New Owner SAFE Question and Answer thread
#1101
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Try to use the enter key to break up the post a bit more next time, harder to read and sort out significance when it's one big block
1) The coolant light is just from a failing coolant level sensor in the bottle. The prior owner must have disconnected it to keep the light off. A new bottle is $130 from Mazmart, and part of good system health anyway. Be careful when replacing it, as the little hose that goes to the top of the radiator (it's out of sight under the bar that runs in front of the coolant bottle) can easily break off the nipple that it's attached to on the radiator, which means you have to replace the radiator. Easiest just to order the bottle with the extra hose, and cut that hose off since you have the replacement in hand.
2) transmission grinding could be wrong or old transmission fluid, replace with MT-90, Mazda OEM fluid, or Eunos. Replacing it is easy. Remove the drain plug, let it drain, replace the drain plug. Then inside the car remove the shifter till you see a hole that the shifter sits in. Pour in 2 quarts with a funnel. Replace shifter. Series1 is a piece of cake
3) it's possible that dealing with the battery and the vacuum problem just reset the ECU's learning that it was trying to account for failing ignition. If you don't know how old your ignition is, order up the stuff from Advance Auto. You can replace all the coils, plugs, and wires for about $190 in parts in about an hour with simple tools. Should make a huge difference.
4) The burning smell is probably be your cat overheating from the misfires and melting stuff under the car. I recommend having it replaced at a dealer under federal emissions warranty (8yr 80k), otherwise consider looking for a used cat on here if you want a cat, or getting a midpipe if you can do without. Continuing to drive on a failing cat can lead to extensive damage to other parts of the car, including car fires.
5) If you STILL have problems, get a compression test on the engine to see if it's failing (you are still under the 8yr 100k warranty on the engine)
1) The coolant light is just from a failing coolant level sensor in the bottle. The prior owner must have disconnected it to keep the light off. A new bottle is $130 from Mazmart, and part of good system health anyway. Be careful when replacing it, as the little hose that goes to the top of the radiator (it's out of sight under the bar that runs in front of the coolant bottle) can easily break off the nipple that it's attached to on the radiator, which means you have to replace the radiator. Easiest just to order the bottle with the extra hose, and cut that hose off since you have the replacement in hand.
2) transmission grinding could be wrong or old transmission fluid, replace with MT-90, Mazda OEM fluid, or Eunos. Replacing it is easy. Remove the drain plug, let it drain, replace the drain plug. Then inside the car remove the shifter till you see a hole that the shifter sits in. Pour in 2 quarts with a funnel. Replace shifter. Series1 is a piece of cake
3) it's possible that dealing with the battery and the vacuum problem just reset the ECU's learning that it was trying to account for failing ignition. If you don't know how old your ignition is, order up the stuff from Advance Auto. You can replace all the coils, plugs, and wires for about $190 in parts in about an hour with simple tools. Should make a huge difference.
4) The burning smell is probably be your cat overheating from the misfires and melting stuff under the car. I recommend having it replaced at a dealer under federal emissions warranty (8yr 80k), otherwise consider looking for a used cat on here if you want a cat, or getting a midpipe if you can do without. Continuing to drive on a failing cat can lead to extensive damage to other parts of the car, including car fires.
5) If you STILL have problems, get a compression test on the engine to see if it's failing (you are still under the 8yr 100k warranty on the engine)
#1102
Thanks for the detailed response.
Do you believe that the cat would have been damaged enough from this one incident to require replacement?
Also the dealer recommended a new transmission, as the transmission fluid was replaced around 56K (currently at 73K), does that seem like the way to go to deal with the high RPM grinding?
Do you believe that the cat would have been damaged enough from this one incident to require replacement?
Also the dealer recommended a new transmission, as the transmission fluid was replaced around 56K (currently at 73K), does that seem like the way to go to deal with the high RPM grinding?
#1103
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Transmission fluid is cheap, a lot cheaper than a transmission. If the wrong fluid was used before, then that might be the cause of the problems. Royal Purple for example, will do this. Easy to change it for a test. Will also give you a chance to check the magnetic drain plug for debris.
Yes, a cat can get killed that fast. Misfiring basically means that there is unburnt air and fuel, which gets dumped to the hot header, where it has plenty of heat to combustion. This basically results in the blowtorching of your cat, which it is not something your cat is designed to take.
Yes, a cat can get killed that fast. Misfiring basically means that there is unburnt air and fuel, which gets dumped to the hot header, where it has plenty of heat to combustion. This basically results in the blowtorching of your cat, which it is not something your cat is designed to take.
#1104
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Greetings! Newb here! :D
I have a few questions about my new 2010 R3 RX-8
First: Does anyone know the wheel weight of the factory 19" wheels on the R3?
Second: What is the smallest size rim I can run on safely?
Third: I have seen all over the site how often everyone advocates a compression test, the R3 I just purchased only has 14,000 km's (8,000 miles) Should I still be doing a compression test on it just to see the numbers? It feels amazing to drive and has great pick up, so no complaints in the power area yet!
I have a few questions about my new 2010 R3 RX-8
First: Does anyone know the wheel weight of the factory 19" wheels on the R3?
Second: What is the smallest size rim I can run on safely?
Third: I have seen all over the site how often everyone advocates a compression test, the R3 I just purchased only has 14,000 km's (8,000 miles) Should I still be doing a compression test on it just to see the numbers? It feels amazing to drive and has great pick up, so no complaints in the power area yet!
Last edited by Gravey; 09-30-2013 at 01:40 PM. Reason: To include pic
#1105
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https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-wh...weight-229996/
17" is the smallest, and is perfectly safe. It's the preferred size for track, autocross, and snow tires, for different reasons (though tire cost is a big part of it). Sidewall size goes up of course, but that isn't always a bad thing.
I wouldn't worry about a compression test that early
Gratz!
17" is the smallest, and is perfectly safe. It's the preferred size for track, autocross, and snow tires, for different reasons (though tire cost is a big part of it). Sidewall size goes up of course, but that isn't always a bad thing.
I wouldn't worry about a compression test that early
Gratz!
#1106
bad oil control rings?
My 8 is smoking bad on start up. Oil from tailpipe, smoke lasts a few minutes and it is HUGE with a bluish tint. Loss of power and a misfire sometimes occur. Is this oil control rings or what?? And if so how do I fix it?
05 winning blue M/T rx8 80k miles
05 winning blue M/T rx8 80k miles
#1107
I am new to this forum (not exactly sure how it works yet) but I have an 05 m/t/ 8 with 80k miles. It smokes a bluish tint smoke really badly on startup and there is a clear sign of oil in my tailpipe. Literally on start up if I rub my finger against the tailpipe I have oil on my hands. Is it a bad oil control ring or what?? What else could it be and how could I possibly solve this issue even if I have to fix the ocr's myself. Thanks
#1108
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Another NEWB Question. I have looked around but cannot find this info.
Does anyone offer a kit like this for the 2009+:
Complete Gauge Panel Kit - Metric for 04-08 RX-8 - Racing Beat
Does anyone offer a kit like this for the 2009+:
Complete Gauge Panel Kit - Metric for 04-08 RX-8 - Racing Beat
#1109
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Another NEWB Question. I have looked around but cannot find this info.
Does anyone offer a kit like this for the 2009+:
Complete Gauge Panel Kit - Metric for 04-08 RX-8 - Racing Beat
Does anyone offer a kit like this for the 2009+:
Complete Gauge Panel Kit - Metric for 04-08 RX-8 - Racing Beat
Is this what you are looking for?.
#1110
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Another NEWB Question. I have looked around but cannot find this info.
Does anyone offer a kit like this for the 2009+:
Complete Gauge Panel Kit - Metric for 04-08 RX-8 - Racing Beat
Does anyone offer a kit like this for the 2009+:
Complete Gauge Panel Kit - Metric for 04-08 RX-8 - Racing Beat
#1113
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#1115
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I appreciate the help, but that IS where I started, in fact that's where I posted the original pic from. I asked here because I could not find a 2009+ solution at racing beat and was wondering if there was one available somewhere else. I have no use for an ashtray in any of my vehicles. And I figured since heat is our #1 enemy, having some extra monitoring couldn't hurt.
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I appreciate the help, but that IS where I started, in fact that's where I posted the original pic from. I asked here because I could not find a 2009+ solution at racing beat and was wondering if there was one available somewhere else. I have no use for an ashtray in any of my vehicles. And I figured since heat is our #1 enemy, having some extra monitoring couldn't hurt.
There are several places on line. I have other sites but it is probably best you find it your self. Not sure if trying to help is a safe thing to do here. Just fish on line you will find it.
#1119
Replaced clutch and spark plugs in my 04.
My mechanic said he would get oem spark plugs. and an aftermarket clutch made by the same company that makes the oem clutch for mazda. (Confused?)
Well I got my car back and now it seems it has more trouble than before hot starting. And sometimes it'll start bucking while I'm driving, even though I'm keeping steady pressure on the gas pedal.
Could this be related to the plugs and or clutch?
Thanks guys 😬
My mechanic said he would get oem spark plugs. and an aftermarket clutch made by the same company that makes the oem clutch for mazda. (Confused?)
Well I got my car back and now it seems it has more trouble than before hot starting. And sometimes it'll start bucking while I'm driving, even though I'm keeping steady pressure on the gas pedal.
Could this be related to the plugs and or clutch?
Thanks guys 😬
#1120
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Replaced clutch and spark plugs in my 04.
My mechanic said he would get oem spark plugs. and an aftermarket clutch made by the same company that makes the oem clutch for mazda. (Confused?)
Well I got my car back and now it seems it has more trouble than before hot starting. And sometimes it'll start bucking while I'm driving, even though I'm keeping steady pressure on the gas pedal.
Could this be related to the plugs and or clutch?
Thanks guys 😬
My mechanic said he would get oem spark plugs. and an aftermarket clutch made by the same company that makes the oem clutch for mazda. (Confused?)
Well I got my car back and now it seems it has more trouble than before hot starting. And sometimes it'll start bucking while I'm driving, even though I'm keeping steady pressure on the gas pedal.
Could this be related to the plugs and or clutch?
Thanks guys 😬
#1121
Just a quickie for my first post!
I have an RX8 now, I bought it the other day and the oil level was just above the low mark on the dipstick.
I know a friend at a garage who can top me up for a reduced price but I need to actually be able to drive the car there since it's going to be from a barrel.
I just need to know if it's safe to drive the 8 about 20 or so miles when it's getting scarily close to the low mark. Think it'd be alright to drive it that far?
It's not on LOW exactly, just slightly above.
I have an RX8 now, I bought it the other day and the oil level was just above the low mark on the dipstick.
I know a friend at a garage who can top me up for a reduced price but I need to actually be able to drive the car there since it's going to be from a barrel.
I just need to know if it's safe to drive the 8 about 20 or so miles when it's getting scarily close to the low mark. Think it'd be alright to drive it that far?
It's not on LOW exactly, just slightly above.
#1122
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Yes, you can drive the 20 miles there fine, just keep the RPM down.
But curious, why can't you top it off yourself? I'm sure there is a gas station or parts store that sells oil far closer, and where oil can be bought funnels can be bought too. It's really not that difficult and since the engine burns oil by design, this is going to be something you are going to have to pay attention to regularly.
But curious, why can't you top it off yourself? I'm sure there is a gas station or parts store that sells oil far closer, and where oil can be bought funnels can be bought too. It's really not that difficult and since the engine burns oil by design, this is going to be something you are going to have to pay attention to regularly.
#1124
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#1125
Yes, you can drive the 20 miles there fine, just keep the RPM down.
But curious, why can't you top it off yourself? I'm sure there is a gas station or parts store that sells oil far closer, and where oil can be bought funnels can be bought too. It's really not that difficult and since the engine burns oil by design, this is going to be something you are going to have to pay attention to regularly.
But curious, why can't you top it off yourself? I'm sure there is a gas station or parts store that sells oil far closer, and where oil can be bought funnels can be bought too. It's really not that difficult and since the engine burns oil by design, this is going to be something you are going to have to pay attention to regularly.
I could top it off myself but the nearest gas station is a service station and the prices are insane. I can get the oil from the garage I'm driving to for £6 a litre since we're close businesses. I do lots for him and he does lots for me.
I guess you can say I'm getting trade price. That's all.
I would of had to bare with the higher price if your answer was no but since it'll be alright, I'm gonna go for it.
Thanks for the super quick response! Loving the car so far! (apart from the headlight leveller malfunctioning, I'm blinding every poor soul I pass so I can't drive it at night till I get that fixed)