No Spark after rebuild PCM question
#26
Installed the upgraded starter yesterday and that resolved the spark issue. I am now getting consistent spark on both leading plugs, but wasn't quite enough to get it started. Did the pull start today and fired right up but wouldn't idle, had to keep the revs over 2500 to keep it running. Sounded pretty smooth overall, so that was encouraging, but was unable to get it restarted once it died.
First thing I'll do is replace the fuel. What's in the tank is over a year old now. I'll also run a compression test (conventional tester) and see what that tells me and go from there.
What's the best way to empty the gas tank?
First thing I'll do is replace the fuel. What's in the tank is over a year old now. I'll also run a compression test (conventional tester) and see what that tells me and go from there.
What's the best way to empty the gas tank?
#27
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
I would open up the inspection hatch on the drivers side and carefully remove the push on connector for the fuel line. I would then use a piece of hose that is 5/16 ID and carefully push it on the nipple from the pump assembly and put it in a fuel jug. Then jump the fuel pump connector in the under hood fuse box and that will turn on the pump and pump put the fuel...
One thing to watch is that if the fuel is really old and crappy it is likely the fuel filter is plugged... and it is an part of the pump assembly, so you might need to swap out the pump assembly at somepoint
One thing to watch is that if the fuel is really old and crappy it is likely the fuel filter is plugged... and it is an part of the pump assembly, so you might need to swap out the pump assembly at somepoint
#29
Registered
Also (some would agree and some wont) a may not idle or start with the key right away. Mine took a while to idle on its own. Some have held the rpm at 2500 for 20/30 mins before it idled. The point is to get all the seals seated and wore down to fit against the housing creating better compression.
#30
Modulated Moderator
iTrader: (3)
That would work as well.... it's kinda buried though so that's why I used do the one on the pump. Not an issue now ... I just take off the new return line at the firewall and add the line I made to go to the fuel can. That's the one issue with e85.. don't want to leave it on the system any longer than necessary and drain it and pickle it with 94
#31
I think I'll do the one at the firewall, just seems a bit more straightforward. Once I add new fuel I can run the pump for a minute to mix the small remaining amount w/ the new stuff. And thx Red Line, good point about the seals seating, definitely worth 30 mins of my life Mostly new irons and resurfaced housings. Then I'll do the low tech compression test. I'm gathering the parts for the DIY compression tester posted by TwistedRotors, seems like a nice little technoweenie project.
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