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I will see what to do. Maybe i will just trust my father who is a car mechanic, my engineering gut and look what works best and change it very often (every 5000 km as mentioned, with the filter changed as well)
I am steering towards Castrol 5w30 fully synthetic though to be honest, with a synthetic two stroke Castrol premix (when my Repsol one finishes)
In the end, in general even for conventional cars, the main difference between synthetic, non-synthetic and synthetic blend (semi-synthetic), apart from the hydraulic camshaft parts (which require less thick oil that can not be done without it being synthetic - and in rx8 we don't have camshafts of course...), to the best of my knowledge, the main difference is the kilometer stand of how much it lasts and has to be changed. With the synthetic having to be changed less frequently. So i get the point also of the regular change that we discussed.
I will not push it more because i get we might have a war :P But i can understand also the different choice of people. I use it in Greece which is in general dry and mid-high temperatures. I guess I could also use 10w40
Thanks. Synthetic Castrol for RX8, and not non-synthetic. I would use non-synthetic for RX7. At least that is what I meant. At least according to the mechanics i talked, you don't want to mess up with non-synthetic with such engines. Synthetic blend at least.
I looked for oil threads but didn't find any direct hit. I am learning this forum and i thought the best place is here where new RX8 drivers also get acquainted to older ones having some experience with their own RX8s
If you have a link for the oil thread i could use it to check. I didn't find so good hits with a first search
For the prices mentioned, I could find them in similar prices so the price doesn't matter to me at the moment.
Thanks for the answer.
Conventional is completely fine for the RX8. Here are some threads on this forum that can help with your research. Makes great bedtime reading.
Conventional is completely fine for the RX8. Here are some threads on this forum that can help with your research. Here are some good threads to start researching oil. Makes great bedtime reading.
Replaced my cooler with a Koyorad one. No leaks, temperature is okay, no problems with power.
On monday the car will receive the last recall parts:
-Oil lines
-gas tank heat shielding
- front plastic mudguards
- and the pcm software update, which they are trying to talk me out of it just so they don't have to do it. The original pcm is having a fault, but i need to have that checked first, then i can have them update it.
Took the ac cooler out, it is bent and banged up, probably from that undocumented crash. After they finish the recalls, i'll take care of the ac system.
Replaced my cooler with a Koyorad one. No leaks, temperature is okay, no problems with power.
On monday the car will receive the last recall parts:
-Oil lines
-gas tank heat shielding
- front plastic mudguards
- and the pcm software update, which they are trying to talk me out of it just so they don't have to do it. The original pcm is having a fault, but i need to have that checked first, then i can have them update it.
Took the ac cooler out, it is bent and banged up, probably from that undocumented crash. After they finish the recalls, i'll take care of the ac system.
1) What are these recall problems you mention?
- oil lines
- gas tank heat shielding
- front plastic mudguards
- pcm software update?
What is the problem with the pcm that you are having?
I also have a check engine from when i bought it, the guy i bought it though is a mechanic and he told me to ignore it because, they have hooked up a parallel pcm to change the mapping at will: for eco, normal and sport driving. Which i have also used successfully. The check engine fault points to pcm fault or malfunction. The car works fine though. I have seen around a "stage 0" fix for the ecu that supposedly deletes the check engine light for that matter, injects more oil or increases the flow and supposedly is a fix for the longevity and fuel economy of the car. Do you know anything about that?
The ones i listed. What is confusing you?
They are going to install oil lines, gas tank shielding and front plastic mudguards.
And the pcm requires a software update, which probably changes some small parts of the operating procedure.
Did you check the compression on your engine? Who knows how good or bad the compression is.
If you are referring to the code: P0610 PCM vehicle options error ON 1 CCM ´ (See DTC P0610 )
It's the same code my original PCM gave me. My buddy recommended to just swap PCMs.
Buuut there is a chance a specialist for fixing these pcm can open it up and fix the problem if it comes down to a broken solder joint.
I never heard of this "stage 0" fix. Maybe someone here did. I do not know much about rotaries.
Best way to learn is to search on this forum. There are maany pointers for beginners.
The ones i listed. What is confusing you?
They are going to install oil lines, gas tank shielding and front plastic mudguards.
And the pcm requires a software update, which probably changes some small parts of the operating procedure.
Did you check the compression on your engine? Who knows how good or bad the compression is.
If you are referring to the code: P0610 PCM vehicle options error ON 1 CCM ´ (See DTC P0610 )
It's the same code my original PCM gave me. My buddy recommended to just swap PCMs.
Buuut there is a chance a specialist for fixing these pcm can open it up and fix the problem if it comes down to a broken solder joint.
I never heard of this "stage 0" fix. Maybe someone here did. I do not know much about rotaries.
Best way to learn is to search on this forum. There are maany pointers for beginners.
They are not confusing, just the normal recalls are not on these parts.
they are for the front suspension system (wishbones and probably mounts)
the fuel pump
the airbags
etc.
never heard about recall for oil lines and the rest that you mentioned. At least from the official mazda.
I am new to the forum and having my personal rx8 but not exactly beginner.
However, I am willing to discuss and learn more and I am excited with the process.
So you will find me doing this quite a lot
Why you mention the compression? I have had the compression (above 7) tested before I bought it. It was a very good compression and the car holds up cold and warm, starts fine and quite fast actually. I have never heard getting pcm error codes because of the compression. Now I am thinking to change the ignition at some point but I just bought it and it has been thoroughly tested and used by the guy that had it So I trust also.
It is particularly great on the road also
Yes the code: P0610 PCM vehicle options error ON 1 CCM ´ (See DTC P0610 ) => actually probably means faulty pcm...
I think it is the same for me. But i have a parallel ecu connected as i said that changes the mapping (the original mechanic had, who was not a beginner in rotaries, and assured me it is fine. we have still kept in contact) during runtime of the engine. I am sure that if you might add some cables to try and alter even the mapping as this program is doing, you might change the resistance of the cables and you are actively altering and reading the ecu mapping, then this might also give the p0610. That is why i am not sure i should swap a pcm. But as you say might be a joint you need to solder etc. I wouldn't trust anyone though with it. The car drives great and the economy of the fuel seemed great. Actually my uncle had a new RX8 and the fuel economy was far worse on his when he was using it with my father. Even when it was new. So i am not so sure apart from the parallel ecu what else could be causing this.
I see, my bad.
Yes, my rx8 buddy was puzzled as well about these recalls. Tomorrow i will ask about this, although i can already see they will tell me nothing because they don't know.
Right, the car is now at the Dealer once more. I have a receipt with all the parts that will be installed:
Now the part numbers are there, but the names in front are strange. I will translate and explain:
1. F1Y14276X "Protective sheet metal" (actual part is a foam like heat shielding, i think this sits above the gas tank, bellow the rear seats.
2. F1Y15613Z "Cover" ( ˇˇˇˇ)
3. F1Y15613Z "Cover" (now google search does show the plastic mudguards, but i cannot tell if this includes both pieces on each side, the plastic that sits behind the oil coolers is gone, that is what i need. Not sure that is what will be changed or not)
4. N3Y214S70 "Repair set B1" (ˇˇˇˇ)
5. N3Y614S70 "Repair set A1" (These are oil lines, but again, there's no way to see what else goes into the car)
And how much would this cost me if i was to pay for it?
Over 900€ or a 1000$. Luckily it's a recall.
If anyone knows about these recalls, do tell. My rx8 buddy is well known into rx8 and has done the known recalls before. He never heard about these.
Could this be even more proof that the car was initially sold in Croatia or is it special?
hey I’m looking into buying an rx8 I’ve done some research and I have found two sellers and I need help deciding which is The better buy. If anyone could help that would be great
It's considered rude to hijack an active thread.
If you can't start your own thread try to find a related one that doesn't have recent posts.
Right, the car is now at the Dealer once more. I have a receipt with all the parts that will be installed:
Now the part numbers are there, but the names in front are strange. I will translate and explain:
1. F1Y14276X "Protective sheet metal" (actual part is a foam like heat shielding, i think this sits above the gas tank, bellow the rear seats.
2. F1Y15613Z "Cover" ( ˇˇˇˇ)
3. F1Y15613Z "Cover" (now google search does show the plastic mudguards, but i cannot tell if this includes both pieces on each side, the plastic that sits behind the oil coolers is gone, that is what i need. Not sure that is what will be changed or not)
4. N3Y214S70 "Repair set B1" (ˇˇˇˇ)
5. N3Y614S70 "Repair set A1" (These are oil lines, but again, there's no way to see what else goes into the car)
And how much would this cost me if i was to pay for it?
Over 900€ or a 1000$. Luckily it's a recall.
If anyone knows about these recalls, do tell. My rx8 buddy is well known into rx8 and has done the known recalls before. He never heard about these.
Could this be even more proof that the car was initially sold in Croatia or is it special?
The oil line recall is a real thing in Canada, perhaps other countries with salt on roads. It's just the oil lines.
The protective sheet metal over the fuel tank sounds like the fuel tank safety recall that is world-wide, I think.
If you're missing the plastic engine undertray and wheel well plastic and can see ground from the radiator, you really need those or the car risks overheating at speed. There is no good reason for those to not be there.
I am already in plan to fix the undertray.
My rx8 buddy bought himself an aluminium undertray,
so i will simply copy the panel. It's just a metal panel with a shape and few holes. nothing fancy.
After i fix the AC system, i will install some plastics or metal sheets to redirect airflow into the cooler.
Finally i managed to buy a used AC condenser for 30€. Found a reliable shop with good reputation for fixing AC in cars.
True to their original repair offer, the price was estimated at around 165€ for repairs, installation, work hours, leak testings and
gas refill. I gave them the car on 20th of February, yesterday. The guy sad it will take two days. The car was finished in less than 4 hours.
Thankfully now the car can be driveable during summer.
Next items to fix are:
- Engine bay undertray and air ducts for the engine cooler
- Solenoids
- Gear switch (car losing main power when in reverse)
- Change trans. and diff. oil
Once these issues are resolved, the car will be OFFICIALLY FINALLY repaired and fully ready for hard driving in warm weather.
(Adriatic sea, here i come!)
After that, there's small stuff i want to do:
- Replace all light bulbs outside and inside the car with LED (possibly even change the Xenon bulbs with LED[i know it's very fiddly to mess with the Xenon housings, but i think it could be done])
- Refurbish the leather interior, find rubber floor mats.
- repair the damaged body and panel dents, rust spots, etc.
I did have it compression tested before. But it was done poorly, so i will do it again for sure.
I forgot to add a few things:
- remove the mushroom style filter/ install original air filter
- check the cabin filters/ clean or replace if necessary
- reinstall the Energizer battery
- remove the sunroof to clean it and clean the sunroof hole from dirt
- replace the damaged engine mounts (suggestions? install original or other better mounts?)
- fix the annoying sunglasses roof compartment rattle noise
I did have it compression tested before. But it was done poorly, so i will do it again for sure.
I forgot to add a few things:
- remove the mushroom style filter/ install original air filter
- check the cabin filters/ clean or replace if necessary
- reinstall the Energizer battery
- remove the sunroof to clean it and clean the sunroof hole from dirt
- replace the damaged engine mounts (suggestions? install original or other better mounts?)
- fix the annoying sunglasses roof compartment rattle noise
agree with most of your suggestions except:
1. Use Mazda OEM engine mounts. This is extremely important. If you don’t believe me, please ask me how I know.
2. You just need to use silicone to stop the rattle. My Porsche Cayenne had a really bad rattling noise but I silenced areas where it was rattling and now it’s quiet. Only rule to this is you can’t silicone anything that may need to be removed in the future otherwise you are setting up a huge future pain in the ***.
3. Get the compression test done as soon as possible. As another forum member said: “I treat an RX8 without a compression test the same as if it didn’t have an engine at all”.
Love your updates and dedication to your RX8. Its an amazing car.
Last edited by CaymanRotary; 02-22-2020 at 02:16 AM.
On the subject of motor mounts, it depends on your goals. BHR mounts will firm up the driveline and prevent the shifter from swaying under cornering, but at the cost of increased cabin noise and vibration, even with the softest inserts. Can't speak for other makes, but I'm sure the effects are similar.
If you're racing, firmer mounts make sense. If you're not stay with OEM.
My driving is more smooth and swift, then rapid and aggressive, so i agree OEM mounts will do.
Will add silicone, thx
I had a buddy, who has gone though several used engines (drives them like a maniac), and he believes the engine is still okay.
He did mention the power loss over 5K, because of the solenoid. Compression test will come soon. It's not easy to do it here in Croatia.
If i did not have my friend who bought the tester, i wouldn't be able to test without buying one myself
Thx, i would love to keep this car forever, it is my first car i ever bought and i love it. Now with my paygrade being around 700€ at this point in life,
having a sport car with no garage sucks. Not to mention that fixing the exterior wouldn't make sense since without a garage.
But if luck finds me, and my effort takes me somewhere in career, with enough finance i would get a garage and completely restore the rx8.
And if i get really lucky, add another rotor xD
UPDATE 8: Galvanized Steel undertray & fixing the solenoids.
Hello everyone. I hope you are all well and healthy during this global epidemic.
Yesterday i was suppose to work on my car, but unfortunately the Corona Virus precautions are now forced by our government.
So all activities are thus far cancelled. Same goes for my friend who was going to help me with the car.
He has a family and children, so he does not want to risk it. I agreed of course.
As for the car, here are the following things still needed to be done:
1. I had a friend make me a Galvanized Steel undertray, the shape was copied from an aluminium version that my friend had. (also put back other plastic pieces under the body
2. The solenoids will be checked and cleaned or replaced.
3. The transmission and differential oils will be changed. No car history so who knows when it was changed.
4. Check the reverse light switch and why is it sometimes loosing headlight electrical power when in reverse.
Hello everyone, i hope you are all well during the pandemic.
Today i went to a shop to fix the following:
1.
My right xenon bulb started to fade into purple and sometimes not even lighting up.
Changed both Xenon bulbs, keeping the left good one as spare.
2.
Drained the differential and transmission oils, refilled them with Motul Gear 300 LS 75W90.
2 liters for trans, 1 liter for diff.
3.
Inspecting the solenoid valves:
I only had one solenoid available to replace. I will replace all of them in the future. After i replaced the solenoid,
when starting the car, the engine warning light turned of by itself (we did take of the car battery) After i was driving,
the engine light returned, Code P0661, which i had before. There is a possibility that the wiring is bad, and that the solenoid
we replaced could have been fried now as well, but the guys at the shop don't have time or will for wire searching, and i have no money to pay them.
We also checked the Intake manifold and the top of the engine, nothing broken or leaking, just greasy:
4.
Checked the Reverse lights not working and loosing main electrical power in reverse.
I do not have the reverse switch and i couldn't find to buy one, so i insisted we check the wiring, who knows maybe there is a short somewhere.
Would you look at that, exposed wiring on top of the transmission. We isolated the wires, connected them,
turned the car on, into reverse and nope, reverse lights still don't work, tested with multimeter, no power to the bulbs.
So i need a new reverse gear switch. College of mine said he has one, but to get it we have to go to another town, which
we can't travel to because we are on lockdown.
5.
Then we checked the brakes, all good. Checked the fuses in the engine bay and the interior, all good.
But then, surprise, the water cooling line at the water pump started to leak.
This was a noticeable problem before, but it only started to leak now. The rubber lines are ok,
but the metal pipe is corroded. We sanded it down by hand slightly just so we can prevent leaking for now.
But it is something i will need to replace in the future.
As for what is left to do:
- Check engine compression again, properly this time
- fix the reverse lights and power
- fix the solenoids...still
- replace the broken undertray, fix the front bumper to support the metal undertray
- Fix/replace water pump
- solder the hand mended power steering wires (driven like that for months, i need to solder them properly)
P0661 is definitely the solenoid. You could try swapping a known good solenoid in the SSV slot and reinstall and see if the code goes away or activates another code. You can also test your solenoids to make sure they work. When they receive power you should hear it click. The AIR solenoid isnt as important as the VDI and SSV solenoids. Better to replace all 3 to be honest and not worry about it.
Hello all.
It is a sad day but i expected this to happen, just not so soon.
Hot start issues have arrived on my RX8. And therefore i am selling it.
Anyone interested, the car is located in Europe, Croatia, Zagreb city.
4.5 bars on front and rear rotor. Cold start fine, hot start barely if lucky.
Here is the link to the website sale: https://www.njuskalo.hr/auti/mazda-r...oglas-31790557
For buyers outside Croatia:
Any questions you can email me at brkljivan@gmail.com.
Please do not message me on this forum if you are interested, email me instead.
CR is right - if you love the car - a new re-manufactured Mazda engine is a great choice. I have a 2010 GT and I keep coming back to wanting to keep the car for the long-term. I just drove a WRX this weekend (and a friend drove my RX-8) and we both liked the driving character of the RX-8. He didn't like the "looks" or the interior. A great driving car is a great car.
01-10-2020 | 07:52 AM
I will keep it in mind. Reading the oil threads:
