New Owner SAFE Question and Answer thread
09-09-2010 | 03:47 PM
#101
What RIWWP said. If you are at 75k, you will need plugs and coils. I have an 04.
For MAF cleaner, if the auto parts store does not have any, go to something like a radio shack or Frys. Get electric contact cleaner. It will do the same. There is a DIY posted in the $100 thread in my sig.
If you want to start cheap, do the MAF first.
For MAF cleaner, if the auto parts store does not have any, go to something like a radio shack or Frys. Get electric contact cleaner. It will do the same. There is a DIY posted in the $100 thread in my sig.
If you want to start cheap, do the MAF first.
09-09-2010 | 03:53 PM
#102
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http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web...T|GRP2030C____
MAF cleaner... Not sure if any of them can ship to Canada, or if any of them have chains up there. Advance Auto, Pep Boys, and Autozone all carry them as regular items.
MAF cleaner... Not sure if any of them can ship to Canada, or if any of them have chains up there. Advance Auto, Pep Boys, and Autozone all carry them as regular items.
09-11-2010 | 07:27 PM
#104
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Alright thanks again, I will order the parts and try and change them myself, the gentleman in parts counter at mazda gave me Air intake cleaner instead of MAF cleaner which in my head are the same, so I will also clean the MAF and hopefully this will fix my problem
09-12-2010 | 11:47 PM
#105
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i bought a 2005 rx-8 a few months ago. it ran fine for about the first month then it started taking a few extra seconds to start. Now the car will drive fine for about 5 or 10 minutes after startup, after which if i take my foot off the accelerator the rpm's drop all the way down to 0 and it just dies every time unless i keep the gas on it. i took it to a dealer when it first started having problems and they told me that it completely failed a compression test and that i needed a new engine. i want another opinion because it still drove fine for about a month after that, doesn't it make sense that a car with no compression shouldn't be able to drive? anyways ive done a bit of research and thought about replacing the coils and i've looked into the idle control valve as well. basically im looking for any advice i can get to get my car running strong again. is there anything i can do or should i start saving money to get a new engine?
09-13-2010 | 07:20 AM
#107
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If you have less than 100,000 miles on the odometer and are in the United States, your engine replacement should be covered under warranty. (Not quite "free", since there are some items that need to be replaced that aren't covered, like hoses, gaskets, seals, and such).
If you are past the 100,000 mile mark then failing compression is failing compression, and there isn't any way around it except engine rebuild/replacement.
Rotaries aren't like piston engines. When they "fail", they are still driveable for quite a long time. In fact there is a video on YouTube of 2 guys with an RX-7 that had a "failed" engine, so just for kicks, they pegged the RPM to max (8,000rpm on those), in neutral sitting in the driveway, and took bets on how quickly it would stop running. One bet 10 seconds, the other 20 seconds I think. It last just shy of 10 minutes, and didn't stop running until all of the coolant had spewed all over the ground and the exhaust caught the underside of the car on fire.
A "failed" rotary is still driveable usually.
But there isn't an alternative option to failed compression. One reason why a compression test prior to purchase is REALLY needed.
Did the dealer give you the compression numbers?
If you are past the 100,000 mile mark then failing compression is failing compression, and there isn't any way around it except engine rebuild/replacement.
Rotaries aren't like piston engines. When they "fail", they are still driveable for quite a long time. In fact there is a video on YouTube of 2 guys with an RX-7 that had a "failed" engine, so just for kicks, they pegged the RPM to max (8,000rpm on those), in neutral sitting in the driveway, and took bets on how quickly it would stop running. One bet 10 seconds, the other 20 seconds I think. It last just shy of 10 minutes, and didn't stop running until all of the coolant had spewed all over the ground and the exhaust caught the underside of the car on fire.
A "failed" rotary is still driveable usually.
But there isn't an alternative option to failed compression. One reason why a compression test prior to purchase is REALLY needed.
Did the dealer give you the compression numbers?
09-15-2010 | 11:50 AM
#108
Mariposa
Joined: Jul 2010
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From: Miami, FL
Warranty Concerns:
Warranty is a legal liability warranty like any other. (I went through a warranty fight with Toyota over my previously mentioned engine) That being said, you have to understand what a warranty claim actually is, and what it isn't.
When someone (a manufacturer, dealer, finance company, etc...) issues a warranty, they are accepting liability for that period of time/distance, accepting that any issues within the warranty coverage areas are either A) not supposed to happen or B) happen infrequently enough that they will be able to cover the cost of the repairs from the warranty charges from others that don't. Legally, it is only A), but practically, it is both.
When something breaks on your car, and it should be covered under warranty, your request for warranty service is legally a request for the warranty issuer (usually the manufacturer) to accept liability for damage/repairs as agreed.
If the warranty issuer accepts liabilty, which is usual, then they reimburse the shop for the costs of repairs. This is true even of dealers. Dealers charge the cost of repairs to Mazda USA, and get reimbursed. They make a lot of money on engine replacements. This is a critical point to keep in mind. The dealers can choose to not even file for warranty coverage (usually due to laziness), or they intentionally or accidentally misrepresent your car and modifications to Mazda USA during the discussion when Mazda is deciding on if they will accept the liability or not.
Moving closer to an answer to your question, sorry, there is some ground work I like to explain out, because I end up there anyway later on with more questions
If a warranty issuer decides they don't want to accept liability, then there is a fight ahead, at some level. Dealers are notorious for making this decision without even asking their parent company. Warranty requests are something of a mark against dealers I think. However, another critical point to recognize is that when a vehicle that is still within warranty period is denied warranty coverage, the warranty issuer has the burden of proof legally. They have to prove that a non-OEM part, a non-approved action, or a lack of required action caused the failure. If your only mod is a short shifter and your visor breaks, they can not possibly prove the link legally, because there isn't any. (Dealers have been known to try crazy stuff like that). If your transmission syncros fail though, well, there is more gray area. Legally, they have to prove the short shifter caused it, but there is enough gray that they might get it by.
Maintenance records is the big one. For all of history of warranties being issued, dealers have asked for maintenance records as proof of service before coverage. However, it isn't actually proof. Records simply close a loophole that they might try to exploit to get out of accepting liability. A vehicle with no service records at all can have an engine failure, and the warranty issues has to prove that a lack of service caused the failure. Legally. Of course getting to that point might still be costly fighting that battle, whether in time, money, and/or stress. They "win" alot of the warranty requests because the owners don't know any better, aren't prepared to fight them, or they are flat out lied to. Talking about all manufacturers here. Mazda is a bit better than most in my opinion, though they are certainly not exempt.
So directly back to your question, keeping all that in your mind, there is no intake or exhaust modification that will directly void your warranty legally. However, there are certainly dealers which can tell you that it will, tell you that it did, or even tell Mazda USA that you have an "illegal" or "not street approved" or "non Mazda" intake component, which could certainly cause them to deny you. And no, most people never hear those conversations. Conversely, there is another dealer I know about that ignores heavy modifications on an 8 that is routinely in for service and tells Mazda USA that the car is stock, because the dealer is intelligent and knows that the mods have nothing to do with the warranty work and introducing them into the conversation would make it harder on the honest customer.
The oil pressure mod is slowly gaining popularity as a reliability increase, however it would almost certainly cause a voided warranty if recognized, since it is a modification to the oil system, and lack of oil lubrication is a big cause of the failures around here, though there is basically zero chance that dealer would be able to detect it. Legally, it would a non-OEM change that the engine "wasn't designed for" and they would legally win that fight. Though practically, it just boosts the oil pressure up to where Mazda did OEM for the Series 2 engine. Rough call there if detected.
Given the history of failure with this engine (though smaller than people think it is), if it got to a legal fight, Mazda has very little chance at winning unless there was something changed about the engine itself (turbo, supercharger, oil, seals, rebuilt, etc...). But you don't want to get to that part. So in the end it comes down to 2 realistic options: 1) Build a relationship with your neighboring dealer, soaking the extra cost of time and money for routine maintenance so you develop that relationship and grease the gears if something warranty pops up, or 2), do everything yourself, and any warranty claims are more casual attempts where you are willing to take it on yourself if denied. I chose option 2. I figure I save more in money over time doing my own work than it would cost me to replace my engine myself, if it comes to that. Though I certainly will make an attempt at warranty coverage first.
Another thing to keep in mind is that dealer techs largely don't know what they are doing. A small few understand that the rotary is different, and very rare few actually know what they are doing and what to look for. 90%+ of Mazda techs don't even know that coils can fail during the life of the car, and there is a very real possibility that a lot of the early engine replacements simply needed new coils, not a new engine. (similar symptoms) With any issue, come here first. The collective knowledge here is far more than any tech at a dealer. (though there is alot of misinformation too, so you have to learn to sort through it and get backup clarification, etc...)
Case in point, my 8 not being back to normal after my cat failure. It got to the point I was having multiple problems that we couldn't figure out here, but it was all pointing towards engine failure (hard start, no start, misfires, low of power, etc...) I brought it a local dealer for a straight compression test, to rule that in or out (compression test is one of the few things you can't do yourself, unless you buy an electronic compression tester designed for a rotary. Standard ones won't give you all the readings you need). The tech I thought was dealing with the car talked to me like I was stupid for a while, claiming all sorts of crap about the cats don't fail and resetting sensors was a "special mazda way", etc... Finally they put it on a lift and start diagnosis. They give me the lowest compression readings I have ever seen on here, a clearly failing vacuum voltage reading, and then claim that there is no replacement needed. Clearly just lazy and don't want to do the work or the paperwork, but didn't charge me, instead charging it under the powertrain warranty. I brought it to another dealer, who then couldn't duplicate the first dealer's readings at all, in fact couldn't find anything wrong outside of a bit of rust on a plug wire and weak/failing starter. Nothing failing that could be covered under warranty, but he felt bad so he only charged me dealer cost on the labor of diagnosis, and nothing more (like 1/10th of what it would have been). Nothing wrong under warranty, nothing to submit, so he had to charge me. So the first dealer wasn't just lazy, they were incompetent as well.
So when you ask if something will or will not void a warranty, it will very rarely be a "yes, that will void it", but that doesn't mean you won't have a fight. Be prepared.
Warranty is a legal liability warranty like any other. (I went through a warranty fight with Toyota over my previously mentioned engine) That being said, you have to understand what a warranty claim actually is, and what it isn't.
When someone (a manufacturer, dealer, finance company, etc...) issues a warranty, they are accepting liability for that period of time/distance, accepting that any issues within the warranty coverage areas are either A) not supposed to happen or B) happen infrequently enough that they will be able to cover the cost of the repairs from the warranty charges from others that don't. Legally, it is only A), but practically, it is both.
When something breaks on your car, and it should be covered under warranty, your request for warranty service is legally a request for the warranty issuer (usually the manufacturer) to accept liability for damage/repairs as agreed.
If the warranty issuer accepts liabilty, which is usual, then they reimburse the shop for the costs of repairs. This is true even of dealers. Dealers charge the cost of repairs to Mazda USA, and get reimbursed. They make a lot of money on engine replacements. This is a critical point to keep in mind. The dealers can choose to not even file for warranty coverage (usually due to laziness), or they intentionally or accidentally misrepresent your car and modifications to Mazda USA during the discussion when Mazda is deciding on if they will accept the liability or not.
Moving closer to an answer to your question, sorry, there is some ground work I like to explain out, because I end up there anyway later on with more questions
If a warranty issuer decides they don't want to accept liability, then there is a fight ahead, at some level. Dealers are notorious for making this decision without even asking their parent company. Warranty requests are something of a mark against dealers I think. However, another critical point to recognize is that when a vehicle that is still within warranty period is denied warranty coverage, the warranty issuer has the burden of proof legally. They have to prove that a non-OEM part, a non-approved action, or a lack of required action caused the failure. If your only mod is a short shifter and your visor breaks, they can not possibly prove the link legally, because there isn't any. (Dealers have been known to try crazy stuff like that). If your transmission syncros fail though, well, there is more gray area. Legally, they have to prove the short shifter caused it, but there is enough gray that they might get it by.
Maintenance records is the big one. For all of history of warranties being issued, dealers have asked for maintenance records as proof of service before coverage. However, it isn't actually proof. Records simply close a loophole that they might try to exploit to get out of accepting liability. A vehicle with no service records at all can have an engine failure, and the warranty issues has to prove that a lack of service caused the failure. Legally. Of course getting to that point might still be costly fighting that battle, whether in time, money, and/or stress. They "win" alot of the warranty requests because the owners don't know any better, aren't prepared to fight them, or they are flat out lied to. Talking about all manufacturers here. Mazda is a bit better than most in my opinion, though they are certainly not exempt.
So directly back to your question, keeping all that in your mind, there is no intake or exhaust modification that will directly void your warranty legally. However, there are certainly dealers which can tell you that it will, tell you that it did, or even tell Mazda USA that you have an "illegal" or "not street approved" or "non Mazda" intake component, which could certainly cause them to deny you. And no, most people never hear those conversations. Conversely, there is another dealer I know about that ignores heavy modifications on an 8 that is routinely in for service and tells Mazda USA that the car is stock, because the dealer is intelligent and knows that the mods have nothing to do with the warranty work and introducing them into the conversation would make it harder on the honest customer.
The oil pressure mod is slowly gaining popularity as a reliability increase, however it would almost certainly cause a voided warranty if recognized, since it is a modification to the oil system, and lack of oil lubrication is a big cause of the failures around here, though there is basically zero chance that dealer would be able to detect it. Legally, it would a non-OEM change that the engine "wasn't designed for" and they would legally win that fight. Though practically, it just boosts the oil pressure up to where Mazda did OEM for the Series 2 engine. Rough call there if detected.
Given the history of failure with this engine (though smaller than people think it is), if it got to a legal fight, Mazda has very little chance at winning unless there was something changed about the engine itself (turbo, supercharger, oil, seals, rebuilt, etc...). But you don't want to get to that part. So in the end it comes down to 2 realistic options: 1) Build a relationship with your neighboring dealer, soaking the extra cost of time and money for routine maintenance so you develop that relationship and grease the gears if something warranty pops up, or 2), do everything yourself, and any warranty claims are more casual attempts where you are willing to take it on yourself if denied. I chose option 2. I figure I save more in money over time doing my own work than it would cost me to replace my engine myself, if it comes to that. Though I certainly will make an attempt at warranty coverage first.
Another thing to keep in mind is that dealer techs largely don't know what they are doing. A small few understand that the rotary is different, and very rare few actually know what they are doing and what to look for. 90%+ of Mazda techs don't even know that coils can fail during the life of the car, and there is a very real possibility that a lot of the early engine replacements simply needed new coils, not a new engine. (similar symptoms) With any issue, come here first. The collective knowledge here is far more than any tech at a dealer. (though there is alot of misinformation too, so you have to learn to sort through it and get backup clarification, etc...)
Case in point, my 8 not being back to normal after my cat failure. It got to the point I was having multiple problems that we couldn't figure out here, but it was all pointing towards engine failure (hard start, no start, misfires, low of power, etc...) I brought it a local dealer for a straight compression test, to rule that in or out (compression test is one of the few things you can't do yourself, unless you buy an electronic compression tester designed for a rotary. Standard ones won't give you all the readings you need). The tech I thought was dealing with the car talked to me like I was stupid for a while, claiming all sorts of crap about the cats don't fail and resetting sensors was a "special mazda way", etc... Finally they put it on a lift and start diagnosis. They give me the lowest compression readings I have ever seen on here, a clearly failing vacuum voltage reading, and then claim that there is no replacement needed. Clearly just lazy and don't want to do the work or the paperwork, but didn't charge me, instead charging it under the powertrain warranty. I brought it to another dealer, who then couldn't duplicate the first dealer's readings at all, in fact couldn't find anything wrong outside of a bit of rust on a plug wire and weak/failing starter. Nothing failing that could be covered under warranty, but he felt bad so he only charged me dealer cost on the labor of diagnosis, and nothing more (like 1/10th of what it would have been). Nothing wrong under warranty, nothing to submit, so he had to charge me. So the first dealer wasn't just lazy, they were incompetent as well.
So when you ask if something will or will not void a warranty, it will very rarely be a "yes, that will void it", but that doesn't mean you won't have a fight. Be prepared.
I just recently bought a 2004 rx8 touring back in february. I didn't know a lot of this at the time of purchase but luckily have a very patient boyfriend who explained everything he could about what I was getting into when I considered purchasing the car. Now the question I have is regarding the warranty. Just to make sure I understand my 2004 has a standard 8yr/100,000 mile warranty? I was wondering because in July I took my car to the dealership for maintenance and when I asked about the warranty I was told that I had nothing. Is he wrong? Am I wrong? What should I do? I'd like to know for sure whether my car has warranty or not because there is a chance that I might get some money back for some engine work.
09-15-2010 | 06:06 PM
#109
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 12
From: Indialantic, Florida
Diandra..............
1.) You are lucky I ran into your post as you buried it among a ton of others.
2.) You have an 8 year 100k mile warranty on the engine......specifically,
Rotary Engine Core
Rotary Housing and internal parts
Internal seals and gaskets
BUT.......you need to read the attached carefully.
Not everything is going to apply.
It would totally depend on what you had done and I would guess that it WOULD NOT be covered under the attached warranty as this usually only comes in to play when someone needs an entire new engine put in, and even then you must provide pretty good proof of oil receipts and sometimes maintenance records.
Even though you aren't the first owner, you are eligible for this warranty, so............technically he is wrong, you do have this warranty, but you need to understand that maintenance isn't going to apply.
There is a phone number you can call and ask, but I suggest you read the pdf file that I attached and understand it.
1.) You are lucky I ran into your post as you buried it among a ton of others.
2.) You have an 8 year 100k mile warranty on the engine......specifically,
Rotary Engine Core
Rotary Housing and internal parts
Internal seals and gaskets
BUT.......you need to read the attached carefully.
Not everything is going to apply.
It would totally depend on what you had done and I would guess that it WOULD NOT be covered under the attached warranty as this usually only comes in to play when someone needs an entire new engine put in, and even then you must provide pretty good proof of oil receipts and sometimes maintenance records.
Even though you aren't the first owner, you are eligible for this warranty, so............technically he is wrong, you do have this warranty, but you need to understand that maintenance isn't going to apply.
There is a phone number you can call and ask, but I suggest you read the pdf file that I attached and understand it.
09-15-2010 | 06:09 PM
#110
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 7,840
Likes: 12
From: Indialantic, Florida
I just recently bought a 2004 rx8 touring back in february. I didn't know a lot of this at the time of purchase but luckily have a very patient boyfriend who explained everything he could about what I was getting into when I considered purchasing the car. Now the question I have is regarding the warranty. Just to make sure I understand my 2004 has a standard 8yr/100,000 mile warranty? I was wondering because in July I took my car to the dealership for maintenance and when I asked about the warranty I was told that I had nothing. Is he wrong? Am I wrong? What should I do? I'd like to know for sure whether my car has warranty or not because there is a chance that I might get some money back for some engine work.
09-22-2010 | 05:14 PM
#112
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It has 130000 miles so its not under warranty anymore. I'd have to look at the paperwork again but I'm quite sure I had 0 compression on the test. Can anyone living in southern cali tell me the cheapest place to go about rebuilding/ replacing my engine?
09-27-2010 | 06:17 PM
#113
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Joined: Aug 2010
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From: Ottawa, Canada
Hi just have quick questions... i got my parts today (coils, wires, plugs) for 350 off of mazda trix then another 105 for shipping(live in canada) and i am going to change them tomorow along with a oil change and the DIY maf so i read the DIY for the MAF clean and i am curious do i spray down everything like the whole part or only the sensor wires? and on the DIY for the plugs it says u need to put the two wires with the colored tape where they were.. but my wires i purchased dont have colored tape so does it make a difference wich one goes where? Last question about the airbox i am not 100% sure if i should take the whole thing off or just the accordion and possible change the airfilter also?
Thanks for help
Thanks for help
09-27-2010 | 08:42 PM
#115
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HOWEVER, 0 compression, as in ZERO is not possible with a proper compression test. Even an engine without any seals at all will still register a compression higher than zero. A zero compression result usually means that either the engine wasn't turning over, or the compression tester wasn't hooked up correctly. If the engine wasn't turning over, then it should have been obvious before that. If the test wasn't done correctly, you wasted your money.
Get a second opinion. Post your actual number here, should be 6 numbers in PSI or BAR, along with a cranking speed.
Hi just have quick questions... i got my parts today (coils, wires, plugs) for 350 off of mazda trix then another 105 for shipping(live in canada) and i am going to change them tomorow along with a oil change and the DIY maf so i read the DIY for the MAF clean and i am curious do i spray down everything like the whole part or only the sensor wires? and on the DIY for the plugs it says u need to put the two wires with the colored tape where they were.. but my wires i purchased dont have colored tape so does it make a difference wich one goes where? Last question about the airbox i am not 100% sure if i should take the whole thing off or just the accordion and possible change the airfilter also?
Thanks for help
Thanks for help
2: The plug wires. The plug wires are all different sizes. The 100% foolproof way of replacing them is 1 at a time. Disconnect one wire from the plug, then from the coil pack up top, and pull it through. Measure it against the new wires, pick the matching length, reconnect in reverse order. Repeat for each of the 4.
Even though you are doing coils and plugs too, I would still recommend that you do the same thing. Do 1 at a time. Either 1 coil, then 1 plug, then 1 wire, repeat for each of the other 3 sets, or each plug, removing and then reconnecting the matching wire each time, then each coil, removing and reconnecting the matching wire each time, then each wire, removing and reconnecting 1 wire at a time.
Make sure you think about it to make sure you are getting stuff crossed up or backwards. Do the wires last, don't be connecting them and disconnecting new ones more than needed, as each connect and disconnect does weaken them slightly. Make your old wires take that strain.
3: You have to remove the air box and accordion to easily access the coils. Only way around it is if you have an aftermarket intake that doesn't block so much, but even then it's recommended.
09-28-2010 | 03:06 PM
#117
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loosen both circular clamps around each end of the accordion, then pop the clips at the front of the air box, push the top of the air box backwards towards the accordion, once you see the 2 pegs clear the holes against the front frame bar, apply upward angle while pushing backwards, and it will lift up. That isn't easy or less than irritating, can need alot of force to get the accordion to compress enough. At that point you can move the air box easily, though watch the hoses and wires. Don't make any of them get yanked.
09-28-2010 | 08:09 PM
#118
Surf Hard, Drive Hard
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Indialantic, Florida
2: The plug wires. The plug wires are all different sizes. The 100% foolproof way of replacing them is 1 at a time. Disconnect one wire from the plug, then from the coil pack up top, and pull it through. Measure it against the new wires, pick the matching length, reconnect in reverse order. Repeat for each of the 4.
Even though you are doing coils and plugs too, I would still recommend that you do the same thing. Do 1 at a time. Either 1 coil, then 1 plug, then 1 wire, repeat for each of the other 3 sets, or each plug, removing and then reconnecting the matching wire each time, then each coil, removing and reconnecting the matching wire each time, then each wire, removing and reconnecting 1 wire at a time.
Make sure you think about it to make sure you are getting stuff crossed up or backwards. Do the wires last, don't be connecting them and disconnecting new ones more than needed, as each connect and disconnect does weaken them slightly. Make your old wires take that strain.
SpeeD_TeaSe,
In case you do mess up!
09-28-2010 | 11:11 PM
#119
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Just wanted to say thanks. I have been reading for 2 days in the forum and tonight found this thread. Best one yet full of info. I used to autocross Corvettes so rotors are a little foriegn to me but I am learning. Sold the Vette went to grad school, started a family, career and all that crap. I just bought an '06 with 51,000 miles and relearned the joy of going around corners and through turns again. *silly grin from ear to ear* I also had the "OMG" experience (twice) of I am above 100 mph and did not even realize it.
On to my questions: At very low speeds, when just startng off the car gives a little shrudder. MAF cleaner or something else? Only mod to date is K & N oil filter. Thanks in advance.
On to my questions: At very low speeds, when just startng off the car gives a little shrudder. MAF cleaner or something else? Only mod to date is K & N oil filter. Thanks in advance.
09-29-2010 | 08:20 AM
#121
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If the ignition was replaced correctly at 30,000, then you are approaching the point when it should be replaced again anyway. So may want to consider swapping coils, plugs, and wires anyway, see if that resolves it.
Buy them from forum vendors here, they give the best prices, and helps keep them around the boards
~$280 for the entire set. Alternatively, the BHR ignition upgrade for $485 shipped (wires and coils, add $65 if you want them to throw plugs in as well) is a great solution, providing coils that last (rather than fail), stronger spark, more stable idle and revs.They are all easily changed by hand, and from your history, I'm guessing you are up to the simple task, and probably can do it in an hour or less.
10-15-2010 | 09:45 PM
#122
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From: Ottawa, Canada
so I changed my coils, plugs, wires and sprayed MAF and did a oil change and one day and it does make a difference, the RPMs dont really move and they are more stable at idle, although there is still a decent amount of vibrations wich i am not sure what it could be. Also when i start the car it does not start right away it takes maybe 5 ticks around before starting, wondering if this is normal or if my starter is maybe starting to get weak.. 2 wires that mzdatrix gave me were not the same size as the stock ones there a bit longer and thicker so they do not fit in the clip to hold them so i zip tied it but im still nervous that they rub a bit, is this bad or maybe anyone has a better suggestion? Thanks alot for taking the time 2 read really appreciated
10-15-2010 | 10:33 PM
#123
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None of mine fit in the stock clip, I don't even have them zip tied or anything. ~15,000 miles, no signs of rubbing, wear, stress, etc...
And yeah, longer crank times can easily be the starter. It could also be weak ignition, weak battery, or failing compression.
Given your other ignition issues, I'd guess it's an ignition issue first, but if you got that sorted out, I'd verify your battery (easy, and cheap to replace comparatively), and then to starter.
Of course, getting a compression test, even if for peace of mind, is never discouraged.
And yeah, longer crank times can easily be the starter. It could also be weak ignition, weak battery, or failing compression.
Given your other ignition issues, I'd guess it's an ignition issue first, but if you got that sorted out, I'd verify your battery (easy, and cheap to replace comparatively), and then to starter.
Of course, getting a compression test, even if for peace of mind, is never discouraged.
