Come back here with the codes. Don't trust that your mechanic will always be able to pinpoint the problem by code alone. Especially if it's a misfire code.

 

Got the code. P2259 secondary air injection system B circuit low. Guess it's not spark plugs xD

 

https://www.rx8club.com/new-member-f...-p2259-249333/

Thread just today.

 

Ok guys I really need help. Got my rx8 a week ago. It's 2005 has 77K miles. I try to take it to a shop to get a compression test and check coil and wires but every repair shop tells me that everything is OK as long as my check engine light is not on. Judging by what I've read here, if check engine light goes on, the engine is pretty much shot, so to make sure that engine is in good shape I need to maintain it properly. But how can I do it if everywhere I go, they refuse to check anything because the light is not on. If anyone knows any shop that actually knows what they are talking about when they talk about rx8 please tell me. I am located in Brooklyn, NY and would appreciate any help. I just want to make sure that everything is the way it is supposed to be, not wait until the check engine light goes on.

 

Incorrect. The check engine light is 100% all about emissions. For example, there is a code for a loose gas cap that can make the light come on. Doesn't have anything to do with the engine.

The "CEL" acronym, means "Check Engine Light", but it actually should mean "Check Emissions Light"


If you want a compression test, you have to get it done at a dealer anyway. Rotaries can't get valid compression numbers from a piston engine compression tester, and no corner shop is going to have the Mazda rotary compression tester that is needed. Dealers will charge somewhere between $90 and $250, usually $120-$180, and you don't have to have a symptom. Just tell them "I'm here to get a compression test so I know the scores".


Don't trust them or the CEL for ignition parts though. You can test them yourself with a timing light and/or a $6 coil tester from the parts store.


Edit: Oh, you are in NYC. We have a member that lives there that has a rotary compression tester. Send NYCGPS a PM, he has made numerous offers to assist with compression tests (for a small fee cheaper than the dealer)

 

Oh great, thank you very much!

 

Hi , I'm about to buy 2005 used RX8 (automatic), done only 21, 000 miles . What do think I should mostly check , or give some extra care ? As the weather in my country is very hot in summer , reaches 47 °C (116.6*°F)

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

The early RX8 automatics in the southwestern U.S. were prone to overheating in hot weather. Part of this was due to they only had one oil cooler. Many had their engines replaced within the first 2 years.
The first thing to have done to test any rotary engine car is to get a compression check before purchase. This takes a special tester that checks each face of the rotor in the housing. This is, for the most part, only available at a Mazda service facility. If that isn't available, you need to test how the car starts when it is warmed up. Drive it for 10 km, turn it off, wait 30 seconds or so and attempt to restart. If it fails, the car has a compression problem. Also, look for white or black smoke coming out of the exhaust when it is warmed up. White smoke means it is leaking and burning coolant. Black smoke means it is burning oil. When the engine is cold, if it sputters for a minute or two after it sets overnight, there is a small coolant leak that could get larger later.

 

Thanks alnielsen ,
well, unfortunately we don't have that special test for the rotary engine, I'll try to do what you suggested,
FYI after the normal checkup done by Mazda dealership, they have found a leakages on the coolant already, and some leakages come somewhere behind the gear box, and in a way of checking the leakage issue , they will have to open the whole gear box .. which they didn't do yet.

I didn't decide yet if I gonna take this car , it looks smoking hot .. but the overheat issue is freaking me up.. I hope if there is any solution for that.. or any other model of this car which can survive on this weather.

I hope if u can give me advice about overheat issue, as well your advice about the car itself.. im I gonna miss something if I didn't own this car ? is it fabulous as most of the member says on this forum.

Thanks again for your valuable reply

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

Hi,
I'm not an expert, but in reading up on 8s, overheating is a major factor in engine failures.
If it was me, I would pass on one that already has coolant issues.
Unless you REALLY want it, and can afford to make major repairs to it.
Are they hard to come by in your country?
Maybe you can wait to get one that has no issues.
I also prefer manual transmissions.
Good luck!

 

[quote=BigCajun]Quote:

Thank you for your add,
its too hard to fund one here,
there is Only 2 RX8 in my country

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

Engine coolant does not go back to the gear box area. The only possible answer. that I can see, is leakage from the heater core that is finding a route to drain further back on the car.
Also, the car is almost 10 years old. The hoses deteriorate, from the inside, over time. Check to see if the lower radiator hose is collapsing. This would limit coolant flow.

Is it possible to look to the UAE or Qatar for a different car?

 

There are big frost plugs in the rear iron behind the flywheel

 

thanks alnielsen,

I'm planning to go to UAE this weekend to check if there is RX8 for sale , actually I was looking for 2008 or above , but it's very rare car , I'm afraid that I wouldn't find it even in Dubai

Posted From RX8Club.com Android App

 

Hello fellow RX8 owners. I just purchased an 04 RX8 Grand Touring MT. I was hesitant about buying an 04 since I heard about their troubles and whatnot, but what made the deal was that it only has 7500 miles and I got a great price. Yes thats 7500, not 75000. The previous owner has kept it in immaculate condition. It looks and feels brand new, and was kept in a garage for most of its life so far.

Now obviously I plan on taking great car of this vehicle. It is going from being a weekend driver to a daily driver for myself. So far I've had it a week and absolutely love it. I've been browsing the forums almost daily trying to learn as much as I can about the car. Everyone here is so helpful. I make sure to red line at least once a day, and usually keep it at or above 4000rpm.

I do have a few questions.

1.) My 04 has not had the original starter replaced, and after owning it a week I can tell that it could become a problem once it gets colder. It takes about 2-3 seconds of cranking before starting in the morning. I absolutely do not want to risk flooding it this winter, so I bought the new upgraded starter yesterday, and am planning on installing it very soon. I have read the DIY and it seems simple enough, but any tips would be much appreciated! I've never replaced a starter before.

2.) I called Mazda and all the recalls have been taken care of. I asked about the MSP16, and they said that it was not a recall. I called my local Mazda dealership and was told that as long as the car was running ok that I did not need it. After some more searching on these forums, it seems like they are actually responsible for performing the update on every car even if it runs fine. What exactly do I need to print out and bring into the dealer to show them that they need to perform the upgrade? Also, since I'm outside of the 8 year warranty does anyone know if I would have to pay for this service?

3.) Final question is regarding the warranty. Like I said I'm outside of the 8 year warranty. Does anyone know if Mazda can extend the warranty anymore since its very low miles? I'm not looking for 100K or anything, but it would be nice to have maybe a 40 or 50K warranty. I talked to someone at the dealership about this and they said they would find out for me, but I was wondering if anyone on here knew as well.

Anything else I should watch out for on a low mileage 04? I want to nip any problems in the bud as soon as I can.

 

1) Starter replacement is REALLY easy. It's 2 bolts and 2 electrical connectors, and it's all exposed and easy to get to once the left front is on a jack stand. Disconnect the battery first, since the power cable is a live wire, even with the car off.

2) MSP16 is a campaign, not a recall. From the dealer instructions on the campaign:
This matches the emissions warranty period, so you aren't being lied to here. The cost should be minimal though.

3) No, outside the warranty is outside the warranty. Mazda has lost enough money on the engine replacements that you would be very hard pressed to get them to accept the additional liability. However, you can purchase a 3rd party warranty if you wish. The cost of the warranty will probably be 50%-90% of the cost of an engine replacement though, so you will have to decide if it's worth it. Sticking the money in a savings account for the next 60-80k is probably going to net you a better financial result even paying for an engine out of pocket eventually

4) Replace ALL fluids. Engine oil, transmission oil, diff oil, brake fluid, coolant. Well past the shelf life on everything and I'd bet it was never addressed. Anything rubber is suspect as well, including the tires, brake lines, vacuum hoses, engine mounts, diff mounts, suspension bushings, OMP oil lines, etc... Chances are your rubber parts are becoming harder and starting to become stiffer and brittle. I wouldn't trust the brake lines or the tires at all, as those are things that can total the car if they fail suddenly. The rest of the rubber stuff is inconvenient and causes problems, but not inherently dangerous.

 

Is there anything besides the weak starter on the 2004/2005s thats better on the 2006 through 2008 engine wise? (Ive looked through the stickys but can't really find a definitive answer)

 

The weak starter really isn't an issue any more. It's been 8 years since the weak starter had the TSB released about it, and even the normal starter can start to fail after 8 years.

Largely, no. Any 2004 will be basically the same as a 2008 of the same chassis and engine mileage (Assuming both have had an engine replacement at this point). There are driver feature differences between the cars, but that's about it.

I'd take a 8.0 compression engine 2004 over a 7.2 compression engine 2008, if that helps say it another way.

 

Gives me alot more to choose from, Thanks!

 

I just had a compression test done on a 2005 RX-8 I'm interested in. The engine was rebuilt earlier this year using 3mm apex seals.

Here are the test results:
[No.1] 636 - 621 - 623 (Diff. Port: 15)
[No.2] 601 - 631 - 564 (Diff. Port: 67)
Speed of rev. 249 rpm

The test was borderline and, per the dealer's guidelines, required the service technician to call into Mazda North America for their judgement. They ruled the test as failed. This concerned both the seller and myself, though the mechanic who rebuilt the engine claimed this was normal for the new seals and the engine would simply take some time to wear in.

What I'm trying to find out is if the test is normal for a rebuilt engine using those 3mm seals or if this vehicle should be passed on? Any advice would be very appreciated.

 

3mm apex seals are unnecessary and add an additional failure point. Even on turbocharged applications, the 3mm seals don't actually improve anything, and the stock OEM Renesis seals are generally better sealing.

However, what is the mileage? It is possible that it might still need to be broken in further if it is REALLY new. I'm not sure why the dealer would have bothered contacting MNAO though, if it was rebuilt with 3mm seals, it wasn't an official rebuild, and wouldn't be covered under any Mazda warranty.

The pass/fail chart:

 

The mileage on the engine is between 2500 and 3000 miles at the moment. The dealer contacted MNAO due to their guidelines for borderline test results.

As far as the pass/fail chart I've already consulted it multiple times, and all I see is inadequate compression results. I just wanted to ask here to gather opinions from more experienced individuals regarding the 3mm seals and whether or not they'd have any effect on interpreting the results.

Thanks

 

I have a 2005 which had the small block replaced and only has 3000 miles on the new engine. The current upgrades made by the previous owner are a AEM cold air intake and a MSD ignition. Will adding smaller sport pulleys add power to the renews is engine? With all the complications I read with the rotary, I'm just cautious about what modifications I make.

 

Pulleys look good.... that's about it

 

We'll I may do the pulley upgrade for the looks' but what's the simplest way to increase power and performance without adding a turbo?