samakijoe

I just took delivery on a 2006 Shinka, 34k miles, Copper Red, Spotless, like new.
Driven by a little old lady living in Tampa Fl. (really).. Been doing a lot of reading here on the site.
Much good info. A question I have is about the catalytic converter.
Is there a problem with too much oil in the premix.
I realize that the racer guys probably have no cat.

Another question.. Some of you are using 20-50,
good or bad compared to 5-30??

Now the part about the car that I'm going to get
lot of grief. It's an automatic.
I'm a long time Alfa Romeo owner/wrencher about 60 years.
So I have gone to the Dark Side, as the guys on the Alfa site
would say. Time to give my left foot/leg a rest.

As a side bar for the Mods, The spell check thingy does not work in the
"Title" area... It does in the "Message" area...

Loki

iTrader: (1)

You'll want to wind it out some, granny driving doesn't help these engines live long. There's a really good primer at rx8help.com, or the New and Potential Owners thread on this forum.

There's not a ton of data about premix. If it's a good JASO FD ashless premix, it should be negligible. In general the amounts injected are negligible, most of he cat wear is from fuel. But you'll want to keep your ignition in tip top shape to avoid problems.

Thicker oil in a hot climate like Tampa should be good.

samakijoe

I'm not crazy about putting oil from the engine sump into the
compression chamber even if you change the oil and filter often.
So why not just block the system that sends engine oil to the chamber
and just increase the pre-mix ??
Do some of racers do this?

Witch brings up the next question, that being, because you change the oil so often
do you change the filter each time??
The filter looks really small..

Which brings up the last question for today..
Is there another that's bigger but will still fit?

Yes I've done a lot of searching here but a good many of the sites
I am sent to are no longer on line . (really old )

Loki

iTrader: (1)

I can't speak for everyone but the common OMP modification is a Sohn adapter which lets you inject 2 stroke oil instead of oil from the pan. But there's no problem injecting pan oil in any case, modern oils are a lot less toxic to the cat than when the engine was designed and the injected volumes are miniscule. Series 2 cars have an unmodifiable oil system and they don't do particularly better or worse than S1 cars.

Define "change oil so often"? Every 3k miles for mineral oil like a normal car is fine. I run synthetic and change at 5-6k miles. Still original engine after 19 years, Used Oil Analyses come back solid. Just top it up as it's consumed if you're not running a Sohn.

Can't comment on what other filter might fit. Mazda did make a bigger filter for S2, as well as raised the oil pressure, but not sure if an S2 filter fits. Like I said, based on my UOA's, it's not a huge problem if the rest of the engine is running well.

Meat Head

Series 2 filter is intended for the higher oil pressure under which the engine operates. Not sure what happens with the pressure By-pass within the filter if you use a Series 2 filter on a series 1 engine. I’m pretty sure it will fit physically since the P.O. of my car went to one of those quicky oil change shops and they put the wrong filter on my car (series 1 filter). Defer to Loki’s knowledge here. I’m still learning the hard way.

delhi

A few years ago I was given half a dozen of Tokyo Roki oil filters for the S2. Been using them since. No problem. My OCI is short since it is a pleasure car. I'll switch back to original S1 oil filters eventually since they are cheaper.

Wyrelade

Yes, people block off OMP systems with a solid piece of metal and bolt it in place of the OMP.

The only issue with this is that CEL will be on forever. I heard there is a way to get it off tho but I have not yet investigated that since I havent planned taking off the omp for now.

samakijoe

OK here's an other question from a newbeeee. The fuel tank on the RX8 is a "saddle" style. (which is kind of weird if you think about it)
This means when you are fueling the car, the side of the tank nearest the filler port is filled before the other side of the tank is filled.
I would guess that the best way to do the "premix" is to first put the oil in and then the gas. What I'm wondering about is how the gas gets over the "hump"
and fills the other side.??. There shouldn't be any pump involved. So I would guess that once the side near the filler is full the additional fuel just goes over the "hump".
Now if you don't fill the area nearest half of the tank during filling, how does the fuel get equalized in both sides of of the tank?? Or does it bother?
HMMM, I think, that's one question........

Loki

iTrader: (1)

It doesn't equalize, the far side is filled last and drained first. It gets over the hump because the hump is lower than the max fill line. If you only fill the near side half way, you have 1/4 fuel. There is separate level sensor or left and right.

samakijoe

OK, Here's the scenario,.. I just installed a new fuel tank. Not easy but doable. I put in 6 gallons of gas because
the dog ate my charge card and the new one has not come yet and the wife doesn't want me to have a lot of money in my pockets..
Now there's 6 gallons in the drivers side. What will the fuel gauge say and will the car run? (I know that dash board fuel gauges are not to be believed.).

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Why wouldn't you believe the fuel gauge? Each side of the tank has a level sensor and what you see on the dash is the sum of both.

Yes the car will run if everything was reinstalled correctly.

samakijoe

I know all about what you said. But how did the fuel get to the passenger side??
Or did it?

As to believing the gas gauge, I would bet that 95% of drivers have a blood
pressure increase when they know that there might not be a gas station over the hill and that little red
light just came on the first time.

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Does it matter that it got to the other side? If one side reads 0 and the other side reads 6 gallons (which is half anyway so it should start spilling into the other side, but anywho). No matter how you slice it, it should measure the correct amount of fuel.

Can't speak for 95% of drivers but the light on most cars means you have 50-70 km left at normal driving speed. My RX8s fuel gauge has been pretty consistent for the last 12 years.

samakijoe

Next one: I've been reading all about the dreaded flooded situation.
I don't have a problem "yet" but I was thinking about how to avoid it in the future.
Years ago my dad would race the engine just before turning it off.
I never knew if this was an old time habit or if it did any good. As an 8 year old you just didn't ask. Your dad knew all about all things..
But would it help to raise the RPM to say 4K then shut the engine down? My thinking would be that the rotors would flush out any remaining unburned fuel. Does my thinking make sense or is it out in left field.

The phrase "out in left field" has an interesting history/ beginning.. Go to the URL below......
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Out_of_left_field

Loki

iTrader: (1)

Just turn it off as you do a normal car. No special tricks necessary despite what you might find on the internet. If the ignition, starter and battery are healthy, the car will not flood. The one thing to avoid is starting and stopping it within a few seconds in cold weather (like below freezing).. If you start it to move it around the driveway, let it run a minute to avoid flooding.

Seriously as long as the ignition, oil and electric components are well maintained, you can just use it like a normal car. The stuff you read online about rotaries is either out of date by decades or bandaids to cover legit disrepair.

samakijoe

One more of many more: When there is a picture (a Thumbnail) in a thread and
I click on it all I get is a blank black screen..