Slintx

Soooo....cars been acting funny, took to my mechanic, he said besides the selenoid that it's fine. I took a look today and noticed one of the nuts under one of my coils is missing. How screwed am I? I've probably driven 1000 miles like this.
Also, I took my car to 2 different mechanics, 1 for coils, one for spark plugs. Which should I talk to about this?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Is there a reason you can't do it?
Plugs, coils, & wires are not hard to do with a little mechanical aptitude.
You can save a lot of money & know it's done right if you DIY.

Slintx

I just took a 2nd look. It's not just the nut, looks like the bolt that I twist the nut on to completely broke off.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

You probably need a new mounting plate,(not sure if that's the correct part description).
Whoever worked on your coils last probably broke it & hoped you wouldn't notice.
Hence my previous advice.

Slintx

I'm gonna see if I can get the guy who did my coils to fix it. He said it came with a warranty, if not I'll do it myself. But more importantly, would this be the reason I'm getting 9mpg? Only 1 bolt is broken

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

No, the bolt isn't reason you are getting 9mpg.

See the new owner's thread on gas mileage. It lists the parts that could be failing that would cause poor gas mileage. Start working through the list by researching each part, learn how to test it, and replace if needed. That are LOTS of reasons you could have the mileage that bad and there is probably more than 1 reason for it, so there isn't 1 easy answer for you. It's going to take some effort and some legwork on your behalf ... or a lot of money to pay someone else for their legwork and effort.

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

In addition to RIWWP's advice, if the guy honors his warranty, & has a lift, you may ask him if he could drop your converter & inspect it while it's there.
That's one of the usual suspects.
Have you had your codes scanned?
If you didn't know, lots of auto parts stores will scan it for free.
Good luck!

QuiQuik2003

Okay, checked the codes for my check engine light. They are: p0442 and u0155. My mechanic said that he is not sure what it can be. Anyone had similar problems before?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

P0442 - EVAP system leak detected (small leak)
Typically the gas-cap, but can be a couple other places too, although far rarer

U0115 is a communication error generated by his scan tool just not recognizing everything the RX-8 is transmitting. Nothing to worry about. Nearly every OBD2 tool out there that isn't Mazda produced will generate one U code or another.


So...just replace your gas cap. Order from Mazmart, finishlineperformance.com, or your local dealer.

gwilliams6

DTC # Condition Light DC Monitor SelfTest Memory
----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
P0030 - Front HO2S heater control circuit problem - ON - 2 - HO2S heater - C, O, R - Yes
P0031 - Front HO2S heater control circuit low - ON - 2 - HO2S heater - C, O, R - Yes
P0032 - Front HO2S heater control circuit high - ON - 2 - HO2S heater - C, O, R - Yes
P0037 - Rear HO2S heater control circuit low - ON - 2 - HO2S heater - C, O, R - Yes
P0038 - Rear HO2S heater control circuit high - ON - 2 - HO2S heater - C, O, R - Yes
P0076 - VDI solenoid valve control circuit low - OFF - 2 - Other - C, O, R - Yes
P0077 - VDI solenoid valve control circuit high - OFF - 2 - Other - C, O, R - Yes
P0101 - MAF sensor circuit range/performance problem - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P0102 - MAF sensor circuit low input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0103 - MAF sensor circuit high input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0107 - BARO sensor circuit low input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0108 - BARO sensor circuit high input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0111 - IAT sensor circuit range/performance problem - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P0112 - IAT sensor circuit low input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0113 - IAT sensor circuit high input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0117 - ECT sensor circuit low input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0118 - ECT sensor circuit high input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0122 - TP sensor No.1 circuit low input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0123 - TP sensor No.1 circuit high input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0125 - Insufficient coolant temperature for closed loop fuel control - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P0126 - Insufficient coolant temperature for stable operation - ON - 2 - Thermostat - C - Yes
P0130 - Front HO2S circuit problem - ON - 2 - HO2S - C, O, R - Yes
P0131 - Front HO2S circuit low voltage - ON - 2 - HO2S - C, O, R - Yes
P0132 - Front HO2S circuit high voltage - ON - 2 - HO2S - C, O, R - Yes
P0133 - Front HO2S circuit slow response - ON - 2 - HO2S - C - Yes
P0138 - Rear HO2S circuit high voltage - ON - 2 - HO2S - C, R - Yes
P0139 - Rear HO2S circuit slow response - ON - 2 - HO2S - C, R - Yes
P0171 - System too lean - ON - 2 - Fuel system - C, R - Yes
P0172 - System too rich - ON - 2 - Fuel system - C, R - Yes
P0222 - TP sensor No.2 circuit low input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0223 - TP sensor No.2 circuit high input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0300 - Random misfire detected - Flash/ON - 1/2 - Misfire - C - Yes
P0301 - Front rotor misfire detected - Flash/ON - 1/2 - Misfire - C - Yes
P0302 - Rear rotor misfire detected - Flash/ON - 1/2 - Misfire - C - Yes
P0327 - KS circuit low input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0328 - KS circuit high input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0335 - Eccentric shaft position sensor circuit problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C - Yes
P0336 - Eccentric shaft position sensor circuit range/performance problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C, R - Yes
P0410 - AIR system problem - ON - 2 - AIR system - C, R - Yes
P0420 - Catalyst system efficiency below threshold - ON - 2 - Catalyst - C - Yes
P0441 - EVAP system incorrect purge flow - ON - 2 - EVAP system - C, R - Yes
P0442 - EVAP system leak detected (small leak) - ON - 2 - EVAP system - C, R - Yes
P0443 - Purge solenoid valve circuit problem - ON - 2 - CCM - C, R - Yes
P0446 - EVAP system vent control circuit problem - ON - 2 - EVAP system - C, R - Yes
P0455 - EVAP system leak detected (large leak) - ON - 2 - EVAP system - C, R - Yes
P0456 - EVAP system leak detected (very small leak) - ON - 2 - EVAP system - C, R - Yes
P0461 - Fuel gauge sender unit circuit range/performance problem - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P0462 - Fuel gauge sender unit (main) circuit low input - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0463 - Fuel gauge sender unit (main) circuit high input - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0480 - Cooling fan No.1 control circuit problem - OFF - 2 - Other - C, O, R - Yes
P0481 - Cooling fan No.2 control circuit problem - OFF - 2 - Other - C, O, R - Yes
P0500 - VSS circuit problem - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P0505 - Idle air control system problem - OFF - - - R - No
P0506 - Idle air control system RPM lower than expected - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P0507 - Idle air control system RPM higher than expected - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P0562 - System voltage low (KAM) - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0564 - Cruise control switch input circuit problem - OFF - 1 - Other - C, O, R - Yes
P0571 - Brake switch input circuit problem - OFF - 1 - Other - C, O, R - Yes
P0601 - PCM memory check sum error - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0602 - PCM programming error - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0604 - PCM random access memory error - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0610 - PCM vehicle options error - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0638 - Throttle actuator control circuit range/performance problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C - Yes
P0661 - SSV solenoid valve control circuit low - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0662 - SSV solenoid valve control circuit high - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P0703 - Brake switch input circuit problem - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P0704 - CPP switch input circuit problem - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P0850 - Neutral switch input circuit problem - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P1260 - Immobilizer system problem - OFF - 1 - Other - C, O - No
P1686 - Metering oil pump control circuit low flow side problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C, R - Yes
P1687 - Metering oil pump control circuit high flow side problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C, R - Yes
P1688 - Metering oil pump control circuit initial check problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C, R - Yes
P2004 - APV stuck open - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2006 - APV motor control driver IC problem - ON - 2 - CCM - C - Yes
P2009 - APV motor control circuit low input - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2010 - APV motor control circuit high input - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2016 - APV position sensor circuit low input - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2017 - APV position sensor circuit high input - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2067 - Fuel gauge sender unit (sub) circuit low input - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2068 - Fuel gauge sender unit (sub) circuit high input - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2070 - SSV stuck open - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2096 - Target A/F feedback system too lean - ON - 2 - Fuel system - C, R - Yes
P2097 - Target A/F feedback system too rich - ON - 2 - Fuel system - C, R - Yes
P2102 - Throttle actuator power supply line circuit low input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2103 - Throttle actuator power supply line circuit high input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2106 - Throttle actuator control system-forced limited power - ON - 1 - CCM - C - Yes
P2107 - Throttle actuator control module processor error - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2108 - Throttle actuator control module performance error - ON - 1 - CCM - C - Yes
P2109 - TP sensor minimum stop range/performance problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C - Yes
P2112 - Throttle actuator control system range/performance problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C - Yes
P2119 - Throttle actuator control throttle body range/performance problem - ON - 2 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2122 - APP sensor No.1 circuit low input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2123 - APP sensor No.1 circuit high input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2127 - APP sensor No.2 circuit low input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2128 - APP sensor No.2 circuit high input - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2135 - TP sensor No.1/No.2 voltage correlation problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2136 - TP sensor No.1/No.3 voltage correlation problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2138 - APP sensor No.3 /No.4 voltage correlation problem - ON - 1 - CCM - C, O, R - Yes
P2195 - Front HO2S signal stuck lean - ON - 2 - HO2S - C, R - Yes
P2196 - Front HO2S signal stuck rich - ON - 2 - HO2S - C, R - Yes
P2257 - AIR pump relay control circuit low - ON - 2 - Air system - C, O, R - Yes
P2258 - AIR pump relay control circuit high - ON - 2 - Air system - C, O, R - Yes
P2259 - AIR solenoid valve control circuit low - ON - 2 - Air system - C, O, R - Yes
P2260 - AIR solenoid valve control circuit high - ON - 2 - Air system - C, O, R - Yes
P2270 - Rear HO2S signal stuck lean - ON - 2 - HO2S - C, R - Yes
P2271 - Rear HO2S signal stuck rich - ON - 2 - HO2S - C, R - Yes
P2401 - EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit low - ON - 2 - EVAP system - C, O, R - Yes
P2402 - EVAP system leak detection pump control circuit high - ON - 2 - EVAP system - C, O, R - Yes
P2404 - EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit range/performance problem - ON - 2 - EVAP system - C - Yes
P2405 - EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit low - ON - 2 - EVAP system - C, O, R - Yes
P2407 - EVAP system leak detection pump sense circuit intermittent/erratic problem - ON - 2 - EVAP system - C, O, R - Yes
P2502 - Charging system voltage problem - OFF - 1 - Other - C, R - Yes
P2503 - Charging system voltage low - OFF - 1 - Other - C, R - Yes
P2504 - Charging system voltage high - OFF - 1 - Other - C, R - Yes

__________________the cel code list from previous post by RIWWP

gwilliams6

You might still find a Pettit SC kit from these UK distributors. Or they might be all done for supply over there also. I personally have met a few Pettit SC RX8 owners in my NJ/DE/MD/PA RX8club area and most of these guys are real mechanics , and with great care have had reliable performance and good (not great) engine life. Check the SC threads here in the forum. The Renesis engine is already the highest-compression of any non FI rotaries Mazda has ever made, so adding an SC or Turbo puts great stress on an engine that was never designed for FI. Proper tuning and fuel/air management,ignition, cooling and a host of other issues must be addressed to keep the engine alive. For most RX8 owners, the huge costs and risks to the life of the engine just don't warrant the move to FI. But each owners is free to follow their heart and pocketbook on this. I have owned both stock (FD RX7) and Racing Beat specialty made FI rotaries (heavily modified first gen RX7) in the past . The rush of added power (up to over 400hp in my Racing Beat 13B engine, not a street-legal car) was great, but the costs and longevity of the engines was always a factor.

Pettit Racing UK | Supercharger for the Mazda RX8

surfnlow

hello all! I am a new rx8 owner and have a lot of experience working on piston engines. I know that rotaries are completely different but seems easier to work on/rebuild. That being said, I traded my motorcycle for an 04 rx8 with 170k and "compression issues". I am a little skeptical after reading tons of ts'ing with other members using the search feature here. Here are my symptoms and what I have done so far.

1. struggles to start, but cranks just fine
2. coils are brand new, nkg wires and new nkg plugs (they are the correct ones)
3. verified spark by pulling the plugs and grounding them to the block
all 4 spark (strong i might add)
4. I did have some oil in the intake, but cleaned it all out along with the throttle body just to be on the safe side.
5. I did notice that the trailing plug on the front rotor was wet and no carbon at all, plus the front leading was also wet and very little carbon. The first turn over after I pulled the plugs and put them back seemed to start faster.

Is it possible that I flooded it again?

6. I have pulled the cat and gutted it

I have not done the deflooding procedure with the washer fluid yet due to lack of time, but I am planning on it in the next few days. The car will start, but it takes a got 10-15 secs of cranking and the idle is very weak and sounds like a disel. there is some white smoke, but it smells like gas and is not sweet at all so I have ruled out coolant in the block. It feels like it is running on just the rear rotor. My question is, has anyone ever seen just one rotor flood and the other still run? If it is an Apex seal, I will be doing the rebuild myself, but I am trying to rule out everything else before i crack it open. Any ideas would be very helpful and thanks in advance.

surfnlow

just as a side note, it was not compression tested. The guy just assumed because that is what a friend told him.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Being unable to start is a key part of the definition of "flooding" if it starts, it is no longer flooded.

So you have hard starts basically.

The short answer would be to simply take it to a dealer to get compression tested.

Longer answers will involve a number of diagnosis steps, but I'm betting that in the end you are still going to need a compression test. I'd also bet that it's a coolant seal failure, not an apex seal failure. Apex or side seal failure are rather catastrophic, but the white smoke could easily be a fuel, oil, and coolant mix.

surfnlow

I am 40 miles away from the dealer so it is a real hard thing the take it to the dealer. I am going to attempt the washer fluid trick tomorrow and if that fails, I guess I am looking at pulling the motor. I was just wanting to try everything possible before having to pull it. Is there anything else I can try besides just simply taking it to the dealer? I am a DIY'er and have never had to rely on the dealer other than getting specialized parts. My latest project was rebuilding an AT for an 03 Acura TL type s so I am no stranger to having to work on unfamiliar things. I have the utmost confidence that I can get it done myself. Worst case, I will just get a new/reman'd motor. I am really looking forward to opening her up and getting this done myself. I just want to see if there are other things I can do before having to do it. Thanks again for the response!

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Why do you need to try the windshield washer fluid trick? You said: "The car will start, but it takes a got 10-15 secs of cranking", which tells me that you CAN get it started. The windshield washer fluid trick is only for when it's flooded and isn't starting at all.

My advice to bring it to the dealer is JUST for a compression test. Don't pay for any other diagnosis or any of their parts cost, but it's unlikely that you live anywhere near someone with their own rotary engine compression tester, and you can't get a proper compression test without one. If you can really confirm engine failure in another method (like coolant in the housing, coolant in the oil, combustion gases in the coolant, etc...) then a compression test isn't needed. But be wary of just diagnosing a failed engine improperly. It's happened plenty on here that someone thinks they have a dead engine when it is something far simpler to solve.

surfnlow

true I have seen that in my searches. I wanted to add that there is no loss of coolant at all and the "white smoke" has no smell of it either. That is why I was asking because it doesn't have any signs of a blown seal. The exhaust has a very rich gas small and it is just tinted white, so I figured it was dumping fuel and causing it to flood, but only on the front rotor. I know it sounds odd but without having the compression test done, this is what I have found. I have no way to get it to the dealer anytime soon with Christmas just a few days away so I figured I would do all I can. I am getting the flashing CEL and was going to rent an OBD2 scanner to pull the codes, just haven't gotten that far. With the motor being 170k miles, IMO it needs to be rebuilt anyway so I guess saving the money for the compression test will help me in getting the rebuild kit after I get it opened and see if there is any damage and verifying which kit I should get. I will keep up with it on here to let you know of my progress, but I can't make it to the dealer.

I am in NW FL about 20 miles out of Pensacola. I live right smack in between Ft. Walton Beach and Pensacola (20-30 miles either way)

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Flashing CEL is always a misfire. Lots of possible causes though. It might be valuable to run through that diagnosis before pulling the engine

surfnlow

ok, I will do some more searching and see if I can run some more diagnostics. Is there a link that you recommend?

ken-x8

This site is the best link for info on the RX-8. Get a scanner and see which specific codes you have. All of the codes are listed here...some even reposted a few posts up. If you need a shop manual, there are links to pdf downloads. And, as you've seen so far, there are some really good and knowledgable folks who'll help.

IMHO, if you want to rebuild an engine to solve a problem, as opposed to doing for fun, you need to do a compression test to see if you really have a mechanical problem. Any engine, not just rotaries.

Edit to add this:
When I had coil failure a couple of years ago, it was the two coils for the front rotor. It ran on the back rotor. Ran like ****, started hard, but it ran. Flashing CEL (misfire). New ignition stuff and it's been running like new for the past 20,000 miles.

Ken

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Search for 'suffering from misfire start here'

surfnlow

Thanks for being helpful and not just commenting out of spit. I know I am not the most educated with these motors but internal combustion is the same rather it is piston or rotary so I have a good place to start. Looking at the coils, they look to be brand new (still shinny as a matter of fact). I know that doesn't mean much but I had my wife turn the car over with them grounded to the block and they all had a real strong spark, so I am hesitant to think it is the coils, wires or plugs. I have not cleaned the MAF or ESS yet so I am going to do that tomorrow. I did do the 20 stomp to clear the ESS and it didn't make a difference, but I have not taken it off to clean it yet. I am going to take the plugs back out also and remove the fuel fuse to try and clear out the chambers to see if that helps. It seems to have started a lot faster last time I did that, but I pulled the wrong fuse last time and didn't realize it until after I had it back together (tried to crank it without the fuse and it cranked). I guess I have a little more work to do, but I am waiting for an email back at a local shop to see if they have the correct compression tester. Thanks again for the help!

surfnlow

Update: I took off the MAF plug and it started a lot faster and idle was higher. The little bulb is almost black so I am thinking new MAF. I still got the cel back though and it is still pretty rough and slow accel. Does that change anything?

BigCajun

iTrader: (1)

Try cleaning it with CRC MAF cleaner before buying a new one.
Also, you don't have to remove the ESS to clean it.

surfnlow

I have cleaned it with the CRC MAF cleaner but thr o-ring was split wheb I took it off so I will have to get a new one before trying it again.