worth researching into the quality of their builds. Otherwise, there are other rebuilders across the country. Used engines are also viable, though come with their own risks.

SeacretIslander

Alright, so even though im not under warranty the best option would be to run the test at the dealer? The dealership is about an hour north of San Diego so im just wondering before i make that trip.
And if i dont need a new engine or i dont need it to be rebuilt any thoughts on what it could be?

maxchao

iTrader: (2)

How much does rebuild usually costs? Just curious...

Also I think I read it somewhere Mazda no longer manufacture any rotary engines anymore. Is that just new ones or reman as well? Is that going to increase the cost of engine in the future? (I guess rx-7 have faced the same situation?)

drifted88

How many posts do you need to start a thread in the classifieds? I think on RX-7 club it was 5. I ask because I really need a headlight assembly for inspection but don't have the cash to buy from a dealership.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

See the announcement at the top of this subforum. 30 days AND 10 posts.

You can post replies though, part out threads are the best bet.

drifted88

Thank you. I'll read through that again. I skimmed through once.

bladeiai

iTrader: (1)

I'm sure this is covered somewhere and I have actually tried searching, but I'm not really sure what to search for.

I have an issue with rough idling. I was (and still am) ready to replace the motor mounts because I thought that was probably the problem. It is rough after car warms up and is a little worse with A/C on.
I had some problems with my power steering and one of the things I noticed is that the car would idle perfectly after the ecu was reset for the first drive cycle and then go back to the rough idle after that. It's not a horrible idle but it isn't smooth like when I first got it.

Car is 2004 with 115k original 6 port motor 6MT and the coils plugs and wires were changed out by me at around 100-105k.

I was planning to start checking the vacuum system tonight when I get off work before I order the motor mounts, but any suggestions anyone can offer to shed some light on the situation would be greatly appreciated.

** Edit- I've also cleaned the inside and outside of the air box, accordion tube, MAF, throttle body, and UIM, and installed a catch can after seeing the gunk that was in the accordion tube, etc.

I've noticed that the vacuum, AFR and timing seem to bounce around a bit while at idle too, I'm not really sure how normal that is as I have had the idle problem longer than I have had dashcommand to monitor it. AFR stays around 15:1 if that matters...

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

AFR should be pretty steady, no more than 0.1 flickering up or down. If it isn't that could explain your rough idle. Check your short term fuel trims at idle. If it isn't a 0 (I bet it isn't) you probably have a vacuum leak that you need to find.

Shaking could be anything from engine failure to failing ignition to motor mounts collapsed, or anything in between. We will need more information to diagnose.

The bouncing sounds like one or more of your shocks is blown.

bladeiai

iTrader: (1)

Yeah it bounces around a lot more than that. I will check my short term fuel trim. I was looking around after work at the vacuum system and noticed there was oil all over the drivers side of the engine bay... my oil line seems to have sprung a leak... yay.

Galoucura

I'm not a mechanic and I don't have an advanced knowledge of cars so please bear with me. With that being said, I own a 2004 Rx8, bought with 86k and now has 96k. I had an Rx7 before which I loved and thought this would be a great car to get as a daily. I've had it for roughly 9 months and I financed it from a family friend dealer which didn't end up being the best decision.

Ill skip to the chase. I noticed within the first couple months that something didn't feel right. With further inspection I discovered it was the tranny and clutch pedal which seem to be common problems. I took it to the dealer and he said he would take care of me.. he changed the clutchmaster cylinder and sent me on my way (lol). The mechanic he sent it to get fixed is an old good friend of mine and he made it known I wouldn't he getting too much help from the dealer. He told me the real problems and that was the last time the dealer helped. Now I'm at the point where ill soon be needing to replace the clutch and transmission. I was wondering if anyone has been through this and can help give me an idea of prices and if there are any reinforced parts I should get that are more durable. Since I'm paying for it out of pocket, I want it done right. Thanks if you've read this far, any help is greatly appreciated.

I said "Ill need to replace it soon" because its been progressively getting worst. Its to the point that it randomly grinds into 2nd. Sometimes also with 3rd when 2nd gear gets stretched a bit and sometimes when I first put it into reverse same thing occurs. I'm terrified of damaging other things because of these problems but money is kind of tight and getting the money together has been a problem. If you need anymore details that will help with answering the questions please ask. Also any suggestions and tips will be appreciated. Wish I knew of these forums 9 months ago -__-

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

What are the reasons that you feel that you need to replace the transmission? Typically a complete failure of 4th gear, or failure of one or more syncros is about the only reason. Anything else is typically a failure of the pedal assembly, clutch disc itself, release or pilot bearing, or the clutch hydraulics.

In any case, lots of clutch options out there, but the only one I'm comfortable with recommending is the OEM clutch. It's $350-$375 + shipping ($375 wish shipping from BHR, a forum vendor), that works perfectly, it's consistent, no design flaws, will hold up to 80k+ of acceptable driving, and is plenty of torque capacity for naturally aspirated, and even some forced induction setups. The Exedy stage1 has been a problem point for many people, myself included, with several theories on why, but you have to pray you don't have early failure with that clutch. Why pay the same amount as an OEM clutch and only gain a risk of an expensive headache? I should know, I went through 2 Stage1 clutches before I woke up and went back to OEM.
Anything cheaper I wouldn't trust under any condition, any more expensive and you are probably paying for some performance aspect you can't actually use.

As far as transmission, generally, finding a used transmission is your cheapest option, often from a part-out. As long as the transmission itself wasn't abused, there is no reason it won't last 150k+. Nearly all transmission failures i have seen on the forums have been because of forced induction, poor driving, or good driving just hard racing. Some few exceptions, but generally rare.

If you can find a Series2 transmission, it is generally superior in strength, and only a couple very minor modifications are needed to bolt it right up.

Galoucura

I'm positive the clutch pedal has some responsibility for the grinds but when I replaced the transmission oil there were metal shavings in it... 4th is fine, no gear has completely failed and I drive it daily. I've figured out how to drive it with the clutch pedal and transmission in its current condition. So what I'm getting from that is that OEM is best and I should replace the clutch pedal before going all out with the transmission, correct? You recommend getting a used transmission over a new one only because of price? I wouldn't have too much of a problem getting a new one but if the warranty on the used one if enough to make you feel safe about it then I'm all for it.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If your clutch pedal isn't solidly perfect, then yes, replace that before you do anything else. Even if it's not causing the problem, it could fail suddenly and wreck the new stuff you just put in. Cascading failure from a failing clutch pedal have included: nothing, burst clutch, shattered clutch, broken clutch master cylinder, broken brake booster, complete loss of brakes, and transmission failure. Not trying to scare you, most clutch pedals don't cause anything but an inability to disengage the clutch, but it really isn't worth the risk of something more major, which is still often enough to be concerned about.

Metal shavings in the transmission oil, yeah, I agree with you. Something is eating itself to bits in there. Yes, my comment was price only. If the price doesn't bother you, then by all means, a new transmission is certainly going to be a better option. If you can get a new series 2, even better.

Galoucura

Thanks for your help, got all the answers to my questions. Ill definitely consider the clutch pedal first. Ill also be looking into the series 2. Thanks again, Ill surely be back if I have anymore questions

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

If you are going to replace the pedal itself, the best option out there is the welded pedal assembly from BHR. That will fix it for life. A new OEM one from a dealer is still prone to eventually failing again. BHR's isn't much more than a new one from a dealer anyway, largely just paying them for the labor of welding it up solid in addition to the pedal.

Galoucura

I see, that's exactly the information I'm looking for. The extra money is definitely worth not having to go through this again. I have a friend who (hopefully) won't charge me too much for labor. Definitely going to start looking into these things once I leave work.

T-Rex87

Hello,

I had a Question about the Electric from the RX-8.
At the moment i try to install some LED's to my Car,
i already found Parking Light wire but now i search for a wire which had (+) or (-)
when the Door's of the Car are open.

Could someone send me a Picture or the Wire Color, need the wire under the Weel.

Greetings from Germany
Rex87

greywankel13$ex

hey uh my name's Mohammed....you can call me ''Mo'' for short

I live in Richmond Hill. I am wondering where you guys usually meet up at the begining of September? cause I would like to be in that general area....hopefully no further than La Panoma in Vaughan (I live near Bayview and 16th)

I was gonna buy an 8 but I had to leave the country to see my family overseas...and now I'm coming back in 3 weeks and my dad will be back by the end of the month from his business trip inshallah. (<--- in case you wondered what that is , I'm a Muslim= inshallah means ''God Willing'')

and when we test drove the 8 before I left, he was blown away by it cause my brother is a rotary hater who used to own a G35 before he became a family's man, so my dad used to take his word over mine of course. Actually my dad fell in love with it. so I plan on buying an RX8 when I get back and theres plenty on sale on autotrader.ca (about 100 of them as I see) so I plan on getting a 2008+ model. grey or dark grey with the orange/brown two tone leather interior...6 spd manual of course..

your thoughts?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

My thoughts?

My thoughts are:
A) use the regional subforums and locate appropriate threads for meets in your area. This thread is not regionally specific, so regional questions can't really be answered here

B) I'm not sure if you are asking anything about the RX-8 or not, so don't really know what to answer.

MS2019R3

The coolant light has also been coming on in my 2009 R3 and its good to know it must be a faulty sensor since my fluids are topped off, thanks for the advice

yankeepicker

How do I reset the TPMS to a new psig?

I read several TPMS threads as well as the manual. What I am unclear on is this:
if I want to retain my sensors to 34psi, can I do it by turning the key to "on", then "acc" then wait 15+ min, then go for a drive over 20kph and it will reset? That's what the manual says, and I've had no luck.

background: tpms would periodically come on so I checked tire pressures (I only got the car a couple months ago). tires were all at about 24-26psig at 83F ambient temp. Manual says 32psig, but as it was a hot day, I thought I'd overinflate a wee but to compensate for when the temperature drops. I followed the directions, but now get a blinking tpms light every time I drive mute tab 15 min or so.

can the tpms be reprogrammed to whatever set point I wish, our did I misunderstand the manual and really it means that it gets set once, and if it's acting funny, doing that trick will reset it to that original value? I would think it's the former, but I've had no luck twice now.

when the instructions say turn the key to "on", they don't mean to start the car, do they? I only took it to the key position that lights up the dash with thinks like the crl, oil, etc

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

yankeepicker

I can't edit from this app... I meant CEL not "crl"

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I am not aware of any method of changing the PSI that the TPMS system is looking for. I think the reset is to reset any fault in the system.

24-26 PSI in the tires will trigger the TPMS light. It won't light up for anything from around 29psi to 35ps.

A flashing TPMS light means that the ECU sees something wrong with the TPMS system, not the tire pressure.

Yes, "on" is different from "start"