New to the RX8 Scene
#26
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The most common problem source when there are steering issues is the steering connector, namely being dirty. Don't need to disassemble the connectors though. Remove the intake air box, then the bottom tray of the air box, and the connectors are right below that on the cross brace, right above the fans.
A description of the issue would help determine if that is actually your problem or not.
A description of the issue would help determine if that is actually your problem or not.
#28
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That doesn't sound like a steering problem?
Disconnect the battery, both connectors, clean the posts and clamps. Dash, cluster, and random electrical issues are almost always from corrosion on the battery terminals.
Disconnect the battery, both connectors, clean the posts and clamps. Dash, cluster, and random electrical issues are almost always from corrosion on the battery terminals.
#29
Just the controls on steering wheel are the issue. As a side note, the control area for the navigation does not work; however, I do not have the latest disc to try it out.
The terminals are clean; however, it is the OEM battery which I plan to replace next week with a Optima Yellow Top if it will fit.
The terminals are clean; however, it is the OEM battery which I plan to replace next week with a Optima Yellow Top if it will fit.
#36
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So I'm confused. I read through this thread don't recall anyone mentioning getting an actual compression test. Did I miss it? Have you had one done? If your friend is a pro drifter and familiar with the RX-8 I'm surprised he wouldn't recommend it since there are a myriad of things that can seem very much like a compression loss but actually be something entirely different.
The fact you may have been running 87 does not bode well in your favor, but did the actually do the test and if so what were the results?
Last edited by bladeiai; 08-15-2013 at 12:14 PM.
#38
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FYI, the dealer won't be able to tell you anything about the ignition. The official Mazda ignition coil test will show a coil as passing when it's causing misfires. At least if it fails that test, you can be sure that it is actually dead
Also, be wary of getting charged for ignition. $800 or more is what you can typically expect for dealer prices to replace everything, vs $190-220 is what you can expect replacing it yourself, and it's pretty easy.
Also, be wary of getting charged for ignition. $800 or more is what you can typically expect for dealer prices to replace everything, vs $190-220 is what you can expect replacing it yourself, and it's pretty easy.
#42
Due to the heat under the hood, how long would it take to 'cook' a coil? I know the prolonged exposure to high temps it drastically reduces the life of the electronic component. I am guessing that is why it is recommended that you change the coils every 30k miles.
#43
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But there's no point in cluttering things with excess information.
Ken